Adding IEC C14 connector?

zingo
zingo Posts: 11,258
edited May 2008 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
My Outlaw 7100 is great, except it does not have a detachable power cable, just a wussy, little two prong jobbie. I was thinking of installing a IEC C14 connector into it and adding a ground to the chassis to support 3-prong. Then I would be able to detach the cable if I wanted, or upgrade it down the road (or not if I'm being realistic:p). Has anyone ever attempted this, or think of why it could be a bad idea? PE has them for $1.75, so it seemed like a cheap upgrade if it's possible.
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Post edited by zingo on
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Comments

  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2008
    The only problem is that depending on your systems grounding, you might create a ground loop by adding the chassis ground.If it does then just disconnect it.Otherwise as long as you keep the neutral and hots in their correct places on the IEC plug you it should be fine.
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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited April 2008
    Hmmm... I'll crack open the case and see what the internal wiring looks like and see if the project looks do-able. I'll see if I can find some schematics too and see if grounding would cause a problem. It's weird to me that an amp like that went with a 2-prong design, and non-detachable to boot.
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited April 2008
    See if the center tap of the transformer is connected to the case. If yes, don't ground it.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited April 2008
    Cool thanks. I'll check that out.
  • Tomasito
    Tomasito Posts: 142
    edited April 2008
    Hello Zingo,

    I've also been planning of modifying my VSX94TXH. It too has only a two prong (undetachable power cable) plug.

    Let us know if the transformer is grounded to the case.
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2008
    You may find that the circuit ground is connected to the chassis with screws via ground tabs on the circuit board.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited April 2008
    You'll also need to check if there is space/clearance inside the case to fit an IEC. BTW, Furutech makes the best ones, which run about $11.00.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

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  • Tomasito
    Tomasito Posts: 142
    edited April 2008
    can you post the web link to the furutech IEC connector?
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited April 2008
    They are available from any number of suppliers. Here's but one.

    http://www.soniccraft.com/products/connections/ac/socket/iec/furutech_inlet.htm
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited April 2008
    Thanks for that link. It looks like a solid piece and Furutech looks like they have some cool stuff. I haven't had the chance to crack open my Outlaw yet since I have been trying to figure out its trigger, and if I had to send it back because of that reason, I feel they would frown upon some "upgrades".
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited April 2008
    zingo wrote: »
    ... and if I had to send it back because of that reason, I feel they would frown upon some "upgrades".
    Yes if it happens to still be under warranty, doing any mods will most likely void it.
    Testing
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  • Tomasito
    Tomasito Posts: 142
    edited April 2008
    Hello Zingo,
    any update on your IEC upgrade project?
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited April 2008
    I just upgraded my tube amp with an IEC connector and it went great. However, that one has a wood case, and of course my Outlaw has a metal one. Right now, I'm trying to decide how I would cut a 1" x 3/4" hole in the metal with a cordless drill. If I figure that out, I'll be moving ahead.

    (And thanks for the interest :))
  • Libertyc
    Libertyc Posts: 915
    edited April 2008
    I would use a Dremel type grinder with a small drill bit to cut the hole, and use a fine stone bit to finish it.
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited April 2008
    zingo wrote: »
    I just upgraded my tube amp with an IEC connector and it went great. However, that one has a wood case, and of course my Outlaw has a metal one. Right now, I'm trying to decide how I would cut a 1" x 3/4" hole in the metal with a cordless drill. If I figure that out, I'll be moving ahead.

    (And thanks for the interest :))

    Buy a nibbler.

    It cuts out a sliver of the metal very cleanly and only requires one drilled hole to get started. You could drill 4 holes and nibble out the perimeter. Great tool for working metal cutouts.
  • Tomasito
    Tomasito Posts: 142
    edited April 2008
    Shinace,
    Can you post a link where I can purchase a good nibbler on line?
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,780
    edited April 2008
    Tomasito wrote: »
    Shinace,
    Can you post a link where I can purchase a good nibbler on line?

    Site says "web only", but I bought mine in the local RS store:

    http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2289712&cp=&sr=1&origkw=nibbler&kw=nibbler&parentPage=search
  • Tomasito
    Tomasito Posts: 142
    edited April 2008
    WilliamM2... thanks
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited April 2008
    Sorry I didn't see this earlier, but yeah, that's the nibbler. It's slow work, but always comes out clean.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2008
    Partsexpress has one too for $9.75: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=360-022
    I might have to try it out...
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2008
    I just pulled the trigger and bought a nibbler, IEC jack, and another power cord, so the mod on my Outlaw is moving ahead full force.
  • Tomasito
    Tomasito Posts: 142
    edited May 2008
    Zingo, any update?
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2008
    I just got the parts in the mail, so I will be working on it this week! Pictures will accompany the completed review. Thanks for the interest.
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2008
    Stupid Outlaw Audio and their fantastic American made build quality. The sheet metal on the amp is too thick for my nibbler. Hmmm....
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited May 2008
    Some nibblers have interchangeable dies...a long shot, but...
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2008
    Ah thats a good idea, but I got a cheaper nibbler. I think I would need a pneumatic version anyway with the sheet metal as thick as it is.
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited May 2008
    Daaamn, got calipers?

    Is the sheet metal only thick on the front and back plates?
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited May 2008
    On my GFA-555 I wired the power cord directly. I didn't feel the need for 2 extra connectors. The connectors are nice if you want to swap cables, but I don't feel that need and just bought a cable that was a substantial upgrade to the puny 16/2 lamp cord that was on there. Just wanted to list another option for people reading the thread. Sorry for the slight derail Jake. Good luck with your cuts. I know you do good work.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited May 2008
    That a great idea Ben! I'm getting a 12' power cord at a great discount because of an ordering error on their part. 12' is a little to long for me, so I'll look at chopping it up and hard-wiring it into the amp. The pre-cut hole might actually work perfect with the lamp-cord grommet taken out.

    ShinAce, it's not that the metal is that thick, they just double it back on the sides for strength.
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited May 2008
    I ended up putting a metal ferrite choke on it, and soldered the connectors. You don't want to take any chances of having a hot wire busting loose inside your components. After being an electrician for years, and doing plenty of other work with connectors I have learned the fewer connectors the better. Extremely rare is it that a wire fails before any connections.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben