glue or solder ?

happierears
happierears Posts: 19
edited January 2007 in Basic Hookup/Wiring Questions
sda 1.2tl : glued wire came loose from tweeter connections. soldering melts speaker wires. what can I do? who would know what kind of glue was used for this connection? :confused::confused: ...#8
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,678
    edited January 2007
    What glued wire are you talking about?
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  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,780
    edited January 2007
    If you are talking about the wire from the voice coil to the spade connector, all connections are soldered on mine. I you are melting the wire, you are using a soldering iron with too high of wattage.
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited January 2007
    hmmm...second thread with the same glue question today, same speaker...

    No....no.. I REFUSE to believe they glued the wires to the tweeters.
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  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited January 2007
    Good evening gentlemen,

    Attached are a series of pictures showing the inside and outside of an SL3000 tweeter. The tweeter terminals are glued to a flat, square hard plastic plate. The plate at first glance appears to be dark metal, but it is plastic.

    Picture 1. SL3000 Front View.
    Picture 2. SL3000 Rear View.
    Picture 3. SL3000 Front Plate Removed.
    Picture 4. SL3000 Front Of Voice Coil And Terminal Assembly.
    Picture 5. SL3000 Rear Of Voice Coil And Terminal Assembly.
    Picture 6. SL3000 Magnet Assembly.


    The question I would pose now is what happened to make the tweeter terminal in question separate from the plastic plate?
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  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited January 2007
    HTrookie wrote:
    No....no.. I REFUSE to believe they glued the wires to the tweeters.

    Good news: The wires are soldered to metal terminals. The terminals are glued to a hard plastic plate. Better?
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited January 2007
    oh.....that connection :)
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  • Deadof_knight
    Deadof_knight Posts: 980
    edited January 2007
    Using a pin point or very small pointed solder iron "typical weller 30-35 watt" that is "clean" will melt the solder fast, Clean clean clean , with the oxidation build up it takes longer to melt thus heating up the wire melting the plastic or rubber coating. Using a high quality silver solder (small gauge solder) and feeding the tip as you touch the new joint will help remelt the old solder . Tin your tip real good prior then touch the desired spot and use a alligator clip ,helps greatly holding these lil buggers together without burning you. Then once soldered use some cold spray or contact cleaner (away from the solder iron of course) on the new joint to cool it or you can lay a wet paper towel on the side you want to stay cool and the wet paper towel will draw the heat out saving your wire.

    Soldering is about the joint alone not the wire... use of solder wick and a good quality flux can make all the difference in the world. The cleaner things are the better things will go..... period
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  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited January 2007
    Excellent advice.
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  • Ricardo
    Ricardo Posts: 10,636
    edited January 2007
    from knight to knight......period.
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