Car speaker suggestions....
Comments
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I dont have any in my trunk. But my sub is firing into the cabin and is pretty well isolated from the back of the trunk. During normal listening, you cant hear it outside the trunk at all.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
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polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D -
Wait till you have a sub and amplifier combination that is putting out some power.Alpine: CDA-7949
Alpine: PXA-H600
Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
KnuKonceptz
Second Skin -
So blackmax before I even replace the factory CD Player or speakers you say I should Xtreme Dynamat the doors? What about the headliner and under the carpet and hood and whole trunk? I once talked to a guy at Best Buy about doing that exactly for a Mazda 626 I once owned and he told me that was a rediculous amount of Dynamat to lay down.
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It would certainly help.
If nothing else, do all the doors you have speakers in. Then you can continue with the floor and walls, if you want. That will really help to keep out road noise and wind noise, and keep your noise in. Then if you want to go all out, you can worry about the hood and trunk.
But whenever you get a chance/money, you should definitely do your doors.
*says the guy who doesn't have one bit of sound deadening in his rattle trap of a 12 year old car*George Grand wrote: »
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Pioneer Premier DEH-P860MP, Memphis 16-MCA3004, Boston Acoustic RC520 -
JoshParsons84 wrote: »So blackmax before I even replace the factory CD Player or speakers you say I should Xtreme Dynamat the doors? What about the headliner and under the carpet and hood and whole trunk? I once talked to a guy at Best Buy about doing that exactly for a Mazda 626 I once owned and he told me that was a rediculous amount of Dynamat to lay down.
Not really what I was saying.... just used my experience with only having one of the doors as an example. My plan was to yank out the stock Bose system so that is why I did the deadening. I followed this with the stereo install. With this install I just decided to go with the deadening first. I've done the whole trunk in my car, rear shelf area (underside), as well as the front doors (several layers- both the inner and outer skins). I still want to tackle the rear doors and under the back seat area, icluding the wheel wells. I will probably stop here, but if you want to tackle the whole car, that will be up to you .
I would not go with Dynamat Extreme (if I were to use a Dynamat deadener product, this would the only one I would put in my car)...... it is a good product, but for the price you will get more of the SecondSking Damplifier which is just as good if not better.
Main page:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi
Damplifier page:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?p=ps&pg=1Alpine: CDA-7949
Alpine: PXA-H600
Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
KnuKonceptz
Second Skin -
Second skin is better than dynamat and its cheaper.
As far as head liner, not really necessary unless you have a lot of power and its flexing. Doing the trunk will eliminate rattles and reduce road noise as well as the floor. You can never have too much deadening, but whether the difference is worth the cost is up to you.
I have over a grand just in sound deadening with second skin, I stand behind it.
-CodyMusic is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
Great product.....Alpine: CDA-7949
Alpine: PXA-H600
Alpine: CHA-S624, KCA-420i, KCA-410C
Rainbow: CS 265 Profi Phase Plug / SL 165
ARC Audio: 4150-XXK / 1500v1-XXK
JL Audio: 10W6v2 (x2)
KnuKonceptz
Second Skin -
OK thanx