Chalk up another entry in the Book of Stupid Moves to me

Face

Very good explanation. And I'm surprised Ford didn't do the same as GM and cut boost in P, N, and R. I hope I didn't come off to brash.

I had a crash course in GM PCM's after I melted 3 pistons in my supercharged Buick Regal. Too much heat(no I/C was avail yet), too much boost, and too little fuel=3 melted ring lands. It ran a 13.52 @ 100.36 with a 1.98 60' with 1.5 less PSI, I wish I would have made it to the track before the meltdown.

Jstas

After talking with Jim at JDM when he was doing my dyno runs and gabbing with the SVT engineers at various SVTOA events (even got to talk to Coletti a ton), Ford' engine management doesn't look like alot but it is rather robust in the ability it has to keep things running smooth. Besides, the intercooler system is pretty stout too. They did alot of work in buttoning it down and it shows. I was told that there was no reason not to expect the truck to last as long as a regular F-150 would.

They are honestly way over-built. The 4R100 transmission is a heavy pig, tipping the scales at almost 300 pounds I think it was but it's the trans they use behind the gas engines Super Duties so it will handle the torque and 3 times as much weight. The rear is out of a Super Duty too and with something like a 9.8 inch ring gear I think it is, it's also pretty stout. I know a few guys running 700-800 horses on the stock block and that is near bleeding-edge of what the engines can handle.

The A/F is rich. It runs like 11.5:1 or 12:1 and under full throttle on a cold day it'll dip down into the 10:1 range. But the thing is that from the factory, the map is flat as a board and maintains the ratio within like .2 points +/-. JDM gets a ton of power by just leaning it out to 13:1 range. It's still a fairly safe tune but you can pick up 50-70 horses by just flattening the curve a bit and taking some fuel out. But because of that, if you don't build boost with such a fat tune, you run the risk of being super rich and washing the cylinders down or causing excessive carbon build up and then you get problems like detonation. In a boosted engine that costs over 8 grand, you don't want to be popping them like corks 'cause you cut boost and made the A/F something like 6:1.

hearingimpared

Dude you need to lock yourself in your room for a while. It sounds like you are reving up for a big fall! I think you should wear 10 heads of garlic and 20 Italian long hot peppers strung together around your neck and bath in a solution of garlic infused vinegar.

Then walk around your bedroom ten times humming kumbya . . . that should end the curse!

I-SIG

shadowofnight wrote: »

P.S. The other thing I cannot believe other states get away with is the riveted/screwed through the sheetmetal dealer advertisement logo ???? ( Maybe they are stuck on now...but I have seen many like this ) I would order a car and tell the dealership if you drill my sheetmetal and put your stupid logo on it you can keep the car. Here all they do is put a plastic license frame with their name on it...easily ripped off in 3 seconds leaving no trace it was ever there. I just shake my head when I see out of state cars like that...cant believe its accepted anywhere...

Ah...a man after my own heart.

If my truck had one of those, I was going to tell the guy doing the paperwork either I get another $1500-2000 knocked off for an "advertising fee" or they can take it off and we'll finish the paperwork as is.

Wes

Face

I also would have refused the car if they "riveted" the logo on it. I purchased my Regal GS brand new in 99. I told the dealer, if you drill holes for a front plate or put a dealer badge/logo on it, I'm not taking it. They complied.