Need help on Banana Plugs
Atrocity
Posts: 20
I have a question about using banana plugs. I'm getting the Onkyo TX-SR705 receiver. And thinking of picking up the Emotiva LPA-1 amp. I'm new to HT and using an external amp. I'm a bit confused on the wiring that would need to take place. Basically its from the Onkyo's preouts to the Emotiva amp. All speakers would need to be plugged into the Emotiva amp and not to the receiver itself, correct? So can I use banana plugs from the Emotiva to the speakers. I read the manuals of CSi5, FXi3's, and the RTi10's and it says to use banana plugs I need to carefully pry out the binding post plugs. I can not find a rear view of the Emotiva amp so I don't know for use if banana plugs can be used with it. As for the number of banana plugs needed if I can use them on the Emotiva I would need 2 plugs for each speaker for a total of 10 banana plugs. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Post edited by Atrocity on
Comments
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I'd be very surprised if the amp doesn't accommodate banana pins. If it doesn't, for some reason, use spades.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I'd be very surprised if the amp doesn't accommodate banana pins. If it doesn't, for some reason, use spades.
I am pretty sure that almost any decent amp accommodates either bananas or spades, and it the amp you are looking at doesn't, it isn't decent. -
For some reason I just can't find a rear picture of the Emotiva. I'm going to search some more for a picture or just email them for confirmation.
Am I write about how it all needs to connected? Onkyo preouts > Emotiva amp > Speakers. -
the LPA has 5 way binding post that easily accomodates bannana plugs, as for the number you need 20 total for a 5 speaker setup, 2 for each amp side(+/-) side and 2(+/-) for each speaker side
as for the plugs,try these, never come off and very well built
http://www.speakerrepair.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=locking -
Bananas should work fine, almost all high end equipment accommodates them.
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Bananas should work fine, almost all high end equipment accommodates them.
I like the way those cables look on that Z Cables site. -
Atrocity try this:
http://http://www.emotiva.com/expandedpages/lpa1expanded.html
It shows the front and rear of the LPA1 very good. They are out of stock right now, and there may be a price increase or at least an end to the year end sale price coming, but you can still lock in the sale price if you order soon. -
Atrocity try this:
http://http://www.emotiva.com/expandedpages/lpa1expanded.html
It shows the front and rear of the LPA1 very good. They are out of stock right now, and there may be a price increase or at least an end to the year end sale price coming, but you can still lock in the sale price if you order soon.
Thanks for the pics. Just what I needed but now I'm confused. From the Onkyo's preouts to the amp would go on the top row or bottom row? I'm thinking Onkyo> Emotiva bottom row> Top row plugs to speakers. But I could be wrong and I think I am. -
top row to onkyo, bottom row to speakers. Top row is RCA plugs to preamp outs on Onkyo.
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I'm sure this is a dumb question, but what's the best way to pry the plugs out of the binding posts? I tried pulling one out of my RT3000s and I'm afraid I'm going to damage the binding post.Emotiva LMC pre/pro
Emotiva LPA amp
Fronts LSI15
Center LSIC
Rears LSI7s
Dual MFW-15s
Oppo 980H
Signal Analog II ICs
Signal Ultra speaker cables -
mhartman29 wrote: »I'm sure this is a dumb question, but what's the best way to pry the plugs out of the binding posts? I tried pulling one out of my RT3000s and I'm afraid I'm going to damage the binding post.
That was my next question. The word "pry" when dealing with these speakers has a bit hesitant. Anybody know if this easy to achieve?
Also does anyone know where I can find a diagram of how the wiring is done from the receivers preouts to a 5 channel amp? -
Are you going to be running: 5 - 6 - or 7 ch?
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I may be wrong but I think with the LPA1 you could run: the mains (R&L), center, and L&R surrounds through ch 1-5. Or run that set up with ch 6&7 on the LPA1 bridged and run a rear (6.1) @ 125W or run the first set up (ch 1-5) with 6&7 unbridged for a 7.1 setup with the R&L rear surrounds on ch 6&7 @ 50W each.
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That was my next question. The word "pry" when dealing with these speakers has a bit hesitant. Anybody know if this easy to achieve?
Also does anyone know where I can find a diagram of how the wiring is done from the receivers preouts to a 5 channel amp?
Banana plugs should pull out fairly easily. There should be no need to "pry" them out unless the plugs were the wrong size for the speakers, or maybe have become corroded in there???
As to a diagram, I think you're making this more confusing than it needs to be. If your receiver has a "pre-out" section, that section will have one RCA connector for each channel. Simply connect an "interconnect" cable from each of those connectors to one of the RCA connectors on your amp.
Your amp then has speaker connectors (5-way binding posts), one for each channel. This is where you run the "speaker cable" to your speakers.Speakers: Polk LSi15
Pre: Adcom GFP-750 with HT Bypass
Amp: Pass Labs X-150
CD/DVD Player: Classe CDP-10
Interconnects: MIT Shortgun S3 Pro XLR
Speaker cables: MIT MH-750 bi-wire
TT:Micro Seiki DD-35
Cartridge:Denon DL-160
Phono Pre:PS Audio GCPH -
He's asking about removing the plastic plugs from the center of the binding posts, not actual banana plugs.
Anyway, just pry them out with a very small screwdriver or needle nose pliers. You're not going to damage the posts.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Thanks everybody for the replies. Sorry for the confusion. I got confused when someone said I needed 20 cables. So now I need to look for the interconnect cable that will go from the receivers preouts to the amp and then the speaker cables. 1 interconnect cable and 10 banana plugs.
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Thanks everybody for the replies. Sorry for the confusion. I got confused when someone said I needed 20 cables. So now I need to look for the interconnect cable that will go from the receivers preouts to the amp and then the speaker cables. 1 interconnect cable and 10 banana plugs.
Not quite - you need 5 interconnect cables or 2 1/2 pairs. You need 1 interconnect per preout for each channel to the amp.
I have the LPA1 - do the following
you need 1 cable for each of the following preouts from the onkyo
front R - 1 cable to #1 channel on amp (speaker cables below to your R speaker)
front L - 1 cable to #2 channel on amp (speaker cables below to your L speaker)
center - 1 cable to #3 channel on amp (speaker cables below to your center channel speaker)
Follow the same pattern for your surrounds. -
Good luck - if it gets really painful PM me and I give you my number to call if ya need.
JeffTV...............Hitachi 42hdS52a plasma (sexy one with the swival)
Pre/Processor - Emotiva MMC
Seven Ch AMP - Emotiva LPA
Fronts - Tyler Acoustics 7U's
Center - Polk LSIC
Sub - DSWPRO600
DAC - Music Hall 25.3CD - Marantz cc4001
Blue Ray - PS3
Speaker cables - Audioquest cv4 dbs
Interconnects - MIT AVT1's
Power Filter....Monster HTS 3500 MKII -
mhartman29 wrote: »I'm sure this is a dumb question, but what's the best way to pry the plugs out of the binding posts? I tried pulling one out of my RT3000s and I'm afraid I'm going to damage the binding post.
Check to see if you have locking bananas. Turn the banana plug housing to the left, and it will release if you have lockings. When the plugs are turned clockwise the banana exands to hold it inside the 5 way binding post.
I prefer spades. They make better contact and are less likely to pull out from the amp or speaker selector. With heavier cables, the bananas tend to work themselves loose on my setup.[ -
Once again.....
He's asking about removing the plastic plugs from the center of the binding posts, not actual banana plugs.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Once again.....
He's asking about removing the plastic plugs from the center of the binding posts, not actual banana plugs.
thanks F1. I saw that after I posted. I hadn't read all the posts prior to the clarification on the red and black plastic center pieces. Have a great evening.[ -
Yea, if I'm not mistaken don't you just unscrew the posts all the way and that center piece should just fall out. I would also just use the raw wire if all possible, unless the amp or receiver end is bi-wired then it will be too thick to fit in the LPA-1 post. I had to get bananas for the center and the mains. I have the same set up, and it's pretty quick to get everything connected, the only thing that sucks is the 705's 12V trigger only works on zone 2.
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Vonnie, just trying to keep things on track.
MJW, these days there's not many, if any, OEM binding posts that unscrew all the way. Safety issues, ya know. The plastic plugs pop out easily enough. Bare wire oxidizes and is old school thinking, IMO. Soldered bananas are much better all around.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
That was my next question. The word "pry" when dealing with these speakers has a bit hesitant. Anybody know if this easy to achieve?
Also does anyone know where I can find a diagram of how the wiring is done from the receivers preouts to a 5 channel amp?
Emotiva has the lpa-1 instructions on line it shows how to do this.
click here for the lpa-1 instructions online
I just hooked mine up yesterday and it works nice.
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mjwilliams45 wrote: »Yea, if I'm not mistaken don't you just unscrew the posts all the way and that center piece should just fall out. I would also just use the raw wire if all possible, unless the amp or receiver end is bi-wired then it will be too thick to fit in the LPA-1 post. I had to get bananas for the center and the mains. I have the same set up, and it's pretty quick to get everything connected, the only thing that sucks is the 705's 12V trigger only works on zone 2.
This Zone 2 issue, is this something I need to be concerned about?Emotiva has the lpa-1 instructions on line it shows how to do this.
I just hooked mine up yesterday and it works nice.
WOW! The amp is bigger than it look in pictures I saw on their site. Again, thanks for the instructions. -
I think you may need a little more room to breath there. You might also want to put some spacers under the amp for better air circulation, move it away from the wall, and move the remove the PrePro from the top of it.
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
I think you may need a little more room to breath there. You might also want to put some spacers under the amp for better air circulation, move it away from the wall, and move the remove the PrePro from the top of it.
Ben
Why? I have run the amp for a few days now and it doesn't even get get warm. Do you know anything about the emotiva lpa-1?
Read this link if you want to know more, "It runs cool so you can stack the LMC-1 processor or your existing processor or receiver directly on top." -
WOW! The amp is bigger than it look in pictures I saw on their site. Again, thanks for the instructions.
Wait until you try to pick it up. It weighs more than my 5 y.o. daughter, I had to reinforce the shelf in my closet to accommodate it. -
banana plugs
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Thanks everybody for the replies. Sorry for the confusion. I got confused when someone said I needed 20 cables. So now I need to look for the interconnect cable that will go from the receivers preouts to the amp and then the speaker cables. 1 interconnect cable and 10 banana plugs.
You don't need 20 separate cables, but as was stated, you will need 20 banana plugs for the five speakers because you will have a black and a red just like with any conventional setup. So, the center channel will have a black and a red going into the amp and a black and red connecting to the speaker for a total of four plugs to set up the one speaker. Same with the right side, the left side, and the two rears. Does that make sense?Gregory
Power Amp: Emotiva XPA-3
Fronts: PolkAudio RTi A9 Canare 4S11/Vampire Wire B12
Center: PolkAudio CSi A6 Canare 4S11/Vampire Wire B12
Surrounds: PolkAudio FXi A6
Rear: Polk Audio RTi A3
Sub: PolkAudio DSW Pro 500 -
GregoryOrme wrote: »You don't need 20 separate cables, but as was stated, you will need 20 banana plugs for the five speakers because you will have a black and a red just like with any conventional setup. So, the center channel will have a black and a red going into the amp and a black and red connecting to the speaker for a total of four plugs to set up the one speaker. Same with the right side, the left side, and the two rears. Does that make sense?
This thread is over a year old, I hope he's got the darned thing hooked up already! :eek:
Can you picture him sitting on the floor, a pile of nanners and a coil of wires heaped in front of him, saying "curse you Club Polk, you guys said this would be easy!!!""Don't forget to change your politician. They are like diapers they need to be changed regularly, and for the same reason."