VS VR-2 Review
Comments
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Sorry Trey - I guess I just thought you were referring to your experience with DT when you made the comment about how it's "Amazing what a REAL* midbass can do".Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10 -
I was actually commenting on YOUR speakers and your comment on the bass response as I thought they used midbasses.
- Not Tom ::::::: Any system can play Diana Krall. Only the best can play Limp Bizkit. -
fredv wrote:Congrat to the new VR-2. If you happen to biamp them with the A23 and the TAD-60, please let us know how it goes.
- Sonic Impact on top with the Halo A23 on the bottom = plenty of bass but next to nothing in the high notes. Either the SI doesn't have enough power or the VR-2's aren't efficient enough. That little SI made both the RTA 11T's and 15TL's sing though.
- TAD-60 up top and the Halo A23 on the bottom. I tried both UL and triode on the TAD-60 and something just wasn't right. The music just seemed to be missing substance. It sounded OK but not as good as either amp all on it's own.
Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10 -
Deep 6 biamping, no need when you have solid components in the first place.
Biamping and biwiring are both novelties I tried many times.....and always went back to a standard configuration, sometimes more is less.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2 -
steveinaz wrote:Deep 6 biamping, no need when you have solid components in the first place.
The TAD-60 is a solid component. There isn't a TAD-120 so two TAD-60's in a biamp configuration do sound better than just one. I've heard the difference on a pair of Innersound's.Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
steveinaz wrote:Deep 6 biamping, no need when you have solid components in the first place.
Biamping and biwiring are both novelties I tried many times.....and always went back to a standard configuration, sometimes more is less.
"Speaking in Absolutes Indicates a Creator, politician, or jackass"
I happen to be on the other side of that fence of the single vs bi-amp issue. When done right, bi-amping or monoblocks can produce a far better sonic experience than any single amp. Of course, there will always be some instances where either extreme may be best.
Victor, I'm sure your bi-amping results were primarily influenced by trying to mix different type of gear together and lost that synergy you spoke of. You were trying to feed those crossovers with specific slopes with amps that act differently at those points. Alone, either sounds better. Try 2 TAD-60's and I'm sure you'll get a completely different result
edit...finished incomplete sentence. -
Yeah, I tried the same but just didn't mention. I biamped the Carver with the TAD-60 (ribbon) and the Mac (woofer). Somehow, the sound just didn't blend in and was unnatural for lack of better discription. The Carvers sound better with either amp along than both together. I suppose that's the synergy factor. Paul just sent me the fedex tracking numbers, so myTAD-1000's are on the way - just 2 more loooooong days!!!!
-fredv- -
fredv wrote:Paul just sent me the fedex tracking numbers, so myTAD-1000's are on the way - just 2 more loooooong days!!!!
:cool: I still have mine....:D
Two McAlisters on the AL-III's were awesome. Did you swap the woofies out of the AL's yet using larger gauge wiring to them?Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 * -
fredv - Are you going to be selling your TAD-60? If so I call dibbs!Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10 -
Rich,
I haven't swapped out the subs of the AL-III+'s but did replace the cable with some 10 gauge Belden speaker cables. The bass is tighter. I just couldn't believe the original tiny wire - it was not much beefier than the sign wire in my vintage tube amp!!! The new subs will be installed to the older brothers - AL-III, then they will meet my woman
Victor,
You will have the first say when I sell the TAD-60. For now, it is still a keeper because it has
an advantage over the 1000 - it is common ground and has incredible sound stage with the SDA 1.2TL. When mated to the 1.2TL, the TAD-60 really rocks the house
-fredv- -
Normanality wrote:"Speaking in Absolutes Indicates a Creator, politician, or jackass"
Nah, it indicates someone who has experienced it in just about every imaginable configuration--and did not note any gain in "fidelity" just a gain in credit card debt.
But then you also felt the VR-2 didn't have any bass extension, so maybe our ears just work differently.Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2