Blown tweeter?
outlander
Posts: 218
I think the tweeter on one of my Monitor 10s may be blown. It sounds scratchy / broken up. The tweeter is a SL2000. Does anyone know a good way to check a tweeter to make sure it working OK, maybe like a resistance measurement or something? Also I know this has been answered before but if I need new tweeters I want to make sure I order the right ones, so here it goes again. What is the replacement tweeter for the SL2000?
Thanks!
O
Thanks!
O
Post edited by outlander on
Comments
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The SL2000/SL1000 replacement is RD0194-1
What Monitor 10's do you have? There were three tweeters used in the 10 series(SL1000 - MON 10&10A and 10B(84 &85), SL2000 - MON 10B, and SL2500 - MON 10 Series II.)
The SL2500 replacement is, I believe, RD0198-1. -
Hi Bluemdpicker,
I have the 10B's, with the SL2000 tweeters. It's funny, I just measured the resistance of the tweeters from both speakers and they both measure ~6.3 Ohms. But when I listen to them, one is clearly messed up.
O -
Do your MON 10's have an external fuse? I'd take a look at replacing them if so. If not, and the tweeter is good, you could have a polyswitch going bad on the crossover board. Did you swap channels with the speaker cables to see if the blown sound stays in the same speaker?
Mike -
No external fuse. I swapped the speakers and the more I listen to them I find that the distortion is coming from the tweeters of both speakers. I wonder if the 6.3 Ohms of resistance (out of circuit) is within spec. What is the polyswitch you were referring to?
O -
The polyswitch (or thermistor) is on the crossover board to protect the tweeters - took the place of external fuses. It's a simple fix, but I'm inclined to believe they're okay if you're not experiencing complete tweeter cutout. Still it's a possibility, but unlikely that both polyswitches would throw craps at the same time.
What amp/receiver are you running? Have you tried other speakers (if available to you) on your amp or receiver to eliminate that as a potential problem? Is your amp/receiver running very hot to the touch? Is your amp clipping (distorting) at high volume leading you to suspect the speakers are at fault? Have you double checked that your connectons are in phase for both channels (+ to + and - to -)?
I know that's a bunch of questions, but it should lead you to a resolution. -
Im driving them with a 100W Yamaha receiver (HTR-5250) and all the connections are good. I can hear it at moderate levels so its not a clipping issue. I swapped out the Polks with a pair of Celestion DL12s and they seem to sound fine. I dont know if the problem with these speakers just started because I just picked them up last week from ebay. Ill need to pick up the experiments again tomorrow night because the kids are telling me they need to get up for school tomorrow.
Thanks again!
O -
Originally posted by outlander
I dont know if the problem with these speakers just started because I just picked them up last week from ebay.
Bingo! You need new tweeters.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Originally posted by BlueMDPicker
The SL2000/SL1000 replacement is RD0194-1
What Monitor 10's do you have? There were three tweeters used in the 10 series(SL1000 - MON 10&10A and 10B(84 &85), SL2000 - MON 10B, and SL2500 - MON 10 Series II.)
The SL2500 replacement is, I believe, RD0198-1.
You forget the Peerless. Even my 10A's have Peerless, not SL1000. It is not, and never has been an SL anything. I don't know exactly where the confusion is coming from.
I assure you, in the pot smoking days...you got what was on the shelf that day. The early Monitors are a loose bunch at best. I've seen more than a handful of M's that were not spec'd correctly, and it was a factory, original owner speaker.
It even bleeds into the RTA line, as I actually own two perfect examples of the 12C....both stock, both original owners, both different tweeters.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Originally posted by dorokusai
You forget the Peerless. Even my 10A's have Peerless, not SL1000. It is not, and never has been an SL anything. I don't know exactly where the confusion is coming from.
Right here -
Is the RD0198-1 suppose to be a better tweeter than the SL2000?
O -
Originally posted by outlander
Is the RD0198-1 suppose to be a better tweeter than the SL2000?
O
That's the concensus opinion here, yes. -
Originally posted by BlueMDPicker
Right here
Ah, thank you sir.CTC BBQ Amplifier, Sonic Frontiers Line3 Pre-Amplifier and Wadia 581 SACD player. Speakers? Always changing but for now, Mission Argonauts I picked up for $50 bucks, mint. -
Originally posted by outlander
Is the RD0198-1 suppose to be a better tweeter than the SL2000?
O
The RD0198-1 is the replacement for the SL3000, you want the RD0194-1.Political Correctness'.........defined
"A doctrine fostered by a delusional, illogical minority and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a t-u-r-d by the clean end."
President of Club Polk -
Opps, I meant is the RD0194-1 suppose to be a better tweeter than the original SL2000?
O -
Originally posted by outlander
Opps, I meant is the RD0194-1 suppose to be a better tweeter than the original SL2000?
O
Yeah, that's what I meant as well.
