Refreshing Older Hafler Amp...

13

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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    I also have to make sure it can withstand the heat
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    jakelm wrote: »
    The Panasonic cap is a polyester cap.

    Mouser has a WIMA polyester cap 10uF 50v, which is smaller than the 100v Panasonic.
    The WIMA's will be just fine.
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    mhardy6647 wrote: »

    The Panasonic film caps are OK sonically in my (albeit limited) experience. I used some as coupling caps in a Knight (Allied) 333 (a/k/a Pioneer SX-34) due to space constraints.
    Nelson Pass specs these Panasonic polyesters in many of his DIY projects.
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    Oh while your at it I would change the bridge rectifier as well.It should only be $5 ish.
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    GV#27 wrote: »
    Oh while your at it I would change the bridge rectifier as well.It should only be $5 ish.


    The what?

    Ok..where is it and what does it look like?
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    Here are some shots of what I am working with.

    The first is a shot of the board

    The second is of the huge PS caps.

    I'm sorry the came out so blurry, **** web cam.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    jakelm wrote: »
    The what?

    Ok..where is it and what does it look like?
    It is the square thingy between the large filter caps in the 3rd picture of your first post.They can fail with age so it would be a good idea to change it when you change the caps.You must make sure it is wired correctly or things will get nasty.The polarity will be marked on it.Just use the one now in the amp as a reference.
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,194
    edited August 2007
    GV#27 wrote: »
    Nelson Pass specs these Panasonic polyesters in many of his DIY projects.

    Yes he does so they come highly recommended. If they are good enough for him I'm sure they'll be just fine for you.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • heiney9
    heiney9 Posts: 25,194
    edited August 2007
    GV#27 wrote: »
    Oh while your at it I would change the bridge rectifier as well.It should only be $5 ish.

    Good call as well. You're in there might as well put new ones in then you don't have to worry about them.
    "Appreciation of audio is a completely subjective human experience. Measurements can provide a measure of insight, but are no substitute for human judgment. Why are we looking to reduce a subjective experience to objective criteria anyway? The subtleties of music and audio reproduction are for those who appreciate it. Differentiation by numbers is for those who do not".--Nelson Pass Pass Labs XA25 | EE Avant Pre | EE Mini Max Supreme DAC | MIT Shotgun S1 | Pangea AC14SE MKII | Legend L600 | BlueSound Node 3 - Tubes add soul!
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    heiney9 wrote: »
    Yes he does so they come highly recommended. If they are good enough for him I'm sure they'll be just fine for you.
    My thinking exactly.:)
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    Here are how things are located
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    ohhh....the bridge where the PS wires and caps are tied into, in the middle.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    jakelm wrote: »
    ohhh....the bridge where the PS wires and caps are tied into, in the middle.
    Bingo thats it.
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    This...
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    From the pic it looks like it might be a bit tricky fitting the polycap.Does the top of the chassis sit real close to the top of the circuit board when its on?
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    jakelm wrote: »
    This...
    yes.
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    Is this for adjusting the bias? I think its the 1k ohms trimpot
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    GV#27 wrote: »
    From the pic it looks like it might be a bit tricky fitting the polycap.Does the top of the chassis sit real close to the top of the circuit board when its on?

    I would say the board is about 1/8 inch from touching the top case. Do you think that is why Hafler went with electrolytic?
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    There is a major size difference between a 16v cap and a 100v cap...I don think the 100v will fit, 50v maybe, but not 100
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    jakelm wrote: »
    Is this for adjusting the bias? I think its the 1k ohms trimpot
    Yes that appears to be the bias pot.But a word of advice NO TOUCHY.:eek: Improperly adjusting bias(too high) can damage the output transistors.
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    GV#27 wrote: »
    Yes that appears to be the bias pot.But a word of advice NO TOUCHY.:eek: Improperly adjusting bias(too high) can damage the output transistors.

    Oh GV...They have that market well in blood red...I dare not touch...





    ......But it is so damn tempting...lol
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    jakelm wrote: »
    There is a major size difference between a 16v cap and a 100v cap...I don think the 100v will fit, 50v maybe, but not 100
    Unfortunately film caps are generally rated at 50 or more volts.Electrolytics are made in low voltages to minimize their size.Ill check some catalogs for a smaller 10uf film type.
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    jakelm wrote: »
    ...But it is so damn tempting...lol
    As are many things that can get you into s**t load of trouble and pain.:D
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    GV#27 wrote: »
    Unfortunately film caps are generally rated at 50 or more volts.Electrolytics are made in low voltages to minimize their size.Ill check some catalogs for a smaller 10uf film type.

    But if all else fails, I should be good with electrolytic. I mean, if anything its not I'm going backwards right?

    If I could see in person how large the 50v cap is. I might just order one and see if it fits.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    Let me ask, Why does only one input have a resistor coming from the ground to the chasis? Is it for humm noise?
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    jakelm wrote: »
    But if all else fails, I should be good with electrolytic. I mean, if anything its not I'm going backwards right?

    If I could see in person how large the 50v cap is. I might just order one and see if it fits.
    You could use an electroltyic if need be.

    the 100v panasonic is about 1" long x .75"high x .30" thick.

    It is possible to use some hot glue and mount it near the top of the board and run some short wires to the conection points.
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  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited August 2007
    I think I will stick with the WIMA 50v, might fit better without mods.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    jakelm wrote: »
    I think I will stick with the WIMA 50v, might fit better without mods.
    Yes just giving the size as guide,Im not sure about sizing of the WIMA but it should be smaller.
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited August 2007
    jakelm wrote: »
    Let me ask, Why does only one input have a resistor coming from the ground to the chasis? Is it for humm noise?
    This is likely there to tie the circuit to chassis ground.Using a resistor instead of a direct connection avoids the possibility of ground loops which results in as you said hum.
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  • elguapo99
    elguapo99 Posts: 6
    edited August 2007
    Here is what I used to recap my DH-200:

    (2) 36DY183F075BC2A Vishay/Sprague 75V 18000uf Computer Grade Screw Terminal Capacitor

    (2) UVP1A471MPA Nichicon 10V 470uf Bipolar Cap

    (2) UVP1C100MDD Nichicon 16V 10uf Bipolar Cap

    (4) UHE2A101MPD Nichicon 100V 100uf Low ESR Cap

    My DH-200 sounds great and the new caps are a definite improvement over the aging original electrolytics. I am the original owner of both the DH-200 and the Polk 10A's that it is driving.
    When ordering replacements for the large filter caps be sure to check the height as many are too tall for the enclosure. The Vishay's that I used are the correct height and diameter. I ordered all of the parts from Mouser.
    I would also suggest replacing the on/off switch as this is a known weak point in the DH-200. Mouser has a replacement switch of slightly higher capacity Carling P/N LTA201-TR-B/125N .
    You can find the Bias adjustment procedure in the DH-220 manual on Hafler's Web site. It is the same procedure as the DH-200 but was omitted from the DH-200 manual. DC offset is not adjustable on the DH-200 so disregard that section in the DH-220 manual. Hope this helps.
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