Upgrade Path - Where to end?

2»

Comments

  • reeltrouble1
    reeltrouble1 Posts: 9,312
    edited June 2007
    Dump the sub, upgrade the cables..........

    find some Carver Amazing's or Polk Big Boy SDA's........your young have no waf get some big speakers for at least a while.

    or keep the sub and the cables and just have fun, do your own thing, which you generally have done and your happy aren't you??

    if you want to hear some more bass, MIT Shotgun are excellent and play well with all impedences as they are adjustable in the Shotgun line.

    RT1
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited June 2007
    ^^^^^what he said^^^^^^,, for christaskes,,,get the mono's first,,,while you're waiting,,,go buy some cables,,,I'm going to have some cables fs soon,,signal,MIT T-2's,,IC and Speaker, ;)
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,644
    edited June 2007
    How about this -

    You guys pick me out some cables...

    10' Bi-wire
    5' IC (2 Pairs)
    3' IC (1 Pair)

    For around 800 bucks.

    When you guys say ditch the sub - do you mean ditch the second sub??

    If so, I agree. All subs? No way...

    I have no room for SDA's or Carvers though... lol
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited June 2007
    You could go with MIT T-2 (grey) and still have some money to spend,,or Signal Cables "silver series".$ 800.00 budget should get you some fine cables,,if that matters :D
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • Yashu
    Yashu Posts: 772
    edited June 2007
    Why would you be willing to believe that an aftermarket power cable would make a positive difference, yet better ICs would not?

    You can't fix thousands of miles of electricity transmission through a 3 foot power cord, but you CAN make sure your line level signals are treated right with a half decent set of ICs.

    I also second the sub dumpage. A full range speaker is ideal compared to trying to mate a subwoofer to a system. You are never going to get the bass to be as integrated and coherent with a sub... they work for HT, but for 2 channel audio, less is more.
  • treitz3
    treitz3 Posts: 19,029
    edited June 2007
    What would I do? Lose the the idea of the second sub, or as recommended above, get a set of speakers that don't need a sub for my listening tastes. Experiment with cables, PC's and IC's. Give thought to me selling the CDP and upgrading/swapping the source. That's what I would do. Just be sure to have a lot of fun in the process.

    I'm in Charlotte, NC and depending on where you live, I can swing by with a variety of PC's and interconnects, and you can judge for yourself in your own environment if this is something that you would want to pursue. BTW, that storm you had mentioned earlier where you turned your sub off.....10 bucks says that that's the storm that fried parts of my rig. These electrical storms down here are no freakin' joke!
    ~ In search of accurate reproduction of music. Real sound is my reference and while perfection may not be attainable? If I chase it, I might just catch excellence. ~
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,644
    edited June 2007
    I believe IC's make a difference. I havnt heard any copper ICs aftermarket that made a substantial difference between each other to make the cost worthwhile...

    I have heard a substantial difference in silver vs copper though.

    Any specific models from MIT you can list off?

    I definitely am not getting rid of a sub for 2 channel --- gotta have some low end kick that cant be done by a small driver. Granted my Taylos have alot of kick --- but still gotta have that extra depth. The VMPS Larger is FAST. Very fast sub. It definitely isnt a SVS for music ;)

    The Taylo - unless you hear them, don't let their size full you. Unless you are me - they will do it for you for bass. I have my sub crossed at like 40hz --- right where the Taylos drop off. So they just do the last octave for music -- isnt the most discernable bass either at that.

    As for where I am in NC - I am in the Concordian area.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,644
    edited June 2007
    Oh hell yeah dude ---

    The storms we had the last week were insane. I turned my rig off more in the last week than I had in the last 4 months. Was insane --

    My Dad's preamp got hit by Lightning, had to reboot it.

    But its been nuts down here - lots of rain. Thats for sure.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • Face
    Face Posts: 14,340
    edited June 2007
    How about this -

    You guys pick me out some cables...

    10' Bi-wire
    5' IC (2 Pairs)
    3' IC (1 Pair)

    For around 800 bucks.
    Signal Silver Resolution Reference Speaker Cables
    $399 for 10' bi-wire
    Signal Silver Resolution Reference Analog Interconnects
    5' IC $159 x 2
    3' IC $119
    $836
    Minus 5% CP Discount
    796.19
    Plus $8.95 S&H
    $805.14

    Close enough?
    "He who fights with monsters should look to it that he himself does not become a monster. And when you gaze long into an abyss the abyss also gazes into you." Friedrich Nietzsche
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited June 2007
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,554
    edited June 2007
    I have a tube preamp Jesse


    Hehe....I knew that. :o
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • ben62670
    ben62670 Posts: 15,969
    edited June 2007
    I have solid core 22ga silver DIY IC's with Teflon insulation, and they are not bright at all. I did a braid like PBJ's with three wires, and only attached two on one end, and they sound excellent on my system. I have a pair that I burnt in for a fellow polkie boxed up, and ready to go. They sound great too with WTB locking connectors. Do wires make a big difference on high resolution gear? Yes. Do you have to spend a ton? No. Can you do it yourself? Maybe:p :D;)
    Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
    Thanks
    Ben
  • marvda1
    marvda1 Posts: 4,901
    edited July 2007
    sid, check these. www.audioartcable.com
    10' bi-wire (sc-5) $335
    2x 2m pr. (ic-3) $259.90
    1m pr. (ic-3) $99.95
    total $694.85
    if for the 5' pairs you can use 1.5m = 4.92' the total will be $664.85.
    if you go to the all copper ic-1 interconnects you can save even more.
    these are not bright sounding, very neutral, fast, black background, dynamic.
    Amplifiers: Norma IPA 140, MasterSound Compact 845, Ayre v6xe, Consonance Cyber 800
    Preamp: deHavilland Ultraverve 3
    Dac: Sonnet Morpheus 2, Musical Paradise mp-d2 mkIII
    Transport: Jay's Audio CDT2 mk2, Lumin U1 mini
    Speakers: Rosso Fiorentino Volterra II
    Speaker Cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Organic Audio Organic Reference 2
    Interconnects: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2, Argento Organic Reference 2, Argento Organic 2
    Power Cables: Argento Organic Reference, Synergistic Research Foundation 10 and 12 ga.
    Digital cables: Crystal Clear Magnum Opus 2 bnc, Tellurium Q aes, Silnote Audio Poseidon Signature 2 bnc
    Puritan PSM156
  • mulveling
    mulveling Posts: 505
    edited July 2007
    Well the only difference between the Linbrook and Taylo is the tweeter...

    They use the same midbass as far as I know. I dont need a sub now... lol -- but it augments enough to get the lowest octave...

    The revelator is brighter -- the Seas is more relaxed...

    If I upgrade the Tylers to big Tylers - I will use the 1 year trade up program...

    However, I dont think that is going to happen...

    But yeah - I had turned off my sub amp because of a storm... didnt realize the sub off was until 2 days later. Funny how that works. The 7u is beastly.
    When I had both the Linbrook and Taylos reference monitors in house, I preferred the Taylos. They have more air & sparkle on top. The midrange also sounded more cleaner & more natural...certainly no lack of detail. This was in a moderately large room, too, which should have played to the favor of the Linbrooks' dual woofers.

    Now I don't like bright gear, in fact I typically prefer warm & relaxed, but the Taylos sounded sweeter and more natural overall. If I were lucky enough to be upgrading from 7U's, I'd consider the Taylo Reference 3's over the rest of the Linbrook line ;)

    Something else you might consider soon in your continuing upgrade quest - vinyl ;)
    Tannoy Dimension TD10, SOTA Star Sapphire, Heathkit W4A's, McIntosh MC2100, Eddie-Current Zana Deux, Singlepower SDS, Sennheiser HD650, Audio-Technica L3000, Sony Qualia 010
  • madmax
    madmax Posts: 12,434
    edited July 2007
    I'd dump the idea of another sub (actually, I'd dump the current one too), get some decent interconnects more in line with your equipment level, upgrade to the super towers and get a CD player like a Wadia or MF maybe since you don't seem fond of the current one. That would get you into basic snob level class. :)
    madmax
    Vinyl, the final frontier...

    Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... :D