Adjustable Hole Saw For Drill Press

tryrrthg

Originally posted by Vr3MxStyler2k3
Is that saw sold at HD or Lowes?

The Ryobi BT3100 is sold at HD for $299, if that question was directed at me.

VR3

I must agree with DKG here, I want my stuff to work all the time...

I will have to look into a different option, but one of the goals is a huge rip table... lol

Thanks for all of the help, now I just need to order that jig!

unc2701

I say focus on the router first... Everything that you can do with a table saw you can do with a circular saw- maybe not as well, but you can do it. There's a lot of stuff you can only do with a router.

Here's how you make a ghetto table saw:
1)lay down a cheap foam insulation sheet
2)put the board you're going to cut on top of it
3)clamp a straight board to your board along the cutline to make a fence- make sure that this board won't bend... I've had good success w/ 1x3 oak- I've also used part of an old metal bedframe
4)set the circular saw depth greater than the board to be cut, but not so deep that you go through both it and the foam (but you will cut through the foam).

This works great and while it's no substitute for a table saw, it works great. You can also ditch the foam and use 2x4's on either side of the cutline (and at the edges so it doesn't flip up at the end of the cut). My unkle builds furniture for a living and does this all the time.

Oh and I wouldn't worry about ripping anything just yet- mostly you're gonna work with MDF & plywood. Not a problem there.

VR3

Question number two about the design...

What is up with the Port? Why is it designed this way, and does it change the way the air flows in any way shape or form? I mean, I guess it might?

Anyways, here is a pic of the port...

It has a 4" Port, 7 5/8" long - very big port.

VR3

Here is an internal picture...(Forgot pic)

I am still not 100% sure what size foam pads are in there, I think they are 3/4" thick (?) I will have to measure more

I double checked... hmm 3/4" foam pads...I wonder if PE sells these

dkg999

I would keep you eye out at pawn shops and the want ads for a table saw. You can usually pick up a used Craftsman table saw for cheap, and most of their stuff is good, not great, but it will work and doesn't break very often. Look for a fence that locks tight and is adjustable to square to the blade. You can expand the table by building cabinets with tops the same level as the table. Just like in audio equipment, you can save a lot by looking for used tools.

VR3

Thanks, I will look more into it as the time comes around for this...

Right now, I am more so getting a project 'basis' down... I have *TON* of measurements to go through with this BP10B...

Terminal, Port, Tweeter, Midbass.

Not to mention I have to make a test front and back baffle, lots of stuff is going to take place I'm afraid - but this will be a much better enclosure I believe...

Check out these nice measurements!

And I still gotta double check some measurements! what fun!

-Tweeter Cutout –
3 1/8” Cutout Hole D
4” Overall For Tweeter Route
Tweeter Baffle Route –
Tweeter Route – 7/16” Width
Tweeter Route – 3/16” Deep
Tweeter Location –
From Route Around Tweeter From (RIGHT) Side – 1.25”
From Route Around Tweeter From (LEFT) – 2.75”
From Route Around Tweeter (Top) – From The Top – 9 3/16”
From Route Around Tweeter (Bottom) – 13 3/16

-Woofer Cutout –
5 7/8” Cutout Hole D
6.75” Overall For Woofer Route
6 7/8” Overall (Sloped Route)
Woofer Baffle Route –
Route Around Woofer Cutout – 3/8” Down, .7/16” Width
Route Around Woofer Cutout Route – ¼” Down, 1/16” over (sloped)
Woofer Location –
.9/16” From Sides (Sloped Baffle Route Edge)
1 5/8” From Top (Bottom Of Cut Out) (Sloped Baffle Route Edge)
8 5/8 From Top (Bottom Of Cutout) (Sloped Baffle Route Edge)

Cabinet Dimensions -
Height (Overall – MDF) – 41 1/2”
Height (Overall – W/ Oak Top) – 42”
Height (Internal) – 38 7/8”

Depth (Overall) – 12 ¼”
Depth (Internal) – 10 ¼”

Width (Overall) – 8”
Width (Internal) – 6.5”

Internal Brace Dimension –
Width – 6.5”
Height – 15.75”
Thickness - .5”

Distance Of Brace From Front Baffle – 5.5”
Distance Of Brace From Rear Baffle – 4.25”

Bottom Thickness -
1 7/8” (1.5” + 3/8”)

Port Dimensions –
4” D
7 5/8” Deep
Port Route Location –
3 7/16” From Bottom Of Enclosure
12 3/8” From Bottom Of Enclosure (top of port)
.5” From Sides
Route Depth - .5”
Port Location -
5 7/8 From Bottom (Bottom of Port)
9 7/8” From Bottom (Top Of Port)
6” From Sides (opposite sides, IE: Left Side Of Port, 6” From Right Side Of Cabinet)

Terminal Dimensions –
3” Wide, 4.75” Tall

Materials Needed –
3 Sonic Barrier Foam Pads (3/4” Thick)-

Mjr7531

Good stuff, right now my grandpa and I are trying to find the adjustable hole cutter for his milling machine, so I can finish out the speakers I'm building for a buddy.
I think my favorite part is cutting wood with a professional bandsaw
My great-grandpa used to own a machinery shop, and my grandpa got it all when it shut down. So if I were to ever need a diamond cutter...

Good luck with the project, this DIY stuff is addictive, ain't it?

VR3

Hehe, I'm finding it to be more interested to re-create a companies speaker, there is ALOT of stuff in it that I never would have figured...

I am guessing that mine are designed differently overall because of the socks, so in higher output passages, the woofer dosnt hit the sock (why is why the woofers are recessed farther back than just flush mounted) - atleast from what I can gather...

However that still leaves the port design and why they is recessed.

dorokusai

I have two SVS ports if you want them....however, they must be passed on in the same manner if you do not use them....get it.

VR3

Thats nice of you

And yes, thanks - I will take them if you want to give them to me, and I do know the 'rules' to passing on free stuff on this forum. I am not my Dad.

Thanks...

They are 4" ports correct?

VR3

Well, finally got some templates...

Chances of me going by these arnt to likely...

I was just making sure all the measurements came out right, etc... and getting a basis down, but this is how it will look...hmm

VR3

SUCCESS! After *ALOT* of trial and error on driver location, I finally got them 'found' ...incredibly annoyed I am!

But they are spot on, except for a slightly bad cut circle...correcto mondo!

VR3

I gots a question for you folks....................

I was reading this book Russ sent me (yep, I are reading it...slowly but surely) - and I came across a section on cabinet construction, I've read this before... but it also gave me an idea that I didnt think of before...

It mentioned if you are going to use hardwood to put a type of fiberboard behind it... so...well, I can do that!

SO...

What I was planning to do was get .5" oak, and then put .5" thick oak at the top, .5" wide, then the same down the sides (leave bottom open, not needed there)

Then basically I would slide the .5" thick MDF in this 'frame' and this would be my front and back baffles...

The sides are 3/4" thick, so .25" of the MDF would be on the sides, etc...

Any thoughts on this idea?

Thanks

And since my thread in the 2-channel forum is ignored, i will ask it here... Will mirror imaging my mains change their sound?