Speaker gasket tape
MillerLiteScott
Posts: 2,561
What size gasket tape should I order 3/8" or 1/2"?
I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
Post edited by MillerLiteScott on
Comments
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What speaker are you trying to apply it to?Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
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2B's & RTA 11t'sI like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
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I just ordered a roll of 3/8" from PE. I thought about getting the 1/2" for the heck of it but didn't. The outside edge of the MW speakers will work with the 3/8" stuff no problem.Richard? Who's your favorite Little Rascal? Alfalfa? Or is it........................Spanky?.................................Sinner.
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I thought 3/8's was enough and 1/2" would be a little big.I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
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MillerLiteScott wrote: »What size gasket tape should I order 3/8" or 1/2"?
Both, I've used both along with speaker sealer. I got mine from parts express. -
Scott, you don't need that stuff. Believe it or not, the original gaskets do a fine job of sealing.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Scott, you don't need that stuff. Believe it or not, the original gaskets do a fine job of sealing.
:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:p:D -
My PR gaskets were as thin as a piece of paper and had the sealing characteristics of a piece of paper.I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D
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I used a double layer of speaker sealer for my PRs. Those suckers wll never have an air leak. I also used the speaker sealer to close and seal of the bursted seam from the bottom brace to the bottom pedestal right front side of my cabinet. While I pulled the seam apart my wife shoved in the speaker sealer into the seam and then when I released it the seam was sealed shut.
I love that speaker sealer. -
My PR gaskets were as thin as a piece of paper and had the sealing characteristics of a piece of paper.
Yeah, that's the way they are suppose to be. I've removed my PR's a whole lot of times, the gaskets are paper thin, no air leaks, tons of bass.
Not to mention the risk of stripping out the screw holes when using a thick gasket.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
I Dynamated the PR's and mid drivers in all my speakers tonight. So I made sure the gaskets weres placed properly when I put everything back together.
I will give them a listen tomorrow. My wife and I watching a movie right now.I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D -
Yeah, that's the way they are suppose to be. I've removed my PR's a whole lot of times, the gaskets are paper thin, no air leaks, tons of bass.
Not to mention the risk of stripping out the screw holes when using a thick gasket.
Just as an FYI, the speaker sealer flattens out very, very thin and doesn't stress the screw holes like the gasket does. It just spreads and seals. Like I said above, I love that stuff.
Also, I have reused the original speaker gasket and found that works well. -
MillerLiteScott wrote: »I Dynamated the PR's and mid drivers in all my speakers tonight. So I made sure the gaskets weres placed properly when I put everything back together.
I will give them a listen tomorrow. My wife and I watching a movie right now.
I noticed that the mids sounded a bit creamier when I did mine. Also the imaging was more precise and stable. -
hearingimpared wrote: »Just as an FYI, the speaker sealer flattens out very, very thin and doesn't stress the screw holes like the gasket does. It just spreads and seals. Like I said above, I love that stuff.
Also, I have reused the original speaker gasket and found that works well.
Ah, they have something other than that thick sticky stuff, eh?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Joe where did you get the speaker sealer form?
Parts Express?I like speakers that are bigger than a small refrigerator but smaller than a big refrigerator:D -
MillerLiteScott wrote: »Joe where did you get the speaker sealer form?
Parts Express?
Yes sir! -
Can I just ask a question or two. I just finished making two really nice gaskets for my rear Polk Audio Speakers - I retrofitted db650's to a car that is supposed to use db651s. So anyway, I then ground down some screws to get better clearance from the rubber ring on the outside of the speakers so that's done. And I have the connectors. Now when I put the gasket in - should I put the yellow spongy thing in below the gasket or above? And should I use some Loctite Silicone Sealer from Parts Express and how should I use it? Should I more or less caulk a little to keep sound from leaking. I also wanted to put a little wood glue just on the inside edge of the gasket just to make sure it doesn't fray. Anyway, just wondering what you meant by speaker sealer - meaning is it that silicone sold by Parts Express? Any help appreciated. If I don't get an answer, I'll just wing it. I have the yellow spongy thing from Polk, I just don't show it in the pictures. I made the gasket to raise up the db650 since it's a bit too big. I'm just trying to get this done in a hurry. I know I should build a custom speaker cabinet - I can do that when I have the time. This should do for now. But if you want to criticize me, that's ok - I don't care.
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What about using high density weather stripping? Would that work? Tightening the bolts should compress and seal the speakers, no?
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What about using high density weather stripping? Would that work? Tightening the bolts should compress and seal the speakers, no?
Yes, tightening the bolts is sufficient since my gasket is pretty much an almost perfect fit - I was just wondering if
people get in the habit of drawing a bead of silicone around the edge just to give a little more seal and holding power - against vibrations, water degradation, whatever might shorten the lifespan. I just wanted to survey the crowd a little and see what they do - this is my first car speaker install ever - I'm a little bit novicey here. By the way, I will put a touch of epoxy on the threads to combat the screw from spinning. My initial tests of the screws are that they are quite tight even though the diameter is less than the holes but I think a little loctite or epoxy will do the screws good - maybe just loctite - see how that goes. I don't really mind if I have to pull the door panels 6 months from now.
Here's something though - do I have the right philosophy to begin with? My idea is to couple the speaker through Home Depot's HB fiberboard - it isn't like dense wood - it's "weakish" sort of coupling. I don't want the whole car vibrating with my speakers. Would you agree or do people want to transmit vibrations to the door panel? I want my car itself to act as the speaker box more or less. Just need some "yes, you're in the right direction", or "no way man".
So the high-density weather-stripping will tend to "reflect" acoustical energy forwards towards the listener? I guess I can get this at Home Depot?
Thanks. -
never use silicone
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never use silicone
Yeah, we want something that dries firm by kind of soft and doesn't get flaky.
Some guys recommend either of the following:
Parts Express black sealant (#269-300)
or:
A Home Depot choice would be gray electrical putty (see attached). It is relatively inexpensive and goes a long way. You will sometimes see this stuff sold on Ebay as "AR sealant" for much more money.
I'll try one of the above. I could probably use Gorilla Glue but I'm afraid to - I have never used it even though I have some. -
HolkusPolkus1 wrote: »Yeah, we want something that dries firm by kind of soft and doesn't get flaky.
Some guys recommend either of the following:
Parts Express black sealant (#269-300)
or:
A Home Depot choice would be gray electrical putty (see attached). It is relatively inexpensive and goes a long way. You will sometimes see this stuff sold on Ebay as "AR sealant" for much more money.
I'll try one of the above. I could probably use Gorilla Glue but I'm afraid to - I have never used it even though I have some.
Or you could of used rope caulk (mortite) Silicone gives off an acid as it cures not good for speaker parts or wires.
Gorilla is another no no it will swell into something it should not be on.... -
HolkusPolkus1 wrote: »Yeah, we want something that dries firm by kind of soft and doesn't get flaky.
Some guys recommend either of the following:
Parts Express black sealant (#269-300)
or:
A Home Depot choice would be gray electrical putty (see attached). It is relatively inexpensive and goes a long way. You will sometimes see this stuff sold on Ebay as "AR sealant" for much more money.
I'll try one of the above. I could probably use Gorilla Glue but I'm afraid to - I have never used it even though I have some.
The above was discontinued - now it's
Part #: 260-400 Weight: 1.80 lbs. -
Or you could of used rope caulk (mortite) Silicone gives off an acid as it cures not good for speaker parts or wires.
Gorilla is another no no it will swell into something it should not be on....
I had already ordered two products from Parts Express:
Speaker Gasketing Tape 1/8" x 3/8" x 50 ft. Roll
Part Number: 260-540
1 $7.90 $7.90
12" Speaker Sealing Caulk Box of 72 Pcs.
Part Number: 260-400
1 $9.50 $9.50
UPS Ground
$13.05
Order Total: $30.45
But for my front speakers, I will go to Home Depot and pick up some of the grey weather-stripping caulk (mortite) as I would like to see both products in action. Thanks for the idea to use the mortite.
And thanks for the comment on the acid - I was wondering what the problem was with silicone. -
duplicate post
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HolkusPolkus1 wrote: »12" Speaker Sealing Caulk Box of 72 Pcs.
Part Number: 260-400
1 $9.50 $9.50
I'd just stick with the above. you will have more work with mortite to get to the right thickness -
HolkusPolkus1 wrote: »I had already ordered two products from Parts Express:
Speaker Gasketing Tape 1/8" x 3/8" x 50 ft. Roll
Part Number: 260-540
1 $7.90 $7.90
12" Speaker Sealing Caulk Box of 72 Pcs.
Part Number: 260-400
1 $9.50 $9.50
UPS Ground
$13.05
Order Total: $30.45
But for my front speakers, I will go to Home Depot and pick up some of the grey weather-stripping caulk (mortite) as I would like to see both products in action. Thanks for the idea to use the mortite.
And thanks for the comment on the acid - I was wondering what the problem was with silicone.
Armacell works better and is 8 bucks or lessThe Gear... Carver "Statement" Mono-blocks, Mcintosh C2300 Arcam AVR20, Oppo UDP-203 4K Blu-ray player, Sony XBR70x850B 4k, Polk Audio Legend L800 with height modules, L400 Center Channel Polk audio AB800 "in-wall" surrounds. Marantz MM7025 stereo amp. Simaudio Moon 680d DSD
“When once a Republic is corrupted, there is no possibility of remedying any of the growing evils but by removing the corruption and restoring its lost principles; every other correction is either useless or a new evil.”— Thomas Jefferson -
HolkusPolkus1 wrote: »Can I just ask a question or two. I just finished making two really nice gaskets for my rear Polk Audio Speakers - I retrofitted db650's to a car that is supposed to use db651s. So anyway, I then ground down some screws to get better clearance from the rubber ring on the outside of the speakers so that's done. And I have the connectors. Now when I put the gasket in - should I put the yellow spongy thing in below the gasket or above? And should I use some Loctite Silicone Sealer from Parts Express and how should I use it? Should I more or less caulk a little to keep sound from leaking. I also wanted to put a little wood glue just on the inside edge of the gasket just to make sure it doesn't fray. Anyway, just wondering what you meant by speaker sealer - meaning is it that silicone sold by Parts Express? Any help appreciated. If I don't get an answer, I'll just wing it. I have the yellow spongy thing from Polk, I just don't show it in the pictures. I made the gasket to raise up the db650 since it's a bit too big. I'm just trying to get this done in a hurry. I know I should build a custom speaker cabinet - I can do that when I have the time. This should do for now. But if you want to criticize me, that's ok - I don't care.
I put the left-rear speaker in today and it sounds really good. I cranked it up with Jimi Hendrix Ultimate Experience and Concert for Bangladesh. All Along the Watchtower was really crisp - really sharp-sounding - this is exactly what I wanted. I am impressed with the sounds. So tomorrow I'll do the other rear.
Couple comments:
1) 1 1/2" screws are long enough as expected. Any longer and they might protrude inside the door panel and scratch someone looking for a dropped part or tool in there. Best not to use 1 3/4"ers.
I used a 3/16" gasket so the 1 1/2"s should work for 3/16" or 1/4" gaskets. Logically, even
1 1/4" screws SHOULD work. I'll have to feel back there with my fingers tomorrow but I don't
think I made it by much.
2) The ground-down heads worked really nicely - they just missed the rubber ring.
3) The connector from ebay - www.spiralinstallations.com made it easy. Here's a nice website to give
you the color-coding, assuming you don't want phased speakers.
http://www.carstereo.com/help/carwires.cfm
4) When I increase the volume, it really starts to tickle me on the carseat - so plenty of power coming from that speaker. I sat and watched the speaker going in and out - I hadn't really
done that much in my life.
I have only put 1 of 4 in. They are much better than the factory originals which were like 15Watters and had simple paper cones.
The new Polk Audio db650s are like 6 - 60 Watts, 180 Watts peak. The Pioneer DEH-3800MP puts out like 50 Watts per channel or something like that.
These speakers are vintage and are not sold anymore but they are liquid-cooled and sound real nice for the price.
I will have to redo the job when my putties come in. -
As a number 5 to the above:
5) I DID have to drill out the holes of the speaker a smidgen so that the #10 wood screw's barrel would fit inside the hole.
I misplaced my caliper, otherwise I would post the drill-bit size - it's whatever drill bit matches the size of the barrel
on a #10 wood-screw. -
In #5 above, I used a 3/16" drill which is .1875". Any size drill between approximately .179" and .1875" should do as the
screw's barrel tapers out from about .179" roughly near the middle to .1875" (3/16") at the very top of the barrel (just under the head of the screw).
