How to remove mid-range from LSi15's?

Sami
Sami Posts: 4,634
edited February 2008 in Troubleshooting
I had no trouble removing them from 7's but these on the 15's seem to be a very tight fit and will not come off. At least not without putting a screwdriver in the tiny gap and forcing them out. I'm afraid that would put a bad scratch on the finish so how do I remove it without damaging the speaker even more?

The driver seems to be broken. When it moves it makes a crackling sound and it isn't anywhere as elastic as the one below it.
Post edited by Sami on

Comments

  • jcaut
    jcaut Posts: 1,849
    edited February 2008
    I would try going in through one of the screw holes with a little pick, or a curved pick (hook) and try to get a little leverage to pop the driver loose. I figure there's some sort of gasket material under the driver frame, so you should be able to work something in there. A real small flat screwdriver might work.

    Also, if you're sure the woofer is dead anyway, you could just puncture the cone. I'd do that as a last resort, however.
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited February 2008
    jcaut wrote: »
    Also, if you're sure the woofer is dead anyway, you could just puncture the cone. I'd do that as a last resort, however.

    Thought about it but I'd at least like to try to see if it can be saved. Most likely not.
  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited February 2008
    plastic putty knife- use the corner to pop it out. And that driver is toast, but if it's got a hole in it, you'll have a hard time getting polk to replace it under warranty.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited February 2008
    Bought them used from CP anyways, so might as well just put a knife through it... :)

    Sounds like it's not going to be fixable. It plays fine after I "pop it out", then goes back to distortion after 20 minutes or so.
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited February 2008
    putty knife or flat screwdriver. but cover it in a cloth so it won't scratch any of the finish
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
    Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin:
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited February 2008
    Don't even think about using a putty knife or screwdriver....Jason(Jcaut) suggested the best way to remove the driver. Even a cloth covered tool will damage the finished cutout edges on the LSi models.

    I've encountered that issue many times and dental picks come in real handy.

    You can grasp the edge of the outer frame/basket, before the cabinet mounting hole and pull forward. You may have to tug all the holes to get some leverage on the driver but it's safer.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited February 2008
    Still no luck, I tried my mom's knitting sticks but there isn't anything in between that it can hook into. I've thought about just going through the driver but I don't have a replacement yet. I'll get that one in, and then I'll get it done.
  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited February 2008
    get a bolt the same size as the hole in the driver frame and just drive it in. it'll tear up the hole on the driver a little, but it's junk anyway. Also try removing the other driver- if it comes out easier, then you can just reach through and pop the first out.
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
  • AndyGwis
    AndyGwis Posts: 3,655
    edited February 2008
    Can you use gravity to help out? Take the screws out, lean the driver down towards the ground, then pat the back of the cabinet? Kind of like what you do when someone is coughing / choking. I just wouldn't hit it too hard.
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
  • Midnite Mick
    Midnite Mick Posts: 1,591
    edited February 2008
    Could see if the tweeter comes out easier. Can't remember how big the tweeter cutout is but if you can get your hand in there you could try to push the mid out. I remember removing my tweeter with little trouble. Just a thought.

    Mike
    Modwright SWL 9.0 SE (6Sons Audio Thunderbird PC with Oyaide 004 terminations)
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    Phillips Pronto TS1000 Universal Remote
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited February 2008
    AndyGwis wrote: »
    Can you use gravity to help out? Take the screws out, lean the driver down towards the ground, then pat the back of the cabinet? Kind of like what you do when someone is coughing / choking. I just wouldn't hit it too hard.

    First thing I tried, no help at all, it seems like there is some adhesive cluing it in as well although I could wrong. I tried the other driver, same. I'll try to remove the tweeter tonight.
  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited February 2008
    It's likely a gasket that is keeping it stuck.

    If you have a massive magnet(like a spare driver sitting around), that could work. Otherwise, remove another driver and get your hands dirty.
  • AndyGwis
    AndyGwis Posts: 3,655
    edited February 2008
    I agree. You're going to have to pop out the tweeter and enter from the backside. . . I perfect idea for Valentine's day :)
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited February 2008
    AndyGwis wrote: »
    I agree. You're going to have to pop out the tweeter and enter from the backside. . . I perfect idea for Valentine's day :)

    I already told my wife V-day is for singles... :p
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited February 2008
    I got my replacement driver from Polk today, and cut thought the old one. Damn, still no luck in getting it out, it seems to be clued to the speaker. Yes, I'm not kidding, no matter how hard I pull it won't come out.
  • unc2701
    unc2701 Posts: 3,587
    edited February 2008
    Did you take out the screws?

    :D
    Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
    Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
    Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
    Backburner:Krell KAV-300i
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited February 2008
    Sami, can you take a snap shot up close to what your working with?

    Maybe pop the xover out and try it that way. Pop it out from the back.

    What did Polk tell you?
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited February 2008
    jakelm wrote: »
    Sami, can you take a snap shot up close to what your working with?

    Maybe pop the xover out and try it that way. Pop it out from the back.

    What did Polk tell you?

    Solved it. Like always, force is with me. I took a hammer and used the nail remover end to hook it into the metal frame and a little twist (actually not that little), and it popped out. Luckily no cosmetic damage to the speaker itself, of course the old driver is all cut out so I can't really tell what was the problem with it. Most likely the rubber on it was bad, it would work and then just get stuck and start making popping noise.

    With the hammer I was worried I would tear out the wood frame of the speaker and I would have to re-fabricate the mount. Luckily that did not happen. I'll have to test if it works now.
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited February 2008
    Good deal.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited February 2008
    Happy ending, that's all that matters... :D

    2284490618_03b514e950.jpg
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited February 2008
    Damn...you really did a number on that driver... wow..:eek:
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • Sami
    Sami Posts: 4,634
    edited February 2008
    jakelm wrote: »
    Damn...you really did a number on that driver... wow..:eek:

    That's what happens when you don't obey me! :p