building your own sub?

MSALLA · October 2006

I didn't e-mail them yet ( I will before I cut the tube) but I read the dim. of the 20-39 off the site. I was going to mount a plywood ring at the bottom for the driver because of the fact of MDf not holding on to any threaded object. I was also going to use threaded inserts in the 3/4" ply I have. Just incase I have to replace the driver, no chance of oblong holes from taking the screws in & out.

Thanks for the link. I will post more after the driver comes in and I start building. Thanks for all the help and putting up with all my questions.

Deadof_knight · October 2006

Almost all car speakers as in the woofers are not very efficient like most of the home designs....... so it takes more power to run them as well. The same theories work, you can get some monster bass out some of them but it will take some time and patience.

MSALLA · October 2006

I asked about that earlier and was told they were not made to pressurize a large room. I was looking at JL 12w7 but the price was way to high. goodman audio had on that was orderd and not picked up and want 500.00 for it after the discount.

Ron-P · October 2006

of course, neighbors might be able to hear your garage rattling, who knows

Exactly why I won't do IB ohskigod. I want to contain the sound inside the theater.

MSALLA · October 2006

Well, I e-mailed SVS last night, Tom is a great guy. I told him what driver I was using and the size of my tube w/ the end caps going into the tube about one inch. After asking me some questions, He came back with not cutting any of the tube off giving me 5.3 cu.ft. , 300W amp.,(1) 4" port 17" long. He said this will tune it for 16-18hz. and still give me the sound I need for music.

Grimster74 · October 2006

MSALLA, your driver will be shipping out today, Monday the 30th.

MSALLA · November 2006

Well, the tube is cut to 48" (it was 52"), the end caps are done, the driver is mounted and the base plate is cut. I just have to make the legs and wait for my order to come in from Parts Express. Bash 300 watt amp, 4" port, carpet spikes,black lamenated carpet for the sock, and daul terminal set-up.

RSTERN · November 2006

Keep us posted. Very interested how it turns out.
Rob

MSALLA · December 2006

Sorry I have not kept up on this but my time has been all taken up as of late. The sub is all together except for the sock and boxing the amp. I am toying with the idea of buying a pro type amp instead of using the plate amp after reading some othe posts.

Deadof_knight · December 2006

Now forgive my ingnorance but hertz are hertz so how could a car speaker be soooo different from a home speaker as far as pressurizing a room and not a car. maybe someone can explain this too me

MSALLA · December 2006

Deadof_knight wrote:

Now forgive my ingnorance but hertz are hertz so how could a car speaker be soooo different from a home speaker as far as pressurizing a room and not a car. maybe someone can explain this too me

Look on page 2 of this thread posted by Dennis Gardner.
I'm just starting out with the subs, so I don't really know.

MSALLA · February 2007

Ok, I'm done working doubles for a few weeks so I have time to finish this thing. I'm just about done. My question is, some of the plans posted on this thread show the inside of the tube insulated and some don't. Should I line the inside or not?

Deadof_knight · February 2007

lining reduces resonant frequencies. It never hurts but in some inclosures its not needed. Its said if you have any 90 degree walls you should line or stuff the box with a pound per cubic foot. if you use fiberglass you can staple it to the walls and keep it away from the speaker better. Kinds itchy though but works very well.

tryrrthg · February 2007

Just line the walls of the sonotube with some polyfil. You don't need a whole lot of fill for a ported sub (assuming that's what you built).

MSALLA · February 2007

I have rolls of 1" thick low density poly (like airfilter material). Would that work?

ben62670 · February 2007

Watch out using fiberglass. I am real sensitive to that stuff, and little particles become airborne through the ports.

I'm working on a project myself that I am going to finish with cherry veneer. Its very rewarding, but very time consuming.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48188

Enjoy
Ben

MSALLA · February 2007

ben62670 wrote:

Watch out using fiberglass. I am real sensitive to that stuff, and little particles become airborne through the ports.

I'm working on a project myself that I am going to finish with cherry veneer. Its very rewarding, but very time consuming.

http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48188

Enjoy
Ben

I work with fiberglass at my job. Not much fun. I think I'm going to use 2" thick poly and spry glue it to the inside. It's not very dense, so I think it will work well.

Deadof_knight · February 2007

As long as you keep fiberglass away from the port, you can also use the same stuff polk uses in there enclosures .I know my S8s came with the funky poly type fill and I bought a set off of ebay and DHL destroyed the boxes so I partem them out and used the poly fill in my boys sub boxes worked great.

Too bad you can just buy polk enclosures DIYs could rejoice!!

building your own sub?

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