TV Preference
kberg
Posts: 974
With all of the current large screen (>34") TV formats, which one is your favorite?
Mains: polkaudio RTi70's (bi-wired)
Center: polkaudio CSi40 (bi-wired)
Surrounds: polkaudio FXi30's
Rear Center: polkaudio CSi30
Sub: SVS 20-39 PC+
Receiver: ONKYO TX-SR600
Display: JVC HD-56G786
DVD Player: SONY DVP-CX985V
DVD Player: OPPO DV-981HD 1080p High Definition Up-Converting Universal DVD Player with HDMI
Remote: Logitech Harmony H688
Center: polkaudio CSi40 (bi-wired)
Surrounds: polkaudio FXi30's
Rear Center: polkaudio CSi30
Sub: SVS 20-39 PC+
Receiver: ONKYO TX-SR600
Display: JVC HD-56G786
DVD Player: SONY DVP-CX985V
DVD Player: OPPO DV-981HD 1080p High Definition Up-Converting Universal DVD Player with HDMI
Remote: Logitech Harmony H688
Post edited by kberg on
Comments
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HDTVPolkFest 2012, who's going>?
Vancouver, Canada Sept 30th, 2012 - Madonna concert :cheesygrin: -
Mitsu Diamond CRT RPTV. Can't beat the picture from a CRT. Period.
Now if you take that out of the equation, LCoS all the way. DLP sucks for sports (seriously, watch basketball on there and look at the grain on the floor... it's not there!) and LCD has the screendoor effect that I see on all LCD's. LCoS seems to be the only one I don't find to many issues with. Less noise, that's for sure.Never kick a fresh **** on a hot day.
Home Setup: Sony VPL-VW85 Projo, 92" Stewart Firehawk, Pioneer Elite SC-65, PS3, RTi12 fronts, CSi5, FXi6 rears, RTi6 surround backs, RTi4 height, MFW-15 Subwoofer.
Car Setup: OEM Radio, RF 360.2v2, Polk SR6500 quad amped off 4 Xtant 1.1 100w mono amps, Xtant 6.1 to run an eD 13av.2, all Stinger wiring and Raammat deadener. -
DLP or LCD front projection at 80-100 inches wide (not diagonal)
It costs less and has alot bigger WOW factor!:D Then buy a 30something CRT 4:3 TV from Walmart for $300 for news or casual TV. Alot more people are doing this since their audio systems have gotten bigger than the screen sizes.HT Optoma HD25 LV on 80" DIY Screen, Anthem MRX 300 Receiver, Pioneer Elite BDP 51FD Polk CS350LS, Polk SDA1C, Polk FX300, Polk RT55, Dual EBS Adire Shiva 320watt tuned to 17hz, ICs-DIY Twisted Prs, Speaker-Raymond Cable
2 Channel Thorens TD 318 Grado ZF1, SACD/CD Marantz 8260, Soundstream/Krell DAC1, Audio Mirror PP1, Odyssey Stratos, ADS L-1290, ICs-DIY Twisted , Speaker-Raymond Cable -
I have not gone shopping yet but for x-mas this year we are going to buy a new t.v. and keep saying plasma. but I have not looked yet.
I am interested in what the other posters on this site think.
I hope mor people answer, if not I will have to wait till dec. to figure it all out.:pSkynut
SOPA® Founder
The system Almost there
DVD Onkyo DV-SP802
Sunfire Theater Grand II
Sherbourn 7/2100
Panamax 5510 power conditioner (for electronics)
2 PSAudio UPC-200 power conditioners (for amps)
Front L/R RT3000p (Bi-Wired)
Center CS1000p (Bi-Wired) (under the television)
Center RT2000p's (Bi-Wired) (on each side of the television)
Sur FX1000
SVS ultra plus 2
www.ShadetreesMachineShop.com
Thanks for looking -
As someone who works around TV's all day, I can honestly say that I still prefer, wait for it..., tube tv's. Tube is still the best picture in my opinion, and if it weren't for the fact that all these new tv's that are bigger, thinner and lighter are out, we'd all still be more than happy w/ tube. I love my 30" Widescreen Trinitron, and the KD34XBR950 is a great tv.
That aside, as far as the newer technologies go, I really think Fujitsu Plasmas are the ****. Best PQ, best motion software. AVMII rocks-their proprietary advanced motion chip is so far superior to all the rest, I see motion trailing on every tv w/ Hi-Def signals, but Fujitsu has the least by far.
Pioneer Elite plasmas have excellent pq also, and by far the deepest, richest black levels, but they are fussy when it comes to pq w/ DVDs. I've seen a Pioneer Elite look like **** when using a 5910 DVD player thru high grade comp video cables. Granted, the quality improved a bit thru HDMI, but thru comp vid it looked like SD programming, and that just shouldn't happen w/ that level of equipment.
All in all, I think Fujitsu makes the best non-tube tv, and their current models are the nicest I've seen. Even the 42" EDTV version is superb, and for under $3k to boot.
DLP is decent, the new Samsungs being very good, however lots of motion trailing w/ Hi-Def, although that's more a compression issue than anything else.Current System:
Mitsubishi 30" LCD LT-3020 (for sale**)
Vienna Acoustics Beethoven Concert Grand (Rosewood)-Mains (with Audioquest Mont Blanc cables)
CSi5-Center (for sale**)
FXi3-surrounds (for sale**)
Martin Logan Depth-Sub
B&K AVR 507
Pimare CD21-CD Player
Denon 1815-DVD Player
Panamax M5500-EX-Line Conditioner -
Interesting posts so far.
As for me, I'm going to keep an eye on the LCoS technology. Although new and pricey because of it, it may be an excellent contender.
The problem I have with plasmas is not so much the burn-in issue, but rather the potential life expectancy. I mean, dropping thousands on a TV that could have a half-life of 13 years doesn't really appeal to me. On the other hand, I don't like the trailing effect of DLP's and screendoor effect of LCD's (even though they are typically expected to last about twice as long).
I also agree with gregure - you can't beat the tube sets - but damn, if they could only be made with large screens and remain thin/lighter weight!Mains: polkaudio RTi70's (bi-wired)
Center: polkaudio CSi40 (bi-wired)
Surrounds: polkaudio FXi30's
Rear Center: polkaudio CSi30
Sub: SVS 20-39 PC+
Receiver: ONKYO TX-SR600
Display: JVC HD-56G786
DVD Player: SONY DVP-CX985V
DVD Player: OPPO DV-981HD 1080p High Definition Up-Converting Universal DVD Player with HDMI
Remote: Logitech Harmony H688 -
I have a 65"CRT, 46" DLP...soon a FP LCD (when HT room is done) My fav so far is the DLP. I can only say from what Ive owned. I might true Plasma HD better...but that will be in the future
My 32"/27" tube TV's..though outdated...still have good pics. -
CRT has the best picture, hands down... but they weigh 2 feaking tons and you can't go much over 34" WS with it. Of the rest, LCD projection is my favorite. My eyesight is pretty bad, so I can't actually see the screen door effect (at normal distance), whereas I can see the trails on DLP and CRT projection is just too clunky (and off angle viewing tends to suck). Front projection does give you a huge WOW effect, but you really need a basement room for that to truly work.Gallo Ref 3.1 : Bryston 4b SST : Musical fidelity CD Pre : VPI HW-19
Gallo Ref AV, Frankengallo Ref 3, LC60i : Bryston 9b SST : Meridian 565
Jordan JX92s : MF X-T100 : Xray v8
Backburner:Krell KAV-300i -
I voted plasma. Previously I would have never considered one but after lucking onto one for 75% off I have been converted. If mine broke today I would buy another at full price if necessary.
madmaxVinyl, the final frontier...
Avantgarde horns, 300b tubes, thats the kinda crap I want... -
Still love my 40" Mitsubishi tube tv. But it does weigh a ton, well almost, right at 400 lbs. Great picture though.
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I have a 36" Toshiba...
Outstanding PQ..!!
Weighs a lot though...
We were looking at the new "thin" TV`s, but the ones I really liked...no way I`m paying that for a TV..!!
Samsung, and believe it or not...Pioneer have nice pic`sCary SLP-98L F1 DC Pre Amp (Jag Blue)
Parasound HCA-3500
Cary Audio V12 amp (Jag Red)
Polk Audio Xm Reciever (Autographed by THE MAN Himself) :cool:
Magnum Dynalab MD-102 Analog Tuna
Jolida JD-100 CDP
Polk Audio LSi9 Speaks (ebony)
SVS PC-Ultra Sub
AQ Bedrock Speaker Cables (Bi-Wired)
MIT Shotgun S1 I/C`s
AQ Black Thunder Sub Cables
PS Audio Plus Power Cords
Magnum Dynalab ST-2 FM Antenna
Sanus Cherry wood Speak Stands
Adona AV45CS3 / 3 Tier Rack (Black /Gold)
:cool: -
Tubes are still the best, IMO.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Back in Sept. my old Mits 36 incher finally bit the dust, so out I went on a search for a new set and I brought home a Mits 48 inch Widescreen HDTV CRT RPTV. It's a great set and if you haven't seen HD you are really missing the boat!2 Channel:
Amp/Parasound Halo A23
Pre/Carver C-1
Tuner/Carver TX-11a
CDP/Jolida JD 100A
Turntable/AR XB-Shure V15 III -
Tubes are my favorite. Its such a shame that their footprint is so big.
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I too think tubes are the best TVs.
Especially considering the bang for the buck. You can get a 35" Toshiba CRT for $500 at Best Buy and 32" sets can be had for under $300!!!
However, the only set that made my jaw drop in a showroom was a Pioneer Elite plasma. Simply breathtaking.polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st
polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D -
Well, my current set is a direct view HD CRT (KD-34XS955 - man I love this TV), but since they don't get over 34" I'll have to go with RP HD CRT for this poll. I just can not live with the problems digital sets (LCD/DLP/LCoS/DiLA) display. Projection LCD is the worst offender in my eyes (I used to own an LCD FP), but all of them are lacking in dynamic range and color accuracy compared to a top-notch tube. I guess if I had to go with a digital set (which may be the case as tubes continue to get phased out) it would be plasma - at least they have reasonable colors and contrast. Tubes rule!Tannoy Dimension TD10, SOTA Star Sapphire, Heathkit W4A's, McIntosh MC2100, Eddie-Current Zana Deux, Singlepower SDS, Sennheiser HD650, Audio-Technica L3000, Sony Qualia 010
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If you're in the RP CRT catagory, you'd better buy one while you can. More and more manufacturers are stopping production of them.
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I just bought a new 50" Samsung DLP. The picture with the HD box is great. I don't see any trails in the picture.
I will say that our 32" tube set still has a better picture when the HD is Not on.Michael
Samsung 50" HD DLP
Yamaha RX-V2500
(2) Outlaw 200
Adcom GFA 555
Sony BDP300
Denon 2900 DVD
Lsi9's mains
Lsi7's rear
Lsic center
12.1 SVS driver in 4.53 cuft. tube
Harmony 880 -
I'm for the RP CRT. I don't like the rainbow and silk screen effects from DLP and I don't think LCD or LCOS have true enough blacks yet. Plasma is outta my price range.
My adversion to DLP may change as we start seeing the next generation of 1080p microdisplays from Samsung.
At this point, IMHO, when a RP CRT is properly converged, tweaked, and calibrated, they look as good or better than most of the the other competing technologies, except for plasma.For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore... -
Sony KD34XBR960 is still my favorite set for overall picture quality (when the geometry and convergence are good).
If I personally had to go above 34in I would probably go for a DLP, such as the toshiba 46HM84. I still think that any properly calibrated RPTV will beat out a dlp, lcd, or lcos, but the gap is closing. In my situation it would not be possible for me to go with a RPTV, hence the vote for DLP.
With the new 1080p sets coming out like the samsung HLR dlps, or the new toshibas with the TalenX chip, perhaps dlps will be able to overtake RPTVs.
Jared -
I prefer CRT for standard def stuff and RP DLPs for HD stuff. I haven't had much experience with front projectors, so I'll stay out of that realm of comments.Brian Knauss
ex-Electrical Engineer for Polk -
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front projecton is the way to go 120+in diag for less than 2k and you do not have the box in the room
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Originally posted by Skynut
I have not gone shopping yet but for x-mas this year we are going to buy a new t.v. and keep saying plasma.
I have a 26" Mitsubishi that just turned 20 years old. One trip to the repair shop five years ago after I plugged the S-video out from my computer into the TV at the other end of the room. I learned the $100 repair way that sometimes AC outlets can be out of phase. :rolleyes:
CRT's beat the hell out of changing bulbs every 2,000 hours. I've been thinking about buying a Plasma from Auctiondrop but still have not made the decision. DLP is a close 2nd.
Auctiondrop sells plasma's every week with local pick up in Fremont California. Apparently they have a no-hassle return policy. Some are scratch & dent's but others "appear to be new" like this one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5773993896 -
Fremont is not too far, (probably an hour) I will keep that in mind.
We will have to go out and audition several sets before we decide what to buy.
I never knew there were so many issues with newer televisions.Skynut
SOPA® Founder
The system Almost there
DVD Onkyo DV-SP802
Sunfire Theater Grand II
Sherbourn 7/2100
Panamax 5510 power conditioner (for electronics)
2 PSAudio UPC-200 power conditioners (for amps)
Front L/R RT3000p (Bi-Wired)
Center CS1000p (Bi-Wired) (under the television)
Center RT2000p's (Bi-Wired) (on each side of the television)
Sur FX1000
SVS ultra plus 2
www.ShadetreesMachineShop.com
Thanks for looking -
Originally posted by Gaara
Sony KD34XBR960 is still my favorite set for overall picture quality (when the geometry and convergence are good).
If I personally had to go above 34in I would probably go for a DLP, such as the toshiba 46HM84. I still think that any properly calibrated RPTV will beat out a dlp, lcd, or lcos, but the gap is closing. In my situation it would not be possible for me to go with a RPTV, hence the vote for DLP.
Jared
Jared, all DLP sets are RPTV (except for the front projectors) as are LCOS and all of the non-flat panel LCDs sets. I think you are confusing the term RPTV. There are many different types of RPTV. The oldest and most familiar is the CRT based RPTV, but the DLP based, LCD based, and LCOS based are still RPTVs because they project an image from behind onto a lenticular screen. The difference is that CRT sets use 3 small CRTs to project onto the screen, while LCD, DLP, and LCOS uses a bright light source which is then manipulated into an image using the digital chip(s) or LCDs.For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore... -
I have a CRT (RPTV), but I am wanting a LCD tv for the longevity and the "burn-in" resistance to video games and long pauses on dvds. No complaints on the PQ of my CRT tv.;)Main Set-up: 55" 120 hz Samsung LN55B650, Onkyo TX-SR806, Emotiva XPA-5, Emotiva XPA-2, PS3 Slim, Sony BDP-S560, Apple TV (160g), Panamax M5300-PM, Polk Audio CSi5, RTi10's, FXi3's, RTi4's, and SVS PB12 Plus
Bedroom: Panasonic 50" S2 Plasma and Panasonic BD65 blu-ray player, Onkyo TX-SR707, Emotiva XPA-3, Emotiva UPA-2, KEF IQ7's, IQc, IQ8Ds, and SVS PB10-ISD -
when you guys complain about LCD picture & blacks I dont think you guys have seen the Sony's out there, they stand far above the competition and look about 30% better than RPTV crts in HDTV
This 55"RP LCD has better quality than any Mitsu RP CRT, and considering the size just as good quality in proportion to any tube hdtv
LCD is the future, especially since they will soon be made with ultra bright LED back lighting, only one on the market today w/ LED, a 46" $15,000 sony
Audio Physic Scorpio II
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Originally posted by Lsi9
when you guys complain about LCD picture & blacks I dont think you guys have seen the Sony's out there, they stand far above the competition and look about 30% better than RPTV crts in HDTV
30%? Really? How did you measure that? I find that hard to believe that a 1280x720 display looks 30% better than a 1080i display (approx 1280x1080), even with less resolution.
Yes the Sony GWIII series look nicer than most of the 3-panel LCD RPTVs, but they still do not produce true blacks. If you put a properly converged and calibrated CRT based set next to a GWIII that has been calibrated and try and watch a movie on both sets in a dimmed room, you will see the difference between true black and gray. The LCD sets get away with this by making the overall image brighter, which is fine in a brightly lit room, but try watching a movie at night in that torch mode.For rig details, see my profile. Nothing here anymore...