Info on orig. SRS, 1.2, 1.2TL? Differences?

tubino
tubino Posts: 39
edited February 2008 in Vintage Speakers
I'd love to read what the differences are. Can anyone direct me to a document?

This isn't just curiosity. I'm weighing purchase of a pair of original SRS!
Post edited by tubino on
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Comments

  • woofiepaws
    woofiepaws Posts: 215
    edited December 2007
    Check out the Search function here on the Forum. You'll learn tons. I know I did, and still do.

    And, Welcome!
  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited December 2007
    You might find something using search; There are differences in crossovers, drivers and cabinets, so there is difference in the sound. The 1.2 TL's being "the best", though as with everything, some people like tyhe SRS's better.
    The SRS's have the SL2000 tweeters, that you would want to change for the new silk replacements. That's $500 right there.

    $1,500? Thy would have to be in absolutely perfect condition. I would offer less.
    _________________________________________________
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  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited December 2007
    Ricardo wrote: »
    The SRS's have the SL2000 tweeters, that you would want to change for the new silk replacements. That's $500 right there.

    $1,500? Thy would have to be in absolutely perfect condition. I would offer less.

    THANKS! I am using the search function, but can't seem to hone in on what I'm looking for. Will continue though.

    Very interesting about the tweeters. Are these silk tweeters readily available?
  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited December 2007
    Seller claims they are in top condition. I was planning to take along my laptop and Woofer Tester 3, which plots an impedance graph for ya in about 2 seconds.
  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited December 2007
    tubino wrote: »
    THANKS! I am using the search function, but can't seem to hone in on what I'm looking for. Will continue though.

    Very interesting about the tweeters. Are these silk tweeters readily available?

    Yes, Polk sells them.
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

    2008 & 2010 Football Pool WINNER
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    Thank God for different opinions. Imagine the world if we all wanted the same woman
  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited December 2007
    Thanks for the help, guys! So when I check these out, are there particular things I should look for? Are some of the drivers susceptible to foam rot, for example?

    And do you SRS guys put these against the wall, or pull out like usual speakers for better soundstaging?
  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited December 2007
    Lasareath wrote: »
    If they are indeed in mint condition then I would say you should buy them. These are rare speakers ...

    It might wind up being all your fault, you know! :)

    Did you know that anyone googling SRS speakers WILL find your site, without a doubt? GREAT JOB restoring those speakers, BTW!
  • shadowofnight
    shadowofnight Posts: 2,735
    edited December 2007
    I owned a pair 1.2tl's when they were new...had them maybe 5 years and sold them ( Kicks self in ****...I was young ) ...but I recently picked up a mint pair of SRS's and after I did the crossover upgrades I am not missing my tl's one bit...these really sound good. If they are in great shape ...grab them.
    The first rule of Fight Club is you don't talk about Fight Club
  • shadowofnight
    shadowofnight Posts: 2,735
    edited December 2007
    tubino wrote: »
    Thanks for the help, guys! So when I check these out, are there particular things I should look for? Are some of the drivers susceptible to foam rot, for example?

    And do you SRS guys put these against the wall, or pull out like usual speakers for better soundstaging?

    No foam...all rubber surrounds
    The first rule of Fight Club is you don't talk about Fight Club
  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited December 2007
    I owned a pair 1.2tl's when they were new...had them maybe 5 years and sold them ( Kicks self in ****...I was young ) ...but I recently picked up a mint pair of SRS's and after I did the crossover upgrades I am not missing my tl's one bit...these really sound good. If they are in great shape ...grab them.

    These crossover upgrades... is it mostly a matter of using higher quality capacitors, same values? I'm not usually so 'needy' about information (I'm usually more patient about scouring archives instead of asking for it), but because I'm in this town such a short time, I'm going to have to make a snap decision, very soon, for a good chunk o' change... so help is greatly appreciated!
  • shadowofnight
    shadowofnight Posts: 2,735
    edited December 2007
    tubino wrote: »
    These crossover upgrades... is it mostly a matter of using higher quality capacitors, same values? I'm not usually so 'needy' about information (I'm usually more patient about scouring archives instead of asking for it), but because I'm in this town such a short time, I'm going to have to make a snap decision, very soon, for a good chunk o' change... so help is greatly appreciated!

    Same values...better quality...especially since the electrolytics are so old...worth the money fo sho
    The first rule of Fight Club is you don't talk about Fight Club
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited December 2007
    Lasareath wrote: »
    That is exactly correct. Or least we try to get the same values. There are a couple of items that have been removed and some people claim that this improves the sound.



    ^^^what he said^^^^,and be sure to call Jeff @ sonicraft.;)
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • cambir
    cambir Posts: 1,046
    edited December 2007
    I've never owned anything close, but there might be some helpful info here:
    http://www.polksda.com/
  • I-SIG
    I-SIG Posts: 2,243
    edited December 2007
    The thing about the SRS's is that you MUST use common ground amps or amps that can be made common ground, i.e. strapped JC-1 mono's. That's the only thing I hate about my SRS's is the limited choices on amps. I'd love to try the ICEpower units or the big damn MF integrateds that F1 and Hearing are running.

    Wes
    Link: http://polkarmy.com/forums

    Sony 75" Bravia 4K | Polk Audio SDA-SRS's (w/RDO's & Vampire Posts) + SVS PC+ 25-31 | AudioQuest Granite (mids) + BWA Silver (highs) | Cary Audio CAD-200 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Rotel Michi P5 | Signal Cable Silver Resolution XLR's | Cambridge Audio azur 840C--Wadia 170i + iPod jammed w/ lossless audio--Oppo 970 | Pure|AV PF31d
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited December 2007
    Just buy or build an AI-I interface cable and plunge right into the world of non-common ground amps.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited December 2007
    I don't think you can use the interface for non-common ground amps with the original SRS's; at least not the "stock" one.
    _________________________________________________
    ***\\\\\........................... My Audio Journey ............................./////***

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  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited December 2007
    You can't. My mind thinks of the 1.2 and 1.2TL's as SRS's also.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited December 2007
    I think every amplification option I own is common ground. But now that I am going to be parking these things in my house (and they are NOT the largest speakers I own, by a LONG shot!), I'm wondering how much power these things really want and need? Will 30 class A (SE 845) watts do it? 60 PP tube watts? After that, I haven't got much in the way of QUALITY... Anyone using tubes with these? Are they around 91db/1w/1m?
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited December 2007
    Original SRS Specifications:

    Driver Complement: Four 1 inch SL2000 silver coil dome tweeters
    Eight 6-1/2 inch trilaminate polymer bassmidrange drivers
    One 15 inch fluid-coupled subwoofer

    Size (inches): 63-1/2H x 21W x 13D

    Weight Per Cabinet: 182 pounds

    Frequency Response: 10 Hz to 26,000 Hz

    Recommended Amplification: 10-1000 watts/channel

    Crossover Frequency: 45 Hz and 2000 Hz

    Nominal Impedance: 4 ohms

    Maximum Output Level:125 dB

    Efficiency: 93 dB

    1985 MSRP: $1295 each (equivalent to $2515 each in 2007 dollars)


    Here is a thread you may find useful: Differences in SRS models

    There are others also.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited December 2007
    Frequency Response: 10 Hz to 26,000 Hz
    Recommended Amplification: 10-1000 watts/channel
    Maximum Output Level:125 dB
    Efficiency: 93 dB

    Frequency response of TEN hertz??? WTF? How many db down at, say, 20?
    125 db output??? That gives my Tannoy DMT 15's a run.
    Efficiency 93, impedance always over 4 by my measurements... rated min power is 10 watts... These might work GREAT with an SE 845 amp.

    I'm not sure if these will be my all-time favorite speakers (I'm coming from a very different sound, with Tannoy dual concentric point source...), but one thing is for sure: these Polks sure draw a friendly generous bunch. Thanks for all this help, guys!
  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited December 2007
    I like the SRS model more than the TL Models with some modification. I know I may get blasted for that comment, but I like the 4 ohms, and 93db efficiency. If you own speakers of this magnitude you need good amplification. With 4ohms instead of 6ohms, and a 2db of efficiency over the TL's you just basically added 50% to your amps power for free.
    I know this isn't a huge difference, but a lot of people like to get some serious DB every once in a while.
    One of the advantages of the TL versions is a simpler XO in the dimensional department. The SRS uses very large caps in the Interconnect department (260uf) not cheap with aftermarket caps. IF you do the XO upgrade (I highly recommend you read up on it) at least use new cheap caps for the 260uf's.
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited December 2007
    tubino wrote: »
    Frequency response of TEN hertz??? WTF? How many db down at, say, 20?

    I have never seen the -3 dB limits for the SRS published in any of Polk's sales literature or in the SRS manual. Stereo Review measured the SRS during a detailed review and said: "The composite frequency response was flat within +/- 4.5 dB from 20 to 20,000 Hz.". A copy of this review is posted at the www.polksda.com website.

    The -3 dB limits for the SRS 1.2 were 27 and 20,000 Hz. The -3 dB limits for the SRS 1.2TL were 27 and 25,000 Hz.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited December 2007
    Lasareath wrote: »
    Post some pics of your gear, we love to see other people's gear.

    My 1.2tl's with 600watts per channel move my internal organs.
    l

    These cabinets with Tannoy Monitor Gold 15s will produce 100db+ of clean music, on a few watts, and the drivers display almost ZERO cone excursion even at 110db:
    28221349-M.jpg

    The backloaded horn loads the driver so effectively that it is loafing along at 110db. Excursion is sometimes presented as a positive thing, as if more is better. It's okay if the driver can do it, but actually doing it always means more distortion, so it's even better if the driver NEVER has to have much excursion to produce SPL's. I'm not afraid to make cones move generally, but the honest truth is that I believe I would probably damage household items if I ever cranked it to that point with Tannoy 3833 drivers in those cabinets. I got crazy (120db) loud with them, and STILL the cones barely moved.

    I'll do more in a self-introduction thread.
  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited January 2008
    Ricardo wrote: »
    I don't think you can use the interface for non-common ground amps with the original SRS's; at least not the "stock" one.

    Okay, now I own a pair of original SRS, and want to use them with non-common ground amps. The speakers have the original cable, with a pin/blade connector. I see the AI-1 cable instructions, and am able to make it... but will it work? I'm still looking for info on common ground vs non-comm ground, links much appreciated.
  • danger boy
    danger boy Posts: 15,722
    edited January 2008
    tubino, what amp are you looking to use with the SRS's? if they are original SRS"s then they would have the blade/blade connector. which i'm pretty sure you can't use the AI-1 cable with .
    PolkFest 2012, who's going>?
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  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited January 2008
    Hi, thanks for the reply. I was going to use a pair of mono tube amps, but will just hook up a good solid state with common ground. If the snow doesn't get too deep, it might be this weekend... I left the speakers at a friend's house! You don't move them on a whim.

    Yes, these have the blade/pin type connection.
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,734
    edited January 2008
    If you have a pin/blade cable and socket, you don't have the original SRS's.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited January 2008
    F1nut wrote: »
    If you have a pin/blade cable and socket, you don't have the original SRS's.

    Well, as I've demonstrated here repeatedly, I don't know diddly about Polks. But all help is appreciated! Can you tell what I have from this (serial number legible):

    249553195-X3.jpg

    Or maybe this helps:

    245771547-L.jpg

    Full frontal assault:

    245771242-L-1.jpg
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,734
    edited January 2008
    Always glad to help. You have the blade/blade cable as indicated by the interconnect cable diagram on the label, therefore you do have the SRS's. No mono block, dual mono or non-common ground amps for you.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • tubino
    tubino Posts: 39
    edited January 2008
    F1nut wrote: »
    Always glad to help. You have the blade/blade cable as indicated by the interconnect cable diagram on the label, therefore you do have the SRS's. No mono block, dual mono or non-common ground amps for you.

    But but but.... true, the diagram shows two flat or rectangular-looking slots, but the reality is that the male ends of the connecting wire include a perfectly tubular pin and a flat one. Go figure. Too bad I didn't take a picture, and the units are 15 miles away from me.

    But what is different here to prevent use of an isolating transformer... ?

    Oh well, I'll just try them out with an ordinary amp and the stock cable.

    Thanks for your help!