What CD-R should I get?

crazy

Hi!

I'm planning to make a few CD collections in high quality and was wondering if you could suggest what CD-R can be used for high quality reproduction?

http://www.buy.com/retail/category.asp?loc=484

I'm planning to use EAC to burn these CDs.

From what I've heard - it is a good practice to burn these CDs at a low speed, i.e. 2x or 4x verses say 52x - is that right?

Thanks a lot!

lomic

If you want them to last more than 5-10 years without skipping you should pick up some Gold archival CD-R's. They're much more expensive than the 9 cent green discs, but they're rated for 100 years.

And yes, definitely burn at 2x. As I understand it higher speed does create more errors on the disc and even though the parity covers it, the more errors you have to start out with, the less able it will be able to cope with scratches or defects in the future.

Shizelbs

I've never had a problem burning at higher speeds, unless the speed exceeded the rec. max burn speed of the disc itself. But, if you are not in a giant hurry, burn at the lower speed, get less wobble in the disc and less worry to boot.

crazy

lomic wrote:

If you want them to last more than 5-10 years without skipping you should pick up some Gold archival CD-R's.

Thanks! Any specific brand that you might suggest? Is one CD company better than others? Such as is Verbatim better than TDK etc.?

Does anyone have experience ripping & burning CDs using EAC (exact audio copy)?

If yes, could you please post what setting you use to rip and burn CDs and get a high quality output.

Another quick question - if you create a compile CD, you often get songs at different volumes. How can you avoid this?

Thanks for all the feedback.

lomic

I've never used gold CD's myself, but I believe any company that would go through the trouble of making them will be up to snuff.

As for the volume problem, I thought most CD burning suites had auto equalization built in when making audio CD's, but maybe I'm just thinking about a program I used many years ago. I would imagine there's a free/shareware 3rd party application that can do this, but not sure. Because the file is being "processed" however, it may have some (slight) impact on the integrity of the track quality wise.

Danny Tse

I only use Japan-made CD-Rs, which limits me to Maxell Music Pro, certain Fuji CD-R's, and Sony CD-R's I found at Target.

I figure spend a little more for the CD-R is better than having a coaster.

halo

Nevermind. I think I got it.

Willow

there are many out there, I use nero most of the time, sometimes I use Alcohol 120%.
I burn at max speed, but I am now intrigued about lower speed to see if less errors occur.

F1nut

http://www.mofi.com/ The kings of the gold disc.

Willow

Now I am assuming that copying on the Fly from one disk to another would also benefit from lower speed.?

reeltrouble1

yea get them mofi F1 suggested ones they are excellent and the name is cool, mofi, ****, mofee, you hear me.

RT1

heiney9

Willow wrote:

Now I am assuming that copying on the Fly from one disk to another would also benefit from lower speed.?

I don't believe EAC has the option of copying on the fly. I don't recommend it because that's when things like burst errors can occur.

I use EAC to extract to the HD and then use Nero. I use Nero because it's compatible with DVD shrink. I haven't made either a CDR or DVDR coaster in over 2 years (since the new 'puter). I use TDK for cdr and Fuji for DVDR. I stuck with these because I have had zero issues and I can get them ridiculous cheap at BB when on sale.

I used to use Tao Yuden Japanese cdr's but stopped. Many feel the Japanese versions are better, I personally haven't found that to be true.

My .02c

H9