Lowering a porch ceiling for T&G

disneyjoe7

Originally posted by amulford
No, you don't have to vent thru the T&G, but vent out the space behind it. You should already have venting in the soffits of the house. RU taking down the drywall? If no then you should make sure you have good ventilation in that dead space. If yes, be sure you have ventilation in the soffits.

Amulford, I think what Scott was saying is that moisture can build up on the ceiling causing mold. I have seen this at my old house when I added this T & G to that ceiling. I don't really understand this as a drywall ceiling isn't vented now.

Originally posted by amulford
Even though your attaching to the trusses, it's the trusses that need the "h" straps, not the ceiling. If the trusses are anchored, you should be fine. You could use them in the middle of the long span for rigidity, but you don't need them for hurricane code.]

So what do you think one should use to attach 2X4's to the trusses? Screws or Nails?

Originally posted by amulford
I don't think you'll need to insulate it, either, unless you plan on heating it. If it's going to remain a porch, make sure the living space is insulated. if you seal up the house to much, you don't get the proper ventilation, and the house will "sweat". Mold and stuff, rot, bad smells, kinda like sweaty drawers...;) [/B]

No this is open even the screen you see is to be removed. This insulation idea comes from the fact that the "Attic" is like 130f and this heat makes it pass the ceiling heating this space up.

scottnbnj

i just have a couple of minutes now. i just skimmed and will answer what i remember seeing and check more carefully tonight for anthing i missed. sorry i left you uh,.. hanging.

i think twists like option b would be fine. there are hundreds of types of hangers and straps and many would work. it looks like we're on the same page and you'll just have to see what's available and use your judgement.

if they're a little long it wouldn't hurt either. you can bend (beat) them down with your hammer and actually make a stronger connection. just,.. bending them over the bottom would interfere with your t&g laying flat.

af could be right and his framing suggestion is as good as any of mine. i mean, as i said, there are many ways to do this. i prefer going perpendicular to the trusses or joists because you can adjust the spacing to account for whatever soffit material you use and the spans between connection points of the 2x4's need be no longer than the space between the trusses. he's right on talking to inspectors too, they'll be there for the pool anyway. just remember, they don't own your house, you are paying their wages and you can talk to their boss, but, better to not let them see construction in progress that you haven't pulled permits for.

i think the way blow offs work is your roof is shaped like a wing, the air moving over the top speeds up and creates low pressure (lift). air forced between homes is channeled into a small space, speeds up and creates high pressure. the porch creates a pocket of high pressure depending on the direction of the wind. i think, when windows break and the air rushes in, it's like the wind going between the houses, creating high pressure, and that's usually when the roof goes off.

anyways, for the vents in the soffit (the porch ceiling), i don't know how they will play into a blow off scenario. mostly i responded to the mold. i didn't know whether you were talking about the house you're working on now or the old one. if it's the house you're working on now,.. well, you get the idea. one thing i saw that i thought would contribute to mold is the headers over the windows, to me they look like they create a natural trap for humidity to get caught up there, but, a lot of other things play into it too, it like prevailing wind direction, when the sun gets in there and drainage around the house. if you had no mold before the hurricanes, i wouldn't worry unless you start seeing it. if you get it, then it's easy enough to cut something in later.

doh! i said i was going to keep this short.

)

disneyjoe7

I killed the idea for straps. I will add the 2X8" next to the trusses 2X4", this will lower the ceiling 3.5". I will add 1X3" boards perpendicular to ceiling trusses. The slit cut for venting the ceiling will not be done, cutting this could wrap the ceiling boards in the future. I like the 2X8" better because I believe this stronger then option "A" or "B". For the insulation idea I'm still on the fence, but I 60% / 40% for this.


I post new pictures in the future when I get this done. Wish me luck. :cool:

scottnbnj

nicely done. may the force be with you.

for the insulation, there's something called "radiant barrier" too. it's designed to do, well, what you're trying to do. might be worth checking how it stacks up against insulation. there should be a million hits on google.

)

disneyjoe7

Originally posted by scottnbnj
for the insulation, there's something called "radiant barrier"

You know I don't have any insulation over this area of ceiling now.

I did a little search, it looks like something you add over existing insulation.

scottnbnj

i think what you read (use w/ fiberglass) mostly reflects that virtually all homes that might benefit from a radiant barrier already have fiberglass insulation around the living space (so you can't do a study of radiant barriers without including that info), not that radiant barriers need fiberglass to do what they are intended to do. in combination they compliment each other because the strength of each is the weakness of the other.

i don't follow radiant barriers very closely being a northruner, but, like everything else in construction, i know that there are various types and methods of installation to suit a variety of applications and that there is a never ending parade of new products.

they all will perform at their best when installed properly under dark colored roof shingles when the sun is most directly and strongly hitting it (i think this is your situation) and will barely perform when it's dark or raining. fiberglass peak performance is the opposite, though the swing is not at as dramatic. that's why if you can have only one for all conditions in living space, it's fiberglass. it's been the standard for so long for that reason.

since cost was a factor in the insulation decision, and, from your pics, i guessed that your porch and how you use it might be exactly what and when radiant barriers perform best and might give you a more affordable option that might send you a few degrees in the right direction.

)

scottnbnj

Originally posted by scottnbnj
when installed properly under dark colored roof shingles

sorry, this thread might be done, but, this is worded so poorly that it's misleading. it should read something closer to:

"they all will perform at their best when installed properly [inside an attic] under [a roof with] dark colored roof shingles when the sun is most directly and strongly hitting it (i think this is your situation) and will barely perform when it's dark or raining."

)

disneyjoe7

Thanks Scott,

I will be using fiberglass insulation over this radiant barrier style. Above my porch ceiling is open I will see the roof plywood and into attic clean so any and all heat will be right there. So fiberglass will work better more direct where the radiant barrier I don't think would work has well.

reeltrouble1

Steve,

Maybe I am missing something, but it looks to us (construction son) like you can just nail right on top of the drywall into the joists. Just snap a line on the joists, if you have some bad drywall remove it and replace with drywall as your furring strip.

RT1

disneyjoe7

Ted,

You missed something, look back at the first picture showing the porch ceiling new look as if you where looking down pass roof. The section that shows 16 boards 1x6 is a raised area of ceiling, this will be done by lowering the other sections 3.5". Also due to black mold issue I wish to remove all of the drywall. The porch ceiling pictures are just a quick fix up due to this mold problem, done because of the new pool going in. The house was reappraised so the pool is part of my 1st mortgage, all in all a pretty sweet deal for me has this is under 80% of value.

reeltrouble1

Ok, I am headed to FL when its done!!!!

With a very big bottle of Rum!!!

Random Thoughts anyone!!!

disneyjoe7

Originally posted by reeltrouble1
Ok, I am headed to FL when its done!!!!

With a very big bottle of Rum!!!

Random Thoughts anyone!!!

Ok, it sould be done by the April 1st...

Big Bottle of Rum NICE

scottnbnj

i just realized that the 2x8's sistered to the trusses and dropped 3 1/2" inches was what you were originally talking about in your first post. so sorry,.. i didn't realize a beefy option like that was on the table. you're right in a big way, that's the best option mentioned in the thread, especially when adding the spacing flexibility of the 1x material. you made the best choice with the fiberglass too, and it looks like you're not taking a lesser way out with the t&g material either.

you're adding value to your home, doing it the right way,.. and you're gonna sit out there and drink rum to boot. not too late to run wire for speaks up there too.

)

disneyjoe7

Originally posted by scottnbnj
not too late to run wire for speaks up there too.

)

Atruim 55 still in the box (waiting for the new porch thing)

2 ceiling fans (the same one's shown in the pictures)

12 recessed lights (the mini ones)

1 TV

scottnbnj

,.. woo, and a tv. nice.

)

disneyjoe7

Originally posted by scottnbnj
,.. woo, and a tv. nice.

)

TV yes, did I mention a Payphone? Rewired so it's loop start not ground start (sorry Telco terms) It rewired so it can be used at home / the coin box is missing, but the front cover is there. If a coin is placed it just goes to the coin box area, nice I have the key.