SDA SRS 1.2TL Side Panel Removal
DarqueKnight
Posts: 6,765
The method of attachment for the SDA SRS 1.2TL side panels has been somewhat of a mystery. One owner said that it took him a whole week to figure it out, but he would not tell us how to do it unless we sent him a special request. Some owners, for fear of breaking something, will not venture an investigation.
While it is commonly thought that the SRS side panels are glued on (like the smaller SDA 1C and SDA 2B), they are actually held in place by trelocks similar to the ones that hold the grille panels in place. The side panel trelocks are different in that they are ribbed and fit much tighter. I used a 1-1/2 inch metal putty spatula to gently pry off the side panel.
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Figure 1. Side view of SDA SRS 1.2TL.
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Figure 2. SDA SRS 1.2TL with side panel off.
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Figure 3. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel trelocks.
The SDA SRS 1.2TL side panels are held in place with eight ribbed trelocks.
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Figure 4. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel front.
The wood strip is oak veneer over MDF. The side panel frame is a composite wood material like the grille frame. The side panel fabric is stretched over the frame and then the wood strip is laid over the fabric and set into a notch in the frame. The wood strip is secured with nails from the back side.
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Figure 5. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel rear.
I do not know the reason for the rectangular cutouts in the side panel frame. This makes the side panel fabric more vulnerable to damage. Perhaps there is some sonic benefit. Perhaps it was a weight saving measure. The panels weigh 11.5 pounds each.
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Figure 6. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel rear.
The wood strip insert on the front is held in place by tiny finishing nails (arrows). There are countersunk screw holes near the nails, but they are not used. Cost saving perhaps? Maybe Polk originally used screws but switched to nails. If you ever have to or want to replace the side panel fabric, it will be a lot of fun prying off those nailed up wood strips!
While it is commonly thought that the SRS side panels are glued on (like the smaller SDA 1C and SDA 2B), they are actually held in place by trelocks similar to the ones that hold the grille panels in place. The side panel trelocks are different in that they are ribbed and fit much tighter. I used a 1-1/2 inch metal putty spatula to gently pry off the side panel.
Enlarge
Figure 1. Side view of SDA SRS 1.2TL.
Enlarge
Figure 2. SDA SRS 1.2TL with side panel off.
Enlarge
Figure 3. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel trelocks.
The SDA SRS 1.2TL side panels are held in place with eight ribbed trelocks.
Enlarge
Figure 4. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel front.
The wood strip is oak veneer over MDF. The side panel frame is a composite wood material like the grille frame. The side panel fabric is stretched over the frame and then the wood strip is laid over the fabric and set into a notch in the frame. The wood strip is secured with nails from the back side.
Enlarge
Figure 5. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel rear.
I do not know the reason for the rectangular cutouts in the side panel frame. This makes the side panel fabric more vulnerable to damage. Perhaps there is some sonic benefit. Perhaps it was a weight saving measure. The panels weigh 11.5 pounds each.
Enlarge
Figure 6. SDA SRS 1.2TL side panel rear.
The wood strip insert on the front is held in place by tiny finishing nails (arrows). There are countersunk screw holes near the nails, but they are not used. Cost saving perhaps? Maybe Polk originally used screws but switched to nails. If you ever have to or want to replace the side panel fabric, it will be a lot of fun prying off those nailed up wood strips!
Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
Post edited by DarqueKnight on
Comments
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Excellent post!
The details explained.
Why did you do this?
Are you going to replace the side fabric?
Those cuts outs on the side panel are funny. Saving weight? I don't think so.
Peter -
Thanks Raife - you're the best!
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Very interesting. Raife, do you know how the 2.3TL side panels are attached?Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Originally posted by bikezappa
Why did you do this? Are you going to replace the side fabric?
A forum member recently asked me about the removal procedure for the 1.2TL side panels.
I considered replacing the side fabric when I was modifying my 1.2TL's. I decided against it because it really was not necessary. Another factor was that I did not want to risk damaging the nailed on wood strips during removal.
No. See if the side panel will separate from the cabinet a little bit by using finger pressure alone. If it does, it is probably attached with trelocks. I would be surprised if the 2.3TL attachment system is different from the 1.2TL, but then again, considering all the SDA variations, I wouldn't be too surprised if it was different.Originally posted by F1nit
....do you know how the 2.3TL side panels are attached?Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
Raife, you are a BRAVE man! Great photos - Thanks!
RobbieMain System: Polk SDA SRS 1.2 Speakers, Sunfire Signature 600~two Amp, Carver C-16 Preamp, Carver TX-11b Tuner, Marantz 6350Q TT, Philips CDR-775 Recorder, Teac V-707RX Cassette Deck, Signal Cable Double Run Speaker Cable
Upstairs Den: Marantz 2325 Receiver, Marantz 5220 Cassette Deck, Marantz HD-880 Speakers, Marantz 6370Q TT
Exercise (Kabuki speaker) Room: Kenwood KR-9600 Receiver, Pioneer CS-99a Speakers, Sansui SP-X9000 Speakers (not pretty, but LOUD! ) -
As always, excellant technical insight into the "holy grail" of speakers.
-Luc -
Great post.
The SDA1C panel removal and/ or replacement is not for the faint of heart. It's a little tricky but not "difficult".
You would be suprised to find out that the side panels on the lesser models is basically cardboard....though there may be a fancy name for it.
I have "repaired" all of the panels on my 1C's due to the "bowing" of the ends which is common.
The process for replacing the SDA1C panels would be:
Remove the side panel with a METAL putty knife, by prying along the side slowly, and downwards. Working from top to bottom. Most of the Polk glue was used in the middle, so have a putty knife with some length.
You will eventually have a loose panel, with residual glue on both the panel and the speaker. This should be removed from both.
It's OLD glue so don't be afraid to be rough. I found it a little difficult to remove until I had enough beer in me. It will be covered again so don't worry about small scratches in the speakers' side veneer.
Once you have removed the old glue, clean the surface with a damp cloth, and let dry. There really is no need to prep the surface as the removal of the old glue will mar the surface quite sufficiently.
If you are replacing the cloth on the sides, that's up to you, but at least check for loose spots, and re-attach with hot glue, and your finger. You need to smooth it out. Don't let the glue bead, as it will affect re-attachment of the panel.
I used "Liquid Nails for Paneling" for re-attachment. Use common sense, don't overdo it with the glue as you will find it impossible to remove any adhesive from the cloth if you mess up.
Attach one at a time, and rest a GENEROUS amount of weight on both ends, each side and the center, overnight until it has cured. This is a two day process....get me?
This is what I did to mine, sorry no pictures, but I'm sure it's enough for you intellectual types.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Originally posted by DarqueKnight
A forum member recently asked me about the removal procedure for the 1.2TL side panels.
I considered replacing the side fabric when I was modifying my 1.2TL's. I decided against it because it really was not necessary. Another factor was that I did not want to risk damaging the nailed on wood strips during removal.
Emboldened by the knowledge you've shared, I popped the side panels off my SDA SRS's this evening. When I replace the grille cloth (I'm ordering the Ponte you used as well), I'm now going to replace all the fabric. I took my Dremel to a couple of the nail heads and ground them right off in less than 5 minutes, so I don't think it will be too hard to remove the strips. I'll use the headless nails as guides and reattach the strips with countersunk screws.
Of course, one thing leads to another. I may as well refinish the walnut strips and end caps while I have the cabinets stripped. I've already replaced the tweeters and, again thanks to what you've shared here previously, have the new crossover caps (Solen PB's), resistors (Mills MR-12's) and Vampire binding posts headed this way from Parts Connexion. In a couple of weeks, I'll have a better than new pair of SDA SRS's for a total expenditure of slightly less than $1700. Thanks again to you, and everyone here, for sharing their knowledge.
Mike -
Originally posted by F1nut
Very interesting. Raife, do you know how the 2.3TL side panels are attached?
A buddy here at work got a pair of 2.3tl from me, he is in the middle of redoing the cloth, we removed the side panel, I was expecting the same as the pictures Raife posted, but I was wrong. The side panels of glued on just like the 1Cs and 2Bs.Dodd - Battery Preamp
Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
Outlaw ICBM - crossover
Beringher BFD - sub eq
Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!
"I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..." -
Also, "solid hardwood tops", nopeDodd - Battery Preamp
Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
Outlaw ICBM - crossover
Beringher BFD - sub eq
Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!
"I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..." -
oops here it isDodd - Battery Preamp
Monarchy Audio SE100 Delux - mono power amps
Sony DVP-NS999ES - SACD player
ADS 1230 - Polk SDA 2B
DIY Stereo Subwoofer towers w/(4) 12 drivers each
Crown K1 - Subwoofer amp
Outlaw ICBM - crossover
Beringher BFD - sub eq
Where is the remote? Where is the $%#$% remote!
"I've always been mad, I know I've been mad, like the most of us have...very hard to explain why you're mad, even if you're not mad..." -
I also had to glue the side panels back on my SDA-1C's. It's a design flaw in my opinion, the glue would stick forever if they had not put the vinyl veneer on the sides underneath, and just glued wood to wood.
I used liquid nails to reglue, but even that says it is NOT for use on vinyl. Wonder how long it will last? I thought about peeling a section of the vinyl off underneath for a better bond, but laziness won out, and I skipped it. -
Thanks for the pic and info. It's as I quessed, glued on.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
The original SDA SRS had solid oak (or walnut) end caps made of laminated boards that were prone to cracking along the lamination seams. The bottom end caps were particularly prone to cracking.Originally posted by hoosier21
Also, "solid hardwood tops", nope
The picture below shows the inside edge of my left SRS speaker. You can see the differences in edge grain patterns along the side. These caps were made of five narrow laminated boards. The arrow points to a crack that was filled in with wood filler. The crack only went about two inches inward across the top of the cap.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
After all the problems with cracking top and bottom caps of the SDA SRS, Polk started making end caps out of a solid MDF panel that was veneered on both sides and edge banded.
The picture below is of the inside edge of my left SDA SRS 1.2TL speaker. Notice the long continuous grain pattern along the side and front.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country! -
The top and bottom end caps are easily removed after accessing the retaining nuts by removing the top two drivers and passive radiator.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
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The picture below shows the underside of a SDA SRS 1.2TL top cap and the retaining nuts and washers.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
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Thanks for sharing it with us. Its always cool to see how brand name speakers are made.
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I'm thinking about having some glossy black lacquer end caps and side panels made. The end result would look similar to this:Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
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Not yet.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
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Not yet. It's on my ever increasing "to do" list.Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
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Oh man redoing the side panels to glossy black laquer SWWWEETT!! That is going to be THE MOD for ME yes..... The picture of those Mirages OH yea make the 1.2 tls to look very simular. I think they need to be in the tasteful babes thread !
One small problem I really need to be home to do it .....
Think about it the tops sides and bottoms are all now glossy black !!!
Beautiful !!!:cool: " He who dies with the most equipment wins Right ? "
Denon 3300 Adcom 535 BBe w/sub out 1 pr 4.6s 2 pr of 4 jrs Recent additions Samsung Lns-4095D LCD, Samsung hd-960 DVD, Monster HT-5000 Power center,HPSA-1000 18" sealed DiY home sub.:D
Black Laquer 1.2tl's w/ upgraded x-overs and Tweets BI-Amped with 2 Carver tfm-35's Knukonceptz 10ga cables -
The originals are veneer over MDF. If you plan on having new pieces made I would suggest going the veneer over MDF route as it's considerably more stable.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
What's wrong with the color of the walnut veneer, that's what walnut is suppose to look like. Walnut is a man's wood, be proud of it.
Glue what, the cloth to the panels or the the panels to the case? Either way, don't use Gorilla glue, awful stuff.
Sanding is for amateurs, don't do it.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
AGH!!!
Walnut is not a blond wood to start with, more of a light chocolate brown that if left to age on it's owns turns a very nice, rich and warm nutty brown and sometimes gains a reddish tone. In fact, with age it can be difficult to tell the difference between walnut and mahogany.
Anyway, since you're hell bent on changing the color, use paint stripper to remove the exsisting finish and as a side effect, remove the stain (color) too. Sanding should be avoided at all cost, especially when dealing with veneer. Sanding will not remove the nick or scratch without cutting thru to the MDF. You want to fill those areas after stripping, lightly sand flush and then apply the top coat. If you use a wiping finish the results will look much better than brushing. You can thin an oil varnish 50/50 with paint thinner to make it a wiping finish, but you'll have to apply at least 3 coats to gain any build. After it cures for a few weeks, rub it out with 0000 steel wool in the direction of the grain, then lightly buff with a soft cotton cloth.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
don't seal that cat up in the speakers.
JC approves....he told me so. (F-1 nut) -
The cats are just waiting for you to put the grilles back on. I'm sure they are thrilled about the large scratching posts you bought them (with secret compartments).Proud and loyal citizen of the Digital Domain and Solid State Country!
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ouch ouch ouchengtaz
I love how music can brighten up a bad day. -
Wow. That's nice stuff. Where did you end up buying the wood from?
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Sal, that'll look nice.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk
