Carpet Spikes for 2B's?

Stew

Does anyone use carpet spikes for 2B's or similar? Mine are essentially level using cardboard shims but I'm wondering if spikes would be an improvement. They're sitting on carpet over concrete and there seems to be a denser strip of pad extending 8-10" from the wall.

The oak bottoms have the original rubber feet and I'm really hesitant to remove them and drill holes. Anyone have experience here? I've also thought about putting spikes on a flat piece of wood and putting the speakers on top. This would be easy to level but would raise the speakers an inch or more. Thoughts?

janmike

I use spikes not just my column speakers but all the stands (speaker, audio, and TV - all Plateau).

F1nut

IMO, adding spikes would be a good idea. Plan carefully before you drill and if you happen to drill though the cabinet you can seal the hole from the inside. I'd recommend Forstner bits as they leave a flat bottom.

Stew

F1nut - What do you think about spiking a piece of wood and putting the speakers on top? Would this negate some of the benefits of the spikes? I really hate the thought of drilling holes but maybe that's the best way. Thanks for the advice on the Forstner bit!

F1nut

Which model 2B do you have, the Studio or regular version with the wood end caps?

Stew

Mine are the regular version with cloth sides and wood end caps.

F1nut

In that case you can drill into the bottom without worry as the cap is at least 3/4" thick and is attached to actual cabinet which adds another 3/4".

Tour2ma

Sorry to interrupt, but you've talking drilling a hole to accomodate a threaded sleeve for the feet/ spikes?

And on the "spike a piece of wood option", I'd think it could work if you can figure a way to couple the speaker to the wood.

VR3

glue?

Just cut a piece of wood slightly smaller by about 2" on each side... set the speaker on top of it with glue on the other piece of wood... I think the weight of the speaker itself would be a good enough... "clamp"

F1nut

Guys, it would be no different than the way Polk added screw in feet to the larger SDA's. Drill a hole for the insert, hammer it into place, screw in the foot and you're done. There's no reason to add a piece of wood to the bottom.

Stew

Do the larger SDA's have permanently installed rubber feet with separate threaded holes for the spikes or do you install either rubber feet or spikes in the same holes? If separate holes, where are they in relation to each other?

F1nut

Stew, The larger SDA's have threaded holes only, which accept either metal clad pad feet or spikes. The thread pattern is 1/4-20. This isn't a big a deal, just drill the damn holes, screw in the spikes and enjoy the music.

Stew

F1nut wrote:

This isn't a big a deal, just drill the damn holes, screw in the spikes and enjoy the music.

F1nut wrote:

Piss poor planning leads to a piss poor performance!

:eek: :eek:

F1nut wrote:

Stew, The larger SDA's have threaded holes only, which accept either metal clad pad feet or spikes. The thread pattern is 1/4-20.

Thanks Jesse! You never know if these will end up on a hard floor someday and I want to keep my options open. Metal clad pad feet in 1/4-20 aren't hard to come by though.

Stew

Stew

Tour2ma and Vr3MxStyler2k3 - Thanks for the responses and entertaining my crazy idea!

F1nut

Sorry Stew, just seemed like it was getting to be a bigger deal than it needed to be. Another option for down the road.....you can always use spike floor protection discs if you place them on a hard surface again or place rubber peel & stick pads over the holes, that way it'll look like the holes were never there.

schwarcw

Maybe drill a hole for a bass brace too! :eek:

Stew

Thanks Jesse - I'm sure it's like a lot of other things; easy when you know how. It looks like Madisound and Parts Express have plenty of spikes, discs, etc. to choose from. Have a Happy New Year!

DarqueKnight

I added spikes to the oak caps of my SDA 1B's.

I ordered the carpet spikes from Polk, part number RF1400-1, and used them with metal insert nuts purchased from Home Depot, part number 54454.

If you use these insert nuts, note that they are screwed in with a hex wrench rather than hammered in.

Stew

Thanks DarqueKnight - These look like they would be easier to adjust than anything else I've seen. Can't beat the price either ($2.13/4-pack if Polk's parts list is current).

Stew

Ordered spikes from Polk CS today. $4.26 for all eight.

BobMcG

Stew wrote:

Does anyone use carpet spikes for 2B's or similar?

Yes.

Drilled out and threaded sleves inserted first.

Done back in '89 or '90 so don't remember the brand spike kit.

Be very careful when drilling the MDF.

Stew

BobMcG wrote:

Be very careful when drilling the MDF.

I was more worried about splitting the oak laminate and haven't thought about the MDF. Did you have a problem when you drilled?

Stew

Installed the Polk spikes last weekend. No problems - even the oak laminate is essentially unscathed. My 2B's are finally level and don't shift from settling into the carpet! It took longer to level them than it did to install the spikes.

Bass is a little tighter/more solid as expected. The mids also seem a little more clear which I wasn't expecting. Maybe due to the front and outside tilt that I could never completely eliminate? Well worth the $6 total I spent on spikes and inserts!

Tour2ma

More likely just eliminating the speakers movement produced the mid-range result as well.

Glad it worked for you.

nathanso

Are spikes necessary when speakers are placed on a hardwood floor?

Tour2ma

No... and not recommended.

Speakers just need to be solidly coupled to the underlieing surface. If the speaker rocks, driver motion will go into the cabinet movement rather than moving air.