Wanted to put something out there. Some food for thought.

mantis
mantis Posts: 17,201
I have been reading around here on the loved/hated debates over wire this and wire that. Ok cool I have for years been apart of it and learned alot.

Today with even more experience then ever and checking my ego at the door, I learned something that I never thought possible. Heavier guage wire for speakers don't help anything unless the run where of a certain length. When resistance increases, thicker wire is required to get the job done. I learned this from a wire engineer who taught me a few things and brushed up my knowledge. He basically told me to look at is a task that needs to get done. You need the proper tool to get this done, if you use more of a tool then whats required , what is the benefits? Is there any? And when all else fails is it all ego driven?

I thought long and hard then started testing this theory. I have found that once you have the proper guage speaker wire to get the job done, it's now a matter of quality and ternimation that will determine if you get the best sound. There are a million ways to talk about that but what I have found that over the years I have wasted alot of time and money on something I have been overkilling for no good reason other then ego. The pretty package, etc.

So the point of my post here is this, use the proper guage to get where you are going, don't worry about how cool it looks, worry about quality. I still am a firm believer of using the highest quality wire you can at the correct guage and length. Keep in mind interference and termination meaning the end points of the wire. Make sure they are clean and tight. Then you will find some extra money in your pockets that you can make bigger impacks on your system then if you would have spent more on the wires. Don't cheap your system on what it needs, by all means do that at least but get the job done.

Dan
Dan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
Post edited by mantis on
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Comments

  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited February 2008
    Nice post Dan, I hope you are wearing your flack jacket!

    The thing is, is that MOST hobbies when you put a bunch of people together are ego driven & people start trying to one-up everyone else.

    It's up to each individual to keep a clear head & a clear destination in mind for what they want to accomplish & to ignore all the hyperbole the gets thrown out. Especially if it is going to cost significantly more than you originally anticipated.

    I buy the best I can afford at the time. I focus on what I want it to do & if it will get the job done without costing me an arm and a leg.

    Yes better wire/IC's make a difference, but I'm not going to spend more than $50 for them, preferably less. I don't care how pretty they look, (especially since they are going to be hidden behind a rack!) what magical properties they supposedly have, whether or not the owner supports this club, that club, or world peace.

    So long as they are made well, go on & off with ease & don't degrade the sound and at a price I'm willing to pay I'm happy!
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,184
    edited February 2008
    mantis wrote: »
    Keep in mind interference and termination meaning the end points of the wire.
    That and other components within the complete [as a whole] connection. Not just the wire itself.
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,729
    edited February 2008
    200 wpc, but 50 buck cables........yeah ok.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited February 2008
    Well if you want to pay as much for cable as you do for power go right ahead Jesse.

    I don't, & never will. So long as sound is coming out of my speakers I know that the wire is doing what it's supposed to do.

    It's the ego driven fanatics that try to demand that EVERYTHING should be expensive that way you are assured that everything is on the same level. Well my common sense tells me that attitude is BS & will most likely lead to financial trouble somewhere else down the line.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • dephinistr8
    dephinistr8 Posts: 61
    edited February 2008
    I think I was guilty of the ego/naive thing. I went monster cables/monster connectors all the way around. Necessary? Probably not....I'm just not that bright...
    The Home Theater Setup:

    Fronts: Polk RTi6
    Center: Polk CSi5
    Surrounds: Polk FXi3
    Rears: Polk FXi3
    Sub: Polk PSW125
    AVR: Denon 3808CI
    TV: Mitsubishi 65" Diamond DLP (WD-65833)
    Game Console: Xbox360
    Game Console/Blu-Ray: PS3
    Satellite: DirecTV HD-DVR (HR21)
    HD-DVD: Toshiba HD-A35
    Remote: Logitech Harmony 890 Pro

    2 Channel Setup

    AVR: Pioneer VSA-910
    Speakers: Klipsch KG4 (from 1985)
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited February 2008
    Monster, just like Bose is a massive marketing force to be reckoned with Dephinistra8. You can't miss them because they are EVERYWHERE! When you hear, read & see ads everywhere for something, I think that it is just human nature to associate that name with being the best.

    It is not until you really start doing research & coming to forums like this that you start to see another side & other points of views.
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • dephinistr8
    dephinistr8 Posts: 61
    edited February 2008
    Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy with what I have, although reading a lot of the posts here makes me think I could've gone in a different direction and saved a fair amount of coin while getting the same 'quality'.

    Live & learn :)
    The Home Theater Setup:

    Fronts: Polk RTi6
    Center: Polk CSi5
    Surrounds: Polk FXi3
    Rears: Polk FXi3
    Sub: Polk PSW125
    AVR: Denon 3808CI
    TV: Mitsubishi 65" Diamond DLP (WD-65833)
    Game Console: Xbox360
    Game Console/Blu-Ray: PS3
    Satellite: DirecTV HD-DVR (HR21)
    HD-DVD: Toshiba HD-A35
    Remote: Logitech Harmony 890 Pro

    2 Channel Setup

    AVR: Pioneer VSA-910
    Speakers: Klipsch KG4 (from 1985)
  • Sherardp
    Sherardp Posts: 8,038
    edited February 2008
    Don't get me wrong, I'm very happy with what I have, although reading a lot of the posts here makes me think I could've gone in a different direction and saved a fair amount of coin while getting the same 'quality'.

    Live & learn :)

    You could have, that part is true indeed. Never to late to try different cables, etc. Check out SignalCable, Bluejeans, and a few others.
    Shoot the jumper.....................BALLIN.............!!!!!

    Home Theater Pics in the Showcase :cool:

    http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showcase/view.php?userid=73580
  • dephinistr8
    dephinistr8 Posts: 61
    edited February 2008
    I think it is too late for me though...I ran all my cabling through the metal studs in the wall when I built the home theater room..hehe
    The Home Theater Setup:

    Fronts: Polk RTi6
    Center: Polk CSi5
    Surrounds: Polk FXi3
    Rears: Polk FXi3
    Sub: Polk PSW125
    AVR: Denon 3808CI
    TV: Mitsubishi 65" Diamond DLP (WD-65833)
    Game Console: Xbox360
    Game Console/Blu-Ray: PS3
    Satellite: DirecTV HD-DVR (HR21)
    HD-DVD: Toshiba HD-A35
    Remote: Logitech Harmony 890 Pro

    2 Channel Setup

    AVR: Pioneer VSA-910
    Speakers: Klipsch KG4 (from 1985)
  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,990
    edited February 2008
    Build quality,a knowledge of electricity and what affects it,design,should all be considered when your cable hunting.Unfortunately we can't always slice a cable open to peek inside.Hence we always say to try different ones to see if you hear a difference.This is not a cut and dry subject.You can put 2 different sets of cables on one system with no change at all in SQ,but on another,it may make all the difference in the world.Bottom line,experiment alittle.You may surprise yourself.
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited February 2008
    I think alot of it is audiophiles' desire to fiddle with stuff. I think wires can help you fine tune your system, but any good quality wire, properly terminated, of the proper impedance, and using a proven topolgy will do the trick. I don't think you need to sell the farm on cables--that's just folly; but hey, whatever floats your boat. What kills me is seeing someone with a really mediocre system spending tons of money on cables--always focus on the quality of the basic components first.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • reeltrouble1
    reeltrouble1 Posts: 9,312
    edited February 2008
    what a blah blah blah panty load. I use the wire I want because I like the way the music sounds with it. if thats ego then I got tons of it, so what?

    RT1
  • shack
    shack Posts: 11,154
    edited February 2008
    Yawn.....boring.gif
    "Just because you’re offended doesn’t mean you’re right." - Ricky Gervais

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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited February 2008
    mantis wrote: »
    I wanted to put something out there

    Well, you should have...instead of putting it in here :)
    _________________________________________________
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  • 95Honda
    95Honda Posts: 77
    edited February 2008
    Well, there are a lot of things left out in that first post. Music is not DC or steady state AC (like 60Hz power). There are many factors that can make an audible and measurable difference in cabling. Impedance, Charactarisitc Impedance, Capacitence and Inductance all play major roles in audio. You can have a cable that is extremely low resistance (DC resistance like you measure with a DMM) and large gauge, but could have enough capacitence to start rolling off the top end of the audio spectrum, or even worse cause an un-stable amplifer to run into oscillation.... There are just too many factors to consider to say that DC resistance only is key to cable... It plays a major role, probably th emost important, but not the only role.
    www.forceaudio.com .... We cut through the BS.
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited February 2008
    Oh good God. I'm not going to become an electrical engineer to investigate all of that! I just want the wires to pass the signal from one peice of gear to the next so that I can hear my music & movies!
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • lakesailor
    lakesailor Posts: 319
    edited February 2008
    Since when did audio and Hi-fidelity ever make sense ? Just imagine what the world of consumer electronics would be like in general if we tried to apply principles of common sense as the common denominator
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited February 2008
    hey everyone...YOOOOOOOHOOOOO!!!! over here ....come on..... hurry up, the bus is leaving....
    Monitor 7b's front
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  • tonyb
    tonyb Posts: 32,990
    edited February 2008
    RUN!!!!!! Come on everyone.....oh,look at the kitty.......Run!!!!!!!!!
    HT SYSTEM-
    Sony 850c 4k
    Pioneer elite vhx 21
    Sony 4k BRP
    SVS SB-2000
    Polk Sig. 20's
    Polk FX500 surrounds

    Cables-
    Acoustic zen Satori speaker cables
    Acoustic zen Matrix 2 IC's
    Wireworld eclipse 7 ic's
    Audio metallurgy ga-o digital cable

    Kitchen

    Sonos zp90
    Grant Fidelity tube dac
    B&k 1420
    lsi 9's
  • zingo
    zingo Posts: 11,258
    edited February 2008
    I like your theory mantis and I also feel that holds true, from musical and electronic principles.

    Lakesailor, you have the best retort I've seen all day. Props.
  • obieone
    obieone Posts: 5,077
    edited February 2008
    OOOOHHHHHHHH!!!!Will you make UP your minds ALREADY!!!!
    I refuse to argue with idiots, because people can't tell the DIFFERENCE!
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,201
    edited February 2008
    Ricardo wrote: »
    Well, you should have...instead of putting it in here :)

    waaaaaaaaaa you got me with that one. LOL.

    Good **** man.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,201
    edited February 2008
    95Honda wrote: »
    Well, there are a lot of things left out in that first post. Music is not DC or steady state AC (like 60Hz power). There are many factors that can make an audible and measurable difference in cabling. Impedance, Charactarisitc Impedance, Capacitence and Inductance all play major roles in audio. You can have a cable that is extremely low resistance (DC resistance like you measure with a DMM) and large gauge, but could have enough capacitence to start rolling off the top end of the audio spectrum, or even worse cause an un-stable amplifer to run into oscillation.... There are just too many factors to consider to say that DC resistance only is key to cable... It plays a major role, probably th emost important, but not the only role.

    I tried to keep it simple my brother. Wire that is properly designed to do a certain job. Thats the starting point. Effects on the overall sound quality is a totally deeper topic. This is where trial and error comes into play. There is no way to tell unless you try.

    Many companies get this job done in very different ways. You have to listen for yourself man. the spec's don't always tell the enitire story. You bring up good points but I find it to be to much. It's going deeper then most are willing. Audiophiles are a different breed of people.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,201
    edited February 2008
    lakesailor wrote: »
    Since when did audio and Hi-fidelity ever make sense ? Just imagine what the world of consumer electronics would be like in general if we tried to apply principles of common sense as the common denominator

    Alot of companies would go out of bussiness I'll tell you that.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • SKsolutions
    SKsolutions Posts: 1,820
    edited February 2008
    A glut of magic pebbles perhaps?
    -Ignorance is strength -
  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited February 2008
    Lets say I wired up my HT with such-and-such speaker wire for 5.1. And later I decide to try out 7.1 or even bi-wiring/bi-amping and have to run new wire. How important is it then to match the existing wiring?Should I stick with the same brand/model? I would imagine sticking with the same guage is a no-brainer (or is it?)
    ____________________
    This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.

    HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
    2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
    Pool: Atrium 60's/45's
  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited February 2008
    steveinaz wrote: »
    What kills me is seeing someone with a really mediocre system spending tons of money on cables--always focus on the quality of the basic components first.

    Is it unreasonable to future proof wiring? Running speakerwire is not a simple task (assuming of course you're running it in walls, etc), so to me it would make sense that if at some point down the road you wanted to upgrade your 'basic/mediocre' system that planning ahead is just logical.

    When I put my wiring in, I made the 'investment' in better (now to be determined) or should I say more expensive wiring in the hopes that one day...Well now that day has come, all I have to do is put new speakers in (well OK and a new sub, and a new reciever, and a new amp, etc, etc. :eek:)

    -Madden
    ____________________
    This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.

    HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
    2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
    Pool: Atrium 60's/45's
  • mmadden28
    mmadden28 Posts: 4,283
    edited February 2008
    So is there a list out there somewhere with a subjective rating or general concens of certain brands of quality wire / price factor? And what brands to avoid?

    Is there a fairly accepted standard of minimum wire gauge for certain wattages? or is distance the only real factor?
    ____________________
    This post is a natural product. The slight variations in spelling and grammar enhance its individual character and beauty and in no way are to be considered flaws or defects.

    HT:Onkyo 805, Emotiva XPA-5, Mitsu 52" 1080p DLP / polkaudio RTi12, CSIa6, FXi3, uPro4K
    2-chnl : Pio DV-46AV (SACD), Dodd ELP, Emotiva XPA-1s, XPA-2, Odyssey Khartago, LSi9, SDA-SRS 2 :cool:, SB Duet, MSB & Monarchy DACs, Yamaha PX3 TT, SAE Tuner...
    Pool: Atrium 60's/45's
  • wizzy
    wizzy Posts: 867
    edited February 2008
    mmadden28 wrote: »
    Is there a fairly accepted standard of minimum wire gauge for certain wattages? or is distance the only real factor?

    http://www.audioholics.com/education/cables/speaker-cable-gauge

    Might help a little.
  • disneyjoe7
    disneyjoe7 Posts: 11,435
    edited February 2008
    mantis wrote: »
    Heavier guage wire for speakers don't help anything unless the run where of a certain length. When resistance increases, thicker wire is required to get the job done.
    Dan




    This is what made me a strong fan of AudioQuest cable where they state a thin guage for the tweeters and a larger guage for the bass. As the frequency of the signal rides on the skin of the wire not the center, so smaller wire is better for high frequencies. I like the fact they use a solid wire, where other use a stranded wire which as many small skinned effect things going on maybe.

    Speakers
    Carver Amazing Fronts
    CS400i Center
    RT800i's Rears
    Sub Paradigm Servo 15

    Electronics
    Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
    Parasound Halo A23
    Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
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