Reminder. Energy savings FYI.
treitz3
Posts: 18,992
One of the best ways I have found to save money, other than concentrating on ordering 3 dollar meals -vs- 14 dollar meals is this.
Read on, it'll get you more gear.
Go thru your entire house and take a look at the tops of the trim above all doors where it meets the wall. Is it caulked or "breathable"? If not, caulk it. Even in closets and laundry room facilities, and especially at doors leading to the exterior. Take all wallplates off throughout the house without exception and caulk the area between the outlet housing and the sheetrock or applicable substrate to where it is completely sealed. Go get universal gaskets for the light switches and outlets [Red Dot S620E for example] and install them after the caulk dries to form a complete seal. For all unused outlets throughout the house, install a safety plug as if you had a baby running around the house with a pair of scissors. This will complete the seal at all outlets and light switches. Just be sure to leave one safety plug off every 25 feet or so for ease of plugging in the vacuum cleaner. "Splurge" on those.
Next, remove all heating and A/C vents and filters. See a gap between the sheetrock or applicable substrate? You guessed it, seal it up. why would you want to suck hot air out of the attic while you are trying to cool the house? Vise versa during the winter. Check the area around the exhaust fans in the bathrooms as well. Also, unless a member of your family has sensitive allergies, instead of replacing the filter every month or so, go get a reusable filter. You can customize the size to your individual needs and they will last a lifetime. If you rinse these and let dry every three weeks, you will put less strain on your unit too, saving $$$ in the long run.
Check all doors and make sure no air can come or go around the threshold area of the door, then check to make sure that the kerf is in good shape and sealed correctly. A good test would be to light a match during a windy day, set the match near all possible air leaks around the door, if the smoke moves direction..........you figure it out.
Finally, depending on how often you open your windows you may want to entertain the thought of a window insulation kit. Even if you have "energy efficient " windows. For real cheap, you can install this and you will not be able to tell any difference looking out or in [Frost King has a 3pk. kit #V73/3 for 3 or 4 bucks] and all you need is a hairdryer and razor to install it.
I spent around 93 bucks to do this to my house and it paid for itself in the first month. Electric and gas usage went to half (+-). The conditions within the winter months made us not even use the gas fireplace for the first time during the winter [unless we wanted a romantic setting] and we never pulled out the Kerosene heater. Humidity levels stay constant more, which is good for audio gear and generally we are just plain more comfortable.
Flush your water heater on a regular schedule and insulate it and all piping if it is outside in a shed. Make sure that toilets, showers........well (all) plumbing fixtures do not leak.
Add all this to the "change jar" and I have been able to save a shitload of cashola without changing the lifestyle I have grown accustomed to living.
Read on, it'll get you more gear.
Go thru your entire house and take a look at the tops of the trim above all doors where it meets the wall. Is it caulked or "breathable"? If not, caulk it. Even in closets and laundry room facilities, and especially at doors leading to the exterior. Take all wallplates off throughout the house without exception and caulk the area between the outlet housing and the sheetrock or applicable substrate to where it is completely sealed. Go get universal gaskets for the light switches and outlets [Red Dot S620E for example] and install them after the caulk dries to form a complete seal. For all unused outlets throughout the house, install a safety plug as if you had a baby running around the house with a pair of scissors. This will complete the seal at all outlets and light switches. Just be sure to leave one safety plug off every 25 feet or so for ease of plugging in the vacuum cleaner. "Splurge" on those.
Next, remove all heating and A/C vents and filters. See a gap between the sheetrock or applicable substrate? You guessed it, seal it up. why would you want to suck hot air out of the attic while you are trying to cool the house? Vise versa during the winter. Check the area around the exhaust fans in the bathrooms as well. Also, unless a member of your family has sensitive allergies, instead of replacing the filter every month or so, go get a reusable filter. You can customize the size to your individual needs and they will last a lifetime. If you rinse these and let dry every three weeks, you will put less strain on your unit too, saving $$$ in the long run.
Check all doors and make sure no air can come or go around the threshold area of the door, then check to make sure that the kerf is in good shape and sealed correctly. A good test would be to light a match during a windy day, set the match near all possible air leaks around the door, if the smoke moves direction..........you figure it out.
Finally, depending on how often you open your windows you may want to entertain the thought of a window insulation kit. Even if you have "energy efficient " windows. For real cheap, you can install this and you will not be able to tell any difference looking out or in [Frost King has a 3pk. kit #V73/3 for 3 or 4 bucks] and all you need is a hairdryer and razor to install it.
I spent around 93 bucks to do this to my house and it paid for itself in the first month. Electric and gas usage went to half (+-). The conditions within the winter months made us not even use the gas fireplace for the first time during the winter [unless we wanted a romantic setting] and we never pulled out the Kerosene heater. Humidity levels stay constant more, which is good for audio gear and generally we are just plain more comfortable.
Flush your water heater on a regular schedule and insulate it and all piping if it is outside in a shed. Make sure that toilets, showers........well (all) plumbing fixtures do not leak.
Add all this to the "change jar" and I have been able to save a shitload of cashola without changing the lifestyle I have grown accustomed to living.
~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
Post edited by treitz3 on
Comments
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I leave the AC off so I can sweat out all my impurities....Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
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a reincarnation of candylliquor35m!!!! blasphemy!
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I'm feeling a slight "deja vu" here.
Seriously, though. I did a lot of those things myself because a lot of these new houses are being skimped on in areas. Every little bit helps.Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?.................................Sinner. -
avguytx,
"Chicks dig me 'cause I rarely wear underwear" -
This is nothing like CL35. It is intended as a helpful post.
If it reminds just one more person of CL35, then this post will be deleted and the mods will be notified by me to [please] delete the thread. Just thought it would be nice to share my experiences.
It has helped me to afford more audio gear.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
I don't see a problem with the info you provided.
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No, its useful information, it just reminded me of CL's post. I dont see this one going in the same direction.Music is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it
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I know I mentioned this in the past but remember to wash your dryer's lint screen. The fabric softners chemicals build up and reduce the air flow. A simple test. Pull it out and run water on it, it will tend to pool rather than flow through. Giver a good wash and it runs through with no issues.
I have noticed even though my house is 1yr the vents sometimes are not tight in the floors meaning I can see behind it a bit. I may this week fix some of that stuff. -
So, so, so sorry for the CL35 memories but in today's economy and tonight's temperatures I figured this might help some folks. Plus I was chatting with another member that could use some of this information tonight, so "BUMP".
Key words out of the entire first post......."I spent around 93 bucks to do this to my house and it paid for itself in the first month. Electric and gas usage went to half (+-).". After all this time, it's still at half give or take.~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~ -
I am thinking of some thick DIY insulated window "curtains". This will help keep the cold out, and improve the sound. I have 3 consecutive windows right behind me with single panes:mad:
Edit: http://www.motherearthnews.com/Green-Homes/1983-11-01/How-to-Make-a-Thermal-Shade.aspx
It uses poly batting which is good for mild room treatments:)Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Home Depot has some sort of pink foam board insulation that comes in various thicknesses that you can cut to size. IIRC they come in 4'x8' sizes and are not to expensive Ben. I have no idea what the technical name for them are though. Is that what you were thinkin' of using?~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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Nice post Tom, and very helpful tips.
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
Home Depot has some sort of pink foam board insulation that comes in various thicknesses that you can cut to size. IIRC they come in 4'x8' sizes and are not to expensive Ben. I have no idea what the technical name for them are though. Is that what you were thinkin' of using?
That's a good idea. I can cut that stuff to size, and add a batting for improving SQ:cool:
Edit: I am running the dryer hose upstairs. It is free heat that would have gone outdoors;) My washer spins stuff real dry to begin with so the humidity is not out of hand.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Another obvious one for anyone who doesn't have them - programmable thermostats. Set them to turn off (well, lower) when you're not home, this can save you a FORTUNE if you're at all forgetful and don't turn them down yourself.
I am very forgetful about this kind of thing, and the first year I installed programmable thermostats I saved over 50% on my heating bill.If you will it, dude, it is no dream. -
That was something that I am actually interested in doing this year. If you don't mind me asking, what brand did you get and would you recommend the model you got [savings aside]?~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
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May I suggest a Honeywell thermostat. Or at least this brand I been most happy with.
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
I have Honeywells as well. There's a bunch of models out there, depending on your price and needs. I just have the lower-priced 5-2 ones (so weekdays and weekends have separate schedules). They have full 7-day programmable ones that cost a bit more, etc.If you will it, dude, it is no dream.
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bobman1235 wrote: »I have Honeywells as well. There's a bunch of models out there, depending on your price and needs. I just have the lower-priced 5-2 ones (so weekdays and weekends have separate schedules). They have full 7-day programmable ones that cost a bit more, etc.
Also on heat / cool type and whether or not a heat pump system.
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
I have a choice of heat pump, or gas. I think that the gas may be more economical than a heat pump at these temps. IDK. Hopefully someone will chime in that lives in this climate.
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
I'm been hearing todays system under 3 years or so not the ones of yesterday can run pretty low in temp that heatpumps save over gas or oil.
Speakers
Carver Amazing Fronts
CS400i Center
RT800i's Rears
Sub Paradigm Servo 15
Electronics
Conrad Johnson PV-5 pre-amp
Parasound Halo A23
Pioneer 84TXSi AVR
Pioneer 79Avi DVD
Sony CX400 CD changer
Panasonic 42-PX60U Plasma
WMC Win7 32bit HD DVR -
I need to just wire it up with a DPDT switch. I can easily change between the two that way;)Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Thanks very much for the advice! I'm gettin' to work!"Wish I didn't know now what I didn't know then." Bob Seger
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I have a choice of heat pump, or gas. I think that the gas may be more economical than a heat pump at these temps. IDK. Hopefully someone will chime in that lives in this climate.
Ben
Ben, do you have a gas furnace, WITH a heat pump system? If so, let me know, I'll tell which t-stat to get.
And no, no need for a DPDT in the circuit. You just need a t-stat with 2 stages of heat. 1 stage can be the gas, then 2nd stage can be the heatpump, IF it ever gets that cold.
Now if you want to get REALLY tricky....we can add a HW coil;-)I refuse to argue with idiots, because people can't tell the DIFFERENCE! -
Some good ideas Tom,, thanks for the post,, especially the one about the A/C vent--gap and the electrical swithces,, it's 21.1 degrees this morning,,south of Hot'lanta,, and given the unpredictability of fuel prices,over the next year or so,this small investment will most likely save in hundreds of dollars. Thanks,, and good to see you posting again.
I guess everyone is going to Brads,and warm themselves by the tubes/valves.JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut) -
On thing I did was this....
Parts list was:
* 2 cans of great stuff (expanding foam)
* one small tube of silicone
* some styrofoam bowls
* about 1/2 hour of time
* 1 assistant
* 1 broom
Tasks to do:- Go into your attic with the great stuff, bowls and silicone.
- Have an assistant (I used my wife, but kids love this kind of stuff) walk into each room tap the ceiling with a broom (so you can hear it in the attic) above each outlet (power or cable), light switch and next to each smoke detector.
- Fill the 1" or so hole in the attic floor above the outlets and light switches with great stuff (expanding foam).
- Above the smoke detectors, put some silicone around the edge of the styrofoam bowl and put it upside down over the smoke detector.
Not sure how much it saved, but it was easy to do and there does seem to be less drafts in the house.....
MichaelMains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
Thanks for the great info and reminding me to winter-proof my home.
If I may add, get a tube of caulk (silicone works fine) and check around any holes on the outside wall of your house. If the whole is considerable larger than the sticking water pipes, cable (TV Anternna, Dish Coax cables), it's time to make sure the whole is neatly filled with silicone or caulk around the area surround these protruding pipes / wires / cables.
It's very important that the cold doesn't sneak into the cold water pipes and crack the solder joints in the copper lines. I end up knocking dry walls a few years back because of that.
Also, get some insulation rubber tube rolls installed in the outside PVC lines that are exposed above ground and all the way to the tabs.Trying out Different Audio Cables is a Religious Affair. You don't discuss it with anyone. :redface::biggrin: -
Add in a vote for tankless water heaters, and if you have nat. gas, see if your supplier has a budget plan. You pay a bit more through the summer months, and build up a large credit that offsets the higher winter bills. We pay around $45/mo.
I know, they are using my money for free, but it beats the hell out of looking at $300 bills throughout the winter.
Front-loading washing machines are good money savers too. Look for ones that spin out at high rpm. They use 1/3 of the water, and ~1/4 of the soap. (with soft water) -
FYI:
Silicone isn't as easy to clean up as caulk in my experience, therefore, I stay with caulk. Great tip Treitz3 on the inside window trim, especially the top side.Review Site_ (((AudioPursuit)))
Founder/Publisher Affordable$$Audio 2006-13.
Former Staff Member TONEAudio
2 Ch. System
Amplifiers: Parasound Halo P6 pre, Vista Audio i34, Peachtree amp500, Adcom GFP-565 GFA-535ii, 545ii, 555ii
Digital: SimAudio HAD230 DAC, iMac 20in/Amarra,
Speakers: Paradigm Performa F75, Magnepan .7, Totem Model 1's, ACI Emerald XL, Celestion Si Stands. Totem Dreamcatcher sub
Analog: Technics SL-J2 w/Pickering 3000D, SimAudio LP5.3 phono pre
Cable/Wires: Cardas, AudioArt, Shunyata Venom 3 -
LessisNevermore wrote: »Add in a vote for tankless water heaters, and if you have nat. gas, see if your supplier has a budget plan. You pay a bit more through the summer months, and build up a large credit that offsets the higher winter bills. We pay around $45/mo.
I know, they are using my money for free, but it beats the hell out of looking at $300 bills throughout the winter.
Front-loading washing machines are good money savers too. Look for ones that spin out at high rpm. They use 1/3 of the water, and ~1/4 of the soap. (with soft water)
My Hot water is gas, and the pilot runs a little high. I just leave it on the off setting(pilot only), and the water is plenty hot for showers, and dishes.
Also the washing machine is a front loader that spins the clothes real nice;)
BenPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
You heat your water with the pilot alone? Holy crap... My pilot wouldn't even keep the burn chamber warm, much less heat 40 gallons of water...Ludicrous gibs!