Capacitor break-in

13

Comments

  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2008
    The Rat Shack silver solder is very easy to work with, and is cheap. I use that a lot. The Dayton Silver solder is harder to work with. Lots of guys like the Cardis solder. I have not tried this stuff yet. Just do one XO at a time. As far as "fantastic human being" I fall quite short in this department, but I appreciate the compliment. I am just passing one what I have learned here, DIYaudio, and many failures.
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Yeah that high silver content doesn't stick well. Thanks, any help is appreciated. this is gonna be fun. Scratch the dayton music solder.
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    PE doesn't list a rat shack solder
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Found cardas solder checking out of PE hopefully I have everything. Ahh the smell of quality solder!!
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2008
    domesda2b wrote: »
    PE doesn't list a rat shack solder

    LOL. Radio Shack is refered to as "rat shack". The solder is still silver solder. About $6.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited April 2008
    I found the Rat Shack silver solder to be junk too. It only sticks to my carpet.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    LOL, Hey thanks again. I got everything on the shopping list. Got the idea of using shrink tape 3m double stick foam pads and 14" wire ties. time I checked out The bill was 160 dollars! So why am I upgrading the stock inductor coil again. So it sound better(laugh)
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Shh I found some carda solder
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Don't forget the Go-ril-la-la-la-la glue tape! hey Gorilla glue expands and might work great to attach the new inductor coil. Don't you just love a job well done! Falling inductor coils will not be tolerated!
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2008
    Face wrote: »
    I found the Rat Shack silver solder to be junk too. It only sticks to my carpet.

    You using the fine gage stuff on a spool? I use that stuff exclusively for electronics. That stuff bonds great for me. You need 40 watts to use silver as opposed to 25 for regular stuff.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2008
    domesda2b wrote: »
    Don't forget the Go-ril-la-la-la-la glue tape! hey Gorilla glue expands and might work great to attach the new inductor coil. Don't you just love a job well done! Falling inductor coils will not be tolerated!

    Which inductor are you speaking of?
    The large one?
    If so are you looking at the Erse iron core?
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Yeah the one nspindel recommended Ersa Super Q 15mH 16AWG Inductor coil! Thanks buddies
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Right? Confirm if you will?

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=266-954
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited April 2008
    I believe it may have been in a tube. It didn't didn't melt too easily either.

    I've been using WBT and it works fantastic. Low melting point, and sticks to everything. I have some Cardas silver here I have yet to try though.

    I believe my iron is a 30 watt unit. I would be afraid to use anything larger on a crossover circuit, especially from a 30 year old Tannoy or 50 year old tube amp.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    I want to cook some capacitors and solder.
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    The dual watt 20/40 station I have has a toggle switch.
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2008
    Face wrote: »
    I believe it may have been in a tube. It didn't didn't melt too easily either.

    I've been using WBT and it works fantastic. Low melting point, and sticks to everything. I have some Cardas silver here I have yet to try though.

    I believe my iron is a 30 watt unit. I would be afraid to use anything larger on a crossover circuit, especially from a 30 year old Tannoy or 50 year old tube amp.

    Thanks face. Yes the stuff in a tube is a pain. Many are scared of higher wattage irons. Hotter irons are better than lower watt irons in most situations. If you use a 25watt iron, and have to leave it on the part for longer time to get the part hot enough to make the solder bond well it is actually worse for the component than bringing up the heat fast, and making the joint, and cooling it quickly.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Going to bed to dream about capacitors.. Should be a piece of cake compared to finding the loose solder joints on my yamaha preamp last week took 40 hours and some chopsticks to find. Gives me great satisfaction. Get some sleep, you members have kept this polkie up all night and well entertained. Hope all the work will be worth it. Thank you!
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Nothing worse than a cold iron!
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    ben62670 wrote: »
    Which inductor are you speaking of?
    The large one?
    If so are you looking at the Erse iron core?

    If you look at that coil it has mounting tabs so why are you guys mounting it to the stock coil? Could mount to the inside of speaker cabinet as long as screws don't go all the way through even if they did could use nuts and bolts with sealer or glue double stick tape whatever. I think that would be much more secure you are relying on plastic to hold the weight of the new replacement inductor!
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    In fact the capacitors don't have to necessarily be mounted on the board either! I need me some good 18AWG solid copper wire... Always thinking. can't sleep for thinking of sweet capacitors roasting..
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    I have an idea mount the capacitors on the old coil with shrink tape and mount the new inductor on the wall in the next room. Now you're cooking with FIRE!
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    I do not think it's a good idea for any part of the conductor of an inductor should touch anything or rub against another conductor for safety reasons folks.
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Isolate Isolate Isolate and insulate invest in some heat shrink tubing sound advice good night. Should wear safety goggles when soldering or frying bacon too!
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,647
    edited April 2008
    Don't forget your tin foil hat.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    F1nut wrote: »
    Don't forget your tin foil hat.

    I only use that to shield me from bad tweeters and it should be rubberized. Usually I solder naked with a ground strap LoL:rolleyes:
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  • NotaSuv
    NotaSuv Posts: 3,854
    edited April 2008
    Domes thanks for the great coffee thru the nose laugh today.............just who were you talkin to last night :)

    good luck in your upgrade....and if all else fails talk to CL and cap it
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Yeah, talking with anyone that could help. Thanks Appreciate. I was cramming electronic parts in my basket and didn't want to forget the musical solder... Brain was going a million miles per hour last night. Can't wait to solder and put it all back together. Took longer to do the research than it will to solder and put back together..
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  • NotaSuv
    NotaSuv Posts: 3,854
    edited April 2008
    domesda2b wrote: »
    Yeah, talking with anyone that could help. Thanks Appreciate. I was cramming electronic parts in my basket and didn't want to forget the musical solder... Brain was going a million miles per hour last night. Can't wait to solder and put it all back together. Took longer to do the research than it will to solder and put back together..

    LOL:D
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
    Is the polarity opposite between the left and right crossover inductors? The polarity on the tweeter inductor is opposite. The "P" terminal is hooked up to the START of the inner core winding on the left and looking at the "P" terminal on the PCB on right is hooked to the outer winding of crossover inductor coil wire. Does polarity matter on inductor coils?
    Thanks
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