So I bought a bike

AsSiMiLaTeD

We went up to Richardson Bike Mart last night and I picked up a Trek 820. I know we have some guys into biking on here, and wanted to get your thoughts.

Yes, I know this is an entry level bike, you get what you pay for, yada yada. I need to get out and start getting some exercise, and this is what I am willling to spend at the moment. I have a couple weeks to try it out, so here are a couple questions.

This will be primarily for dirt trails (nothing major for sure) and road use. I already have a Diamonback Maravista for primary street riding, but this one will be used on road to get me to and from trails.

1 - I didn't shop around at other stores much, and this is really the only mountain-ish bike they had in this price range (below $300). Is there a better option that I should look at somewhere else?

2 - What should I look at in terms of future upgrades - what should I do first? I'm not looking to spend mega-bucks, otherwise I would have bought a more expensive bike to begin with, but if I can spend $50 - $100 here and there as budget allows I'd like to have a list of things to upgrade.

3 - What are the limits of this bike? Can I take it on dirt trails and such, whta's the level of trail difficulty I can attempt? Not that I'll ever get into that much, but would like to know.

Any other thoughts in general? I know it's entry level, but is it gonna fall apart on me in six months? I'd hate to take it back and wait until I can afford something better to buy, because I wanna get started now - but I don't wanna end up with a $300 heap of steel in a year either.

Thanks for your input

AsSiMiLaTeD

Oh, and let me go ahead and get this out of the way before someone posts it:

"You take that bike off any sweet jumps?" No, not yet...

VSchneider

It seems to me your Diamonback should be equally good for light dirt but much better for road than the TREK. Did I miss something?

nms

I'm assuming it's rim brakes, and a suspension fork. Trek makes good bikes, I don't think it'll fall apart on you as long as you don't leave it out in the rain (steel frame).

To be honest, the best upgrade to a mtb you can do is disk brakes, but I don't think your wheels can accommodate them, and the frame has to have braze-ons for the brake assemblies. The stopping power is unreal compared to even the best rim brakes. But, like I said, unless your frame has the braze-ons, you'd have to get a new frame to have disk brakes. At the very least you're looking at a new set of wheels that have mountings for the disks on the hubs.

For comfort, you might want to look into a new saddle depending on how crappy the one that comes on the bike is.

BUT, before you do that, make sure the saddle is LEVEL and at the proper height. So many problems come from not having a level saddle. The proper height is so your legs are almost completely extended at the bottom of the pedal stroke, but your knee should not be locked. This gives you the most efficient pedaling position and prevents knee pain.

The bike you have is fine for a lot of stuff. I have one that's pretty similar as far as components go and I can ride it down stairs no problem. The key is technique. There's pretty much nothing you shouldn't do with that bike, except crazy stuff like downhill riding and massive jumps (several feet or more). Go out, have fun, and for God's sake WEAR A HELMET!

brettw22

I wouldn't think you're going to find a lot of price swing in a bike that's only $289.....

The only downside I could tell you is the weight and frame strength. True, it's a "mountain hardtail" but it won't be as durable as the higher up lines that have thicker support at the joints (look at this 3700 to see the reinforcement by the handlebar to see what I'm talking about). The higher the line, the more strength at the joints with metal flared etc.....

I know you're a beginner and not looking for anything hardcore, but I think you'd be even better served by that 3700 for $50 more unless you're basically just looking to see if you're into biking, then throwing the thing away for a more serious bike down the road.

When I bought mine, I bought one that I knew was overkill that I could grow into. I don't think you're going to have that leeway with that bike, but if you just want to get out there and see how you like it, it'll do the job.

One last thing.......for upgrades, it's hard to justify the price for the components vs. just buying a bike that already has upgraded parts as part of the model. I know there is always something better, but I wouldn't look at buying the least expensive bike, then considering putting double that into parts. I wouldn't worry about the parts upgrades on a frame that's not as strong or light as some of the other models........but again that's up a few models and 2-3x what you've spent on this one.

rskarvan

I love Trek bikes. My wife worked in Waterloo, WI at the Trek factory as a bicycle assembler. She speaks highly of the factory.

I don't think you can go very wrong with any Trek Mtn Bike. The neat thing about Trek is that they use a very good frame on all their mountain bikes. More expensive bikes generally just get higher-end components.

The first upgrade should definitely be the saddle. Then, maybe clip-less pedals. Following that, just upgrade as the lower-end components eventually stop working properly/optimally.

ohskigod

I have an old TREK 850. didnt even have a front fork....eeeeesh

tough @ss bike. I'm over 300 lbs and did some crazy **** on that bike in the day. Trek makes good bikes, especially for the money

I upgraded the rear derailure (Deore XT) and seat (lots of padding for my fat arse)

I really should ride again this year

nms

Oh yeah, as Ron reminded me, clipless pedals are amazing. If you don't want to get the special shoes, you can get pedals with straps on them (clip pedals... don't ask why they're called this). These can be dangerous if you tighten them too much, but are a good compromise IMHO if you want to use regular shoes.

dorokusai

Lou uses small children for seats on his bicycles.

bobman1235

Just ride it and see what it "feels" like you need.

Saddle and clipless pedals are the only things I'd upgrade before even hitting the trail with it.

Once you hit the trail you'll have a better idea of what you'd like to change. Personally, the only components I've ever upgraded on my bike has been when components start to break. Chances are you won't be hardcore enough to need to dump money into 200 dollar rear derailers.

So... saddle, clipless pedals (and shoes), and go ride

Oh and if you don't already have 'em, get a good helmet and some biking gloves. Invaluable.

cambir

I ride a fair amount and worked in a shop for 5 years, so here's my 2 cents:

1 - I didn't shop around at other stores much, and this is really the only mountain-ish bike they had in this price range (below $300). Is there a better option that I should look at somewhere else?

There are a lot of choices at that price point. I always encourage shopping around for the best fit - not all bikes fit a rider the same way even if they are the same size. If you are shorter, Trek and Giant usually fit better. Taller riders typically fit better on GT or Specialized. Is there a "better" option? Not necessarily.

2 - What should I look at in terms of future upgrades - what should I do first? I'm not looking to spend mega-bucks, otherwise I would have bought a more expensive bike to begin with, but if I can spend $50 - $100 here and there as budget allows I'd like to have a list of things to upgrade.

I don't know that I would spend a ton of money upgrading parts on a $300 bike. Better to just ride it for a while, then sell it and upgrade to a better bike if your skills advance to a level needing better equipment. However, upgrading the seat, seatpost, pedals may help. Next would be derailleurs and maybe the susp. fork.

3 - What are the limits of this bike? Can I take it on dirt trails and such, whta's the level of trail difficulty I can attempt?

You can attempt any level you are comfortable with, but the limits are the fact that a $300 bike will not withstand the abuse over time quite as well as $1K bike. If you ride beginner trails and maintain the bike properly, this bike will do fine. Advanced trails may cause the suspension to bottom out and parts to wear faster.

Any other thoughts in general? I know it's entry level, but is it gonna fall apart on me in six months?

No, it shouldn't. If you maintain it correctly, it can last for years.

I'd hate to take it back and wait until I can afford something better to buy, because I wanna get started now - but I don't wanna end up with a $300 heap of steel in a year either.

Get out and ride it! If you like riding, upgrade after a year or two.

AsSiMiLaTeD

Thanks for all the info guys.

Yeah, I'm talking about what you'd all consider to be really easy trails, no big jumps (hopefully no jumps) or anything like that - basically just some dirt tracks with hills and such - think bunny slopes if you're familiar with skiing.

Who knows I may change my mind at some point, but don't see myself ever jumping over rocks and stuff like that, I'll end up injured.

The bike is a perfect fit for me, that's why I bought it on the spot without shopping around or doing any research. Upgrading the seat is going to be a must. I just wanted to make sure that this thing isn't going to fall apart on me in a year. RBM gives me two free tune-ups in the first year, and I'll maintain it with the same excess that I do everything else, so that shouldn't be an issue.

I won't leave it in the rain, but is it okay to ride in the rain as long as I wipe it down, or should I just avoid that altogether?

bobman1235

It's impossible to completely avoid, just try to dry it down as soon as you get home.

And half the fun is getting injured, so do it up! My cousin and I ride, and we don't go home until at least one of us is bleeding. It's not a good ride if you don't bleed

fumoffu

Polkmaniac wrote: »

If I can spend $50 - $100 here and there as budget allows I'd like to have a list of things to upgrade.

I agree with the other folk that you should not upgrade this bike to much, just if you out grow it you'll probably want an whole new bike and it'll be more economical that way.

There are alot of other accessories you should consider picking up over time. Extra tubes, tube patch kits, tire pumps, Camel bak, water bottles, sexy bike shorts, HEMLET, shoes, indoor trainer, street tires, tire levers, trail side repair kit, chain cleaning machine, lube, don't let grime build up on that chain or you'll wear down you chain and cogs in no time! Yea, learn how to maintain it!

Enjoy! And remember that music and road riding don't mix!!!

fumoffu

Polkmaniac wrote: »

I won't leave it in the rain, but is it okay to ride in the rain as long as I wipe it down, or should I just avoid that altogether?

Dry it off and lube and your good.

Also make sure you stretch! After a 5 hr ride, I didn't quite take care of my self and I got a really bad charley horse, and tore my calf muscle, and has taken me a LONG time to recover. Can't wait to get back on this spring!!!

brettw22

The accessories can put a serious dent in your pocket........

THe MUST HAVES for me were:
- Camelbak (with the wide mouth bladder....MUCH Easier to fill)

- Padded Gel Gloves

- Padded riding shorts (PROTECT THE JEWELS.......SERIOUSLY).....at a minimum, do NOT ride in something like a brief or you'll end up with severe discomfort....

- Helmet (given)

Past those, the things I also got were:
- Helmet mounted headlight (something like $200 or so) which was a no-brainer because I went through 2 packs of batteries on 2 rides......wasn't gonna commit that money to throwaways...

- Clipless pedals and shoes (nice to get power from both the downpush and the up-pull)....basic pedals with the top strap basically give you the same thing, but the problem I had was my foot coming out of the pedal and then getting planted with the loop on the bottom, and it only takes ONCE for that to catch on something to throw you

- Speedometer - love having feedback on how far i've ridden, time, etc.....

- Polar HRM - keep track of calories.....for me it's really all about seeing numbers being posted......if i have nothing to quantify it, it doesn't seem like i'm as into it......

Demiurge

I ride mountain bikes. My honest answer is that a bike that's less that $300 is going to have limitations, this doesn't make it a crappy bike whatsoever. Trek makes great bikes, even on the lower end. As I am sure you know, you can spend $8,000 or more on a mountain bike so you're definitely left of center on the spectrum here.

I wouldn't stick much money into this bike at all, instead I would see if I am going to be comitted to riding a lot and then invest in something better down the road.

I can spend $300 on new cranks for my bike, to put it into perspective.

I hope you end up enjoying it! It's fun and rewarding.

I agree with Brett's suggestions.

mule

Home Depot safety glasses, 1 clear and one tinted, don't get caught up in spendy shades because you will trash them anyway.

What terrain do you ride? tires can make the biggest difference on a bike.

The biggest investment you need to make is time. If you ride 1 time a month it probably will not be much fun because you will tend to suffer. If you ride 1 time a week you will find a noticeable improvement in fitness and skill which makes riding more fun to the second power. Ride three days a week and look out, we are talking more fun to the third power:D

Find some fun people to ride with, key word fun. Don't waste time with the "Glam Rockers" or "corperate riders" as my friend Dave calls them.

In no time at all you will feel like a kid again popin wheelies and skidding out:D

fatchowmein

+1 to Brett's recommendations. There's a bike store to the east of Spring Creek and 75, behind the Taco Cabana. They're having a huge sale but I haven't been in there so I don't have a specific recommendation.
Look around for accessaries.

Polkmaniac wrote: »

Yeah, I'm talking about what you'd all consider to be really easy trails, no big jumps (hopefully no jumps) or anything like that - basically just some dirt tracks with hills and such - think bunny slopes if you're familiar with skiing.

Who knows I may change my mind at some point, but don't see myself ever jumping over rocks and stuff like that, I'll end up injured.

Speaking of trails, there's a concrete "trail" from Preston Meadow Park (north of W Parker Rd & Coit) that snakes east and south all the way to Starbucks on 15th between Alma and 75. Now, that's what I call roughing it for beginners!

Polkmaniac wrote: »

I won't leave it in the rain, but is it okay to ride in the rain as long as I wipe it down, or should I just avoid that altogether?

You'll have to wipe it down and relube your chains, cables, and joints. It's a PITA and best to be avoided. Of course, you could always bring it back to RBM and have them deal with it but I'm not sure if it classifies as regular maintenance or if they'll charge you extra.

Have fun! Get a riding buddy to go along. You're more likely to go if you do. Bikes are the ultimate time machine. You'll get into the swing of things in no time.

Enjoy!

exalted512

nms wrote: »

To be honest, the best upgrade to a mtb you can do is disk brakes, but I don't think your wheels can accommodate them, and the frame has to have braze-ons for the brake assemblies. The stopping power is unreal compared to even the best rim brakes. But, like I said, unless your frame has the braze-ons, you'd have to get a new frame to have disk brakes. At the very least you're looking at a new set of wheels that have mountings for the disks on the hubs.

Brakes have everything to do with what terrain youre riding in. If youre riding in dirt/road most of the time, i prefer v-brakes, in snow/mud, thats when disc brakes become handy. I had a raleigh m60 with v-brakes that would stop you QUICK, my newer raleigh mojave 8.0 has disc brakes and doesnt stop that quick. Even when I tested the other bikes that were costing 3x as much, they didnt stop like my old bike with v-brakes did. On the other hand, when I was on a really muddy trail last summer, the disc brakes did wonders for me as compared to my old v-brake system.
-Cody

Shannon W.

I like my Fisher Sugar +3.

I started out on a old Trek Y frame.

Shannon

nms

exalted512 wrote: »

Brakes have everything to do with what terrain youre riding in. If youre riding in dirt/road most of the time, i prefer v-brakes, in snow/mud, thats when disc brakes become handy. I had a raleigh m60 with v-brakes that would stop you QUICK, my newer raleigh mojave 8.0 has disc brakes and doesnt stop that quick. Even when I tested the other bikes that were costing 3x as much, they didnt stop like my old bike with v-brakes did. On the other hand, when I was on a really muddy trail last summer, the disc brakes did wonders for me as compared to my old v-brake system.
-Cody

Hmm. My experience is that disk brakes will always stop the bike faster than V brakes. I agree a good V brake setup is very good - I have them on m current mtb, but it's time for new pads so it isn't stopping as strongly as it should (and no, this had nothing to do with my accident 2 weeks ago )

bobman1235

I've never tried disc brakes, but I truly don't understand how they can stop THAT much faster. If I jam on my V brakes, unless I"m flying (which I tend to not be on a trail), I stop. At any reasonably slow speed I can literally throw myself off my bike with my V brakes.

The problem I have with disc brakes on a trail is tis' a relatively complicated system. I've had pretty much everything on my bike break on the trail, and 90% of it I can fix; I'm pretty sure if my caliper broke I'd be ****.

brettw22

Bob, have you ever been on a bike wtih disc brakes? I could honestly see myself doing an endo simply because they grip so quickly/well..........

MikeC78

Disc brakes are not that complicated, and are actually pretty easy to maintain. I have the hydraulic discs on my bike, and would never have it any other way. Good thing with disc brakes is no wear on the rim, easier to dismount a wheel, and much better braking power. They will also stop you a lot better in wet and muddy terrain, as they can dampen the brakes on a V brake or caliper system.

nms

brettw22 wrote: »

Bob, have you ever been on a bike wtih disc brakes? I could honestly see myself doing an endo simply because they grip so quickly/well..........

The first time I rode a bike with disk brakes I almost did that because they have so much grip. I braked what I thought was lightly to turn around and almost bit it.

bobman1235

brettw22 wrote: »

Bob, have you ever been on a bike wtih disc brakes? I could honestly see myself doing an endo simply because they grip so quickly/well..........

No, I haven't, and maybe if I did try them I'd see what y'all were talking about, but I've ridden for a few years (less the past few, unfortunately) and can't say I've ever said "man I wish my brakes stopped better".

So I guess it's a case of "those who don't know don't know they don't know."

As for them being "relatively simple".... not compared to a steel cable (which I carry an extra of in my emergency pack). You blow a hydraulic line on the trail, good luck fixing that.

MikeC78

That's the whole point, you'll likely not blow a hydraulic line over breaking a steel cable. There is really no maintenance adjusting like older V brake or caliper systems.

Anyway, the brakes you have serve your purpose just fine. No need to go out and spend $$ on something you don't need or are happy with.

Demiurge

bobman1235 wrote: »

No, I haven't, and maybe if I did try them I'd see what y'all were talking about, but I've ridden for a few years (less the past few, unfortunately) and can't say I've ever said "man I wish my brakes stopped better".

So I guess it's a case of "those who don't know don't know they don't know."

As for them being "relatively simple".... not compared to a steel cable (which I carry an extra of in my emergency pack). You blow a hydraulic line on the trail, good luck fixing that.

Hydraulic line? I know they sell them for bikes and Mike has them, but most are mechanical cable actuated disc brakes....at least the ones I have on my Specialized are. The hydraulic ones cost a lot more money.

bobman1235

Ah, my mistake. Maybe I just don't want to spend the money then

AsSiMiLaTeD

Yeah I think disc brakes are abit over the top for me right now. I took the bike out for a bit of street riding last night, and had no problems stopping, even when flying down at 40 degree slope at full speed...not a good idea on this bike I know...

I'm familiar enough with the bike now, gonna take it out on one of the easier dirt trails here in a bit. I can already tell I'm not going to be in good enough shape ti make it very long. I assume riding on dirt is much harder than on pavement, and I was getting tired after about 45 minutes last night.

I'm gonna give the dirt a shot today, but I have a feeling I'll need a solid month of paved riding before I'm ready to do much off-road, just from a stamina standpoint.