Any offroaders?
audiobliss
Posts: 12,518
I have a 1995 2-door Cherokee and I'm *thinking* about getting a lift for it. I've never been off-road and if I ever do start riding trails (which, btw, I think would be fun), it'll likely be a long ways down the road. However, I'd still like a lift just for the 'look' and the personality it adds to the car.
I'm thinking of something relatively modest like a 3.5" or 4.5" lift with some 31" tires.
So, I just need some basic information on lifts. I'm reading and researching, but I find that I need a basic framework of information to start with. What size lifts do y'all have (I know at least two people here have lifts...), who are they by, what size tires are you running, etc. Also, how much does it affect driveability? I.E. how much more top-heavy is it?
Just any information you could throw out there would be appreciated!
Thanks!
I'm thinking of something relatively modest like a 3.5" or 4.5" lift with some 31" tires.
So, I just need some basic information on lifts. I'm reading and researching, but I find that I need a basic framework of information to start with. What size lifts do y'all have (I know at least two people here have lifts...), who are they by, what size tires are you running, etc. Also, how much does it affect driveability? I.E. how much more top-heavy is it?
Just any information you could throw out there would be appreciated!
Thanks!
In UseGeorge Grand wrote: »
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1999 gmc 2500 ext cab long bed
i went with race car dynamics(rcd) six inch lift with 33`s for street ability
i installed myself with the neighbors help
put it on in 2000 (june) i could not be happier with it love the looks and the ride
check out four wheel parts centers for some info they are all over the u.s.
only been off the pavement a handfull of times and been stuck everytime.thats what a long wheelbase and a heavy truck will do plus an idiot like me behind the wheel according to my wife sorry exwife maybe i`m not really an idiot.I thought it was fairly amusing also. The Polk Ogre doesn't always get 'it' -
Sounds nice! You got a pic of it? Post it!George Grand wrote: »
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For a Cherokee I would recommend around a 4" lift to retain driveability. I assume this is a 4.0 auto Cherokee you are talking about. As with any lifted vehicle it is all in how you drive it. For your Cherokee I would recommend the Rough Country 4.5" lift. This lift includes shocks and retails for around $470. I know Rough Country is not the most widely known or biggest name in lifts, but I have had a list of lifted vehicles, and I have always been very satisfied with their products. The 4.5" lift will allow clearance for 31" or 32" tires. It all depends on the look you are going for. I personally like a little clearance b/t the tires and fenders instead of stuffing the biggest tire possible all the time. Just be sure to also consider gears when lifting a vehicle and fitting it with larger tires. This is a subjest I have more know how on than CA so if you have any questions please ask. I have installed that exact lift 3 times if I remember correct. It can be a weekend project in the driveway with the right equipment and a little know how.
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Yes, it's a 4.0 mated to the automatic. To be perfectly honest, I have no idea what ratio is in the rear end. How could I find that out? I've read a lot about 3.55, 4.10, 4.56, and 4.88; do you know what options were available from the dealership? Maybe the window sticker will say what the ratio is (I believe we still have it).
Wow, $470 for a 4.5" lift?! That's great! The few I were looking at (namely Rubicon Express and Skyjacker) ranged from $720 to $1446! I assume there has to be some quality and functionality differences there to warrant that kind of difference in price.
I guess the first thing I need to know is what the ratio in the rear end is. I think I've determined I have the Chrysler 8.25 rear end.
EDIT - Well, ok. The window sticker doesn't say anything about the rear end.George Grand wrote: »
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audiobliss- usually all of the important information of the vehicle is located on the body tag in the driver's side doorjamb. There should be a code for the rear end that'll tell you what it is... but you do have to know what the codes stand forLudicrous gibs!
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If I were a betting man I would say the 4.10:1 is probably the ratio you have. The difference in the lifts is 1)Name 2)Flex. If you are looking for a daily driver/weekend wheeler I don't think you will really need or want the long arm extreme flex suspensions. Plus a lot of additional mods are required for a lift such as this. As far a build quality goes I will put Rough Country beside any other manufacturer. Back to the gears as long as you stay around 31" tires you should be fine on the gear. You will lose a little power as your rpm will be lower at a specific speed, but there shouldn't be enough of a difference to worry with. If I were going to be running 33"s or 35"s on a Cherokee I would definately change gears, but I would probably change out the axles all together before I started spending money on gears for your current axles.
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Does Rough Country have a website? I see that quadratec doesn't carry that brand, and to be honest, I don't know where else to look. If you know of any other good resources, I'd definitely appreciate it!
This is definitely my daily driver and will be for at least 3 or 4 years or more, so driveability is a main concern. And, seeing as how I've never been off-road and won't ever get hardcore with it if I do get into it, I admittedly don't need a lot of flex (though it'd be cool ). However, I do want a lift that would provide enough flex and travel to be functional on a mild trail. You know, not something that is designed purely for show, though that's what it'll be for at least for now. You think the Rough Country would fill that need nicely?
Thanks for the help so far!George Grand wrote: »
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Nadams is right. There should also be a number on the rear diff on the cover itself, and if it is still there, there should be a little tag bolted on at the rear diff too. Call your local Jeep dealer and they will be able to translate the code for you.
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With the Rough Country kits (and a few others) I see there is a choice for add-a-leaf or new leaf springs. I assume with the first option you just remove your stock leaf springs, add in the new one, and then bolt the assembly back on, right? What's with the new leaf springs? Is that a whole new assembly? What's the difference in quality and performance?
Thanks!George Grand wrote: »
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trying to post pics can`t seem to figure it out lucky i know how to get back to this thread i have one pic in hp picture saver or sumpin like that if i figure it out i will postI thought it was fairly amusing also. The Polk Ogre doesn't always get 'it'
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I have a 1988 Suzuki LT500R. Does that count?
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I would go with Rubicon Express personally. A really great site for jeeps is www.jeepaholics.com.
your gear ratio is either a 3.54 or a 3.73 depending on your towing package. I wouldnt go around trying to flex that thing...or else your doors might not close right anymore...thats the beauty of unibody.
-CodyMusic is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
The stock gears with engine/tranny combo are going to be 3.55. You can confirm this by looking at the tag on the front or rear diff. As far as lift kits, a Rubicon Express 3.5" lift is going to give you about 5" of lift and settle at about 4". Depending on the type of wheeling you plan on doing, modifications to the bump stops may be needed. 4.10 gears will work well with 31"-32" tires, 4.56 for 33's.
If you have a Dana35 rear axle you really need to get rid of it and go with a Chrysler 8.25" or a Dana 44. The Dana44 is only slightly stronger than the 8.25 and can be had for around $300. The 8.25" axle came in a 27 spline up until mid 96, and then was chaanged to a stronger 29 spline axle shaft...that's what I have in my 97.
Adding any lift kit to an XJ reguires the removal of the rear sway bar. Don't worry about it, you won't miss it at all. The front sway bar will stay in place but you should invest in a quality set of Quick Disconnects to free up the front end for increased wheel travel and axle articulation. Take a look at the JKS Quicker Disconnects.
Keep in mind that taller and wider tires will also mean a different backspacing will be needed as well to prevent the wheels from rubbing on the lower control arms when the wheels are at full lock.
New shocks are a must. The original length shocks will greatly limit wheel travel. Most kits can be ordered with the correct length shocks.
Increasing the ride height can cause some driveline vibrations. If you have a NP 231 transfer case you can install a Hack & Tap Slip Yoke Eliminator (H&T SYE). Basically the existing the slip yoke is eliminated and a double cardan (think CV Joint) takes it place. The rear shaft will have to be replaced, but you can get a front drive shaft from a junk yard for around $10-20 to complete the SYE...it works great.I ever do start riding trails (which, btw, I think would be fun) -
Lets try this...
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check out FRANKZ the XJ man. I am jeolous, Colorado! Must be great to be out there. It always looks like true wheelin' fun out there. A lot better than just NC mud. Plus it is the home for www.coloroadok5.com
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Vinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
4.56 with 33s??? you like that power huh?
-CodyMusic is like candy, you have to get rid of the rappers to enjoy it -
I've thought about putting a lift kit on my '02 Durango with some bigger tires, but the thing is just just too heavy to ever take off road. I've got 4hi and 4 lo, but I think their meant more for snow and slush, than for mud. I've also got a fairly stout rear diff. as I've got the towing package. FrankZ, didn't you have a Durango before the jeep? How did it do on the trails and what mods (if any) did you put on it? I very seriously doubt that I will ever do anything to this truck as I live and work in Chicago. Parallel parking would probably be a ****.
Audiobliss, you might also want to check into the legalities concerning bumper height in your state. I know a lot of states have laws that say if your bumper is too high off the ground, you can't drive the vehicle on public roads, although I doubt it is often enforced."I got into the music business thinking it was really radical, that it wasn't really a business at all, that it was a lot of people being artistic and creative. Not true, and it made me very depressed."
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I found this on another site.
This did not happen to me.
Well...I rolled my truck
This has to be the single weirdest thing that has ever happened to me.
I was pulling out of the back parking lot yesterday to run upto another shop to pick up a part we needed for a truck. As I came out of the parking lot and onto the street, I guess I turned a little too sharp and caught the very edge of the curb. Next thing I know, the truck is leaning way over onto its passenger side, then it just goes dark and I feel the the truck come down on its lid. I was going no more than 10mph, as both my installers watched the entire thing happen.
The police came, and they thought I was "hauling ****" as one cop put it. After I showed them exactly what I did, they had no explanation and luckily one of them ended up knowing the guy who built my truck, because he had him and his old partner build him a prerunner. I didnt get ticketed becaus they could find no faults on my part, they concluded it was a freak accident.
Okay, soo if you've gotten this far...your probably waiting for pics. I only have one **** pic that is actually a picture of a printed picture...soo here it is:Skynut
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NC law is a vehicle cannot be altered more than 6" raised or lowered from factory ride height. actual bumper and/or headlight height is not addressed as far as I know.
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Have to second the Rubicon Express recommendations - really depends what you want to spend though.
Old Man Emu are the tops for ride quality and great stuff but a lot more expensive than RE.
Another you might consider is the Big Dick's - (BDS) Suspension kit - I installed a 2" lift in my Wrangler with little to no prior experience and mostly common hand tools (although renting an impact wrench is pretty schweet!). The BDS is lifetime guaranteed (even against sag) - a top quality and very complete kit that also happened to be dirt cheap! (My Wrangler by the way has Polk 5 1/4"s two ways in the doors and 475 watts going to six speakers - my buddies just figure I want to pound road noise into submission).
Go to www.jeeps-offroad.com and check out the boards and information - these guys know their stuff and won't steer you wrong!VA HT HK AVR20II, Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD, Polk Audio RC80i / Polk Audio CSi3, 60" Panasonic Plasma, Nordost / Signal Cable A2 / Wireworld / Pangea / Magic Power
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Ok, my .02.
As a former hardcore offroad driving SOB I have to say that if you're not going to actually drive your 4x4 off road then lifts and big tires are a waste. Real 4x4's, by nature are harder to drive/control, ride rougher and are more prone to rolling over. Might I suggest for a daily driver, no off road driving that you consider a mild up size in tires and maybe some better shocks, but forget the lift.Political Correctness'.........defined
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F1nut wrote:Ok, my .02.
As a former hardcore offroad driving SOB I have to say that if you're not going to actually drive your 4x4 off road then lifts and big tires are a waste. Real 4x4's, by nature are harder to drive/control, ride rougher and are more prone to rolling over. Might I suggest for a daily driver, no off road driving that you consider a mild up size in tires and maybe some better shocks, but forget the lift.
THAT THERE is REALLY good advice - I have seen stock vehicles driven and spotted carefully do a lot more than you could possibly imagine! I started with a larger tire size before I determined I wanted the extra lift.VA HT HK AVR20II, Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD, Polk Audio RC80i / Polk Audio CSi3, 60" Panasonic Plasma, Nordost / Signal Cable A2 / Wireworld / Pangea / Magic Power
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It really is amazing what some stock 4x4's can do. Years back, I rented a bone stock K5 Blazer (rental approved for off roading) out in AZ for two weeks to hit the trails (mostly rock and bone dry desert, Red Rock area was way cool) and I was quite pleased with it's performance. With a little common sense and years of experience helping out, I didn't get stuck once or have any problems at all.Political Correctness'.........defined
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President of Club Polk -
For my 40th (and two of my buddies also) the wives got together and flew two of us out to Colorado for some wheeling and camping... He's got a (for Colorado) 'lightly' modded XJ on 33's we took up Chinaman's Gulch with some other folks... while we were there we watched a bone stock Suzuki Samurai crawl right over everything - pretty amazing... but not as amazing as the amount of beverage consumption at each days end... Wheelin can be fun - but I prefer to ride and shoot pics instead.VA HT HK AVR20II, Sony S9000ES CD/DVD/SACD, Polk Audio RC80i / Polk Audio CSi3, 60" Panasonic Plasma, Nordost / Signal Cable A2 / Wireworld / Pangea / Magic Power
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Noggin Schiit Valhalla, Pangea, Phillips Fidelio X1, Polk UF8000
Polk SDA1c modded
Polk CRS+ 4.1TL modded (need veneer)
Polk SDA2BTL (fully modded)
A/L 1000VA Dreadnought Canare 4s11 SDA cable
SACD Marantz DV8300
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Yamaha YP-D6
Soundcraftsmen PCR800
Audible Illusions L1 Preamp
Vincent MFA based Cocci Tube Preamp
Pho-700 Phono Pre
Signal Cable Silver Resolution IC's -
My 96 jeep cherokee in stock trim (not even the upcountry package) never ceased to amaze me. I did some crazy **** with it before I traded it in for my Volvo.
I wouldnt lift it until you tried it offroad in stock trim, then see if you a) like it and b) want more. if you dont have skidplates, watch out stradling big rocks. have funLiving Room 2 Channel -
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Sounds like you had a great time.
I'm mostly into soft, cushy rides these days, but one of these years I'm going to look up Frank Z and get my Colorado on, beautiful country from what I've seen in his pics.Political Correctness'.........defined
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President of Club Polk -
FrankZ, didn't you have a Durango before the jeep?