indented tweeters on Monitor 11s
Road Runner
Posts: 106
I just bought these speakers for $149:
http://fortlauderdale.craigslist.org/ele/527213979.html
The tweeters on both of them are indented although the guy who sold them to me said that they still sound good. I'm wondering if I can push the domes out from the inside after taking them out, or do I have to buy new tweeters?
http://fortlauderdale.craigslist.org/ele/527213979.html
The tweeters on both of them are indented although the guy who sold them to me said that they still sound good. I'm wondering if I can push the domes out from the inside after taking them out, or do I have to buy new tweeters?
Post edited by Road Runner on
Comments
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YOu have monitor 10, not 11.
leave them along and enjoy them, you cannot push them out from the inside. At best you might be able to work the dent out by lightly pushing around the edges of the dent and work it out, maybe.
Polk sells a replacement if you want to go that route, but they are 48 bucks each.Dodd - Battery Preamp
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leave them along and enjoy them
Do you think the dent makes much difference for the sound? Also, what's your take on the price? I seemed like a good deal to me, but I'm new to buying used speakers. -
Road Runner wrote: »Do you think the dent makes much difference for the sound? Also, what's your take on the price? I seemed like a good deal to me, but I'm new to buying used speakers.
The price is not bad, but not great considering the tweeters are indented. Those look to be the soft dome sl2000 tweeters. If you are so inclined, you can try sucking them out with your mouth. If that doesn't work I have heard of people using vacuums, but you run a very good risk of destroying your tweeters! You must provide a bypass for the vacuum suction otherwise you will pull the domes right off the tweeters. Personally, I would NOT try the vacuum approach.
I cannot personally comment on the sound of indented tweeters because I have never had the pleasure of listening to them, but I would imagine that depending on the severity of the indent the sound could be negatively affected.
If you are not happy with the sound Polk sells replacement tweeters that are considered superior to the sl2000s that are called RD0-194 (corrected). If you call Polk Customer Service and tell them what speaker you have and that you are a member of Club Polk you can get the replacement tweeters for $48 each and free 2 day shipping.
I have a pair of these myself and they are nice speakers (Yes, they are Monitor 10s, probably 10Bs, not monitor 11s). What will you be using to drive them? -
I have no idea about the Monitor 10, but I have used the vacuum method before with very good results. According to Polk, big dents will cause problems for sound diffusion patterns. Small dents are not an issue.
If you want to try the vacuum, be very careful and go slowly. Gently ease the vacuum tube closer, but always keep one or two fingers between the edge of the tube and the hard surround next to the tweeter to control the approach. It will either work straight away, or probably not at all. When it doesn't work, the dent will disappear, but come right back once you remove the vacuum. In that case, you can get ready for a replacement (personally, I think it's worth $50).
Oh! Where are my manners?! Welcome to Club Polk!Alea jacta est! -
I've had the tweeters apart before. Unscrew the 4 small star-screws, and lift the black mounting plate straight up. It takes the tweeter dome and voice coil with it, out from the magnet. Then you can (very gently) press the dome back out from the inside. If memory serves, they go back together just as easily.Polk SDA SRS 2
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nms stated in post 4 that the replacement tweeters are RD0198-1 that is incorrect as those replace the "TL" series Polks which originally use the sl2500 and sl3000 tweeter.
The proper model # for the replacement tweeter in your model which uses the sl2000 as the original tweeter is the RD0194-1.
You could try some scotch tape looped around your 1st 2 fingers lightly pressing it against the dome.
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Thanks H9, I fixed it. I don't know what I was thinking when I typed that. Good catch
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I used a styrofoam(SP?) cup that I cut a whole in the bottom of. I used a hand vacuum on the back of the cup to pull the dome back up. Try it real slowly at first and add just enough suction to pop it up. It wasn't perfect after but it worked until I replaced the tweeters with the new silk domes.
I never thought of tape. Good idea H9. -
Just wrap your lips around the dome and suck lightly.....works great on silk domes, I can't see why it wound't work with plastic domes. The entire project should take about 3 seconds, but you will look a little peculiar kissing your speakers. Remember, no tongue! Project will take 10 minutes if you want to remove the tweeters before sucking. You can control the suction way more than the vacuum method. I have at least one pr of SL2000's available for sale if you don't want to upgrade the tweeters.
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What will you be using to drive them?
I have an old Yamaha reciever that I was using with what I'm pretty sure is a pair of Monitor 4As and it's a pretty good match between receiver and speakers. I may have to get something more powerful for these new ones though.
I tried sucking out the domes with my mouth and that helped a little bit, but they're still partially indented. The scotch tape method didn't do anything. I'll try the vacuum cleaner thing next and then taking them out and seeing if I can push them out. -
Project will take 10 minutes if you want to remove the tweeters before sucking.
So you're saying unscrew them first and then do the same sucking procedure except just with the tweeter assembly? -
The best way to pull out a dented cap is to use single coated foam tape which is generally used for sealing around doors and windows. The foam tape has a high tack adhesive that will hold the cap well enough to pull it out but will release without damage once cap is back in place. Also because the foam tape is thick it will conform to the irregular shape of the dented cap thus giving better initial hold. Forget the vacuum!!
I know this for two reasons, I worked for a company who manufactures pressure sensitive tapes and had to do this exact thing for I dented a cap while removing a driver while in the process of pulling my cross-overs!! -
I have at least one pr of SL2000's available for sale if you don't want to upgrade the tweeters.
Are they in good shape? How much do you want for them? -
I haven't read all response but can comment on the problem.
Do not try to work out the dent by using your fingers. Chances are you'll just make it bigger. The dent does affect dispersion, but overall, they'll still work. Don't take the tweeter out since you won't be able to push it back from the inside. Tweeters are sealed drivers.
Your best bet is to use clear or scotch tape to pull it back in shape. Packing tape is too strong, be warned. Very carefully rub the tape onto the dented portion and start pulling. Lather rinse repeat until she's back in action.
edit: keep working the tape. -
Road Runner, I just PM'd you
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I think masking tape works better than scotch tape. Masking tape is made to release with no residue, but is sticky enough to grab.
Don't try to get it all at once... don't press hard... just very lightly press a little bit of tape to the dome and gently pull.
If you take your time I bet you can get it.
I used to have a pair of Monitor 7Cs with the clear dome. I had one dented... once. Yes, the child still lives... but he doesn't get near tweeters anymore. -
Lather rinse repeat until she's back in action.....keep working the tape.
I kept on doing that with scotch tape but I almost pulled off the dome. It was just attached by the two things on either side. It will very briefly go back into shape, but I still get three dents on the surface. -
I don't like the tape method myself, because it seems to either stick too much or not at all, and sometimes leaves a residue and/or spoils the finish. The kissing method sounds promising, but the disadvantage when compared to the vacuum method is that you can't see what is actually going on. When I use the vacuum method, I watch carefully as I bring the vacuum closer so that I can tell when the dome starts to pull out and so that I know when to stop. Also, if you use the kissing method, there is no guarantee that a You Tube sniper won't get you and it'll be all over the web in no time!
I've also had success pushing some domes out gently from behind, when dismantled, using a Q-tip very carefully (to avoid even small amounts of finger "grease", for want of a better word).
Of course, I've only had to help out with this issue once or twice, so I'm no expert. I would guess that it is probably not possible in most cases to avoid at least a small mark where the dent once was.Alea jacta est! -
What is the dome made of? Does it look like fabric, metal, or plastic/rubber?
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What is the dome made of? Does it look like fabric, metal, or plastic/rubber?
Mine are made of clear plastic. I may have to get new ones now because I think I damaged one of them. When I pull with the tape it actually separates from the rest of the assembly but it's still attached by the two small copper wires on the side. -
Just wrap your lips around the dome and suck lightly......
Man if I only new ya better:D
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Sorry I could not resist:p
I have used the vacuum, and worked fine for woofers. Try the tape first on the tweeters. The SL2000's has a rather thin dome, but may be stiff due to age.
Don't unscrew the dome most tweeters are ferofluild cooled.
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Thanks
Ben -
Don't unscrew the dome most tweeters are ferofluild cooled.
I may have to if I want to replace it with a new one. There a group of four screws directly around the driver and then there's another groups of four screws around the outside. I assume I have to unscrew the whole thing to change it, or you may be talking about something else. -
Road Runner wrote: »I may have to if I want to replace it with a new one. There a group of four screws directly around the driver and then there's another groups of four screws around the outside. I assume I have to unscrew the whole thing to change it, or you may be talking about something else.
No, the 4 outer screws removed the tweeter assembly from the speaker body - you do not need to remove the inner screws to remove the tweeter.