01 sentra

24

Comments

  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited May 2005
    i just got them put in the rear, it was a bit of a pain, but man, the imaging is worth it!! the old speakers sound like mud compared to these!! I definitely need an amp of some kind, if i turn the radio up i hear the bass notes turning into a "bwwwwwoomp" and i dont think thats a good thing...
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  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited May 2005
    It aint gonna hurt the speakers. Your head unit wont put out much more than 30 watts max even at full clip and thats way below the limits of those DB's.

    But thats no reason not to get an amp. Consider it like you wouldnt want a Corvette with a 100 horsepower 4 cylinder in it would ya? Kind of the same thing. Youll never get the full potential out of those DB's with a mere 12 watts RMS.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited May 2005
    so basically i would need something with about 60wattsx4 RMS if i wanted to amp all the coaxials... the c400.4 seems to fit that bill, are there any alternatives to consider?
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  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited May 2005
    The C400.4 is actually a 90x4 amp.

    However, it will still be fine for those speakers. It will make plenty of power for you to crank them cleanly. Just be aware that amp has more than enough power to blow a hole clean thru those speakers as well so take care with the crankin'!
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited May 2005
    well, since i got the 675s in the rear now, im thinking of ways to have a sub fire into the cabin, i did notice an approx. 3inx4in hole cut into the back dash metal, probably for some option they didnt include, so if i get an 8in sub and cut a hole through the fiberboard cover, would that provide enough of an opening? <granted I mount the sub in the trunk and not in the hole> :-P
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited May 2005
    i went ahead and tried a carboard mockup of some enclosures for my 675s and as soon as i closed the trunklid, <smush> theres a bar that goes across the two hinges for the trunklid, i think they help hold up the trunk when its open, and also hampers my enclousre ideas... i guess if i did have a sub id have to mount it to the floor of the trunk firing upward through the aforementioned hole... which is a shame, i wanted to keep the trunk fairly usable since it aint so big to begin with any ideas on a solution, i dont knwo if the bar is removable...
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  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited May 2005
    the hole will be sufficient for sound to get through, sub-bass travels very well... and if you're decent with fiberglass, you can usually cram a sub into a corner somewhere...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited May 2005
    fiberglass eh? interesting idea..
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  • Systems
    Systems Posts: 14,873
    edited June 2005
    ok, so i still never got around to getting an amp... :( i was thinking of just taking out the 675's in the rear, cause i dont taxi people that often, and it would be easier to just use a 4 channel amp <any suggestions on a low price one that doesnt suck?>, two channels for the front, bridged for the sub, but im still a little lost as to how to orient the subwoofer... does it matter which way it faces? Ive heard that aiming it at something makes it sound better, but would it be better to have it facing up through the holes from the rear speakersso u can hear it in the cabin? i also cant decide on whether to get 2 8's cause they can fit in smaller enclosures and save a lil space, or a 10" because i already have one from another project. The trunk is kinda full as it is, i really oughta clean it out...

    The 10" is a tsw29c, 120w nominal
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  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited July 2005
    well, its been hot as hell lately, but i took out the rear speakers and put a lil peel and seal around the holes in the doors and mounted the 650s there. That stuff is easy to work with, i was suprised, i actually had fun :) The peel and seal doesnt stink like i thought it would, which is also a plus. I put on maybe 3 layers. I honestly dont know if the stuff made a difference, but i know the speakers did, its weird now, im used to the sound being mostly behind me.. Ill keep it up front for a while, just to see if it grows on me. I still have a lot of this stuff left, i was thinking of putting some on the floor, but theres already some stuff there from the factory, can i just layer peel and seal over that? I think that will make a big difference, since i can hear the roaring four through the floor.. or firewall, but that doesnt rhyme... Oh, and one more question.. that plastic stuff on the inside of the door, should i take that off if i decide to deaden the door ? I wasnt sure, i mean they musta put it there for a reason, whatever that reason may be. :D:p
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited July 2005
    well, i went to try and pull up the carpet to get a better idea of what im dealing with, and it turns out i have to take out a bolt that holds a flange around the steering column, i dont think its worth going through that trouble... maybe my next vehicle ill go on to soundproof the whole damn thing. im thinkin a '57 chevy lol no 'puters and plenty of sheet metal :)
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited July 2005
    In late model cars, you dont have to worry about soundproofing as much. Some dont have much but others are pretty quiet. The main reaons youll use sound proofing is for vibration damping. I wouldnt worry about pulling all the inards out of the car. Unless its just ridiculously noisey in there it wont be worth the trouble.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited August 2005
    yeah, the computers can contribute a significant amount of (electrical) noise - removing them entirely is one way to get around that, yep :)

    mac is right on the soundproofing, though, all but the cheapest and most expensive cars have plenty of deadening - the cheapest lose it to save money, the most expensive lose it to save weight (consider, for example, the lotus elise - about 12 pounds of insulation in the whole thing, and that's probably being pretty generous)
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited August 2005
    well, i have the low end sentra, so i think they skimped on the soundproofing a bit, i mean the roadnoise is fairly pronounced. I know its not a cadillac, but i think it should be quieter. Are theyre any other things i could try? I think ill use the rest of my peel and seal on the doors, since i already got 'em started. Oh, and the db's are starting to "widen up" a bit, theyre not as focused as they were at first :)
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited August 2005
    Well, it sure cant hurt. If youve already got the stuff then go for it.

    You cant really have too much sound damping I suppose.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited August 2005
    true dat... if road noise is your problem, pull up the carpet and stick it on the floor, or put it on the tire wells inside the cabin - that'll block some of the tire noise...

    and for non-critical applications like that, peel n' seal is as good as dynamat...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited August 2005
    what would be a critical aplication that u would need dynamat? the trunk?
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited August 2005
    behind the speakers, or in the general vicinity of anything important... i.e. peel n' seal for the firewall and floor, dynamat for parts of the inside of the doors, etc...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited August 2005
    Anything the speakers are mounted to. They can make the mounting surface vibrate and that can screw up the sound of the speaker. So if youre mounting your speakers in your doors, Dynamat the hell out of the door panel, inside and out.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited August 2005
    well, on the note of vibration **** up the sound of the speaker, i noticed that the drivers side mirror teds to shake more than the passenger side, i dont know if it just looks that way because im on the drivers side, or if perhaps i need more deadening... could my driver door's vibrating contribute to the fact that i hear the passenger side clearly over the drivers side? i just thought it was because the speaker was so close to the floor on the drivers side that i couldnt hear it as much... its like im sitting on the door panel, the sound waves go right past me lol
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited August 2005
    yes, it is because you're closer to the driver's mirror - mine did this too, so i sat in the passenger seat and tried it, and it seemed like the passenger's mirror was shaking more...

    as to the imbalance, if your mid is down next to your feet, you're getting about half the sound you should be from the driver's side, which will throw off your balance...
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited August 2005
    If you have coaxials in the doors then the tweeter is firing into your leg and youre missing out on a lot of its frequency response where the passenger tweeter is firing more on axis to your ears so you hear it clearer.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited August 2005
    i pulled my drivers side door apart again, this time with the courage to peel back that plastic sheet thats asphalted to the metal... its probably not asphalt, but it looks like tar... anyway, i had to take off a few bolt-on supports, and lo and behold i found a piece of styrofoam, only about 5 inches wide, unsecured, and probably what i heard rattling. I have no idea as to why there was a piece of styrofoam in my door, it had nissan printed on it, but i took it out anyway. i tried to put some peel and seal in there since i had it handy, but its tricky getting it on the doorskin, since theres not much room to work and i have big oaf hands. :(
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
  • MacLeod
    MacLeod Posts: 14,358
    edited August 2005
    My guess would be thats the factory "attempt" at sound damping.

    My Ram is the same way. The inner door panel isnt a single piece and has holes all over it plus its covered as well. I just Dynamatted the inside of the door thru the speaker hole. I slapped a bunch around where the speaker mounted and then a bunch opposite of the speaker as well.
    polkaudio sound quality competitor since 2005
    MECA SQ Rookie of the Year 06 ~ MECA State Champ 06,07,08,11 ~ MECA World Finals 2nd place 06,07,08,09
    08 Car Audio Nationals 1st ~ 07 N Georgia Nationals 1st ~ 06 Carl Casper Nationals 1st ~ USACi 05 Southeast AutumnFest 1st

    polkaudio SR6500 --- polkaudio MM1040 x2 -- Pioneer P99 -- Rockford Fosgate P1000X5D
  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited August 2005
    oh, so u dont have to do the whole door, just around where the speaker is?
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited August 2005
    more = better

    but start behind the speaker and work outward from there
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited August 2005
    If its not one thing, its another. I think I may have broken or at least somewhat damaged the clips that hold the door handle/trimpiece thing on. Needless to say it rattles now... I hate plastic. I was looking at that Rattlepad stuff on the secondskin site, but im tempted not to spend money and just throw some weatherstripping under the plastic piece and drive them down with self tapping screws. But on the more rational side of my brain, albeit the smaller part, I dont want to destroy the car, since it is fairly new. Money is tight and I have lots of self tapping screws... i hope its hot enough to keep me indoors :-P
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
  • neomagus00
    neomagus00 Posts: 3,899
    edited August 2005
    hehe... yeah, those little clippies suck, perhaps you can get a baggie of replacements from the dealer - it should be relatively cheap

    i usually pick up a variety bag of bolts and a baggie of clips, cause i know, just know, that i'm going to strip or lose a couple bolts and break a couple clips along the way... but that's just me :)
    It's not good, very fundamentally simply not good. - geolemon

    "Its not good enough until we have real-time fearmongering. I want my fear mongered as it happens." - Shizelbs
  • hellohello
    hellohello Posts: 428
    edited August 2005
    i didnt lose any, thank god, but theyre plastic and theyre only meant to be snapped once. stupid plastic crap. so i narrowed down the culprit, the trimpiece around the door lever, time for ebay... or something
    Picking ones nose signifies a strong sense of self discovery :)

    System in the works: ;)
    PP 6V6 with 12ax7 pre ~ 20 watts
    15" Jensen MOD 8ohm ~ 97db SPL
    DiMarzio HS3 and/or Tone Zone S
  • audiobliss
    audiobliss Posts: 12,518
    edited September 2005
    giggerman = hellohello?

    :confused:
    Jstas wrote: »
    Simple question. If you had a cool million bucks, what would you do with it?
    Wonder WTF happened to the rest of my money.
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