My tip of the day...

VR3
VR3 Posts: 28,567
edited December 2006 in The Clubhouse
For all those wanting to install a hardwood floor...anywhere...

Work from doorways over, not from over to doorways...

Because when you are working with locking joints, intricate cuts - its just a pain....

Im about to pull my hair out......

But, good news is - once I get this small piece in... it will be relatively smooth sailing...

Scary thing is, I wasnt having such a hard time getting one piece together and had to apply so much force the entire floor moved... with me, a tv, computer, and 8 planks on top of it like nothing... but I got it back in square with a lil more opposing floor...

Ah well, just sharing some wealth of knowledge for those thinking about getting those vinyl, interlocking wood floor planks thingys...

They are easy, until you get into the intricate cuts to where the lifting up locking isnt possible... you gotta pretty much beat the piss out of these things to get them to go together with both are flat...
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
Post edited by VR3 on
· Share on FacebookShare on Twitter

Comments

  • Dennis Gardner
    Dennis Gardner Posts: 4,861
    edited December 2006
    I notch the trim, not the flooring, so only 2 cuts are required to enter the doorway, nothing intricate.
    HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable

    2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Fireman32
    Fireman32 Posts: 4,845
    edited December 2006
    Trey, I dont start at the doorways. I start at a wall and make sure that i get the first row straight and then when i get to the doorway I do what Dennis said and notch the trim.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,567
    edited December 2006
    I cut out the door frame bottoms..

    But what happens is, its interlocking tounge and groove - and when put in tight spaces, its incredibly hard to "snap together" so to speak...

    Took me about 2 hours to put down 2 whole rows (16" wide, 10.5' long) - which is rediculous, I put down 70% of the room in that time, but no tight spaces...

    I wish I would of started it a bit different...

    The rest will be easier, will do it tommorow... Im beat, I feel sorry for the Amish...

    Im using a hand saw and a jigsaw for this entire project, haha...
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • WilliamM2
    WilliamM2 Posts: 4,771
    edited December 2006
    I'm with Dennis. We pulled the doors and trim right out, then after flooring, put the doors and trim back on, but we were also installing new trim anyways.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,567
    edited December 2006
    Eh, no way Im pulling the trim and frames out... wow, way to much work.. hehe

    Im just having problems since I am trying to integrate the closet into the same floor, and its involving some intricate cutting... but I got the hard part over with... haha
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Fireman32
    Fireman32 Posts: 4,845
    edited December 2006
    Being that you have to leave a 1/4 inch gap for expansion you either have to reinstall the trim or put 1/4 inch round trim down to cover the gap.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,567
    edited December 2006
    Im putting the round over trim down...

    But I put the wood under the door frames, which still has a gap - but... it looks good since you cant see the subfloor... thats why its difficult, Im putting the floor under the doors and I cant lift up on the planks to put them together, so I have to slide them together which isnt their exact design by far... hehe
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Fireman32
    Fireman32 Posts: 4,845
    edited December 2006
    I understand completley Trey. The last row is always a ****. The last floor I did for a friend of mine had some inricate cuts by the doorway and one wall was bowed out. I started the first row at the bowed wall and made alot of cuts on the first row so it was nice and straight. The first row took about 2 hours with all of the measuring that had to be done. The rest of the floor took about the same time. When we got to the last couple of rows we hit a doorway that was on a angle and required some thinking to get everything to fit right. On the last row we had to cut the planks down so we could fit it. Since we were putting down round trim we cut just enough so we can snap it in without to much difficulty and cover the gap with the trim. Hope this helps.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • VR3
    VR3 Posts: 28,567
    edited December 2006
    Yeah, thanks for the advice...

    Ive pretty much got everything in my room installed, all I have left is the closet - which will be incredibly easy in comparison...

    Cant wait for it to be done... once I get the molding attached - all I will have to do is do a LIL touch up paint where my hammer marred the trim.... then all will be done - will take pics of the room completely empty... Im very happy with how it looks so far... :)
    - Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • Fireman32
    Fireman32 Posts: 4,845
    edited December 2006
    Glad to hear it bud. Cant wait to see the pics of it.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited December 2006
    ^^^ What he said :)
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • swchma
    swchma Posts: 49
    edited December 2006
    Wtf?
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited December 2006
    swchma wrote:
    Wtf?
    WTF is your problem? You start something in a different thread and bail: link

    You trying to start something here too or have you learned your lesson?
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter
  • bobman1235
    bobman1235 Posts: 10,822
    edited December 2006
    He hasn't learned his lesson, he's a troll, he'll be gone soon.
    If you will it, dude, it is no dream.
    · Share on FacebookShare on Twitter