Amp choosing and wiring help

exalted512 · February 2006

MacLeod wrote:

We need a filter on here for bliss. Something that wont let the post thru if there is nothing of value in it.

Try Crutchfield as well. Theyre a fully authorized Polk retailer and may can ship the amp out faster.

geeze...if you do that why not just ban him? he wont be able to post...
-Cody

audiobliss · February 2006

exalted512 wrote:

geeze...if you do that why not just ban him? he wont be able to post...
-Cody

:eek: :eek: :mad:

:mad: :mad:

MacLeod wrote:

We need a filter on here for bliss. Something that wont let the post thru if there is nothing of value in it.

Well, my last post was informative and helpful, no?

MacLeod · February 2006

audiobliss wrote:

*****************

Alright! Justin came thru with that audiobliss filter!

deepinya · February 2006

lol poor bliss.

So I just thought of something. If I eventually get rear speakers and a 2-channel amp to power them, would I split the two rear channel RCA to go into both my 400.4 and 300.2?

Why I ask this? I do not feel like taking my car apart to undo my fronts.

Since I will be bi-amping I dont have to mount the mmc crossover correct? I will be able to tweak straight from the AMP and my h/u?

thanks for all the help so far! ...even you bliss!!

audiobliss · February 2006

deepinya wrote:

thanks for all the help so far! ...even you bliss!!

Haha! Thanks!

If you use your HU's crossover, then you won't be able to bi-amp if you add rear speakers. The thing is, you're going to be using your rear speaker preouts as a second set of preouts for the front. Then you can use the crossovers and such in the HU to set the HP and LP for each driver. If you add rear speakers, you'll have to use your rear speaker outputs to give your rear speakers a signal, meaning you can no longer use them with your front speakers. No need to fear though, you can still biamp. You'll just need to use a y-adapter on the one set of front speaker preouts to split it into a total of 4 RCAs to go to the amp just like would have already had. However, the difference here is that you will no longer be able to use the crossover in your HU, because the rear speaker preouts are being used for the rear speakers. So, you would need to use the amp's crossover or an external crossover.

IIRC, the C400.4 has a very nice crossover, so I would probably just set it up using the amp's crossover instead of the HU's the start with anyway. But maybe you'd prefer to use the HU's, and then switch over if you decide to add rear speakers later.

Hope that made sense.

Oh, and if that stupid filter thing comes on and bleeps out my post, just lemme know...I'll PM it to ya....:p

deepinya · February 2006

bottom line can I ditch the passive x-over or is this not a good idea?

audiobliss · February 2006

Yes. If you decide to biamp the SR6500 with a C400.4, you are not going to use the passive crossovers that came witht he SR56500. You will instead wire the individual drivers to the amp just like you regularly would (as if they were full range speakers), but you will (or ruin the SR6500) set the crossover on the C400.4. I'd suggest setting it how the passive crossovers are set for a starting point. Then you can play around with different settings to find which you like the most.

If you're not going to biamp them and instead power them with a C300.2 (or with just the front channels of a C400.4), then you would still use the passive crossovers that are included with the SR6500.

As I say this, I remember that the passive crossovers for the SR6500 have two power inputs per side, so you can biamp them and use the passive crossover. However, you would not have any flexibility with tuning them.

So, if you're getting a C400.4 and are going to biamp them, I'd just forego the passive crossover and use the crossover settings on the amp (or maybe even on your HU - that's another thing to play with).

neomagus00 · February 2006

IF you biamp AND you still use the passive xover, you lose tuning flexibility insofar as you can't change xover points or slopes - not necessarily a bad thing, because those points and slopes are chosen for good reasons... you do still retain the ability to tweak the tweeter's output to just where you want it, which is generally why you bi-amp in the first place...

audiobliss · February 2006

You mean that if you do biamp with the passive crossover, you can still control the tweeter attenuation? But not to as great a degree as you could by using the HU and/or amp crossover, right? Aren't there just three different settings on the passive crossover?

MacLeod · February 2006

If you bi-amp and use the passive crossover you can attenuate the tweeters output by both adjusting the gainst for the tweeters channels and using the 3 way (-3, -1.5, 0, +1.5 db) attenuator on the crossover itself.

I kinda recommend using the passive as its been designed to get the most out of the SR's AND you get that nifty tweeter protection light bulb.

deepinya · February 2006

Yeah but Im getting the mmc6500's!

audiobliss · February 2006

Oh...oops. My bad. Then scratch the crossover and use the amp's/HU's crossover.

MacLeod · February 2006

deepinya wrote:

Yeah but Im getting the mmc6500's!

Well then everything I said stands except now its a 0,-3, -6 db attenuator.

audiobliss · February 2006

And, I'm pretty sure the MMC6500 crossover is not biampable. So that would mean you have to use the amp's/HU's crossover.

deepinya · February 2006

Yeah if you read the Polk page on the c400.4 it says the amp is made to work in conjunction with the mmc series (bi-amping).

Amp choosing and wiring help

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