Performance Enclosure crooked!

jzpasnu
jzpasnu Posts: 12
edited August 2007 in Troubleshooting
Hi Guys,

I purchased the TC265i's w/ perf. enclosures for the house that I'm having built. The builder mounted the enclosures and now that the drywall is up, I noticed that one is about 1/4" crooked.

My question is:
1) Without tearing down the drywall and remounting, are there any options? I'm not sure if we can cut the drywall/enclosure slightly so that the speaker can be straight. I'm also not sure how much lip is on the speaker grill to cover overcuts/rough edges. The speakers are new in the box but in the back of my storage unit. I figured I'd find out what our options were before going to the builder to fix. They did the mounting for free so if I can save them a buck by just cutting the opening a bit more, than that's the direction I'd like to go.

Thanks in advance for any advice.
Post edited by jzpasnu on

Comments

  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited August 2007
    Hello,
    Thanks for contacting us. I'll check with the design team, for that project, and forward you their responses.
    Regards, Ken, Polk Audio
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited August 2007
    Hello,
    I heard back from the system's engineer for that project. He feels that you should be able to cut into the enclosure without a problem. It would be best to go ahead and place the speaker into the opening without turning the locking screws. It might be best to have a second person hold the speaker while you see how much adjustment is necessary. There will be a little play in the fitting, but not much. If you find trimming is needed go ahead remove the speaker and trim the enclosure/drywall to get the speaker level. You might need to add some caulking material to make sure the speaker seals tightly once it is installed.
    I hope this is helpful information.
    Regards, Ken
  • jzpasnu
    jzpasnu Posts: 12
    edited August 2007
    Thanks Ken. That's the exact info I was looking for.
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited August 2007
  • [Deleted User]
    [Deleted User] Posts: 7,658
    edited August 2007
    Hello,
    Here is some information from Steve Tourison, our CAD person:
    1. There is a minimum lip of 0.700" around the 265 baffle. This should provide more than enough leeway to allow removal of 1/4" of material from the drywall/enclosure and still get a substantial seal. I would still re-iterate what Scott said: Check first before cutting. Then cut a minimal amount of material away first. Re-check fit and cut more material away if necessary.

    2. My suggestions for correctly performing the operation are:
    a. Scribe a level-line from either the bottom or top edge of the correctly installed enclosure over to the out-of-level enclosure.
    b. Using that line, measure and mark the vertical center of the current opening.
    c. Note: The current opening "should" be 7.25" x 19.25".
    d. Using a good 2 ft. carpenter's square draw a "square" rectangle 7.5" x 19.5" centered about the previously marked centerline.
    e. Note: Only parts of the newly drawn rectangle will be visible as some of it will be drawn "in-space" so-to-speak. (See attached drawing for visual explanation)
    f. Use a jig saw with a fine blade and the newly marked rectangle as a guide to cut out (enlarge) the opening of the out-of-level enclosure.

    3. This will help to assure that not only is the opening level but both speakers will be aligned vertically with one another. With this new opening the installer should still have between 3/8" and 1/2" of lip material around the edge of the baffle to seal against the drywall.

    Caution: Be careful not to over-tighten the mounting dogs. Many portable drills can easily break the screw if the clutch is not set to a very low torque setting.