Adjustable Hole Saw For Drill Press

VR3

Now that I am undertaking projects that are requiring...perfection - I need one of these!

I check out HD's site and didnt see what I need...

My question is basically do they offer an adjustable hole saw that can cut from 1" to 8" (or 6")

Price isnt really a figure, I just flat out need one. Period. End.

Thanks!

dkg999

They do, but they won't give you the kind of clean cuts you are looking for, assuming you want to mount drivers in the front panel of your speaker projects.

Go to Parts Express and search on Jasper, and look at the Jasper Jigs. You mount one of these on your router and you can cut both the rabbets for recessing your drivers and the actual holes. Very cleanly, and precisely, and very quickly once you get the hang of it.

VR3

The model 400 looks like what I need...

But it says it only mounts to 16 types of plunge routers...whats the chance of me using one it mounts too?? LOL

Thanks for the tip...anything is cleaner than me actually cutting it with a jigsaw...lol

VR3

I believe my next few purchases will be....

A stationairy table saw...

a plunge router

Add that to my list of purchases to come...

jcaut

If you enjoy woodworking at all, a router would be a fun tool to have. If you're going to be doing much speaker-building, I would consider a router to be essential.

Regarding that Jasper jig: I've got one. Actually I've got two, as I bought the set with the model 200 and 400. The smaller one is the only one I've actually used. It makes holes big enough to flush-mount most drivers up to about 8 inches.

I think I've got a list of routers that it fits, if I've still got the paperwork. OTOH, It's fairly easy to make it fit most any router. I've got a Bosch 1617 that the jig didn't fit. I ended up drilling a couple of new holes in my router base plate, to match the jig. Now it fits!

I'd loan you mine, but by the time we ship it back and forth, you could just about buy your own.

Jason

VR3

I'll be using this thing for the next 2-3 years at the least, so I plan on buying one....

I am going to skip my center channel rebuild for the time being and concentrate on the towers...

I am going to stay after school after spring break and work on a test baffle (front, and a rear one) out of pine (two pieces of .5" thick pine glued together) for a guide...

I plan on getting a router, but there isnt a use of me owning a router without owning a table saw of a size that I can do anything with...

So, I plan on getting a table saw one day (seems I can get one with a 27" table for 200... and I can build an extention table for it...

I think I can do most speaker building with a table saw and a router, as long as I stick to MDF - if I use any solid wood, I'll have to haul the wood somewhere for cross-cutting...

I need a finish nailer man...but those things are EXPENSIVE... so if I build anything at home...I'll have to pull out the ol hammer!



Quick question - how do you use this to 'flush mount' the drivers? Can it do all of the routing I will have to do with these drivers?

Graham

Definitely get a plunge router Sid. It is a better investment at this point. You can get a good one for around 150 to 200. But dont go cheap on the bits.

You can probably also build your own circle jig if you want.

About those dipoles you asked me about, I haven't found much. There is some info on dipole surrounds in the Loudspeaker Cookbook but nothing on towers. If I come across something I'll let you know.

VR3

Here is what I am up against...

I figure I would locate the cutout holes..

From then I would do the .5" wide route as deep as the route goes (which is about .5" or so, I have the more exact measurement wrote down) - then do the sloped route after I route down around the hole... same thing for the tweeter...

Do I have this idea right?

Ah! Its Gatemplin! Nice name!

Thanks, Madmax has offered me one, I plan to take him up on it...

As for the towers, the towers I am building I am not designing, just rebuilding my current towers, same thickness in wood, same height, etc etc...

I will post a lil bit in a second on the particulars I found, maybe u will know a lil bit of the how come and why...

Graham

Originally posted by Vr3MxStyler2k3


Quick question - how do you use this to 'flush mount' the drivers? Can it do all of the routing I will have to do with these drivers?

You flush mount by measuring the outer diameter of the driver, then set up the circle jig. Measure the depth of the flange and set it on the stopper. Then you drill a hole in the baffle and go to town.

For non-circular drivers the process is a little more complicated. You need a collar on the router.

dkg999

For a router, you can find good deals on the Porter Cable 690 series right now. They have a plunge router which I believe is the #693. These routers were plentiful, so check the pawn shops. The Porter Cable 690 series are also pretty indestructible, and have plenty of power. Almost every jig, accessory available is made to fit the PC 690 series of routers.

As for table saws, keep an eye out for the Delta or Jet contractor saws. These sometimes go for $150 used, and are both good saws. I have a Hitachi 10" that I use for my on-site saw, and you can pick it up at Lowes or HD for $299. It's a good saw with a strong motor. I also just got a little Delta 10" benchtop saw for a true portable table saw, when I just need to rip a few boards on-site. It was on sale for $89 with a stand at Farm & Fleet, and it seems to be a pretty good little saw, and would probably get you by. You can't push it real hard, but with a good blade, it cuts pretty well for that price of table saw.

I just finished up a basement game room remodel today. Full HT with Dayton inwalls, a Dayton Titanic sub-kit, and a Samsung DLP on a remote controlled lift so it hides in a cabinet when not in use. They had a beautiful restored Seeburg Jukebox, and an equally nice early 1900's Brunswick billiards table. And yes, the part-time woodworking and carpentry keeps my in toys!

Graham

Originally posted by Vr3MxStyler2k3
Here is what I am up against...

I figure I would locate the cutout holes..

From then I would do the .5" wide route as deep as the route goes (which is about .5" or so, I have the more exact measurement wrote down) - then do the sloped route after I route down around the hole... same thing for the tweeter...

Do I have this idea right?

Ah! Its Gatemplin! Nice name!

Thanks, Madmax has offered me one, I plan to take him up on it...

As for the towers, the towers I am building I am not designing, just rebuilding my current towers, same thickness in wood, same height, etc etc...

I will post a lil bit in a second on the particulars I found, maybe u will know a lil bit of the how come and why...

That's me.

I think you have it right but you lost me on the sloped part.

Let me know if you have some questions about the towers.


DKG,

We gotta see some pics of the new theater.

VR3

Here is the table saw I was looking at - http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US/diy_main/pg_diy.jsp?CNTTYPE=PROD_META&CNTKEY=misc%2fsearchResults.jsp&BV_SessionID=@@@@1165197519.1113191959@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccegaddegefgelgcgelceffdfgidgjm.0&MID=9876

And I planned on picking up a router from Madmax

VR3

Here are my woofer measurements for the BP10B...

-Woofer Cutout –
5.75” Cutout Hole D
6.75” Overall For Woofer Route
7” Overall (Sloped Route)
Woofer Baffle Route –
Route Around Woofer Cutout – 3/8” Down, .5” Width
Route Around Woofer Cutout Route – ¼” Down, 1/8” over (sloped)


The "Slope" - is like a uphill slant, goes down 1/4" and over 1/8" - basically draw a line from 90 degrees (1/4" down) - then measure 1/8" over, then draw a line from the center and thats the slope, thats the only way I can identify with it...

Here is the question pertaining to the design of the towers...

Why would the front driver be farther from the internal center brace than the rear?

IE: The rear driver is 4.25" from the center brace, where as the front driver is 5.5" from it...

dkg999

OK, stay away from anything that says Ryobi on it!!!!!!!!!!

If you could swing it, the Makita for $301 is a workhorse of a saw. The Delta/Porter Cable or the Skil are both pretty good little saws. Also, I believe that Sears is having the Craftsman power tools now made by Emerson electric, which is who makes the Rigid brand. The Rigid's aren't bad, but you are stuck with Home Depot for service and parts.

Take it easy with the router when you get it. Lots of accidents with routers by people who haven't taken the time to learn how to use one properly.

VR3

We learned how to use a router properly in shop... me and it didnt get along to well... I will consult my shop teacher about the jig and the routers and how to use it, etc before I try my hand at it...

As for the saw, I will try to see what I can do, 300 is alot right now... maybe around christmas time...

And yes, we need to see pics of the theater...

Thanks for all of the advice thus far

Graham

I see the slope now, you can do that with a 45* chamfer bit.

The difference in distances probably doesn't have much to do with the drivers. The panels vibrate, by using a radial brace you divide the panel into smaller panels. By offsetting the brace, the panels will have different resonances, so they dont all sum at one specific frequency.

VR3

HMMM...

Another question...

If the brace is like 1/8" or so longer than what it is now, will it effect the sound to much, and if I add two small .5" thick braces down in the lower portion of the cabinet, will it effect anything to bad?

That is interesting about the brace, thanks for the info!

VR3

Here is what I am up against with the BP10B...

dkg999

I hope to get back there and get some pictures after the flooring contractor gets the floor down, and the painters have been there. I did the drywall, cabinetry, and wired the HT. The flooring is a new hardwood laminate that has like an eggshell rubberized bottom that circulates air so the concrete basement floor stays dry. I want to see how it looks. Hopefully the flooring contractor gave me the right clearance to leave or I'll be getting a call to get back over there a couple of nights this week. I also want to go back after they get the commercial popcorn machine installed!

Graham

The more bracing the better. Just account for it in the volume when designing the new enclosures. You can make them taller without consequence.

Just try to keep the rear of the drivers as clear as possible (from braces) to reduce reflections back onto the cones.

VR3

The BP10B has a vertical brace...

Kind of like this...

l l l -Front- -Brace- -Back-

This is the intitial design, the bracing I am talking about doing is basically is in the lower chamber of the enclosure, just 6.5" strips, that are .5" thick (two of them)

As for compensating for the used up volume, do I just find the volume (blah, I forgot the formula for volume) of the braces, then substract it from the current volume, then add that back on?

Graham

Originally posted by Vr3MxStyler2k3
The BP10B has a vertical brace...

Kind of like this...

l l l -Front- -Brace- -Back-

This is the intitial design, the bracing I am talking about doing is basically is in the lower chamber of the enclosure, just 6.5" strips, that are .5" thick (two of them)

As for compensating for the used up volume, do I just find the volume (LxWxH) of the braces, then substract it from the current volume, then add that back on?

It depends how much and what type of bracing you are doing. You are right though, just find the volume of the brace, minus the hole etc, then add that again to the internal volume.

VR3

Man...

According to my [bad] math...

a brace .5" thick

IE: .5" wide, .5" deep, 6.5" tall

The amount of cu ft it would take up isnt even really measureable...

Adding a brace that small can *really* effect the overall volume that much? I mean... I did the [bad] math, and I'm not even sure how to compensate for that.

Graham

No dont worry about it. That is only about 1.5 cubic inches.

Radial braces are more effective but obviously are harder to make and take up more room.

dorokusai

They say if you drill into your forehead, just enough to pierce your skull cap(Tapping), and membrane that you become self aware, and become omniscient....would a plunge router do the same job yet add a nice radius?

I ask this because I would like to insert a tube so I could vaccuum out all that bad memory.

Graham

Originally posted by dorokusai
They say if you drill into your forehead, just enough to pierce your skull cap(Tapping), and membrane that you become self aware, and become omniscient....would a plunge router do the same job yet add a nice radius?

I ask this because I would like to insert a tube so I could vaccuum out all that bad memory.

Ah yes, trepanation. I tried this with a drill press myself but a plunge router would work, a 3/4" roundover bit would make it look pretty fancy too. I may have gone too deep though.

I'll have to try that vacuum idea, thanks!

dorokusai

Thanks Graham, you made my day.

VR3

Thanks man...

I wont worry about it...

Some day or now...a new grill sock is arriving, when it does - I will get the rest of the measurements I need...and will then double check a few more measurements...

Thanks for all the help..

I might have a few more questions pertaining to the design too...

tryrrthg

Originally posted by dkg999
OK, stay away from anything that says Ryobi on it!!!!!!!!!!

Most all of the DIY crowd over at the HT forum says the Ryobi BT3100 is THE saw to buy for $300 and under. 31" rip capacity, sliding miter guage/table, it has a hole in the table so you can mount a router on it and you now have a router table. It has kind of a cult following.

http://www.bt3central.com/

VR3

Is that saw sold at HD or Lowes?

I'm not sure when I will be able to stretch for tools, may have to wait for christmas and ask everyone for one big present! hehe

Hmm, I was figuring since the chances of me getting more into building speakers...I might as well come up with something to put on the back of the enclosures I make/sell.. Note, that I said - BACK -, I cant afford to make faceplate...

But basically it would be printed off, then have plexy glass cut for it, pre-drilled holes, then screwed into the back of the enclosure... wouldnt cost much at all...

(I used Early B's enclosures as an example)

dkg999

If you think the Ryobi table saw will work, go for it. As with any product, there are probably a lot of very satisfied users. I know from experience that when a Ryobi tool breaks, it has been very hard to get parts or service. Now, keep in mind that I have a bias in how I evaluate tools. My use of them is in a part-time business and I buy tools that I feel will work every time I pull them out of the trailer, as I don't have time to be fixing them. I'm a lot more critical than the average DIY'er.