New WoodShed constuction under way

Systems

madmax wrote:

I'm thinking if you are above ground the only thing dryloc could do is trap moisture. Not that it would.
madmax

Sorry if I'm not understanding this in a whole...but anytime you use CMU it would be a nessasary to use a Dylock type material to prevent moisture absorbion INSIDE the occupied space. Above ground or not. Just my opinion and practice. Should I be wrong in this please advise me of the nature of my fault. (Don't mean to sound like an ****)....Speel check please...LOL

madmax

stereo_luver wrote:

but anytime you use CMU it would be a nessasary to use a Dylock type material to prevent moisture absorbion INSIDE the occupied space. Above ground or not. Just my opinion and practice. LOL

I'm sure you know more about it than I do. (I'm strictly an electronics guy). My thought was if it was above ground the dryloc may trap in more moisture coming from the inside living area than it keeps out moisture coming in from outside?? Have no experience though.
madmax

ben62670

I was an electrician for a while, and I would recommend running a 10/3 wire run to the panel. /It is perfectly legal to use 20amp breakers on a 10ga wire. This way you will have 2 circuits sharing the same ground, and neutral to help isolate any noise/hum.
Your project is looking good. Someday I hope to have a dedicated theater room too.:)

reeltrouble1

So lets talk in-wall speakers for a bit, given a room 18x16x8, which in wall? It will be 7.1, with the back being in ceiling for sure, open to other ceiling speakers or where to mount the in-walls, remember their will be traditional speakers in the room for the 2-channel.

RT1

SCompRacer

My in-wall/ceiling surround sysytem is in a 14' x 22' x 8' room. The fronts/center and rears are in-wall/ceiling facing the shorter distance with two LSi7's as surrounds.

I preferred the LCi series and started out with the LC65'is as R & L front & C with two LC60i's in the ceiling. Something seemed lacking until I upgraded the R & L front to LC265i 3 ways. Maybe it was the don't put too small of a speaker in a big room thing. So maybe consider 6" driver three ways or 8" driver two ways for your room.

I built enclosures for them using fire breaks between the wall studs, and doubled up MDF between the ceiling joists to make ceiling enclosures. A couple of handfuls of insulation were tossed in before mounting the speakers. You could use MDF between the studs for the rear of your wall enclosures.

reeltrouble1

OK need some help, I have all the wall studs up, will be building sofets around the perimter, the ceiling is now exposed.

Electrical question??? Given one 20 amp line for lighting, how many recessed cans can I run? The room will measure 15' wide by 16' long. It is all new construction as far as the walls, the ceiling/floor joists are typical 2x12 with standard insulation looks like 8" fiberglass. What is the recommended way to wire the cans?? I also want one ceiling fan and two sconces, on this line for air movement. I want to be able to dim the lights. I would like to be able to have four different zones for the lights.

1. around entire perimeter front, back and side walls, hung in perimeter sofet.
2. sconces and ceiling fan
3. cans in second stepped sofet
4. cans in flat existing ceiling

stereo luver, I am not following your suggestion for the floating drywall??? can you explain it is simpler terms????

RT1

SCompRacer

The basic loading rule is 80% of circuit capacity. 20 amps x 120 volts is 2400 watts. 80% gives you 1920 watts to work with. If you use 75 watt bulbs, that would equal 25.6 fixtures with 75 watt light bulbs. However, local code may only allow x number of fixtures or outlets per circuit regardless of capacity.

IIRC, you were going to insulate the ceiling so you will need IC rated housings. I'll try and find the link to the web site where I figured my can light placement in the lower level. Our family room is 22' x 14' and I used 8 IC rated can lights. They are wired in two seperate banks of 4 with dimmers. The can lights have boxes so you daisy chain them with a parallel circuit.

EDIT: pdf doc residential recessed lighting. This covers placement and spacing based on bulb wattage and ceiling height.

schwarcw

Rich,

Do you still want to keep the insulation away from those light cans!

I have left about six inches of empy space around the cans in my ceiling.

RT, Check the wattage limits on those cans, some of them only like 60 watts max. Others can tolerate higher wattages.

By all means Rich knows far more about this stuff than I do. If you take my advice your woodshed will be wood ashes :eek:

Carl

SCompRacer

Rich doesn’t know that much, but he had some good electrician friends that knew local code to keep him out of trouble. IIRC, we can only have a maximum of 10 light fixtures on a 15 amp circuit here. Some communities’ local code only allows four outlets on a 20 amp circuit.

Ted, if you were not aware of it, pay attention to box fill ratings too. Like conduit, you just can't stuff them full of wire just cause it will fit. An explanation. The raised electrical box covers that your devices (switches/outlet) will attach to will add cubic inches to the box.

Carl, my IC rated can lights are rated for a 75 watt bulb. IC rated means you can cover them with insulation. Non IC requires insulation be at least 3” away from the can. Can lights made after '82 have a thermal switch that trips around 190 degrees F and resets at around 180. Law requires non-IC cans to have a warning label.

When my BIL built his house, he had can lights installed over the kitchen counters. They were supposed to be IC rated, but the thermal protection would pop if they were on for a few hours. He ended up going into the attic and clearing some insulation away. I never went up there to see if they were IC rated. It should say on the can.

schwarcw

Damn! That article you attached makes my head hurt. I'm way too tired to try and ingest that. Besides, I'm chilling to Diana Krall's "Love Scenes". She trying to serenade me into a lover's bliss:D

Carl

SCompRacer

schwarcw wrote: »

Damn! That article you attached makes my head hurt.

Try this one. I loaned my electrical folder out and the RACO name finally came back to me.

Once you decide how far away from the walls you will mount your fixtures, stretch a chalk line around screws in the ceiling joists at each end of the room and use it as a guide to keep your light bank straight. One other thing I did on my can lights was use construction adhesive to prevent the mounting hardware from vibrating. The typical can light for between joist mounting has a pair of sliding mounting rails on each side of the can frame. After you attach the rails to the studs, and they are positioned properly, use construction adhesive to glue the rails together and to the box. The trim rings are held in place with springs and you'd be surprised how they vibrate with different frequencies at high SPL's.

schwarcw

Much better! I can better understand this! Thanks Rich!

Carl

hearingimpared

schwarcw wrote: »

Much better! I can better understand this! Thanks Rich!

Carl

I'm glad you do cause when I read this thread I feel like I am in an Abbott & Costello or Marx Brother routine! LOL

reeltrouble1

I need alot of cans..........this is really going to be something. I think I will jump the ceiling fan off of a different line and just put the cans and sconces on the 20 amp line. I found the articles some nice light reading.......then I was a budding EE once......in a land far away a very long time ago.

RT1

reeltrouble1

I decided against using too many cans recessed into the ceiling and sofets, counterproductive, putting holes in something you are trying to seal and pressurize.

Speaking of sofets........I have built two of them to use as wire chases, break up standing waves and for aesthetic appeal. I will be double dry-walling the entire room. I am planning on using finished plywood, stained with crown to encase the sofets, which are 15 and 12 inches wide respectively, each has a 7 inch reveal.

So the question is should I:

Nail the ply directly to the sofet's frame..............not loving this thought.

Nail drywall first then encase the sofet's in ply........ seems better

Nail one drywall layer then glue another drywall layer, (like the walls and ceiling) then encase in the wood.

FYI---sound batting will be inside each sofet and in the ceiling above each sofet.

RT1

SCompRacer

Nail one drywall layer then glue another drywall layer, (like the walls and ceiling) then encase in the wood.

Why not just use drywall? Use the rounded Bullnose Corner Bead like I did on my soffit in the lighted lower level.

reeltrouble1

because........................ITS A WOODSHED...so its gotta have some wood, no not that kind of wood, tree wood...... actually, I saw a pic of one done this way and thought it looked very nice, a manley sort of thing, so a Manley would feel at home in such a room. Get it, a Manely with Wood and tubes of course...............a Freudian Paradise

I will be using the bull nose throughout the outer edges of the room though, it is very nice stuff.

RT1

SCompRacer

Sorry...I was just thinking of all that extra work you, I mean your sons, would be doing ...:p Nicely finished wood would be a great addition.


EDIT:

Ted, per our land line, pics of the room/can lights to give you an idea what they look like. Sorry it took so long.

The hallway is a 2.5 inch recessed can with a 30 watt bulb.

The 14' x 22' family room has eight cans, 4" 75 watt flood bulbs. Two banks of four on seperate dimmer switch. It is not task lighting, and wasn't spec'd that way.

The fireplace has two small eyeball spots. 50 watt halogen, on dimmers.

The other shot is one I found somewhere that shows small eyeballs mounted in a soffit.

reeltrouble1

they owe me big:;) cool: ...............waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa:D , well my super duper expert building supply dude just came up with a wall system that is going to save some dough yet still to the trick for soundproofing,

sound bat
sound wooly wood board
green glue
drywall

sans the resilent channel or padded lead tape

of course some wood for the WoodShed

allright all the framing is finally done, so next is???????

wire electrical and speaker???
can and fixtures placement rough in?????
speaker install
wall system

hell I dunno anymore........................confused


RT1

disneyjoe7

We want progress pictures damn it.

steveinaz

HT/Surround sound encompasses all that which is evil and wrong.

....carry on....

reeltrouble1

Dont worry Steve,not jumping ship I am two channel to the core, HT is a family thing, watching movies together, laughing it up, holding my grandbabes on my lap and all that.

This is not going to be an "ordinary" thing, Polk has hit a real home run with somethings I am doing and guiding me along this path, I just don't want to spill all the beans just yet.

My long term plan includes two exclusive listening rooms.

Disney, I give you the promise first, the pledge and then..........see you soon bud.

disneyjoe7

Ok Ted understand your surprise factor so NO PIX's...

See ya soon Disney out.

reeltrouble1

what all there is now is 2X4's, the bones are done, slow and steady Teddy..........if only I could quit procrastinating over every little detail.......I spent all day looking at light fixtures, you know how many damm kind of effin light fixtures they have now....sure keep it simple I say.........then WOW look at some this shite they make.......tons of it to sift through.

RT1

hearingimpared

reeltrouble1 wrote: »

what all there is now is 2X4's, the bones are done, slow and steady Teddy..........if only I could quit procrastinating over every little detail.......I spent all day looking at light fixtures, you know how many damm kind of effin light fixtures they have now....sure keep it simple I say.........then WOW look at some this shite they make.......tons of it to sift through.

RT1

Not true. . .look at the price tags. . .that narrows the field quickly.

engtaz

disneyjoe7 wrote: »

We want progress pictures damn it.

Please pretty please with sugar on top and a Cherry LOL

reeltrouble1

So this project continues....................... some shots of the low voltage transformers, isolated circuit, leutron dimmer boxes, and one of the Polk Performance enclosures................

RT1

reeltrouble1

and moving along............low voltage wire drops, low voltage/line voltage interface box, wire wire everywhere, I have pulled over 300 ft of just speaker cable, plus 100 ft of low voltage and I cannot say even say how much line voltage from the new sub-panel.

The Celotex sound board will be covered with extra long wallboard to minimize seams all of which are staggered each seam still gets filled with acoustical sealent, I used a two layers of sound board on the ceiling, there is two layers of sound bat insulation in the ceiling and walls which the sound board covers.

I keep telling myself this will get done, we hope to complete the wallboard this weekend.

RT1

Ricardo

Looking good....better have your slaves hurry up or it won't be ready for the fest

disneyjoe7

Looking good

BTW with all that wiring looks like you have gone mad :eek: