Recommendation for Subwoofer cable?
frdranger
Posts: 110
Hey gang,
I was wondering what could some of you recommend for a good subwoofer cable. I wanna replace the cheesey, small, cheap subwoofer cable that I'm currently using, that came with the Yamaha HTIB. I did have the Acoustic Research PR152 series in mind - its a reasonable price, and I'm using AR 16 guage wiring for the rest of my system. Does anyone else have any other recommendations that could help me notice a little more difference in the sub compared to what I'm using now? Thanks!!
I was wondering what could some of you recommend for a good subwoofer cable. I wanna replace the cheesey, small, cheap subwoofer cable that I'm currently using, that came with the Yamaha HTIB. I did have the Acoustic Research PR152 series in mind - its a reasonable price, and I'm using AR 16 guage wiring for the rest of my system. Does anyone else have any other recommendations that could help me notice a little more difference in the sub compared to what I'm using now? Thanks!!
My Living Room 3.1 config:
Toshiba 40RV525U
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR609
Center channel: Polk CS1
Front L/R: Paradigm Reference Studio 20
Subwoofer: Velodyne DPS-10
Rears: None
My Computer setup
Klipsch Pro Media 2.1 THX
Toshiba 40RV525U
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR609
Center channel: Polk CS1
Front L/R: Paradigm Reference Studio 20
Subwoofer: Velodyne DPS-10
Rears: None
My Computer setup
Klipsch Pro Media 2.1 THX
Post edited by frdranger on
Comments
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AR sub cable is fine. Parts Express also has a good priced sub cable. If you have extra F-Coaxial cable laying around, you can get the RCA adapter and Radshack and make your own for a real cheaply but very decent quality cable. My sub location for my family room required over 25 ft of sub cable. I made my own using the F-coaxial cable.
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kingtut wrote:AR sub cable is fine. Parts Express also has a good priced sub cable. If you have extra F-Coaxial cable laying around, you can get the RCA adapter and Radshack and make your own for a real cheaply but very decent quality cable. My sub location for my family room required over 25 ft of sub cable. I made my own using the F-coaxial cable.
Hmm, that doesn't sound like a bad idea. I'll look into that! Thanks for the tip!My Living Room 3.1 config:
Toshiba 40RV525U
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR609
Center channel: Polk CS1
Front L/R: Paradigm Reference Studio 20
Subwoofer: Velodyne DPS-10
Rears: None
My Computer setup
Klipsch Pro Media 2.1 THX -
FR, if the "difference" in the sub that you're looking for is stronger, cleaner, lower, etc. bass, there's no way that connecting a different cable to the sub can supply that, and the "cheesey, small, cheap" one that you're using now is likely doing its very simple job as well as can be. The basic design of the sub is of course relevant, but you can't change that without a new sub. What you can do is experiment with placement of the sub in your room (right in a corner is generally best unless the room is nearly square)and be sure that you've calibrated the sub level correctly and are using a suitable crossover frequency(80Hz is commonly suggested for good results).
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John K. wrote:FR, if the "difference" in the sub that you're looking for is stronger, cleaner, lower, etc. bass, there's no way that connecting a different cable to the sub can supply that, and the "cheesey, small, cheap" one that you're using now is likely doing its very simple job as well as can be. The basic design of the sub is of course relevant, but you can't change that without a new sub. What you can do is experiment with placement of the sub in your room (right in a corner is generally best unless the room is nearly square)and be sure that you've calibrated the sub level correctly and are using a suitable crossover frequency(80Hz is commonly suggested for good results).
I can roll with that but the cable is also important to get the signal there unchanged. The rg6 with F to RCA ends does work well. I have done it millions of times with good results. Higher end cables for subs seem to help smooth out the sound a bit. It's not night and day, well sometimes it is but depending on the caliber of your sub will suggest the quality of subcable to use.
I have demo'd sub cables in the past and actually found sonic differences. the cable has a very easy job to do with only tranporting limited frequencies.The coax design cables do work in most cases. I don't use on on my sub I use a Audioquest Subcable.
DanDan
My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time. -
I use Audioquest subcable as well and it does the job well. Also, I have made up my own RG6 cable with 2 RCA type connectors at the ends.
Did some experimenting with both cables and found RG6 cable gives me more reviling and at the same time softer bass for music. The Audioquest cable gives me deeper and more extended bass for movies.
GatorTheatre System 5.1
Sumsung HP-S5053 plasma
Receiver Denon AVR 3806 Pre/Pro
Parasound HCA 1500A amp (front L/R)
Parasound HCA 1000A amp (centre)
B & K AV5000 amp (bi-amp + surround)
Dynaco ST70 tube amp (Herbie HAL-O9)
polkaudio Lsi15 (Cherry) 2-channel
polkaudio Rti8 Front (Cherry)
polkaudio Csi5 Centre
polkaudio Rti6 Surround
polkaudio PSW1000 Subwoofer (Cherry)
Original A8T CD
Pioneer DV-275 DVD Player
MONSTER CABLE MP-HTS3500MKII Powercentre -
Try Cobalt Cable.
They make excellent stuff for the money. I use them all around.Sharp Elite 70
Anthem D2V 3D
Parasound 5250
Parasound HCA 1000 A
Parasound HCA 1000
Oppo BDP 95
Von Schweikert VR4 Jr R/L Fronts
Von Schweikert LCR 4 Center
Totem Mask Surrounds X4
Hsu ULS-15 Quad Drive Subwoofers
Sony PS3
Squeezebox Touch
Polk Atrium 7s on the patio just to keep my foot in the door. -
Hey, thanks for the replies and suggestions guys! I appreciate it!My Living Room 3.1 config:
Toshiba 40RV525U
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR609
Center channel: Polk CS1
Front L/R: Paradigm Reference Studio 20
Subwoofer: Velodyne DPS-10
Rears: None
My Computer setup
Klipsch Pro Media 2.1 THX -
Audio Advisor is offering Audioquest Black Thunder subwoofer cable for 60% off. I suspect these may be the same ones Dan is using. A single 2M cable for $57.50, 3M $77.50, 5M $117.50, etc.
Dan, are you using one or two cables?Carl -
It is true you can actually gain 3dB - 10dB by using both RCA jacks on the back of the subwoofer using a Y-splitter?My Living Room 3.1 config:
Toshiba 40RV525U
Receiver: Onkyo TX-NR609
Center channel: Polk CS1
Front L/R: Paradigm Reference Studio 20
Subwoofer: Velodyne DPS-10
Rears: None
My Computer setup
Klipsch Pro Media 2.1 THX -
frdranger wrote:It is true you can actually gain 3dB - 10dB by using both RCA jacks on the back of the subwoofer using a Y-splitter?
You gain 3 db of volume within the limits of the amp. If you ran a test with the volume knob at 12 oclock, it will be 3 db louder with 2 inputs compared to one input.
If your sub has enough gain to run into distortion, which most do, then it will run into distortion at the same volume as before, but it will be at a new lower point on the volume knob. Your amp runs out of power at the same output.
Higher levels of input don't always equal higher levels of output and unless your amps sensitivity was so low that it wasn't reaching its full output at full volume due to input/voltage mismatch, then the increase would be seen at the top end of the volume range too.HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable