Are Power Conditioners Worth It

scubamike
scubamike Posts: 60
edited December 2005 in Electronics
Just wondering if a power conditioner would do me any good. If so what model and price range should I look at?
Post edited by scubamike on
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Comments

  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,779
    edited December 2005
    Why do you think you need one? What gear would you connect to it? Do you have a dedicated line already?

    There are basically two types, passive and active. Both have advantages, so do a little research to understand which would suit you best, but you absolutely want one that doesn't limit current at all.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • Ferres
    Ferres Posts: 310
    edited December 2005
    You could also consider having someone install a separate higher amp fuse box and outlet line dedicated to your AV system.
    Gear: Rotel RC 1082, Rotel RSP 1068 pre/pro, Rotel RMB1077 amp, Cayin CDT 15a CD player, S301 bluray.

    Speakers: Tannoy DC sensys speakers, Paradigm Servo15 Sub, Velo Spl-1500r

    Conditioner: Isotek :D
  • george daniel
    george daniel Posts: 12,096
    edited December 2005
    Mine is on a 20 amp dedicated circuit/line
    JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut)
  • Early B.
    Early B. Posts: 7,900
    edited December 2005
    scubamike wrote:
    Just wondering if a power conditioner would do me any good. If so what model and price range should I look at?

    Only way to know is to try it. For some people it makes a big difference; for others it's a waste of money. Depends on a a lot of factors. Just buy a moderately priced one and return it if it doesn't make a difference.

    The other consideration of power conditioners is for peace of mind. Your gear is protected from power surges. If peace of mind is something you'd like to have, then invest in one.

    No need to spend a ton of money on one, either. The most cost effective power conditioner I've used is a TrippLite Isobar for about $35. It works just as good as my $500 Monster power center.
    HT/2-channel Rig: Sony 50” LCD TV; Toshiba HD-A2 DVD player; Emotiva LMC-1 pre/pro; Rogue Audio M-120 monoblocks (modded); Placette RVC; Emotiva LPA-1 amp; Bada HD-22 tube CDP (modded); VMPS Tower II SE (fronts); DIY Clearwave Dynamic 4CC (center); Wharfedale Opus Tri-Surrounds (rear); and VMPS 215 sub

    "God grooves with tubes."
  • LiquidSound
    LiquidSound Posts: 1,261
    edited December 2005
    Correct me if I'm wrong. Receivers and whatnot are designed on a source of clean power..right? Shouldn't you give them what they were designed to run on? SQ and PQ improvements aside, with the surge protection, clean power, and warranty on equipment damage that some pieces carry..it seems like peace of mind to me.
    Two Channel Main
    Receiver - VSX-54TX
    Mains - Csi40's
    Sub - Spiked Velodyne Cht-8 On Spiked Landscaping Stones

    "If you could put speakers in a needle, I'd never see him again..." - My Girlfriend
  • read-alot
    read-alot Posts: 812
    edited December 2005
    Anthem forbids the use of conditioners with their TLP-1 pre amp.

    I dont know about other equipment made by Anthem or why.

    I am using one while I wait (7 weeks now) on the Dodd ELP.
    polkaudio SRS (rdo194 x 8)
    Dodd ELP (separate power supply)
    JC 1 blocks ( strapped )
    Rega Apollo
    MIT (speaker cables) Outlaw (ICs)

    polkaudio SDA2(rdo194x4) (front) polkaudio CRS (rdo194x4)(rear) polkaudio 400i (center)
    B&K 505
    Samsung LCD
    VIP 622
    HSU STF-2
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,204
    edited December 2005
    read-alot wrote:
    Anthem forbids the use of conditioners with their TLP-1 pre amp.

    I dont know about other equipment made by Anthem or why.

    I am using one while I wait (7 weeks now) on the Dodd ELP.

    Where did you get this Info? I never heard of a company telling anyone not to use a conditioner. I find that very hard to believe as installing this preamp, there is always going to be more then 1 more gear. You need somewhere to plug all the gear into. Conditioners are very worth it. As noted above in the prior posts. Depending on the level of system you own should warrant the level of Conditioner/Surge protector you use.

    Many companies make em and I support a few. Monster makes nice Conditioners as well as Panamax and Richard Grey. Ps Audio's are very respected in the Industry. If it doesn't help your system sound or look better Video wise, it's a great way to protect your investment. I find that already worth the asking cost. Also noted in the above posts.

    Dan
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited December 2005
    In my own experience I prefer passive units (aka fancy multiple outlet). I use a Panamax but still plug my power amp directly into the wall outlet. I tried a Monster conditioner (active), I did not like the way in made my music sound soft and "lumpy."

    Go ahead and spend say $200, but I wouldn't go any higher than that. The PS Audio "Juicebar" would be a good buy. Your music dollars would go farther investing anything more than that into speakers/source.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • read-alot
    read-alot Posts: 812
    edited December 2005
    mantis wrote:
    Where did you get this Info? I never heard of a company telling anyone not to use a conditioner.

    Dan


    Its in the freaking owners manual. I didnt make it up.

    Why can you not - ah the hell with it READ IT YOURSELF

    DO NOT USE A POWER LINE CONDITIONER:
    • Certain design characteristics of many Power Line Conditioners make them incompatible with
    the TLP 1 and may cause the TLP 1's AC line fuse to blow.
    polkaudio SRS (rdo194 x 8)
    Dodd ELP (separate power supply)
    JC 1 blocks ( strapped )
    Rega Apollo
    MIT (speaker cables) Outlaw (ICs)

    polkaudio SDA2(rdo194x4) (front) polkaudio CRS (rdo194x4)(rear) polkaudio 400i (center)
    B&K 505
    Samsung LCD
    VIP 622
    HSU STF-2
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited December 2005
    steveinaz wrote:
    The PS Audio "Juicebar" would be a good buy. Your music dollars would go farther investing anything more than that into speakers/source.
    I'm pretty sure the PS Audio Juicebar offers no protection. it's just a fancy power strip, no surge protection, no conditioning, just extra plugs.
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,779
    edited December 2005
    That's correct, the Juice Bar is a high end power strip, nothing more. For protection/conditioning you'd need something like the passive UPC-200, which can be had new for as little as $370.00 on Audiogon.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,204
    edited December 2005
    read-alot wrote:
    Its in the freaking owners manual. I didnt make it up.

    Why can you not - ah the hell with it READ IT YOURSELF

    DO NOT USE A POWER LINE CONDITIONER:
    • Certain design characteristics of many Power Line Conditioners make them incompatible with
    the TLP 1 and may cause the TLP 1's AC line fuse to blow.

    Any reason your angry? I asked a question, don't take it so personal.

    I'll avoid giving you any advice in the future.
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • read-alot
    read-alot Posts: 812
    edited December 2005
    mantis wrote:
    I find that very hard to believe

    Dan

    No problem there hoss, I just dont like people calling me a liar. You should do a little research before making this type of comment.
    polkaudio SRS (rdo194 x 8)
    Dodd ELP (separate power supply)
    JC 1 blocks ( strapped )
    Rega Apollo
    MIT (speaker cables) Outlaw (ICs)

    polkaudio SDA2(rdo194x4) (front) polkaudio CRS (rdo194x4)(rear) polkaudio 400i (center)
    B&K 505
    Samsung LCD
    VIP 622
    HSU STF-2
  • opus
    opus Posts: 1,252
    edited December 2005
    read-alot wrote:
    No problem there hoss, I just dont like people calling me a liar. You should do a little research before making this type of comment.


    Read, What's with the attitude bud? Mantis didn't call you a liar. He asked a question. And then he made a statement based on his past experience.( right or wrong). Both are allowed here and not unheard of. If you have information that would help enlighten us and have access to "the freaking owners manual" I'm sure we would all be happy to do a little more research.

    thanks 'lil hoss
    The Flea rig
    Hitachi 50VG825 LCD
    Rotel RSP 1066 (pre) :)-flea market
    B&K St-202 (mains)-flea market
    Carver M 200t (x2) (center and surrounds)-flea market
    Blu-Ray..PS3 (dvd player)
    Polk RTA-11t-flea market
    LsiC, Fxi30's

    Dual SVS PC-Utra's (1 port blocked) thanks MikeC78
    Behringer Feedback Destroyer
    -flea market
    AudioAlchemy DDE v1.0 DAC-flea market
    Cambridge Audio Azur 640 CDP-flea market
    Signal Cable and Kimber Kable
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,779
    edited December 2005
    Unbelieveable
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • BIZILL
    BIZILL Posts: 5,432
    edited December 2005
    just for the hell of it i dictionary.com'ed 'hoss'. not a word. but i still sorta like it for some odd reason.

    POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
    PANASONIC PT-AE4000U -- DIY WILSONART DW 135" 2.35:1 SCREEN
    ONKYO TX-SR805
    CENTER: CSI5
    MAINS: RTI8'S
    SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
    7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
    SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)

    XBOX 360
    WiiPS3/blu-rayTOSHIBA HD-A35 hd dvd

    http://polkarmy.com/forums/index.php
    bobman1235 wrote:
    I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments.
  • mantis
    mantis Posts: 17,204
    edited December 2005
    read-alot wrote:
    No problem there hoss, I just dont like people calling me a liar. You should do a little research before making this type of comment.
    I didn't call you a liar, I found that hard to believe that a company wouldn't want you to use a conditioner, thats it. I asked where the info came from, re read my post.
    If your this angry maybe you shouldn't be posting in here. Find somewhere else.If you can talk about things civil, I'll give you another shot.

    Dan
    Dan
    My personal quest is to save to world of bad audio, one thread at a time.
  • polkatese
    polkatese Posts: 6,767
    edited December 2005
    I am always under the impression that "Hoss" came from the Ponderosa Ranch day, in reference of the memorable character of Eric 'Hoss' Cartwright (1959-72)-Dan Blocker. Anyone in my age group can confirm? or, who are up late at night waiting for the re-run of Bonanza? :)
    I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
  • BIZILL
    BIZILL Posts: 5,432
    edited December 2005
    i still want some info on "hoss". also, please, those who own conditioners guide us and speak out. thanks.

    POLK SDA-SRS 1.2TL -- ADCOM GFA-5802
    PANASONIC PT-AE4000U -- DIY WILSONART DW 135" 2.35:1 SCREEN
    ONKYO TX-SR805
    CENTER: CSI5
    MAINS: RTI8'S
    SURROUNDS: RTI8'S
    7.1 SURROUNDS: RTI6'S
    SUB: SVS PB12-PLUS/2 (12.3 series)

    XBOX 360
    WiiPS3/blu-rayTOSHIBA HD-A35 hd dvd

    http://polkarmy.com/forums/index.php
    bobman1235 wrote:
    I have no facts to back that up, but I never let facts get in the way of my arguments.
  • gregure
    gregure Posts: 871
    edited December 2005
    First of all, I've always associated "hoss" with Bonanza. I don't think there is another origin.
    Second of all, I am a big proponent of line conditioners. I would recommend against Monster units, though, as I've owned one and it was definitely inferior to what I've experienced from Panamax. Panamax are great units, their whole company is based on creating these, and that is where all their research goes. Plus, I like them because their local, based in Petaluma, CA, about 20 mins from my home. Panamax has two really good qualities: 1. They are designed to simply shut off if power dips or surges, and will turn back on when they sense a stable current. This means no damage to components or the unit itself. 2. They have dedicated amp outlets for which the capacitors have been removed to prevent current limiting.
    To the original poster: Is it worth it? Yes. You will notice a marked improvement of picture quality on your tv, a slight improvement in sound quality with your music, and have the overall benefit of knowing that you're equipment is protected and working at full potential. As far as I'm concerned, you can't spend too little on a line conditioner-the more you spend, the better filtration you'll get. I have a MAX5500 from Panamax, retails for $1000. That's a bit steep for most people, but it's a great unit, and the first one in the line that has a transformer for filtration, which will handle up to 4 amps. The unit itself will handle more, but the outlets connected to the transformer are meant for 4 amps.
    Lastly, in regards to the argument that's sprouted up here, it is not unheard of for certain equipment to have issues with line conditioners. At Magnolia, they have a difficulty with Primare gear interacting with Panamax units. Neither Primare or Panamax can figure out why, but the problems persist. Sumiko reps usually recommend plugging Primare amps into the wall to avoid these issues, believing that if a surge happens it will only blow a fuse-easy to replace. There's kind of a joke with Primare gear:
    "I have an issue with my Primare amp, it doesn't appear to be working."
    "Is the amp plugged into a line conditioner?"
    "No."
    "Is there a line conditioner plugged into the same outlet as the amp?"
    "No."
    "Is there a line conditioner plugged into the same circuit as the amp?"
    "No."
    "Oh, maybe there's something wrong with your amp."
    Current System:

    Mitsubishi 30" LCD LT-3020 (for sale**)
    Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Concert Grand (Rosewood)-Mains (with Audioquest Mont Blanc cables)
    CSi5-Center (for sale**)
    FXi3-surrounds (for sale**)
    Martin Logan Depth-Sub
    B&K AVR 507
    Pimare CD21-CD Player
    Denon 1815-DVD Player
    Panamax M5500-EX-Line Conditioner
  • steveinaz
    steveinaz Posts: 19,538
    edited December 2005
    tryrrthg wrote:
    I'm pretty sure the PS Audio Juicebar offers no protection. it's just a fancy power strip, no surge protection, no conditioning, just extra plugs.

    Exactly.
    Source: Bluesound Node 2i - Preamp/DAC: Benchmark DAC2 DX - Amp: Parasound Halo A21 - Speakers: MartinLogan Motion 60XTi - Shop Rig: Yamaha A-S501 Integrated - Shop Spkrs: Elac Debut 2.0 B5.2
  • polkatese
    polkatese Posts: 6,767
    edited December 2005
    I have a Panamax 5500 too, and one thing that I learned: the 12v trigger feature of it need to be bypassed, when connecting a Pre/Pro to a very-high current power amp(s). It caused the protection on the amp to go off, every time. So, to that end, that's only my caveat. Connecting a HC amp to the Panamax HC outlet is fine, but not the trigger.
    I am sorry, I have no opinion on the matter. I am sure you do. So, don't mind me, I just want to talk audio and pie.
  • tryrrthg
    tryrrthg Posts: 1,896
    edited December 2005
    steveinaz wrote:
    Exactly.
    And that will be your response to this post too ;)

    For $150 (or whatever the juicebar costs) you could probably have an electrician come out and put in a dedicated 20 amp circuit in. That or a whole house surge protector.
    Sony KDL-40V2500 HDTV, Rotel RSX-1067 Receiver, Sony BDP-S550 Blu-ray, Slim Devices Squeezebox, Polk RTi6, CSi3 & R15, DIY sub with Atlas 15
  • scubamike
    scubamike Posts: 60
    edited December 2005
    I was thinking about a Monster unit that Bestbuy carries but if the Panamax is that much better I will do some research for one of those. Of course with Christmas coming up I dont know how much extra cash I have.
  • jtgranby
    jtgranby Posts: 887
    edited December 2005
    I just bought one of these.http://www.buy.com/retail/product.asp?sku=90139792&loc=101. Will see how it works.
    Jim
  • wingnut4772
    wingnut4772 Posts: 7,519
    edited December 2005
    I have a Panamax M440 20 amp model and I could not be happier. I used to have everything hooked up to a Monster Hts2500 . There is a big improvement with the Panamax. I don't know if that is just because it was made for my 20amp dedicated circuit and the Monster is not? But I love it. I was really surprised to hear an impovement. I was just looking for the protection of a surge supressor.
    Sharp Elite 70
    Anthem D2V 3D
    Parasound 5250
    Parasound HCA 1000 A
    Parasound HCA 1000
    Oppo BDP 95
    Von Schweikert VR4 Jr R/L Fronts
    Von Schweikert LCR 4 Center
    Totem Mask Surrounds X4
    Hsu ULS-15 Quad Drive Subwoofers
    Sony PS3
    Squeezebox Touch

    Polk Atrium 7s on the patio just to keep my foot in the door.
  • Gaara
    Gaara Posts: 2,415
    edited December 2005
    Personaly I think the monster ones are worth if for thier lower end stuff, but you get greatly diminishing returns after the HTS 1000 for $150. If I had to do it all over again I would look at companies like Equi-Tech, Brickwall, and Panamax. I would also have installed my dedicated 20 amp line much earlier before even seriously looking into line conditioners.

    Jared
  • F1nut
    F1nut Posts: 50,779
    edited December 2005
    I use two PS Audio UPC-200's, one for the amp and the other for the SACD player with both set to ultra high current. They add nothing, they take nothing away and offer some of, if not the best protection out there.
    Political Correctness'.........defined

    "A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."


    President of Club Polk

  • jrlouie
    jrlouie Posts: 462
    edited December 2005
    Sometimes a conditioner is a requirement. I rented a house at one point that if someone turned the garbage-disposal on in the kitchen, a surge would trip the protection on my AVR! Kind of funny sitting around drinking brewskies one night and trying to figure out why the damn AVR kept flicking off. What do you know, some **** in the kitchen :D Anyway, rather than fighting and waiting for the land-lord to work on this, a Tripp-Lite conditioner solved my problems. I no longer live there, but I still use the conditioner at a newly-renovated loft/apartment building and it's amazing how much unknown voltage fluctuations occur there too. I wouldn't have known this newly wired place had these problems, but my conditioner has a display on the front that indicates if it is receiving normal, high, or low voltage. That thing is constantly reporting low voltages.
    http://www.tripplite.com/products/product.cfm?productID=2833

    Although, the product does make kind of make an annoying click when flipping into the mode to boost voltage when it has a lack there of. But it does give me a sense of comfort knowing a steady voltage is flowing to the tubes.
  • Fallen Kell
    Fallen Kell Posts: 94
    edited December 2005
    Correct me if I'm wrong. Receivers and whatnot are designed on a source of clean power..right? Shouldn't you give them what they were designed to run on? SQ and PQ improvements aside, with the surge protection, clean power, and warranty on equipment damage that some pieces carry..it seems like peace of mind to me.

    Actually "Recievers and whatnot" are designed to be used with a power transformer that converts your AC power to DC power which is then used to do all the SQ and PQ. Now, if your AC->DC transformer was designed to use a perfect 60Hz sine wave and can not output the rated DC current from anything but that 60Hz sine wave AC, then, yes, you might see an improvement. But I can tell you that there are MANY AC->DC transformers that can work on many different power standards, since there is no worldwide standard, the mass manufacturers of the AC->DC transformers realized, "Hey, we can sell more of these units if it worked in the USA, Japan, and Europe", so they eased the restrictions on the AC input. Heck, there are computer power supplies that will work on 90V-250V input with sine or square waves from 40-70Hz, we use them all the time at work in many pieces of equipment...

    Again, it all depends on what gear you own and how tollerant your gear is to clean power. Then you also might not see/hear any differences as well because you may already have clean enough power for your gear...