SDA CRS+... bad tweeters
Joe Zemo
Posts: 8
Hello to all. My 2nd. post here.
I purchased a pair of CRS+'s last night and rushed home to hear them but was very disappointed to find that the tweeters are not working.
Took the tweeters out to inspect and everything looked ok so I guess they are cooked.
So I'm on the hunt for replacements or as I've been reading the upgrades from Polk, the RD0194-1.
I'm hoping it's just the tweets and not the crossovers or anything else.
Just posting to see if there's anything I might have missed, or that I can do and if I'm thinking right on this.
Thanks for any info.
I purchased a pair of CRS+'s last night and rushed home to hear them but was very disappointed to find that the tweeters are not working.
Took the tweeters out to inspect and everything looked ok so I guess they are cooked.
So I'm on the hunt for replacements or as I've been reading the upgrades from Polk, the RD0194-1.
I'm hoping it's just the tweets and not the crossovers or anything else.
Just posting to see if there's anything I might have missed, or that I can do and if I'm thinking right on this.
Thanks for any info.
Post edited by Joe Zemo on
Comments
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Joe, did you have the IC cable plugged in?polkaudio SRS (rdo194 x 8)
Dodd ELP (separate power supply)
JC 1 blocks ( strapped )
Rega Apollo
MIT (speaker cables) Outlaw (ICs)
polkaudio SDA2(rdo194x4) (front) polkaudio CRS (rdo194x4)(rear) polkaudio 400i (center)
B&K 505
Samsung LCD
VIP 622
HSU STF-2 -
Yes I did.
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Highly unlikely that it's the crossovers. Do you have a Multimeter?CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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No, but I can get one. What do I need to do?
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Just check for continuity or ohms....you'll know pretty quickly if it's in fact dead.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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Excuse me I was just going off of F1's previous post but since you have the plus you only have one tweeter anyway.
F1nut
Polk Guru
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: The Mars Hotel
Posts: 10,463
"Good point. Without the interconnect cable only one tweeter and two mid-drivers will play".polkaudio SRS (rdo194 x 8)
Dodd ELP (separate power supply)
JC 1 blocks ( strapped )
Rega Apollo
MIT (speaker cables) Outlaw (ICs)
polkaudio SDA2(rdo194x4) (front) polkaudio CRS (rdo194x4)(rear) polkaudio 400i (center)
B&K 505
Samsung LCD
VIP 622
HSU STF-2 -
Also, check the Polywitches, I don't thingk the CRS+'s have fuses. The Polyswitch is a tweeter protection device mounted on the crossover. It's thin, circular and about the size of a dime. See if you have continuity through it. It not, put a little jumper wire across it and see if you can get the tweeter to work. another way to check the tweeter is to remove it from the cabinent, and touch your speaker leads from the amp onto the tweeter post. Please do this at low volume. You want to establish whether or not the problem is with the tweeter or the wiring and/or crossover components.Carl
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Correct, there are no fuses on these guys.
So, if I hear something with the amp leads on the tweeter post then the problem is with the crossover/wiring.
Thanks, I'll try this.
What's the easiest way to get to the x-over? Take the MR's out?
When I took the tweeters out last night I saw the x-over but it was at the top of the cab and not very easy to get to through the tweeter hole. -
Hi Joe,
I never had the model you have but if the crossover isn't attached to the back of the binding post plate (like the monitor line) I'd think that taking out the passive radiator would be the way to go.
Wouldn't it be easier to hook the tweeters up to an amp and play something at a very low level to see if they're functioning?
Welcome to the club btwAudio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10 -
The crossover is not mounted to the binding post plate but you will notice an allen bolt on the rear of the cabinet....that's what holds the crossover. Remove the PR in order to remove the crossover.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
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So, I'm sitting listening to my Monitor 5's the other night with the grills off and thinking about the CRS+'s that need new tweeters when my eyes focus on the tweets in the 5's... DUH!!!!
Those look very much like the tweets in the CRS's, as a matter of fact exactly like them. (in hind sight, I now remember reading that Polk used these tweets in a lot of different models of their speakers.)
Take them out of the 5's and sure enough they say SL2000 on them.
Install them in the CRS's and VOILA...
This is one plus to having a cache of speakers waiting in the wings.
Still need to get a good pair of SL2000's but for now I get to listen to the CRS's.
One question... is it ok to take the interconnect cable out while the music playing? I want to see the difference with and without. -
It doesn't hurt to take it out while playing at moderate levels. Have someone else do it for you while you are listening to get an actual A/B comparison.
Glad it was only a driver issue.:DHT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable -
Congrats Joe! Now you can listen to the CRS+! Get the RD-0194 tweeters for them and you'll appreciate a nice change in the sound. The SL2000 is a little harsh. The RD-0194 is much smoother.Carl