Capacitor break-in

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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    F1nut wrote: »
    Your 20 year annoyance is just about over.

    You mean somewhere someplace there's hope and a positive note! That made me feel real good. We'll see... Some people may like SL2000 tweeters using tube but I'm using solid state, so. I don't need a chart to tell me what sounds good either. The SL2000 tweeters are ok for low listening levels and classical strings but turn it up and headache for me. It does something to female voices. Someone else on this forum mentioned a spitting effect. If you listen real good maybe not at first but you will notice it if you have good ears or play music. Maybe I just don't know what I'm talking about but I know anytime someone else listened to it they said the same thing. TINNY AND HARSH. Is it the tweeters, I don't know. I'll buy anything new if I think it's better. So silk domes have holes in them?(laugh)
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,833
    edited April 2008
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    No, the new silk domes do not have holes in them.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    Doesn't silk naturally have pores in the material or is it doped? Thanks
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  • spkrdtr
    spkrdtr Posts: 11
    edited April 2008
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    ben62670 wrote: »
    Was I too harsh?

    Seriously spkrdtr F1nut told me when I first got serious about this hobby that "A mind is like a paraschute... unless it is open..."

    Yup. Hey, what do I know, I'm just a hokey-Polkie. Guru's and experts always know best. Sorry to have bored you guys with a different point of view.......
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited April 2008
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    domesda2b wrote: »
    Doesn't silk naturally have pores in the material or is it doped? Thanks

    Both!
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,833
    edited April 2008
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    The Polk tweeters are rubberized silk domes.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited April 2008
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    F1nut wrote: »
    The Polk tweeters are rubberized silk domes.

    That's weird, the last pair of RDOs I got in appear to be pure gold; although the box does say "RDO-198G"...
    Jake
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    F1nut wrote: »
    The Polk tweeters are rubberized silk domes.

    Interesting
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    Does that mean I can turn them up louder and they won't vibrate?
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    Guess I'm trying to understand how the coil interacts with the dome. We'll see. When I took the dome seal loose on the stock plastic dome it didn't seem to effect it much so isn't that just a dust cover? later I sealed it back down even knowing the new rdo's were on the way. Hard to say shrug. Pretty much burned out on this issue.. Does it sound good? does it leak? Ok then, Bye
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2008
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    spkrdtr wrote: »
    Yup. Hey, what do I know, I'm just a hokey-Polkie. Guru's and experts always know best. Sorry to have bored you guys with a different point of view.......

    Its all about what you hear. It has nothing to do with specs. I am into audio like many others here. Everyone has different tastes. Stick around. Experiment a little. Hear it for yourself. I used to believe same valued/specked components would sound the same. I was pig headed for a long time. I thought these guru's with a bunch of post were all rich dummies/snobs chasing olives in their martini glasses while looking down on other peoples audio gear. Most of them will offer good solid advice just to be helpful. When 9 out of 10 senior members try to tell you something it is kinda like ask the audience. Usually they are right.
    BTW Welcome to Club Polk
    Ben
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    Exchange ideas on do-it-yourself projects with other experts; from furniture builders to obsessive compulsive tweakers. Thanks
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 49,833
    edited April 2008
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    Having fun, Sal?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    My crossover is out because I'm updating tweeters and safety guard polyswitch on my SDA 2B's. Looking at the PCB there's not much to it. Initially I see 3 capacitors and 1 resistor. Sticker says rev B 1987. It would be nice to solder in some new capacitors for fun. I need help or more direction. Might as well do everything at once if I can get the parts reasonable. how much could it cost?
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2008
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    Check partsexpress.com I have tried a few different caps, and for a cheap experiment with good results I recommend trying the Dayton caps, and using the mills resistors. Roughly $60
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    ben62670 wrote: »
    Check partsexpress.com I have tried a few different caps, and for a cheap experiment with good results I recommend trying the Dayton caps, and using the mills resistors. Roughly $60

    Cool, now which capacitors. I see a light blue 20uf a sliver blue 40uf and a yellow can labeled T1 E-0012-1 12J and the grey ceramic 5 watt resistor. Am I missing something there is the safety guard i see. One other burgandy dark purple small component? I mean it ain't that big O board!
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    I want to upgrade my caps so bad sitting here looking at the board components and it looks like it could be some great satisfaction. can tell I get excited around soldering irons. LoL.. Suppose I'll need musical SOLDER NOW! Thanks Polk forum you really started something. jokes
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  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited April 2008
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    domesda2b wrote: »
    Cool, now which capacitors. I see a light blue 20uf a sliver blue 40uf and a yellow can labeled T1 E-0012-1 12J and the grey ceramic 5 watt resistor. Am I missing something there is the safety guard i see. One other burgandy dark purple small component? I mean it ain't that big O board!

    All of them :)

    I just did my 2b's with Sonicaps, have a look here:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62106
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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  • nspindel
    nspindel Posts: 5,343
    edited April 2008
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    Folks, I'm heading outta town for a week (assuming American Airlines doesn't hose me tomorrow morning). This thread seems to have gone a bit OT, I'd still love to hear more about my original question as to what's actually going on inside these caps during the break-in process. Hopefully when I get back there'll be some good enlightenment on this topic.

    See y'all in a week.

    Spin
    Good music, a good source, and good power can make SDA's sing. Tubes make them dance.
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    Ok thanks, greatly appreciated
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  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,716
    edited April 2008
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    These are the Dayton's that Ben was recommending:

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-442

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-436

    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=027-430
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2008
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    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55888
    Have fun!
    2 each
    12uf, 20uf, and 40uf
    most omit the 750pf cap (little bypass one)
    2 2.7ohm mills resistors
    PE has mills for $3.25 each in 2.5ohms (plenty close enough)
    PE also has Dayton Audio 2.7ohms for $1.25 each if you want same valued resistors as stock.
    Me I would use the Mills. The resistors used in this crossover design are in series with the signal, and are before any other crossover component therefore have no adverse effect to the XO Point, or slope. They are just used to attenuate the signal so the tweeter is not over bearing.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    K, I have a basket going at partsexpress.com. Looking at Dayton DMPC-40 40uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitors. What uf value is the yellow cap, it doesn't say or can't read?
    I am going with new inductor coil as described in nspindel's thread listed above.
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    excuse me i see it now 12uf thanks
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    Wow iI'm done shopping al except maybe better musical solder hehe! You guys are the greatest! Thanks so much that was painless as possible! What a great forum!
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    yeah the little purple brown one I see that
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    Do you have the link to the mills and dayton 5 watt 2.7 ohm resistors? It doesn't say mills on the one I'm looking at for .25 cents. Wirewound resistor right?
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    Never mind I found them, they're in audio grade resistors thanks
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  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited April 2008
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    You are doing an excellent job of answering your questions:p:)
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
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  • domesda2b
    domesda2b Posts: 89
    edited April 2008
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    ben62670 wrote: »
    You are doing an excellent job of answering your questions:p:)
    You're a fantastic human being my friend and I couldn't of done it without some good directions. Hey just point me in the right direction. I'm almost ready to check out! I even remembered the musical solder WHOO-HO! Nothing to it. I'm excited.
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