Car speaker suggestions....

audiobliss

You can't biamp with just a C300.2. The whole idea of biamping is having more amp channels than you have speaker channels. Let me clarify.

If you use a C300.2, then you're going to have two channels. If you're installing one set of SR6500 components, then you're going to have a tweeter and a mid in each front corner of your vehicle. That's one amp channel per tweeter/mid combo. That's not biamping. That's just hooking it all up the plain jane way.

Biamping is if you have a C400.4 - four channels of Polk Audio goodness. Then you would connect the front left channel of the amp to the left tweeter, rear left channel of the amp to the left mid, front right channel of the amp to the right tweeter, and rear right channel of the amp to the right mid. THAT's biamping.

And the advantage? Tons more power and headroom, though, besides for bragging rights, the advantage there is probably not all that obvious. The biggest advantage, though, is flexibility in tuning. You can adjust the gains on each tweeter and each mid separately. If the tweeters sound bright to you, and you like smoother sounding speakers, turn down the gains on the tweeters. If you like them bright, turn them up (but don't blow them!).

The process for setting the gains when you're biamping is, turn down all your gains, turn your HU up to ~3/4 max volume, then turn up the gains for the mids until they begin to reach their limit, then back off slightly. Then, turn up the gains on the tweeters until you've reached a balance you like. My point in bringing that up at this point is that you have the ability to adjust the gain on the tweeters to where you want them. Not where whoever designed the crossover wanted them (even though they do give you some tweeter attenuation levels, there're only three to choose from).

So, YOU choose. YOU set everything. YOU get YOUR system set how YOU like it set how YOU want it to sound.

So, that's basically the difference between amping and biamping, and why a C300.2 will only allow you to amp. And why you need a C400.4.

Hope it made some sense.

JoshParsons84

So that 400.4 would be better than the 300.2? I'm just gonna be running a set of SR6500 components. And then you said the 500.1 isn't powerful enough to run SR subs? What would you suggest then? Alpine PDX-1.1000, SX-1250.1, or Rockford Fosgate P1000-1bd?

JoshParsons84

I know exactly what you were talking about though audiobliss. Yes it makes perfect sense to me, but what about this....instead of turning the HU to about 3/4 of the way what about turning it to like 15 or 16 and then tweaking everything. That's how I always had all the Alpine's tuned in my dad's car for him.

audiobliss

JoshParsons84 wrote: »

I know exactly what you were talking about though audiobliss. Yes it makes perfect sense to me, but what about this....instead of turning the HU to about 3/4 of the way what about turning it to like 15 or 16 and then tweaking everything. That's how I always had all the Alpine's tuned in my dad's car for him.

Unless I'm missing something, same difference, no?

I would rather have the C400.4. Why? More bragging rights. More flexibility with tuning. More flexibility with future applications with both channels and power.

I have a 4-channel.

JoshParsons84

I see what you're saying about the 4-channel amp and biamping. That's smart and I'll probably do that also. What do you think though about the HU and Alpines,Kickers,&Rockford Fosgates?

audiobliss

What do I think about the HU, as in, what brand? Eclipse, Kenwood eXcelon, Pioneer Premier, Alpine. And that's the order I'd look at them in, though Kenwood and Pioneer are really really close, in my mind.

As for amps, I'm assuming you're talking about a sub amp...I've yet to venture into the sub arena, so I'll just try to keep my mouth shut and let someone else chime in. However, I will list a few brands I'd personally look at: Polk MOMO (can you say two C500.1's? ), Zapco, Arc Audio, USAmps, Diamond Audio, Memphis, JL, Rockford Fosgate, Kicker. All good choices in my opinion.

And in case you haven't noticed my sig yet, I chose Memphis for my four-channel and will do so again for my sub amp. I went with them the first because it fits PERFECTLY where I need it to: long, skinny, and not too tall. Same goes for the sub amp, besides the fact I want matching amps.

1996blackmax

Good list of choices there.

JoshParsons84

Hey guys I think I almost got it down here:

CD Player: Pioneer Premier DEH-P980BT or Alpine CDA-9857
Speakers: Polk Audio SR6500, Alpine Type X SPX-177R or Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS
4-channel Amp: Kicker SX900.4
Subwoofers: Polk Audio SR124-DVC, Kicker SoloX 12 or Pioneer Premier TS-W5102SPL
Subwoofer Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T40001BD

Well guys what do you think? If you think differently whatsoever, please tell me where I could be messing up.

Greg Peters

JoshParsons84 wrote: »

Hey guys I think I almost got it down here:

CD Player: Pioneer Premier DEH-P980BT or Alpine CDA-9857

The 9857 isn't really anything to write home about. If your main objective is iPod integration, it'll do, but I'd prefer the Pioneer.

JoshParsons84 wrote: »

Speakers: Polk Audio SR6500, Alpine Type X SPX-177R or Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS

Polk SR is much nicer than the Alpine Type X...I've heard them both in a lengthy A/B with similar amplification and careful installation. I'd expect the forthcoming Alpine Type X Pros to be more along the lines of the SRs. I have yet to demo the Pioneer set.

JoshParsons84 wrote: »

4-channel Amp: Kicker SX900.4
Subwoofers: Polk Audio SR124-DVC, Kicker SoloX 12 or Pioneer Premier TS-W5102SPL
Subwoofer Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T40001BD


Well guys what do you think? If you think differently whatsoever, please tell me where I could be messing up.

The Polk SR sub would be very nice. The Kicker...probably more loud than great-sounding- I've demo'd a few Kicker subs and never really liked them for SQ (though I wouldn't knock them for an SPL application). Pioneer- not a fan of their subs, but they're fairly inexpensive. The Kicker and RF amps should do the job just fine.

I noticed you've posted for some suggestions over at CAF, and to warn you- Polk products are generally not well-loved on that forum, for whatever reason. Don't expect much love for the SR6500s and SR104/SR124 over there. I think some of the hardened Polk haters would have a crap if they could get over their bias long enough to actually demo some Signature Reference equipment .

JoshParsons84

So lemme get this straight:

CD Player: Pioneer Premier DEH-P980BT
6.5" Components: Polk Audio SR6500
6.5" Amp: Kicker SX-900.4
Subs: Polk Audio SR124-DVC
Subs Amp: Rockford Fosgate Power T40001BD

So did I get this right? Do y'all think I should anything now?

audiobliss

That round up looks perfect!

exalted512

I hope you plan on getting about 6 SR12s if you wanting to run that amp...along with at least 2 ADDITIONAL batteries and an aftermarket alternator
-Cody

audiobliss

Hahahaha. I just looked up the specs on that sub amp. That is just a tad excessive. LOL!!

That Kicker is pretty insane, too. But definitely doable. It's on the excessive side, but that's glorious excess; if the budget allows for it, go for it!

That Rockford is just ridiculous excess, though. Scale back on that one.

exalted512

Heres a pic with me and my 40001, a measly 4600w RMS.

-Cody

JoshParsons84

LOL That amp is pretty huge isn't it? OK lemme look a little bit longer and I'll let you know what I find here in a minute.

JoshParsons84

OK what about this. I went back on Rockford Fosgate and stepped down to the T20001bd. It's 750 watts @4ohm and the SR are rated at 700 watts. So that would probably be the one then, right? And then should I even step down with the Kicker? Or should I find another Rockford Fosgate 4-channel amp for my mids and highs?

exalted512

How many SRs do you plan on running?
-Cody

JoshParsons84

Just two

exalted512

Id suggest getting the dual 4 versions and a T10001.
-Cody

JoshParsons84

Hey Cody, what amp would you recommend for the components?

MacLeod

The Kicker would be a fine choice.

exalted512

If you wanted to keep everything looking the same, Id go with these amps:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=104&family_id=107&item_id=107997&locale=en_US&p_status=
or
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=104&family_id=107&item_id=107995&locale=en_US&p_status=
with this sub amp:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/product_details.asp?cat_id=2&series_id=104&family_id=105&item_id=107999&locale=en_US&p_status=
-Cody

audiobliss

I'd personally still stick with the Kicker on the components.

But keep in mind that's because I love glorious excess. If you want to save some money and go for the Rockford Fosgate Cody listed, they'll certainly not disappoint.

exalted512

The first fosgate amp I listed does the same power as that kicker...
-Cody

audiobliss

I hate RF and Kicker's websites. I'm not patient enough to make heads or tails of 'em.

exalted512

Internet 2
AudioBliss 0
-Cody

JoshParsons84

Hey guys I just bought the ride this'll be going in. It's a 99 Pontiac Grand Prix GT 4 door w/ 148,000 miles on it. It's white with new brakes, tires, water pump, and and upper radiator hose. I got it off this guy about 20 minutes West of Paintsville, KY for $3,500. I go tomorrow to get the money from the bank. I'm getting 4,000 because I'm gonna get insurance and tags and all that BS. Then it'll be a while before I can start putting a system in. But it's nice to know ahead of time what to do. It has either a 6 or 8 band factory EQ on the factory CD Player, so I may just tweak it a little and be fine until I can save for some speakers. But all in all what do y'all think that system will sound like in my Grand Prix?

exalted512

i think youll be highly impressed. You might want to think about sound deadening your doors too. Itll help out a lot with you midrange/midbass out of the SRs.

I use www.secondskinaudio.com religiously.
-Cody

MacLeod

Definitely!

In fact, you CANNOT dampen your doors enough!

Ive got 3 layers of Dynamat in my front doors along with a ton of pollyfill. Im also thinking of slapping 10-15 pounds of modeling clay in the door skin as well. The deader the door, the better your mids will sound.

1996blackmax

The first thing I did to my current car was deaden the trunk and doors, this was when it still had the OEM system installed. I did one dooor at a time due to time constraints. The difference between the deadened door and the regular door was very obvious (even with the OEM system). The speaker that was on the completed door just sounded alot better, more solid and punchier bass than the other speaker. The speaker on the other door just sounded hollow. This would be one of the best things you could do for the mids.