Problem w/my Monitor 5 Tweeter. Please Help.

laeditor

Hi All,

I own a pair of Monitor 5's that I purchased new sixteen or seventeen years ago. They've been great, and never missed a beat in all that time...until now.

I'm a newbie when it comes to the technical side of speakers, so please bear with me.

It seems as if the tweeter on the right speaker has stopped working. I've done some troubleshooting to make sure that it is indeed a problem with the speaker, and not a problem with the amp or wire.

Last night, I got up real close to the speaker to listen so I could describe it to you. There is sound coming from the woofer (albeit low), but nothing from the tweeter.

If not expensive, I would be willing to try and replace the tweeter. Is that expensive, and would you recommend it? Or, is there something more I might be able to do to troubleshoot the thing.

By the way, nothing changed on my setup to cause this problem. No new equipment, no new placement of the speakers, nothing. One day it was fine, the next day, it wasn't.

Thanks for any input.

-Mike.

heiney9

If they are older Monitor 5's then there is a fuse on the back where the terminal is. Check to make sure it's inserted correctly ,if so, then check to make sure it's not blown. If it is replace with the same rated fuse.

If there is no fuse then there is an internal protection called a "polyswitch". Overtime those can go out and need to be replaced. If you are fairly good with a soldering iron it's very easy to do. Call Polk Customer Service and I bet they will send you the poly switchs for free.

The other thing you can do is swap the tweeters from each 5b ( R to L ) and see if the problem follows the tweeter or the connection. That will tell you for sure if the tweeter is bad or something in the connection.

If the tweet is bad then we have to determine which tweeter you have and then either try to find 1 used Original here on CP or get the current replacement which should be replaced in pairs since they have slightly different sonic characteristics.

H9

laeditor

heiney9,

Thank you VERY much for the response. I will look into everything that you have suggested (great idea with switching the tweeters, by the way. didn't think of that one), and then post my findings.

Thanks again,

Mike

laeditor

heiney9 wrote: »

If there is no fuse then there is an internal protection called a "polyswitch".

H9

I checked the back of the speaker and I do not see a fuse.

Where would I find this "polyswitch"?

Thanks,

Mike

heiney9

See pic. It's the blue square next to the tan square resistor. The new ones that you get from Polk might be a brownish color and I believe they are round.

H9

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=24007&d=1175955719

laeditor

heiney9 wrote: »

See pic. It's the blue square next to the tan square resistor. The new ones that you get from Polk might be a brownish color and I believe they are round.

H9

Excellent. Thanks for the picture.

After I posted the question to you last night about the polyswitch, I took your suggestion and removed the tweeter from the "good" side (the left speaker), and installed it into the right cabinet (the "bad" one), and it worked fine. Does that tell you anything?

I didn't try putting the "bad" tweeter in the good cabinet (just wasn't thinking), but I will try it tonight, and report my findings.

Thanks again for your help.

-Mike

george daniel

laeditor wrote: »

Excellent. Thanks for the picture.

After I posted the question to you last night about the polyswitch, I took your suggestion and removed the tweeter from the "good" side (the left speaker), and installed it into the right cabinet (the "bad" one), and it worked fine. Does that tell you anything?

I didn't try putting the "bad" tweeter in the good cabinet (just wasn't thinking), but I will try it tonight, and report my findings.

Thanks again for your help.

-Mike

most likely the polyswitch,it's located on the x-over, easily removed/replaced--have fun.

engtaz

Polk will send the polys to you for free

laeditor

Just out of curiosity, what is the function of the polyswitch?

george daniel

tweeter protection,,, kinda like a fuse,except it resets inself,, and after time/tripped, may require replacement.

laeditor

george daniel wrote: »

tweeter protection,,, kinda like a fuse,except it resets inself,, and after time/tripped, may require replacement.

Thank you. You guys are awesome.

So, do I need to try putting the "bad" tweeter in the good cabinet, or are you guys pretty sure that it's the polyswitch, and if so, how do I go about getting a new one?

george daniel

laeditor wrote: »

Thank you. You guys are awesome.

So, do I need to try putting the "bad" tweeter in the good cabinet, or are you guys pretty sure that it's the polyswitch, and if so, how do I go about getting a new one?

I would,, just to be sure,,,let us know what you find

laeditor

george daniel wrote: »

I would,, just to be sure,,,let us know what you find

Will do.

laeditor

Okay.

I just installed the bad tweeter in the good cabinet, and it did not work. So, to recap:

1. Neither of my speaker cabinets have a fuse on the back
2. No, the bad tweeter does not work in the good cabinet, and yes, the good tweeter does work in the bad cabinet.

So, are you all in agreement that my next step should be getting a new polyswitch? If so, I'd love to know how to do that.

Thanks very much for your help,

Mike

george daniel

If the problem follows the "bad" tweeter,, replace the tweeter,,if I understand correctly.

laeditor

george daniel wrote: »

If the problem follows the "bad" tweeter,, replace the tweeter,,if I understand correctly.

Yes, the problem is following the bad tweeter. You understood correctly.

Now, how do I go about getting a new tweeter?

heiney9

laeditor wrote: »

Yes, the problem is following the bad tweeter. You understood correctly.

Now, how do I go about getting a new tweeter?

You can buy replacements from Polk (not original), but ideally they need to bought in pairs as they sound quite different from the originals (most say much better). As a CP member they $48 each plus tax shipped to your door.

I will probably have as couple for sale shortly. A current member is letting me know by the weekend if he wants them, if not, you are welcome to one or both them.

I will have (2) and possibly (3) sl2000 tweets in excellent condition FS. If you are interested post your interest here and as soon as I contact the other party and they decline I'll let you know.

$25 each shipped; $45 pr.; $60 for all 3. They will be securely shipped in the packaging that came from Polk when I purchased the new RD0's.

H9

jakelm

H9,

I forgot, what new Polk tweeter replaces the peerless without modification?

heiney9

jakelm wrote: »

H9,

I forgot, what new Polk tweeter replaces the peerless without modification?

I'm not sure there is a direct replacement. The RD0194-1 is the closest I believe. Some others who have actually replaced the peerless might chime in. IMO, you should (might benefit) from changing the x-overs if one is replacing a peerless with the RD0194-1. Any extra holes can be filled with jumpers.

H9

jakelm

heiney9 wrote: »

I'm not sure there is a direct replacement. The RD0194-1 is the closest I believe. Some others who have actually replaced the peerless might chime in. IMO, you should (might benefit) from changing the x-overs if one is replacing a peerless with the RD0194-1. Any extra holes can be filled with jumpers.

H9

True about the xover.

But I dont see the RDO194-1 in the parts list.

http://clubpolk.polkaudio.com/service/parts/partslist.php3?item=tweeters

I just bought one of these...I'll see how it compares..

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=MCMProducts&category%5Fname=3829626&product%5Fid=LS00058

heiney9

jakelm wrote: »

True about the xover.

But I dont see the RDO194-1 in the parts list.

http://clubpolk.polkaudio.com/service/parts/partslist.php3?item=tweeters

I just bought one of these...I'll see how it compares..

http://www.mcminone.com/product.asp?catalog%5Fname=MCMProducts&category%5Fname=3829626&product%5Fid=LS00058

The parts list is hopelessly outdated and the RD0 part number never showed. I also recommend just politely mentioning the part number when you order. I tried about a year ago to get some RD0's for my old RTA-11t's and the customer service guy was going to sell me sl2500's until I mentioned I wanted the RD0194-1, which they were out of stock at the time.

H9

jakelm

Thanks H9

engtaz

Just call them and tell them your a forum member. I received mine in 2 days. They also sent me the polyswitch at no charge.

laeditor

heiney9 wrote: »

I will have (2) and possibly (3) sl2000 tweets in excellent condition FS. If you are interested post your interest here and as soon as I contact the other party and they decline I'll let you know.

$25 each shipped; $45 pr.; $60 for all 3. They will be securely shipped in the packaging that came from Polk when I purchased the new RD0's.

H9

I'd be interested in the pair for $45. Let me know.

Thanks,

Mike

heiney9

laeditor wrote: »

I'd be interested in the pair for $45. Let me know.

Thanks,

Mike

Mike,
They are yours. I don't think you can PM until you have a higher post count. You can e-mail me the details. You can pay the usual ways, check, MO or paypal if you prefer.

I will get them out as soon as I hear from you and the payment has cleared. A little bit unorthodox to close a deal outside the flea market, but hey you had a need and I could help out. They will be shipped to withstand the usual abuse.

Brock