Subwoofer Plate Amp Opinions

VR3
VR3 Posts: 28,732
edited March 2007 in DIY, Mods & Tweaks
I am debating between two plate amps for my VMPS subs.

Both of them have the crossover defeat that I need.

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-806

http://www.madisound.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi?cart_id=4669957.25707&pid=452

To me the, Kiega would be the BEST match - considering the sub is 300 watts RMS and the Dayton is 500 watts. However I know watts mean nothing.

The Kiega is Class AB and the Dayton is Class G. Apparently Class G has excellent bass control - I do not know.

What are your thoughts?
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on
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Comments

  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited February 2007
    Don't get a plate amp.
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited February 2007
    RuSsMaN wrote:
    Don't get a plate amp.
    Ditto what he said.

    You can probably find a used Crown K1 or K2 amp (no cooling fans) for the price of two plate amps. throw in a Paradigm X-30 crossover if you need one. The crown would be a much better amp and a much better investment than a plate amp.
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited February 2007
    Well, I asked my electrical engineering professor...

    The Dayton is a better match because it has servo controlled output, which means that it receives feedback from the woofer and delivers output accordingly.

    Class G also provides better bass control than other types of amplifiers. They are extremely efficient and have low THD for subwoofer applications.

    Edit: I can provide some kind of a schematic to describe what I am talking about. Basically Class G is a better choice over a class AB amp for subs. (Verified by my professor and also two electrical engineering textbooks)
    polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
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  • McLoki
    McLoki Posts: 5,231
    edited February 2007
    appadv wrote:
    Edit: I can provide some kind of a schematic to describe what I am talking about. Basically Class G is a better choice over a class AB amp for subs. (Verified by my professor and also two electrical engineering textbooks)
    Perhaps has less issues with subs due to their inherant design, but I would throw a BS flag for any banket statment that states class of amp is better than another just due to the way that class works.

    I have never thought of replacing my amp (that is currently running my sub) with a plate amp. I would love to hear my SVS compared to another 25-31 that is powered by a plate amp though. (opus - are you listening???)

    Michael
    Mains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
    Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
    Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
    Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
    Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
    Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2007
    Getting a seperate amp and the seperate crossovers just isnt a very budget friendly method unfortunately. Atleast from what Ive seen. I definitely agree it would be a better method.

    I really dont want to sink more than 500 total in the amps, shipped.

    I need two channels, two crossovers, two phase switches, two crossover defeat switches with atleast 2 inputs.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2007
    What about mounting the amps in an enclosure - away from the subwoofer to reduce its exposure to vibrations?
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • dkg999
    dkg999 Posts: 5,647
    edited February 2007
    Couldn't you just split the output of the Paradigm X-30 into each channel of the Crown amp to power both subs? I use an Outlaw ICBM that has dual sub outputs to cross-over the bass in my HT system to my two SVS subs. I've seen used X-30's go for $45 to $85.
    DKG999
    HT System: LSi9, LSiCx2, LSiFX, LSi7, SVS 20-39 PC+, B&K 507.s2 AVR, B&K Ref 125.2, Tripplite LCR-2400, Cambridge 650BD, Signal Cable PC/SC, BJC IC, Samsung 55" LED

    Music System: Magnepan 1.6QR, SVS SB12+, ARC pre, Parasound HCA1500 vertically bi-amped, Jolida CDP, Pro-Ject RM5.1SE TT, Pro-Ject TubeBox SE phono pre, SBT, PS Audio DLIII DAC
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited February 2007
    McLoki wrote:
    Perhaps has less issues with subs due to their inherant design, but I would throw a BS flag for any banket statment that states class of amp is better than another just due to the way that class works.

    To a large extent, Class G works better for subwoofer applicatons due to design, however I agree with you in sayiing that not all Class G amps are better than another just due to design...

    From an engineering standpoint, Class G amps are extremely efficient, have very low distortion at low frequencies, and are quite responsive.

    Now there are exceptions to the rule...
    polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
    polkaudio 255c-RT Inwalls
    polkaudio DSWPro550WI
    polkaudio XRT12 XM Tuner
    polkaudio RM6750 5.1

    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2007
    If I was running straight LFE - splitting one large amp would work best...

    However, I am running right and left stereo subs. So I really need that versatility to mess with phase, crossover, etc etc.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • SLOCOOKN
    SLOCOOKN Posts: 704
    edited February 2007
    I would go one sub at a time. You might find you like the sound of the VMPS with just one sub. If you wanted to add the second sub later what a great option. You should give the sub every option to amaze you. The VMPS is a great sub and you will never know until you power it right.

    Where is RUSsMan with his speach....Audio gear is a luxury....bla bla bal by the best and one up!!!!!!

    Cmon' Trey do the right thing. My carver is 380 wpc and the vmps loves all the power!!!
    :eek: From the bottom it looks like a steep incline, From the top another down hill slope of mine.:mad: But I know the equilibrium's there!:cool: .."Faith No More" :D
    Sony cx985v (for now)
    BBE 482i
    B&K AVP 1030
    Adcom GFA 555 mk 2
    AudioQuest Crystal 2 spk wire
    Nordost RCA
    SDA 3.1 tl RD0 tweets
    Belkin pf60
    Carver TFM 55x
    Signal Analog 2 RCA
    AudioQuestType 4
    VMPS Original Tall Boy (Mega Woofers soon)
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited February 2007
    RuSsMaN wrote:
    Don't get a plate amp.

    Sid, didn't you hear what Russ said? Forget about a plate amp. Do it right or don't do it at all. I realize VMPS uses slightly modified PE plate amps, but you'll want better quality.

    At least get a pro amp to power your subs along with an external crossover.

    I went from a very good plate amp (Rhythmik Audio) to using a single channel on a pro amp (Behringer A500) and it was a huge leap in sound improvement.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • hoosier21
    hoosier21 Posts: 4,413
    edited February 2007
    Paradigm X-30 has stereo inputs and outputs for the high pass, the low pass signal is summed for 1 or 2 subs outputs. There is volume knob and a variable phase that controls sub 2 output. These are 100-120 or so used.

    Add an amp and bingo.

    Outlaw ICBM is good for crossover and it has a level adjustment also, no phase adjustments.

    Russ
    Dodd - Battery Preamp
    Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
    Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
    ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
    DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
    Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
    Outlaw ICBM - crossover
    Beringher BFD - sub eq

    Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!

    "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited February 2007
    I'm driving my SVS sub with a Rythmik Audio 350A plate amp. It sounds great.

    http://www.rythmikaudio.com/nonservo_product.htm
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited February 2007
    jakelm wrote:
    I'm driving my SVS sub with a Rythmik Audio 350A plate amp. It sounds great.

    I had the 250SE version. The pro amp sounds better for roughly the same cost. You can get a decent brand new pro amp for $169.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited February 2007
    What about mounting the amps in an enclosure - away from the subwoofer to reduce its exposure to vibrations?

    I did that already. It didn't matter.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited February 2007
    Early B. wrote:
    I had the 250SE version. The pro amp sounds better for roughly the same cost. You can get a decent brand new pro amp for $169.

    While I agree Early, I stil prefer the crossover and rumble filter built on the plate amp. And not rellying on the AVR. And the plate amp is on the sub, out of the way, another shelf is not needed.
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited February 2007
    jakelm wrote:
    While I agree Early, I stil prefer the crossover and rumble filter built on the plate amp. And not rellying on the AVR. And the plate amp is on the sub, out of the way, another shelf is not needed.

    Good points.

    Sid is dealing with stereo subs for the purpose of improved sound quality. If he uses plate amps, he compromises the bass quality and defeats the purpose of what he's trying to achieve. If he were using the subs strictly for HT, it wouldn't be a big issue, but since Sid has elevated his game to much higher end gear, he needs to stay consistent and not get cheap all of a sudden with effin' plate amps. That's a step backwards. What's next, Sid -- Monster cables?
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • SLOCOOKN
    SLOCOOKN Posts: 704
    edited February 2007
    jakelm wrote:
    While I agree Early, I stil prefer the crossover and rumble filter built on the plate amp. And not rellying on the AVR. And the plate amp is on the sub, out of the way, another shelf is not needed.

    I use my avr filtering at 90 hrz. I have great results. I am very lucky. My avr has 2 sub out feeding into the TFM left and right. AudioQuest spk wire to the two subs in the same cabinet and it sounds great! I can control the sub level from a button on the avr remote is a plus. :)
    :eek: From the bottom it looks like a steep incline, From the top another down hill slope of mine.:mad: But I know the equilibrium's there!:cool: .."Faith No More" :D
    Sony cx985v (for now)
    BBE 482i
    B&K AVP 1030
    Adcom GFA 555 mk 2
    AudioQuest Crystal 2 spk wire
    Nordost RCA
    SDA 3.1 tl RD0 tweets
    Belkin pf60
    Carver TFM 55x
    Signal Analog 2 RCA
    AudioQuestType 4
    VMPS Original Tall Boy (Mega Woofers soon)
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2007
    Dangit.

    I knew I shouldnt have asked.

    Grrrr.

    Paradigm X30 and... hmm, maybe a Crown XLS amp.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • ledhed
    ledhed Posts: 1,088
    edited February 2007
    Look at the RBH sub amps. We got the 200 watt one with a sub for a stellar price (like $250). I believe you can defeat the crossover, has phase and looks really good :)
    God shows his love for us in that while we were still sinners, Christ died for us. - Romans 5:8
  • jakelm
    jakelm Posts: 4,081
    edited February 2007
    Early B. wrote:
    Good points.

    Sid is dealing with stereo subs for the purpose of improved sound quality. If he uses plate amps, he compromises the bass quality and defeats the purpose of what he's trying to achieve. If he were using the subs strictly for HT, it wouldn't be a big issue, but since Sid has elevated his game to much higher end gear, he needs to stay consistent and not get cheap all of a sudden with effin' plate amps. That's a step backwards. What's next, Sid -- Monster cables?

    Early, I respect your opinion. But I disagree in the fact that he will compromise his sound quality with a plate amp. Plate amps are built for the soul purpose of a subwoofer. They are built to handle the demand of power a sub asks for. If he was shopping for mains (full range) speakers, then yes, no question. But for the sub, I believe a good plate amp works just as well, if not better, than a pro or home amp.

    Phase might be another issue Sid may have. Especially with 2 subs at once. I dont think (I might be wrong) a pro amp has the capability to adjust phase. Unless you reverse the positive and negative.

    But I stand by my original thought, seperate plate amps for seperate subs would do just fine.
    Jake

    P.S And there is nothing wrong with Monster cables,.....LOL..:D
    Monitor 7b's front
    Monitor 4's surround
    Frankinpolk Center (2 mw6503's with peerless tweeter)
    M10's back surround
    Hafler-200 driving patio Daytons
    Tempest-X 15" DIY sub w/ Rythmik 350A plate amp
    Dayton 12" DVC w/ Rythmik 350a plate amp
    Harman/Kardon AVR-635
    Oppo 981hd
    Denon upconvert DVD player
    Jennings Research (vintage and rare)
    Mit RPTV WS-55513
    Tosh HD-XA1
    B&K AV5000


    Dont BAN me Bro!!!!:eek:
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited February 2007
    Sid, I have an X-30 I can sell you..... ;)
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited February 2007
    Vr3MxStyler2k3,

    There is absolutely nothing wrong with using a plate amp for this application. Although pro amps may provide better sound quality, it is too much trouble IMO to go through an external crossover.

    The purpose of the plate amp is to provide flexibility in your setup, in which a crossover defeat, LFE direct in, etc. are available.
    polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
    polkaudio 255c-RT Inwalls
    polkaudio DSWPro550WI
    polkaudio XRT12 XM Tuner
    polkaudio RM6750 5.1

    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
  • RuSsMaN
    RuSsMaN Posts: 17,987
    edited February 2007
    It's no trouble at all, it's one more set of interconnects. That's all.
    Check your lips at the door woman. Shake your hips like battleships. Yeah, all the white girls trip when I sing at Sunday service.
  • Serendipity
    Serendipity Posts: 6,975
    edited February 2007
    I might be wrong, but the plate amps should be well matched to use in subwoofer applications. Why does using plate amps compromise the sound quality?
    polkaudio RT35 Bookshelves
    polkaudio 255c-RT Inwalls
    polkaudio DSWPro550WI
    polkaudio XRT12 XM Tuner
    polkaudio RM6750 5.1

    Front projection, 2 channel, car audio... life is good!
  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited February 2007
    Trey,

    Work a deal with your manager to test some of the pro-audio gear that you sell on a daily basis, with your subs, once they arrive. No harm in asking.

    DG
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2007
    Russ are you for real?
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,732
    edited February 2007
    well, tommorow when I go into work I am going to check out the Crown XTi1000 and see how much fan noise it has.

    if it isn't significant to me, Ill see about taking it home and giving it a go.

    And the Paradigm X 30 for the crossover. Thanks Russ.
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited February 2007
    well, tommorow when I go into work I am going to check out the Crown XTi1000 and see how much fan noise it has.

    if it isn't significant to me, Ill see about taking it home and giving it a go.

    And the Paradigm X 30 for the crossover. Thanks Russ.
    Just keep in mind that you can always swap out the fans with fans that are much more quiet. I bought the pro amp that powers my sub used and the guy had already switched out the fans. They're pretty quiet now.
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • hoosier21
    hoosier21 Posts: 4,413
    edited February 2007
    tryrrthg wrote:
    They're pretty quiet now.

    What is pretty quiet?

    When I used a pro amp, fan noise was a problem, so I am interested in these quiet fans.
    Dodd - Battery Preamp
    Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
    Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
    ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
    DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
    Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
    Outlaw ICBM - crossover
    Beringher BFD - sub eq

    Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!

    "I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..."