SVS 25-31 PC Plus vs. DIY Sub
Serendipity
Posts: 6,975
Hi,
I was just wondering if an SVS 25-31 PC Plus subwoofer would be considered a significant "upgrade" to my DIY sub, which is based on the 15" Dayton Titanic MKIII woofer and 1024W plate amplifier, which I built a DIY enclosure for.
BTW, the DIY sub is tuned very well - flat to approx. 18Hz.
Thanks!
I was just wondering if an SVS 25-31 PC Plus subwoofer would be considered a significant "upgrade" to my DIY sub, which is based on the 15" Dayton Titanic MKIII woofer and 1024W plate amplifier, which I built a DIY enclosure for.
BTW, the DIY sub is tuned very well - flat to approx. 18Hz.
Thanks!
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Post edited by Serendipity on
Comments
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I would say, no.
Something in that league might be able to compare to the new Ultra comming out soon? Even then, I'd think your DIY titanic would have more output.
There isn't much out there that can compete with a good DIY sub for the money.
BTW, you have pics of that badboy? -
I would say, no.
Something in that league might be able to compare to the new Ultra comming out soon? Even then, I'd think your DIY titanic would have more output.
There isn't much out there that can compete with a good DIY sub for the money.
BTW, you have pics of that badboy?
Thanks! I don't have any pictures of the sub right now...will take many pics when my HT (basement) is finished. Right now stuff is all over the place!polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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Would like to update this thread -
I compared my DIY sub to other units costing 2-3 times the price, and I still feel that for the money, a good DIY sub can't be beat. When compared to a DefTech SuperCube Reference, which lists for around $1700, the Dayton Titanic had a tighter, more accurate sound. It was also more musical than the DefTech.
In a word, you can't beat a DIY sub unless you want to spend a lot of $$$.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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My SonoSub kicks but, and cost less then $400 minus amp!Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
My SonoSub kicks but, and cost less then $400 minus amp!
Same here - Woofer and enclosure together cost less than $400 (minus amp), and this sub can compete with units costing $1000+.
I think a good DIY sub for $800-900 (or so) will even compete with the new SVS Ultra!polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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I think a good DIY sub for $800-900 (or so) will even compete with the new SVS Ultra!
wha...wha..what?
thems tall words there broda !!!
I have wanted to build a DIY sub for awhile...
not so sure of my skill level thoughCary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)
:cool: -
wha...wha..what?
thems tall words there broda !!!
I have wanted to build a DIY sub for awhile...
not so sure of my skill level though
IMO a good DIY sub can compete with most mass market units.
Also just re-iterating what MikeC78 said.
Just my opinion thoughpolkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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I see no reason why a guy with the right knowledge couldn`t out build a mass-producer..
If you buy the same, or better components...why not
your attention to detail would be outstanding
I would like to use the 12" momo that I have to make a HT sub..
I keep watching what you guy`s are doing and taking notes !!Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)
:cool: -
I've got a 1000rms2000peak 12" Shocker sub sitting here from when I competed in car audio comps.....I should turn it into a DIY home sub and sell the velodyne........
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If you buy the same, or better components...why not
your attention to detail would be outstanding
That's the key - buy better components and tune the box carefully. And keep on tuning the box until perfection.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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Both my DIY subs outperform every sub in my area. Velodyne, a 25-31 plus and a huge Cerwin Vega.
People come over and are amazed. The only thing is that it doesnt "look" as nice as some, but performs better than all.
A SVS 12.1 in a 4.1cuft enclosure, port tuned to 22hz with a Rythmik amp.
All for ~$300. Cant beat that.
Even my other less expensive 12" Dayton in a 3cuft enclosure with another Rythmik amp, port tuned to 25hz, holds it own.
And I'm building another for myself and another for a good friend of mine.
It almost like buying very expinsive speakers, or instead, findind a beautiful vintage pair for next to nothing and putting alittle work into them and having them outperform a that very expinsive speaker.
But some people just dont want to mess with all of that, so they spend the money.Monitor 7b's front
Monitor 4's surround
Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
M10's back surround
Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
Harman/Kardon AVR-635
Oppo 981hd
Denon upconvert DVD player
Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
Mit RPTV WS-55513
Tosh HD-XA1
B&K AV5000
Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek: -
Both my DIY subs outperform every sub in my area. Velodyne, a 25-31 plus and a huge Cerwin Vega.
People come over and are amazed. The only thing is that it doesnt "look" as nice as some, but performs better than all.
A SVS 12.1 in a 4.1cuft enclosure, port tuned to 22hz with a Rythmik amp.
All for ~$300. Cant beat that.
Even my other less expensive 12" Dayton in a 3cuft enclosure with another Rythmik amp, port tuned to 25hz, holds it own.
And I'm building another for myself and another for a good friend of mine.
It almost like buying very expinsive speakers, or instead, findind a beautiful vintage pair for next to nothing and putting alittle work into them and having them outperform a that very expinsive speaker.
But some people just dont want to mess with all of that, so they spend the money.
Agreed.
But I'd love to own a mass-market sub someday, like the SVS Ultra, simply due to the fact that it looks nice would blend well (aesthetically) in my room.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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Check out these guys...
www.epiksubwoofers.com
Nice price, and the "conquest" from what I hear has more output than dual Ultra 13's combined. The dimensions are something to be considered, talk about WAF... -
Check out these guys...
www.epiksubwoofers.com
Nice price, and the "conquest" from what I hear has more output than dual Ultra 13's combined. The dimensions are something to be considered, talk about WAF...
Wow those are some amazing subs!polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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So you took a SVS driver, built a better cabinet, slapped a different amp and your getting better performance than the SVS models that use those same drivers? That's pretty impressive. Do you have pics?
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Here is my 12" sub. Weight is right around 65ish pounds. Triple stacked magnet.
I don't think it will ever make HT duty though because the coils are 1/2 ohm each I have yet to see a 1 ohm stable home theater amp because of current draw. Maybe if I get 4 of them........I could get a 4 ohm load.... -
Agreed.
But I'd love to own a mass-market sub someday, like the SVS Ultra, simply due to the fact that it looks nice would blend well (aesthetically) in my room.
I would like to try a top of the line SVS, and compare it to my Sonosub. I really think the large sono's would beat the SVS's. Mass market companies could not practically ship a 7x3 foot 100lb+ package via UPS so they have their design limits. Where we can GO LARGE. When I lopped a foot off my tube to comply with Parts expresses advice on encloser design I lost a lot of my lower end extension. Also a thing that needs to be taken into consideration is that most main speakers don't fair well at 60hz, and that is really where you should XO a large Sono at for brain vibrating tight bass (literal vision blurring bass). If you XO
at 100hz vision blurring, and nose hairs tingling just start to get irritating. Never mind the headaches.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
How does one tune a subwoofer?
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mmcculloch wrote: »How does one tune a subwoofer?
Tire iron and a wrench.
Stick the tire iron through the cone, wiggle a little bit till you get the sound you like.
Then take the wrench and tighten the speaker cables tight as possible and you are all set. -
Hmmm... I think I want a second opinion.
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mmcculloch wrote: »How does one tune a subwoofer?
I use a parametric equalizer. I play test tones through my HTPC, whose sound card is fed into the Onkyo TX-SR702, and adjust the sub level to match the level of the other speakers on the AVR. Then, using the parametric EQ on the sub, I play frequency sweeps from 20Hz-80Hz (crossover point) while adjusting the EQ so that the frequency sweeps are as flat as possible.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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Now we're getting somewhere. So if someone wants to build their own sub, would they need a parametric EQ to make it worthwhile?
Now another newbie question. What does "flat" mean? -
mmcculloch wrote: »Now we're getting somewhere. So if someone wants to build their own sub, would they need a parametric EQ to make it worthwhile?
Now another newbie question. What does "flat" mean?
Yes, I would recommend it.
Flat means that for all frequencies, the subwoofer plays at a consistent level. Instead of "boomy," where there is an over-emphasis on certain frequencies.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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Got it. Thanks.
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The right driver, box design and amp can get you more performance than most if not all commercial subs. It takes some know how and for the real killer subs, you're going to spend $$$ on the driver(s) and amp. So as a general statement you'll get better performance going DIY.
Illka just released the numbers on the PB13Ultra and it did very well against some stellar DIY designs. It's on the Shack if you're interested. The Epik subs are basically DIY designs from Chad Kuypers that look to be killer if you don't mind very large.
Combo rig:
Onkyo NR1007 pre-pro, Carver TFM 45(fronts), Carver TFM 35 (surrounds)
SDA 1C, CS400i, SDA 2B
PB13Ultra RO
BW Silvers
Oppo BDP-83SE -
mmcculloch wrote: »How does one tune a subwoofer?
Size of enclosure, port diameter, and port length. Not an EQ. If you need an EQ you F...ed up your box design.Please. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
Size of enclosure, port diameter, and port length. Not an EQ. If you need an EQ you F...ed up your box design.
The room plays a great role too. You could have a very well tuned box design but dips/peaks in the room acoustics require an EQ.polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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The room plays a great role too. You could have a very well tuned box design but dips/peaks in the room acoustics require an EQ.
I kinda agree with that. But... big sono's should run at 60 and lower shouldn't have issues with room gain at specific frequencies. Comparing design graphs, and SPL checking with a meter, and signal generator I would strongly suggest not using an EQ unless their was an issue. Bass traps may be in order to settle things down:DPlease. Please contact me a ben62670 @ yahoo.com. Make sure to include who you are, and you are from Polk so I don't delete your email. Also I am now physically unable to work on any projects. If you need help let these guys know. There are many people who will help if you let them know where you are.
Thanks
Ben -
I kinda agree with that. But... big sono's should run at 60 and lower shouldn't have issues with room gain at specific frequencies. Comparing design graphs, and SPL checking with a meter, and signal generator I would strongly suggest not using an EQ unless their was an issue. Bass traps may be in order to settle things down:D
In my basement no EQ is needed. But for some reason, my living room requires a filter of -2db at 50Hz, otherwise the 50-60Hz sounds "boomy."polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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In my basement no EQ is needed. But for some reason, my living room requires a filter of -2db at 50Hz, otherwise the 50-60Hz sounds "boomy."
My uneducated guess is, the upper floor is more like a typical box, playing in sympathy to the sub on all 6 sides, whereas basements tend to have 5 very solid sides plus a sturdier roof too.It should take some serious power to get a basement singing.