01 sentra

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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    i take the smiling as a "what an idiot" typa thing, which is fine, im used to it.... Im just looking for ways to make installing easier, since I already have the 675s out and the holes open id just get a midrange and leave it in the trunk instead of tearing apart the rear dash again...
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited December 2005
    no, no, not "what an idiot", just that it probably wouldn't work out so well, getting midrange frequencies from the trunk to the cabin and still having them sound at all good...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    ohh, yeah... well, theyre not so much for the front passengers as the rear passengers, i wont have it blasting, just a rear fill/extra kick kinda thing.
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    Well, heres the speaker i was referring to, id rather a dayton, but this had a higher response rating, i dont know who got the data for that rating... but id never get anywhere being that paranoid.
    http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=290-312&scqty=2
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    scrap the 8 idea... im such a woman when it come to deciding things... lol I have to exhaust every possibility. I think I asked this before in another thread but i forget where... for car coaxial speakers, they need an infinite baffle setup, correct? I remember trying to put some in boxes and they sounded like ****, I figure the enclosures were too small. Im probably going to use the 675's in my workshop, for size reasons, and I picked up a set of 7" mids for the sentra, they should hopefully fit.

    As an expreiment, I put some peel and seal on the frame and cone of an old 8" paper cone woofer, and the added stiffness really tightened up the low end, and made them a little less bright.. fun times. Although if I do it again, Id probably just use the back of the cone, it looks weird having a silver star of tar on the front.. :p
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited December 2005
    yeah, they're designed for IB, so if you box them you'll want to use something large... the purpose of the box in this case is solely to contain the backwave, not provide cone control...

    and i find it interesting that you like the dampened cone better, though i suppose for a midbass that extra weight probably wouldn't matter a whole lot...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    well, it was an old paper cone with a fabric surround, it weighed down the cone and stiffened it, reducing its high end, but making the lows a little clearer.

    And with the IB setup, I was thinking of putting a pipe behind the speaker, just to keep the backwave away from the front, put a screen over the other end to keep crap from getting in there.
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited December 2005
    that's basically what i have now... (crappily-done) fiberglass door pods, they were originally sealed, but i cut the back end off because they turned out to be much too small... so they're essentially just that, a pipe open at one end, and even that amount of containment of the backwave (and a bit of dampening on the inside of the pod, and getting the speaker outside of the door skin) made a big difference in the sound...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    ok, now for another question. I currently have db650s in the front doors, and they sound great, but the stage is kinda low. I was wondering if adding a set of tweeters to the a-pillars along with the 650s would have too much treble... I was considering the dayton 3/4 inch dome tweeter, but I dont know if I could get a grille for it, and it runs at 6 ohms. I may just get the matching dayton 6.5s if need be, but they run 8 ohms... with my amps running at 50w at 4ohms, that would be a whopping 25 watts, that would be enough for me though. :D
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited December 2005
    if you're using tweets to raise the soundstage, xover them really really high, like 10kHz or more, and turn down the main tweets a little bit in this range to compensate... that way you get the imaging of the main tweets and the 10kHz+ tweets raise your stage...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    to turn down the main tweets, should i just add a resistor from the tweeter positive lead to ground or another cap inline?
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited December 2005
    you want to keep as much out of the signal path (especially to the tweets) as possible... so if there's an adjustment on the main tweet's xover, use that... or you can use the equaliser on your HU, or an external eq, or a very shallow slope xover on your amp... it's an unusual setup, so you'll have to get creative (or get this xover :eek:)...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    well, theyre coaxial, so id have to either use a resistor or disconnect it entirely, to hell with that external ****. I already have the headunit treble 3 clicks down out of 5, so yeah, ill probably disconnect the tweeter....
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited December 2005
    disconnecting the main tweet would be a bad thing - it gives you most of your music (compared to the stage tweet)... putting a resistor in there would be a better solution...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    ok then, resistance is no longer futile, but now necessary... or something
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited December 2005
    indeed... your... um... stage height?... will now be assimilated!
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    Yay!
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    yay!
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    double posted! oh yes...
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited December 2005
    so when i added the weight to the paper 8" woofer, I both stiffened the cone and added a good amount of weight, but what did it do sonically? Im surmising that it lowered the resonant frequency a tad and made it more subwooferish. Would I be wrong in that?
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited December 2005
    i really have no idea, but i'd say that would be a good guess, yep...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited February 2006
    well, this morning my driver side speaker stopped working... im hoping a wire came loose... Im not going back in my doors until I install my amps (2 x 2channel). In case ur wondering, i got the two 2 channel MTX's for $100 shipped, so i cheapskated out of a four channel, so what? :-p Oh, and im putting in a bass blocker for my doors and a low pass coil (800hz) for the rears. Thats all the updates i can think of...
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
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