Cool Running 2 Channel Amp Suggestions

Gaara
Gaara Posts: 2,415
edited August 2006 in Electronics
OK Polkies what it need is simple, a 2 channel amp or 2 mono blocks that run cool and can be had for below $500. Looks isn't that big of deal, power isn't a huge issue, they just have to run cool and be below $500.

I will be using these in my system with Gallo Due's, which are 8ohm speakers and will be crossed over at 60 or 80hz. These speakers are only rear surrounds in a 7.1 system, and are not used much. They will not be getting to much info since my system is not Dolby Prologic IIx enabled. I am currently using a Halo A23 which is warm when on and can get hot in use. I have it hooked up to a pair of LSi7s right now, which are 4 ohm, but it did the same thing when hooked up to my 8ohm Gallo Ref3s. This little amp sounds fantastic, but the heat is a issue so it must go.

So far from my reading I haven't came up with much, Class D amps seem to run cool but are a little pricey. Certain Rotel models seem to run cool, but thats all I have found. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Jared
Post edited by Gaara on

Comments

  • venomclan
    venomclan Posts: 2,467
    edited May 2006
    Hi Gaara,
    An amp/amps that will fit your budget and coolness are the Outlaw M200 mono's, they run very cool because they are class G after 80 watts. I had 3 of them stacked and they barely got warm. My Krell amp can cook a steak, but the Outlaws are chilly. They should be fine for surround use only.
    Venom
  • AndyGwis
    AndyGwis Posts: 3,655
    edited May 2006
    My smaller Carver TFM-6's run really cool. Not sure what makes them cool, but I had them stacked and they don't get warm at all. For two ($300 or so), they pump out 200wpc bridged into 8oms and would be good for fronts. I have one running mono for center channel right now, works great.

    If you want a bargain deal for amps to power those rears, let me know and we can talk about the carvers. I would even let you demo if you paid shipping should you return them.

    On the other hand, my ST-202 runs real warm.
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
  • AndyGwis
    AndyGwis Posts: 3,655
    edited May 2006
    If you are looking to move the Parasound, maybe we can swap (with possible cash consideration) for a while. I would love to audition the A23 against my b&k to see how it holds.

    Where are you located? If shipping is marginal, may be a good swap or cheap experiment. PM me sometime.
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited May 2006
    Another vote for the Outlaws. You can set a beer on top of them to keep it cold.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited May 2006
    Yup, Outlaws don't get even slightly warm!
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • del44
    del44 Posts: 686
    edited May 2006
    The Rotel RB1070 is a cool running amp. They can be had on the bay or audiogon for under $500. 130 per channel and the good looks are an added bonus.:D
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited May 2006
    Sonic Impact. Doesn't get warm at all imo. The sound is clean and the price is right. Just make sure you have a 1A wall wort ac adaptor to power it.
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • Lsi9
    Lsi9 Posts: 616
    edited May 2006
    I reccomend Marantz Monoblocks

    Audio Physic Scorpio II
    Pathos Logos
    MIT Shotgun S3
    Bada HD-22 CDP
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited May 2006
    Halo wrote:
    Sonic Impact. Doesn't get warm at all imo. The sound is clean and the price is right. Just make sure you have a 1A wall wort ac adaptor to power it.

    Also make sure you have the original box to pack it right back up.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited May 2006
    dorokusai wrote:
    Also make sure you have the original box to pack it right back up.
    Don't be a hater :p Russ & Chuck (among others) know what that little sucker can do! ;)
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • schwarcw
    schwarcw Posts: 7,341
    edited May 2006
    Jared,

    I upgraded the power cable on my Halo A21 and it runs cooler now. I'm driving 2.3's which are 5 or 6 ohm. The PS Audio Plus cable helped a lot with the heat issue. Mine never got really hot, but very warm. Now it's a low to medium warm. The bigger power cord also improved the low end punch. You may want to give this a try.
    Carl

  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited May 2006
    Halo wrote:
    Don't be a hater :p Russ & Chuck (among others) know what that little sucker can do! ;)

    I'm aware of that information, they are my friends, but when that flag starts being waved....you let me know.
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • AndyGwis
    AndyGwis Posts: 3,655
    edited May 2006
    Power cords help heat? Learn something new everyday.

    I would like my ST-202 to run a little cooler, but it doesn't have a removeable/replaceable power cord. Any ideas on replacing the unreplaceable and/or troubleshooting very warm amp?

    Add: Just hit triple digit posts, SWEET!
    Stereo Rig: Hales Revelation 3, Musical Fidelity CD-Pre 24, Forte Model 3 amp, Lexicon RT-10 SACD, MMF-5 w/speedbox, Forte Model 2 Phono Pre, Cardas Crosslink, APC H15, URC MX-950, Lovan Stand
    Bedroom: Samsung HPR-4252, Toshiba HD-A2, HK 3480, Signal Cable, AQ speaker cable, Totem Dreamcatchers, SVS PB10-NSD, URC MX-850
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited May 2006
    Mark - I thought that the SI meets Gaara's stated needs:
    • 2 channel amp
    • Runs cool
    • Looks aren't that big of deal
    • Power isn't a huge issue
    • Just has to run cool and be below $500
    Gaara wrote:
    I will be using these in my system with Gallo Due's, which are 8ohm speakers and will be crossed over at 60 or 80hz. These speakers are only rear surrounds in a 7.1 system, and are not used much. They will not be getting to much info since my system is not Dolby Prologic IIx enabled.
    The SI (new model or original) is a cool running 2 ch amp below $500 with modest power for surround speakers that get limited use / info, no?
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • dorokusai
    dorokusai Posts: 25,577
    edited May 2006
    I know what you meant, no problem, am I not allowed to comment?
    CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint.
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited May 2006
    dorokusai wrote:
    I know what you meant, no problem, am I not allowed to comment?
    Guess I just misunderstand ya sometimes :confused: Sorry bro :o
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10
  • Gaara
    Gaara Posts: 2,415
    edited May 2006
    Wow lots of crazy stuff going on up in here.

    Venomclan,

    It seems that everyone agrees with you that the M200s are great little units. The only problem with these is finding them, as the new ones sell for $625. I can wait, I haven't been using my 7.1 much, no biggie.

    Andy,

    Trading would not work out because I live in CT right by MA, that would be costly shipping a 40lb box back and forth. The A 23 I will be looking to sell off eventually, when I have time, which is rare. Actually I have a pair of LSi 9s and a LSi C in the hallway that I have been meaning to sell for close to six months, just haven't had the time. I'll be sure to read up on the carvers though.

    Early B, CFrizz,

    Thanks for chiming in, that is three votes for the outlaws. My only question now is do these little guys hum? I read somewhere that they had a problem with a slight mechanical hum. Not a deal breaker because my Cinenova does hum occasionally, as well as my SWL, just good to know beforehand.

    Del44,

    I have heard very good things about the Rotel units, which is why I first was looking at them. It seems they sound great, have a good price, and keep cool, everything I am looking for, plus they look nice. If I could get a RB1070 cheap or a RB 1050 I would be all over it. I love the look of them, and it would actually match my monster surge.

    Halo,

    Interesting idea, I actually might get one of these, just not for the main system. I always wanted something like this, because I play alot of music outside by the pool, and hate having to go find a 50ft extension cord. I would love to be able to just hook up speakers and a portable cd player and be rocking. The price to is just shocking.

    Lsi9,

    Marantz Monoblocks eh? I've got to do some reading on these, they look...interesting. Long and thin, I kinda like this because I could place them on the left side of my rack, or actually in back of components that aren't very deep. I could put them practically anywhere. Plus they get good reviews from what I have read, and are dirt cheap, I saw some go on Agon 5 for $575, silly.

    schwarcw,

    I tried using a different power cord but nothing really changed. I currently use at least hospital grade 14 gauge cords on all of my equipment, I used a VH Audio Flavor 4 cord for a while but nothing really changed. At the time I had them hooked up to my 8ohm Gallos and it still was getting hot.

    Well thanks for all the comments everyone, I have more reading to do while at work.

    Jared
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited May 2006
    I have never heard a hum from mine. I had major hum when I hooked up my Parasound, but took care of it. Naturally there is a little hiss through the speakers, but you won't notice unless you put your ear right up against it.

    Keep an eye on Audiogon. Sometimes they pop up for sale there.


    "Early B, CFrizz,"

    "Thanks for chiming in, that is three votes for the outlaws. My only question now is do these little guys hum? I read somewhere that they had a problem with a slight mechanical hum. Not a deal breaker because my Cinenova does hum occasionally, as well as my SWL, just good to know beforehand."
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • Gaara
    Gaara Posts: 2,415
    edited June 2006
    OK everyone thanks again for all the opinions, in the end I ended up going with a Rotel RB-1070 in black.

    I am very happy I went this route for three reasons, first...I am an idiot. A friend came over and were were all set to play some SuperSmash Brothers...except my gamecube wouldn't turn on. So I checked to see if it was plugged in, and it wasn't. I recently cleaned and used pro-gold on my entire system, and must have forgotten to plug the gamecube in. So in the end I really didn't have one extra open outlet, and I would have had to plug one amp in with no conditioning.

    The second reason I am happy to have gone this route is looks, I love the look of this thing! It looks awesome on or off, and it gives my rack and aggressive look to it, pretty sweet.

    The third reason is this thing runs cool, extremely cool. I let it play for three hours with no crossover into my rear surround, with music with lots of deep bass just to test it out. When I came back, much to my surprise, the left side was slightly warm and the right side was cool. I expected it to be warm all over and maybe a bit hot, but nope barley warm on one side and cool on the other. Very happily surprised.

    So everyone thanks for the advice and you will be seeing my little Halo on the flea market any day now.

    Jared
  • cfrizz
    cfrizz Posts: 13,415
    edited June 2006
    Congrats! Enjoy the Rotel, they make great equipment!
    Marantz AV-7705 PrePro, Classé 5 channel 200wpc Amp, Oppo 103 BluRay, Rotel RCD-1072 CDP, Sony XBR-49X800E TV, Polk S60 Main Speakers, Polk ES30 Center Channel, Polk S15 Surround Speakers SVS SB12-NSD x2
  • ohskigod
    ohskigod Posts: 6,502
    edited June 2006
    cant go wrong with Rotel no matter how you slice it, I allways liked that brand. Rotel amps have served me well for a long time
    Living Room 2 Channel -
    Schiit SYS Passive Pre. Jolida CD player. Songbird streamer. California Audio Labs Sigma II DAC, DIY 300as1/a1 Ice modules Class D amp. LSi15 with MM842 woofer upgrade, Nordost Blue Heaven and Unity interconnects.

    Upstairs 2 Channel Rig -
    Prometheus Ref. TVC passive pre, SAE A-205 Amp, Wiim pro streamer and Topping E50 DAC, California Audio Labs DX1 CD player, Von Schweikert VR3.5 speakers.

    Studio Rig - Scarlett 18i20(Gen3) DAW, Mac Mini, Aiyma A07 Max (BridgedX2), Totem Mites
  • GATOR3000
    GATOR3000 Posts: 355
    edited June 2006
    cfrizz wrote:
    I have never heard a hum from mine. I had major hum when I hooked up my Parasound, but took care of it. does hum occasionally, as well as my SWL, just good to know beforehand.

    cfrizz,
    How did you get rid of hum on your Parasound amp? I have Parasound amp and have hum in my L/R speakers. It is very loud 10' away.

    Thanks

    Gator
    Theatre System 5.1
    Sumsung HP-S5053 plasma
    Receiver Denon AVR 3806 Pre/Pro
    Parasound HCA 1500A amp (front L/R)
    Parasound HCA 1000A amp (centre)
    B & K AV5000 amp (bi-amp + surround)
    Dynaco ST70 tube amp (Herbie HAL-O9)
    polkaudio Lsi15 (Cherry) 2-channel
    polkaudio Rti8 Front (Cherry)
    polkaudio Csi5 Centre
    polkaudio Rti6 Surround
    polkaudio PSW1000 Subwoofer (Cherry)
    Original A8T CD
    Pioneer DV-275 DVD Player
    MONSTER CABLE MP-HTS3500MKII Powercentre
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited June 2006
    1. Do you have a television hooked into your system?
    2. Try the "ground lift" switch if your Parasound has it
    3. If it doesn't, use a cheater plug and try your plug into the wall reversed

    If the answer to #1 is yes, do you have a ground loop isolator connected from your cable wall jack? Cable drops are the #1 cause of hum in systems. The hum is transferred from your connected DVD or VCR and/or the TV itself if you have the TV connected to an input.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • GATOR3000
    GATOR3000 Posts: 355
    edited June 2006
    steveinaz wrote:
    1. Do you have a television hooked into your system?
    2. Try the "ground lift" switch if your Parasound has it
    3. If it doesn't, use a cheater plug and try your plug into the wall reversed

    If the answer to #1 is yes, do you have a ground loop isolator connected from your cable wall jack? Cable drops are the #1 cause of hum in systems. The hum is transferred from your connected DVD or VCR and/or the TV itself if you have the TV connected to an input.

    Hi Steveinaz,

    I do have TV hooked up un the same line. Don’t have the ground switch on Parasound amp. (Paraspond HCA 1500A). Don’t know what is a cheater plug. Can I make one? If so how?

    Have to look if the ground loop isolator is on my TV line in. Is it kind of cylindrical device about 2” long on my cable line?

    The hum comes out of the L/R speaker after source connection to the amp from my receiver’s preouts.

    Thanks for your help.

    Gator:) :)
    Theatre System 5.1
    Sumsung HP-S5053 plasma
    Receiver Denon AVR 3806 Pre/Pro
    Parasound HCA 1500A amp (front L/R)
    Parasound HCA 1000A amp (centre)
    B & K AV5000 amp (bi-amp + surround)
    Dynaco ST70 tube amp (Herbie HAL-O9)
    polkaudio Lsi15 (Cherry) 2-channel
    polkaudio Rti8 Front (Cherry)
    polkaudio Csi5 Centre
    polkaudio Rti6 Surround
    polkaudio PSW1000 Subwoofer (Cherry)
    Original A8T CD
    Pioneer DV-275 DVD Player
    MONSTER CABLE MP-HTS3500MKII Powercentre
  • Gaara
    Gaara Posts: 2,415
    edited August 2006
    Halo,

    The Sonic Impact was a great idea. I didn't use it for my main rig but have it running downstairs right now in a secondary system. I got the Super to try for now but may move that upstairs for my computer system and get the standard for downstairs. So far it plays plenty loud, sounds great, and is still cold after being run continuous for about three hours now. Thanks for the recomendation; you are the one that got me reading about these units.

    Jared
  • jdhdiggs
    jdhdiggs Posts: 4,305
    edited August 2006
    CARVER, CARVER, CARVER, CARVER...

    The way they are built/desing them makes them SUPER cool. I had one rated at 400W@4Ohm blasting my maggies for a couple hours with more than half the vents blocked and the thing was still at room temp. This was an a500x that I got for around $350 shipped and will give you 250W @8 per channel.
    There is no genuine justice in any scheme of feeding and coddling the loafer whose only ponderable energies are devoted wholly to reproduction. Nine-tenths of the rights he bellows for are really privileges and he does nothing to deserve them. We not only acquired a vast population of morons, we have inculcated all morons, old or young, with the doctrine that the decent and industrious people of the country are bound to support them for all time.-Menkin
  • halo
    halo Posts: 5,616
    edited August 2006
    Gaara wrote:
    Halo,

    The Sonic Impact was a great idea. I didn't use it for my main rig but have it running downstairs right now in a secondary system. I got the Super to try for now but may move that upstairs for my computer system and get the standard for downstairs. So far it plays plenty loud, sounds great, and is still cold after being run continuous for about three hours now. Thanks for the recomendation; you are the one that got me reading about these units.

    Jared
    Wow, happy to help and I'm glad it worked out for you :) Shocking results, eh? I still have mine even though I'm in an all tube rig now.

    When I sold my RTA 15TL's (local pick up thank gawd) I had the SI and a Philips portable CDP hooked up so the guy could demo them. When he asked me how much power I was sending to them I said "About 5 watts". At first he kind of laughed and looked at me like I was nuts. I pointed out the little amp to him. He had no idea what to make of it so I told him to go ahead and put it at full volume. His jaw hit the floor after that.

    I appreciate the credit but if it weren't for madmax and faster100 I never would've bothered with it either. Makes you really wonder if IC's, PC's, and speaker cables really make a difference :confused:
    Audio: Polk S15 * Polk S35 * Polk S10 * SVS SB-1000 Pro
    HT: Samsung QN90B * Marantz NR1510 * Panasonic DMP-BDT220 * Roku Ultra LT * APC H10