Bi-Wire or Wired Jumper for fronts
landry_p2000
Posts: 1,313
Will a set of bi-wire speaker cables do the same job as a wire jumper, and what materials would I need to make my own jumpers for front speakers? Maybe a 3" piece of 12g speaker cable with spade terminators on the ends, and removing the metal flat jumpers from the speakers?
Is there a noticeable difference in the bi-wired or jumper set-up? Are they both better than the factory metal jumpers? I know I am asking alot of questions, I just want to be sure I get it right.
Is there a noticeable difference in the bi-wired or jumper set-up? Are they both better than the factory metal jumpers? I know I am asking alot of questions, I just want to be sure I get it right.
Main Set-up: 55" 120 hz Samsung LN55B650, Onkyo TX-SR806, Emotiva XPA-5, Emotiva XPA-2, PS3 Slim, Sony BDP-S560, Apple TV (160g), Panamax M5300-PM, Polk Audio CSi5, RTi10's, FXi3's, RTi4's, and SVS PB12 Plus
Bedroom: Panasonic 50" S2 Plasma and Panasonic BD65 blu-ray player, Onkyo TX-SR707, Emotiva XPA-3, Emotiva UPA-2, KEF IQ7's, IQc, IQ8Ds, and SVS PB10-ISD
Bedroom: Panasonic 50" S2 Plasma and Panasonic BD65 blu-ray player, Onkyo TX-SR707, Emotiva XPA-3, Emotiva UPA-2, KEF IQ7's, IQc, IQ8Ds, and SVS PB10-ISD
Post edited by landry_p2000 on
Comments
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Noticeable is subjective. I used 12awg and spades for mine.
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ive bi wired my speakers (i think i have aneyway) i reamoved the jumpers and ran 2 sets of 78 strand cable (£15 from maplin) to the terminal on my amp ,ive just twisted the ends together and put them in the same output. i dont even no what effect this has. ive never thought of just doing my own jumpers. (dont just take my oppinion wait for more expereance) i dont even know wether i should get better cable because a universety did a test and 13a mains cable barely has a heareble change to more expensive cables.ELECTRONICS
arcam cd93
linn wakonda
MC2 MC450
Teac ud h01 DAC
SPEAKERS
Tannoy DC6 t se . -
leftover cable and bare ends on mine
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PolkThug wrote:Noticeable is subjective. I used 12awg and spades for mine.
Thanks for the input. Do you have a pic of the finished product?Main Set-up: 55" 120 hz Samsung LN55B650, Onkyo TX-SR806, Emotiva XPA-5, Emotiva XPA-2, PS3 Slim, Sony BDP-S560, Apple TV (160g), Panamax M5300-PM, Polk Audio CSi5, RTi10's, FXi3's, RTi4's, and SVS PB12 Plus
Bedroom: Panasonic 50" S2 Plasma and Panasonic BD65 blu-ray player, Onkyo TX-SR707, Emotiva XPA-3, Emotiva UPA-2, KEF IQ7's, IQc, IQ8Ds, and SVS PB10-ISD -
Willow wrote:leftover cable and bare ends on mine
Bare wire throough the post terminal holes under the red and black post covers? I may go with the spades for this. Radio Shack should have the ones I need. Why do so many guys bi-wire?
Thanks Willow.
Check your pm.Main Set-up: 55" 120 hz Samsung LN55B650, Onkyo TX-SR806, Emotiva XPA-5, Emotiva XPA-2, PS3 Slim, Sony BDP-S560, Apple TV (160g), Panamax M5300-PM, Polk Audio CSi5, RTi10's, FXi3's, RTi4's, and SVS PB12 Plus
Bedroom: Panasonic 50" S2 Plasma and Panasonic BD65 blu-ray player, Onkyo TX-SR707, Emotiva XPA-3, Emotiva UPA-2, KEF IQ7's, IQc, IQ8Ds, and SVS PB10-ISD -
I just use a 6" length of spare 12 awg bare wire with bananas running to the top posts. I don't ever remove them so not much need for spades at the moment. I'm not sure I noticed a difference but it was cheap and looks kinda cool.
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landry_p2000 wrote:Thanks for the input. Do you have a pic of the finished product?
http://www.polkaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=4018 -
landry_p2000 wrote:Thanks for the input. Do you have a pic of the finished product?
MichaelMains.............Polk LSi15 (Cherry)
Center............Polk LSiC (Crossover upgraded)
Surrounds.......Polk LSi7 (Gloss Black - wood sides removed and crossovers upgraded)
Subwoofers.....SVS 25-31 CS+ and PC+ (both 20hz tune)
Pre\Pro...........NAD T163 (Modded with LM4562 opamps)
Amplifier.........Cinepro 3k6 (6-channel, 500wpc@4ohms) -
Thanks for the pics fellas. I am on the right path now. I will post pics once I finish my "custom" jumpers. This is my plan, sort of a cross between McLoki and PTs jumpers. Top posts will have 12g wire about 2"-3" long connected with spades, and the bottom posts will be connected with banana plugs. Then I will plug the banana plugs from the speaker cables in the top posts.Main Set-up: 55" 120 hz Samsung LN55B650, Onkyo TX-SR806, Emotiva XPA-5, Emotiva XPA-2, PS3 Slim, Sony BDP-S560, Apple TV (160g), Panamax M5300-PM, Polk Audio CSi5, RTi10's, FXi3's, RTi4's, and SVS PB12 Plus
Bedroom: Panasonic 50" S2 Plasma and Panasonic BD65 blu-ray player, Onkyo TX-SR707, Emotiva XPA-3, Emotiva UPA-2, KEF IQ7's, IQc, IQ8Ds, and SVS PB10-ISD -
Well guys, after I left work today I went to Radio Shack, and this is what I came up with. A couple of sets of banana plugs, 3" 12g AR cable for both towers, and a package of spades.Main Set-up: 55" 120 hz Samsung LN55B650, Onkyo TX-SR806, Emotiva XPA-5, Emotiva XPA-2, PS3 Slim, Sony BDP-S560, Apple TV (160g), Panamax M5300-PM, Polk Audio CSi5, RTi10's, FXi3's, RTi4's, and SVS PB12 Plus
Bedroom: Panasonic 50" S2 Plasma and Panasonic BD65 blu-ray player, Onkyo TX-SR707, Emotiva XPA-3, Emotiva UPA-2, KEF IQ7's, IQc, IQ8Ds, and SVS PB10-ISD -
I also found out that speaker cable jumpers are a far better conductor of sound than those flat metal jumpers. My overall sound improved, including deeper bass, more clear and pronounced highs and mids. I was able to get room rattling bass from my towers without the use of my PSW505. To anyone out there running those flat jumpers, you should give it a shot, and I think you will be glad you did it.Main Set-up: 55" 120 hz Samsung LN55B650, Onkyo TX-SR806, Emotiva XPA-5, Emotiva XPA-2, PS3 Slim, Sony BDP-S560, Apple TV (160g), Panamax M5300-PM, Polk Audio CSi5, RTi10's, FXi3's, RTi4's, and SVS PB12 Plus
Bedroom: Panasonic 50" S2 Plasma and Panasonic BD65 blu-ray player, Onkyo TX-SR707, Emotiva XPA-3, Emotiva UPA-2, KEF IQ7's, IQc, IQ8Ds, and SVS PB10-ISD -
That`s what I did...except I have it the other way around...mine plugs into the bottom posts...don`t think it matters though
seems to sound better than the metal jumpers do
my Parasound amp is set up for bi-wire application, so on the 2 ch rig I use 2 seperate wires...
how does it sound ?
did you notice a difference ?
either way , it looks cool
thats some fat cable ya got there son..!!!Cary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)
:cool: -
beardog03 wrote:That`s what I did...except I have it the other way around...mine plugs into the bottom posts...don`t think it matters though
seems to sound better than the metal jumpers do
my Parasound amp is set up for bi-wire application, so on the 2 ch rig I use 2 seperate wires...
how does it sound ?
did you notice a difference ?
either way , it looks cool
thats some fat cable ya got there son..!!!
Thanks alot Bear. I noticed a definite improvement in sound. I would recommend this "upgrade" to everyone. That is some Acoustic Research 12g cable from Best Buy. The 30 foot spool was $29.99.Main Set-up: 55" 120 hz Samsung LN55B650, Onkyo TX-SR806, Emotiva XPA-5, Emotiva XPA-2, PS3 Slim, Sony BDP-S560, Apple TV (160g), Panamax M5300-PM, Polk Audio CSi5, RTi10's, FXi3's, RTi4's, and SVS PB12 Plus
Bedroom: Panasonic 50" S2 Plasma and Panasonic BD65 blu-ray player, Onkyo TX-SR707, Emotiva XPA-3, Emotiva UPA-2, KEF IQ7's, IQc, IQ8Ds, and SVS PB10-ISD -
Nice job, man you don't waste time. !!
As for bi-wiring I don't know why people do this. I have tried it and for the extra cable price it was not worth the improvement. -
Willow wrote:Nice job, man you don't waste time. !!
As for bi-wiring I don't know why people do this. I have tried it and for the extra cable price it was not worth the improvement.
Maybe I'm missing something, but if you're biwiring, it looks to me like you only need about 2 ft. of extra cable, right? -
DC106 wrote:Maybe I'm missing something, but if you're biwiring, it looks to me like you only need about 2 ft. of extra cable, right?
Bi-wiring is two sets of full length cable back to the receiver/amp.