Rt 2000 P Tweeter Problems
ka7niq
Posts: 577
My RT 2000 P speakers have working tweeters, but the right side is much lower in level then the left.
Just for kicks,, I swapped tweeters, and the right side tweeter works fine in the left side.
The tweeters are working fine, I bellieve the problem is in the crossover ?
I went into the midrange enclosure to pull the crossover.'
I jumpered a 6.9 mfd Mylar cap, and that seemed to make the tweeter louder.
So, I replaced it.
Same problem.
I measured all of the resistors, and the 12 ohm resistor measures 1 ohm.
The other resistors measured close to their ratings.
However, when I jump the 12 ohm resistor, it seems to make little difference, though it measures 1 ohm and is supposed to be 12 ohms.
IS there replacement crossovers for this speaker ?
I also need a wiring schematic to remember where the speaker wires all go w/o taking the other speaker apart.
I am GLAD my tweeters work since no original tweeters remain!
Replacing both tweeters would be costly, and though close, would not be original.
They may or may not be better then originals, and I do not want to pay 150.00 to be an experiment.
Just for kicks,, I swapped tweeters, and the right side tweeter works fine in the left side.
The tweeters are working fine, I bellieve the problem is in the crossover ?
I went into the midrange enclosure to pull the crossover.'
I jumpered a 6.9 mfd Mylar cap, and that seemed to make the tweeter louder.
So, I replaced it.
Same problem.
I measured all of the resistors, and the 12 ohm resistor measures 1 ohm.
The other resistors measured close to their ratings.
However, when I jump the 12 ohm resistor, it seems to make little difference, though it measures 1 ohm and is supposed to be 12 ohms.
IS there replacement crossovers for this speaker ?
I also need a wiring schematic to remember where the speaker wires all go w/o taking the other speaker apart.
I am GLAD my tweeters work since no original tweeters remain!
Replacing both tweeters would be costly, and though close, would not be original.
They may or may not be better then originals, and I do not want to pay 150.00 to be an experiment.
Post edited by ka7niq on
Comments
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Hello,
I'm sorry you're having a problem with the RT2000p tweeter. The resistor marked R1 is a 1.0 Ohm value. This resistor has a 3.3 uFd capacitor in parallel with it, then this group is in series with a 9.0 uFd capacitor. Then there is a 0.25mHy coil parallel with the tweeter itself.
I hope this helps.
Regards, Ken -
Thanks Ken!Kenneth Swauger wrote: »Hello,
I'm sorry you're having a problem with the RT2000p tweeter. The resistor marked R1 is a 1.0 Ohm value. This resistor has a 3.3 uFd capacitor in parallel with it, then this group is in series with a 9.0 uFd capacitor. Then there is a 0.25mHy coil parallel with the tweeter itself.
I hope this helps.
Regards, Ken
I rescued these old speakers from a Pawn Shop, expected repairs, no big deal!
Polk customer service has been for the most part excellent.
I did waste a little time getting to the crossover because I was told to pull the bottom woofers, LOL
No big deal, knowing me, I would have pulled em anyway eventually.
I spoke with Kim this AM, and he is sending me a total new crossover out.
I also ordered some excellent Clarity Caps from Madisound.
These are a well regarded British Poly Capacitor.
I am going to replace the tweeter caps in both speakers with the same value Clarity Caps.
Hey, BTW, the MYLAR 6.9 mfd 100 volt yellow cap IS the tweeter cap, RIGHT ?
I sure hope so, because that is the pair of caps I ordered.
My friend HAS RT 35's with clarity caps on the tweeters.
An AMAZING difference over the stock caps, for sure.
Is there anyway to get a crossover schematic or wiring instructions, etc ?
All the Polk customer service guys have ben great!
I am Old School Polk customer, going way back to Matt himself.
Heard about Polk Audio from Absolute Sound magazine, bought a pair of old Monitors to replace my Advents.
I am sure Matt is proud of his customer service dept, you guys are the best!
Thanks
Chris -
Hello Chris,
I'm glad the information has been helpful. Both the wiring drawing and the crossover can be found on the "sticky" found at the top of the "troubleshooting" section. These have been kindly provided by one of our Forum's most helpful members, dorokusai. As you can see there isn't a 6.9 uFd capacitor on the circuit. The main capacitor, in series with the positive lead of the tweeter is a 9.0 uFd. The other tweeter related capacitor is a 3.3 uFd that is in parallel with a 1.0 Ohm resistor. Is it possible you have the RT2000i speaker?
Regards, Ken -
These were bought from a Pawn Shop, and the stickers removed.Kenneth Swauger wrote: »Hello Chris,
I'm glad the information has been helpful. Both the wiring drawing and the crossover can be found on the "sticky" found at the top of the "troubleshooting" section. These have been kindly provided by one of our Forum's most helpful members, dorokusai. As you can see there isn't a 6.9 uFd capacitor on the circuit. The main capacitor, in series with the positive lead of the tweeter is a 9.0 uFd. The other tweeter related capacitor is a 3.3 uFd that is in parallel with a 1.0 Ohm resistor. Is it possible you have the RT2000i speaker?
Regards, Ken
It MIGHT be a 2000 I ??
Look at a crossover for a 2000 I and see IF there is a yellow Mylar 6.9 MFD cap, ok ?
The tyweeters are the sl 6502's -
I cannot say enough good things about Polk Customer Service.
Everyone I talked to there, Kim and Ken, and all else have done there very best to help me get these old Polks going again.
I have some new crossovers on the way as we speak!
The speakers it turns out ARE RT 200I's NOT 2000P's, LOL
I guess the previous owners fried the crossovers, but the Polk Tweeters lived.
With the new crossovers, the RT 2000I's should be good to go for a long time.
Matt Polk should be very proud of his excellent customer service department !
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