To Spade or Not To Spade

beardog03
beardog03 Posts: 5,550
edited December 2006 in 2 Channel Audio
I just spoke with a gentleman about purchasing some speaker cables, and he said that not only is it best to get the same termination at both ends of the cable....it is also best to go with spades, as they are a better conecton than nanners...

I`m not trying to start a friggin debate, just want some input/opinions..

is he just yankin my cable ?.....so ta speak (er)
Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)

:cool:
Post edited by beardog03 on
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Comments

  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited December 2006
    They are. Nanna's are OK if you plan on doing alot of switching, but spades get better contact.

    My biggun's got spades...
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  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited December 2006
    I also noticed that nanners don`t go all the way into Lsi`s

    at least my nanner won`t go all the way in..!!
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)

    :cool:
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  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited December 2006
    I ain't got that problem.:p
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  • beardog03
    beardog03 Posts: 5,550
    edited December 2006
    maybe if I spit on it.....
    Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
    Parasound HCA-3500
    Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
    Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
    Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
    Jolida JD-100 CDP
    Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
    SVS PC-Ultra Sub
    AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
    MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
    AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
    PS Audio Plus Power Cords
    Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
    Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
    Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)

    :cool:
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  • dudeinaroom
    dudeinaroom Posts: 3,609
    edited December 2006
    use ky, it doesn't dry out as fast and prevent corrosion. and if you want warmer mids, use the ky warming gel:D
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  • PolkWannabie
    PolkWannabie Posts: 2,763
    edited December 2006
    beardog03 wrote:
    I also noticed that nanners don`t go all the way into Lsi`s

    at least my nanner won`t go all the way in..!!
    Push HARDER ...
    Rick
    HT+ Sunfire TG IV, Dual CG Sig II's, CinePro 1K2, Oppo 981, Audio Technica PL120, Polk SRT's & F/X1000's, Samsung 71" DLP
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    edited December 2006
    If spades are all that, then why don't IC's come with them?
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • amulford
    amulford Posts: 5,020
    edited December 2006
    How would you run two signal paths with a spade?
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  • zombie boy 2000
    zombie boy 2000 Posts: 6,641
    edited December 2006
    I might be in the minority here, but I loathe spades. I've never been able to get the posts tight enough, and with heavier cables, it just seems that the connections are getting weaker by the minute. As such, I hate crawling behind everything on what seems like an almost daily basis just to tighten everything up.

    And to be even more shallow, I just think nanners look cooler.

    Or maybe it's a phallic thing.
    I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore
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  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited December 2006
    I'm not sure that the last 1" of termination is going to make much difference if it's a high quality connector. I've had both banana & spade, never really noticed any difference in sound quality. Banana's are a heck of alot more convenient, but then again, I don't ever swap equipment (or do so rarely). My Kimber 8TC are terminated w/Kimber's copper spades.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
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  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited December 2006
    zombie boy 2000 wrote:
    I might be in the minority here, but I loathe spades. I've never been able to get the posts tight enough, and with heavier cables, it just seems that the connections are getting weaker by the minute. As such, I hate crawling behind everything on what seems like an almost daily basis just to tighten everything up.

    And to be even more shallow, I just think nanners look cooler.

    Or maybe it's a phallic thing.

    You're correct.
    Spades are for old timers whose heyday was the pre-banana era.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
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  • polkatese
    polkatese Posts: 6,767
    edited December 2006
    I use the combo throughout, nanners on the amp side (for reasons ZB mentioned) and spade on the speaker side, for reason that I don't like the cable protruding (added a couple of inches of extra clearance space).
    I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
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  • zombie boy 2000
    zombie boy 2000 Posts: 6,641
    edited December 2006
    That the thing polka...

    with any set-up I've ever had, I always felt there was a bit more exposed with the spades. Maybe they were just too large, or the binding posts were too small..
    I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore
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  • Emlyn
    Emlyn Posts: 4,489
    edited December 2006
    Never noticed a difference with either PS Audio or MIT switching between spades and bananas. Bananas are just easier to use. One problem with spades and binding posts is they come in different sizes and may actually provide less conductive contact area than a good set of bananas. Occasionally, if a banana plug doesn't fit snugly into the binding post with a decent amount of contact area or I need to limit the protrusion out the back of an amp to avoid the wall, I'll switch to spades.
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  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,552
    edited December 2006
    amulford wrote:
    How would you run two signal paths with a spade?


    Dammit, you caught that, eh!?!

    How about two jacks, one for each path. ;)
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."

    President of Club Polk

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  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited December 2006
    zombie boy 2000 wrote:
    I might be in the minority here, but I loathe spades. I've never been able to get the posts tight enough, and with heavier cables, it just seems that the connections are getting weaker by the minute. As such, I hate crawling behind everything on what seems like an almost daily basis just to tighten everything up.

    And to be even more shallow, I just think nanners look cooler.

    Or maybe it's a phallic thing.

    Me too. I like bananas better. I have never noticed a sound difference.
    Sharp Elite 70
    Anthem D2V 3D
    Parasound 5250
    Parasound HCA 1000 A
    Parasound HCA 1000
    Oppo BDP 95
    Von Schweikert VR4 Jr R/L Fronts
    Von Schweikert LCR 4 Center
    Totem Mask Surrounds X4
    Hsu ULS-15 Quad Drive Subwoofers
    Sony PS3
    Squeezebox Touch

    Polk Atrium 7s on the patio just to keep my foot in the door.
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  • DarqueKnight
    DarqueKnight Posts: 6,765
    edited December 2006
    zombie boy 2000 wrote:
    I might be in the minority here, but I loathe spades. I've never been able to get the posts tight enough, and with heavier cables, it just seems that the connections are getting weaker by the minute. As such, I hate crawling behind everything on what seems like an almost daily basis just to tighten everything up.

    This shouldn't be a problem with high quality binding posts. It certainly isn't a problem with my all-metal Vampire and Cardas binding posts. Once I tighten them down, they stay tight. The stock binding posts on my SDA's, which had flimsy plastic retaining nuts, would get loose over time, which is one of the reasons I replaced them.

    The binding posts of my big Adcom amps (GFA-5500, GFA-5802) have large slotted plastic retaining nuts. The retaining nuts are turned tight by placing a quarter in the slots. Once they are tightened down, they stay tight.
    Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
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  • zombie boy 2000
    zombie boy 2000 Posts: 6,641
    edited December 2006
    I think its more an issue of the size of either the spades or binding posts in my case. Two much of the spade connector peeking out the sides, if you catch my drift.
    I never had it like this where I grew up. But I send my kids here because the fact is you go to one of the best schools in the country: Rushmore. Now, for some of you it doesn't matter. You were born rich and you're going to stay rich. But here's my advice to the rest of you: Take dead aim on the rich boys. Get them in the crosshairs and take them down. Just remember, they can buy anything but they can't buy backbone. Don't let them forget it. Thank you.Herman Blume - Rushmore
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