CSi3 Crossover broken [Large pic]

a5ehren
a5ehren Posts: 23
edited March 2008 in Troubleshooting
Got a replacement tweeter for my CSi3 (thanks Polk for taking it without my receipt). Turns out the actual problem is with the crossover though. It looks like that tall white thing (pretty sure it's a resistor) got shorted out and spilled its guts onto the board. The capacitor appears to be intact, so that's good.

What I need here is for someone to tell me exactly what that part is so I can replace it myself or convince Polk to take another warranty return with no proof of purchase ;).

Link to pics
Post edited by a5ehren on

Comments

  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited March 2008
    Looks like a 5W 2ohm resistor. Guts? It's filled with sand, at least I thought they were.

    Where are those crossover schematics again?

    Doro, I can never find it when I want it. Damn you!
  • a5ehren
    a5ehren Posts: 23
    edited March 2008
    ShinAce wrote: »
    Looks like a 5W 2ohm resistor. Guts? It's filled with sand, at least I thought they were.

    Where are those crossover schematics again?

    Doro, I can never find it when I want it. Damn you!

    That's what I thought, but I've never seen a resistor with that form factor.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited March 2008
    I don't see a PDF for it in the schematic thread.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited March 2008
    a5ehren wrote: »
    Got a replacement tweeter for my CSi3 (thanks Polk for taking it without my receipt). Turns out the actual problem is with the crossover though. It looks like that tall white thing (pretty sure it's a resistor) got shorted out and spilled its guts onto the board. The capacitor appears to be intact, so that's good.

    What I need here is for someone to tell me exactly what that part is so I can replace it myself or convince Polk to take another warranty return with no proof of purchase ;).

    Link to pics

    Why not return the tweeter and request a xover? Or replace the part.....
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • a5ehren
    a5ehren Posts: 23
    edited March 2008
    dorokusai wrote: »
    Why not return the tweeter and request a xover? Or replace the part.....

    I sent in my old tweeter since I thought it was broken. I don't want to just replace the xover because I don't really have the money to buy a replacement right now - I can pretty much only do a free exchange/return or a cheap DIY part replacement.
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited March 2008
    dorokusai wrote: »
    ...return the tweeter and request a xover?

    ding!
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited March 2008
    a5ehren wrote: »
    I sent in my old tweeter since I thought it was broken. I don't want to just replace the xover because I don't really have the money to buy a replacement right now - I can pretty much only do a free exchange/return or a cheap DIY part replacement.

    Oh ok....I'll look for the schematics.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • jcaut
    jcaut Posts: 1,849
    edited March 2008
    The resistor didn't spill anything: It just got hot enough to burn some of the glue holding it down to the board, and it looks to have melted the solder joints. The resistor itself may not be bad (though it very well could be toast)- You might be able to just reheat/solder the connections. It's hard to tell from the pics, but it sure looks like that resistor is across the postive and negative inputs. That's strange. If that's the case, it doesn't surprise me that it got hot. But then I'm not sure how it would cause the tweeter to not work.. It'd be interesting to see the schematic.
  • a5ehren
    a5ehren Posts: 23
    edited March 2008
    I'm trying to figure out the schematic now from looking at the board - when I come up with something, I'll post it here (yay EE degree :P).
  • a5ehren
    a5ehren Posts: 23
    edited March 2008
    Link to (guess) schematic

    The inductor values are just the defaults for orcad - no idea what they really are. Since this was made late at night from just looking at the board, I'm sure there's an error in it somewhere, but it seems correct enough at the moment.
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited March 2008
    I'm 99% sure it's the 5 watt 2 ohm resistor(R1). Make sure the other one says 5W 7(omega).

    Something like:
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=015-2

    or even better:
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?Partnumber=016-2

    p.s. the schematic doesn't show the components properly. C3 would be in parallel with the woofer, not in series. Problem is that there aren't 2 leads for the drivers. Otherwise, extremely useful, thanks.

    And find the part locally.
  • a5ehren
    a5ehren Posts: 23
    edited March 2008
    Thanks - I think I can see the 2 ohm very faintly on the side of R1. Now I just have to figure out how to desolder the old one and unglue it without doing any more damage :P
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited March 2008
    You don't have to unglue it necessarily.

    As long as you unsolder it/clip the leads, you can solder in the new one on the other side of the board. Find someone with soldering experience to do it though.
  • a5ehren
    a5ehren Posts: 23
    edited March 2008
    Never mind all this - I called Polk to see how much a replacement is, and it turns out it's only $16. :P