Speaker Jumpers

McLoki

I have noticed that when people make jumpers for their speakers (for bi-wire speakers to connect one set of posts to the other - replacing the stock brass plate) that they usually connect them via banana plugs and have a big loop sticking out the back of their speakers.

I just got in some 10-white (10 Ga. speaker wire from Blue Jeans Cable) and wanted to make some of my own jumpers to see if they make any difference at all.

To save on banana plugs, I wanted to run them the same way the existing jumper ran and only use one set of banana plugs per speaker to hook them to the amp.

I cut some wire about the same length as the existing jumper.

McLoki

Then put it in place of the jumper.

McLoki

Then cut the other wire, put it in place, and tightened it all down.

Is there a down side to doing it this way that I am not seeing? It seems like you would want the speaker wire connected via the banana plugs and not your jumper. (who cares if you can remove your jumper quickly...)

Anyway, just wondering before I finish the other speakers.

Michael

McLoki

By the way, it looks like the LSi speakers will take about 8 guage wire. The 10ga. goes in with no problems, but I dont think I could get two of them in there....

Then again, maybe if I tighten down the terminals (12mm wrench), then loosen them, the additional wire MIGHT fit. I plan to go with bananas for the actual speaker to amp connections though so I didn't try it.

Michael

Dennis Gardner

Otta werk!

VR3

You might want to twist the wires on the end...

dragon1952

That 10ga is hard to twist...especially if the individual conductors are thick. You might try a high quality silver content solder.
My question would be, does having the bare wire inserted in that manner prevent the bananas from seating as deeply? Mine are kinda shallow anyway.

McLoki

Twisting was not much of an option on wire sections that short with wire that thick.

What is the purpose of tinning the ends? Does speaker wire corrode that easily? I do have it mashed pretty flat. (had to use a wrench. Could not hand tighten it very much at all.)

Michael

Edit - Wire specs:

Belden 5T00UP - 10 AWG, 2 Conductor
Stranding: 65wires x 28ga.
Conductor Material:Bare High-Conductivity ETP Copper
Insulation Material: PVC - Polyvinyl Chloride
Outer Jacket Material: PVC - Polyvinyl Chloride
NEC/(UL) Specification: CL2 (Audio Use Only)
Nom. Capacitance @ 1 KHz: 26 pF/ft
DC Resistance: 1.03 Ohms/1000 ft

dragon1952

Bare copper wire will oxidize over time. Best to clean it every 6 mos (depending on moisture/humidity) or so if you plan on keeping it that way. Tinning the ends would prevent the oxidation. Might also give you a little better connection. You could also cut and restrip the ends occasionally too.

billbillw

I did something similar, but I used the same 10AWG wire (413 strand 34 AWG rope/ OFC coppper) that I'm using for speaker wire and utilized crimp on spade connecters rather than the bare wire. My bananas wouldn't go in all the way with the bare speaker wire taking up part of depth. I like the way you can really clamp down on the spade connecters as well.

mantis

This is not a bad idea but you stripped the wire back 2 far. You only need to strip it about 1/4 inch or so. You want no conductors showing after you tighten down.

Dan

McLoki

Well - did a quick stop in radio shack and purchase silver solder, a soldering iron (15/30 watt), and some gold spade connectors.

The connectors were to small to fit the LSi's so they will be going back.

I took the jumpers out, tinned the ends of the wires, and put the jumpers back in. (after tinning it took an already stiff wire and made it a real pain in the **** to get back in)

After I was done, I hooked everything back up and tried it out. (keep in mind - only done with one speaker - (left))

For some reason the upper mids seemed really hollow. It just sounded like a really thin speaker with great bass. (keep in mind bass is being crossed over to my SVS at 80hz) I pulled it back apart and put the jumper back in and it sounded better.

Looks like I may have to either forgo the soldering (but will be more careful with how much wire I expose) or will have to get spade lugs for the speakers and hook the jumper up to those.

I could have just been a little loopy breathing in to much smoke from the solder, but it did really sound thin to me. (where it never has before) I didn't have time to give it a proper demo, but for now, I would have to rate my soldering experiment as a failure.

Michael

Willow

You could opt for spades to use on the ends of your jumpers

dragon1952

For some reason the upper mids seemed really hollow. It just sounded like a really thin speaker with great bass. (keep in mind bass is being crossed over to my SVS at 80hz) I pulled it back apart and put the jumper back in and it sounded better.

Geez....what dumbass suggested solder I wonder
Maybe it's gotta break in. Yeah, that's it.....why don't you give it , say....200hrs or so.

rnp614

where does the speaker wire go then?

McLoki

Originally posted by rnp614
where does the speaker wire go then?

It would connect via banana plug.

I am now thinking of getting these ring connectors from parts express to use with my jumpers. then order the banana plugs for my speakers.

Michael

re510

I used the bannanas from parts express and connected two 10 g wires and replaced my jumpers and i work out well

McLoki

RE-510

That does look really nice. Can you post a link to the ones that you purchased. How hard are they to hook both wires to? Also what did you do to give the nice finished look? (just heat shrink or something else???)

Nice Job,

Michael

michael_w

I used bare wire jumpers and my bananas sit the same way as they did with stock jumpers. I might move to spades when I find some decent ones for cheap but for now they are stayin bare. I made mine longer than the stock ones just to make it easier to put them in... I don't think an extra 2 or 3 inches is going to make much of a difference. Yea I didn't bother with heatshrink and all that fancy stuff cause I could really care less and it was just a quick experiment. My plugs are just plain single screw cheap Acoustic Research ones.

jmierzur

McLoki,

The first thing I did to my speakers was to remove the jumpers like michael_w has. The only thing I did differently was to place the banana plugs on the lower terminals.

In addition, I treated the bare wire with a conditioner/lubricant/protectant (Caig ProGold) and after three years, the bare wire looks like I just removed the insulation. While you are at it, treat all the remaining connections in your system.

re510

mcloki,

I used these http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=091-330 They were pretty easy and clamp down good one 10 g in the side and one in the back.
All i used to dress it up was heat shrink. Hope this helps

McLoki

Originally posted by jmierzur
In addition, I treated the bare wire with a conditioner/lubricant/protectant (Caig ProGold) and after three years, the bare wire looks like I just removed the insulation.

Did you use the aerosol or the wipe on stuff? (looks like it comes in a fingernail polish bottle - complete with brush)

Michael

jmierzur

I purchased the aerosol. But I always use a swab or cloth to apply the product as a direct shot with the spray would be too much as well as messy.

dracore

So is there a definite sound difference when replacing the jumper? I'm certainly interested in knowing if just using bare wires (no spades, bananas, or solder) has an equally positive effect.

McLoki: You never mentioned how it sounded when you first initially used bare wires.

McLoki

I am now wondering if the hollow sound was from my DVD player not being warmed up. (just got it) To be truthfull, there was not a large difference between the jumper and bare wire, but I still plan to replace the jumper just because I can and I won't have to worry about it.

I am now thinking of purchasing some of the CAIG stuff listed above rather than tinning the ends of the wire. I have not spent the time to do a decent evalutation yet.

When I purchased my speaker wire, I purchased enough extra to replace all the jumpers.

Michael

audiobliss

Very interesting thread, here. Keep us posted on what you do about your jumpers!

McLoki

Ordered the Caig ProGold 100 this morning. I hope it comes in soon. Once I get that and my banana plugs I should be in good shape to finish this stage of the installation. (I plan to use the pro-gold on all my audio contacts - Speaker wire, Interconnects, etc.)

I will report back when I get it in. Right now, the plan is to use the jumpers similar to how the first pictures were shown, with the addition of the ProGold.

I looked at a number of reviews for it (look on google or google groups) and have seen nothing but glowing reviews for the product.

As I mentioned I will report back when I get it in.

Michael

McLoki

Got everything in and it sounds great..... In classic testing fashion, I changed alot all at the same time so I am not sure where the benefit came from......

I put the Caig Pro-Gold on all speaker wire and banana plugs.

I hooked up the jumpers just like shown in my first picture (but with shorter sections of the wire exposed.)

I replaced my generic 16ga wire that I got at wal-mart with Blue-Jeans cable 10 white. (10 gauge belden speaker cable)

I purchased GLS banana plugs from E-Bay.

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The combo sounds great and I love the way it sounds for what it all costs.... (1 - 7' and 3 - 23' 10ga. cables - $54) (Caig Pro-Gold 100 - $24) (24pack of GLS banana plugs - $40) All prices include shipping and I have enough banana plugs left over for the rest of my system and enough Caig Pro-Gold for every system I will purchase from now till the end of time ....

______________________________________

For my system and what I was upgrading from, it was a big improvement. I would spend the money again.

Michael

Willow

Here is my first set of DIY jumpers:

12AWG HD cable

jmierzur

Originally posted by McLoki
For my system and what I was upgrading from, it was a big improvement. I would spend the money again.

Michael

You're welcome.

McLoki

jmierzur - better late than never -

Thanks for the tip on the pro-gold. If it works half as well as it is reviewed, it will be well worth the cost and effort. (especially if you could see my soldering skills.... )

Michael