monitor 10 - problem with hi freq

shaike_adler
shaike_adler Posts: 7
edited January 2008 in Troubleshooting
Hi

I have the monitor 10b speakers for about 14 yesrs without any problems.
Now I have problems it's looks like the twitters are not working (the twitter its self looks good) (I have the problem with both of the speakers.
Can you please advice. Do you have the drawing of the cross over (I have electronics education so may be I'll find the problem my self)

Thanks
Shaike Adler
:confused:
Post edited by shaike_adler on
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Comments

  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited January 2008
    check and replace the fuse on the back of the speaker.. probably blown.

    it's the most common reason a tweeter suddenly stops working.

    welcome to club Polk!
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  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited January 2008
    Welcome to Club Polk. Here is the thread you are looking for....

    If the problem is in your tweeters and not in the crossover, you may want to consider the silk dome replacements. They are supposed to be quite the upgrade over the stock SL2000's.

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited January 2008
    If you don't have a fuse on the back, it's possible part of the crossover(poly switches) or the tweeters themselves are blown. If it's the latter, I'd also recommend the silk dome replacements. They're available from Polk and if you tell them you're a member here, you get free two day shipping.
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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  • shaike_adler
    shaike_adler Posts: 7
    edited January 2008
    Face wrote: »
    If you don't have a fuse on the back, it's possible part of the crossover(poly switches) or the tweeters themselves are blown. If it's the latter, I'd also recommend the silk dome replacements. They're available from Polk and if you tell them you're a member here, you get free two day shipping.

    I don't have a fuse on the back, I have something white on the cross over but I don't think it's a poly switch.
    Can you tell me how the poly switch look like?

    I have the sl2500 and one of them have high resistance (like open) do you have any advices?

    The silk dome are replacement for the sl2500 too, do I need to change both tweeter to the silk or only the one with the problem?

    Thanks shaike
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  • ShinAce
    ShinAce Posts: 1,194
    edited January 2008
    If you replace a tweeter, replace both.

    The resistance of the tweeter(out of circuit) should be like 3.5 or 7.0 ohms. After that checks out, consider the crossover network(capacitors and inductors).
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  • shaike_adler
    shaike_adler Posts: 7
    edited January 2008
    Hi all

    Can someone tell me how the Polly switch on the crossover look like?
    I have a problem that the tweeter some time is working and some time not working.

    I have some white component on the PCB of the crossover (on the second side of the resistors and the capacitors of the crossover)

    Thanks shaike
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  • avguytx
    avguytx Posts: 1,628
    edited January 2008
    It will typically be either a tan or blue disc shaped piece less than 1/2" in diameter and around 1/16" thick or so.

    If it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, that sounds like a poly switch issue but sometimes can ne other things. One easy way to figure out if it's the poly switch is to take a short lead of wire and connect it across the 2 leads coming from the disc...effectively, taking it out of the loop. Try that. Also, is it cutting out at higher volumes or at any range?
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  • shaike_adler
    shaike_adler Posts: 7
    edited January 2008
    avguytx wrote: »
    It will typically be either a tan or blue disc shaped piece less than 1/2" in diameter and around 1/16" thick or so.

    If it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't, that sounds like a poly switch issue but sometimes can ne other things. One easy way to figure out if it's the poly switch is to take a short lead of wire and connect it across the 2 leads coming from the disc...effectively, taking it out of the loop. Try that. Also, is it cutting out at higher volumes or at any range?

    The tweeter are disconnected at regular volume levels.
    According to your description it's look like I don't have a Polly switch in my crossover.

    Thanks shaike
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  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited January 2008
    Poly switches look like a tiny capacitor and is usually blue, yellow, or brown. There are diagrams here: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=38755
    This one is probably yours: http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=18776&d=1155784729
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
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