Eico 667 Tube & Transistor Tester
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SCompRacer
Posts: 9,370
Some say the EICO 667 is a decent, mid-tier dynamic conductance tube and transistor tester that works well for basic good-or-bad screening. Got this from Carl, been sitting for months waiting for me to look inside it. Panel is in nice condition. No tubes inside this tester...as doc hardy might say, it's a soiled state tube tester. 
The cabinet isn't too shabby but could use a repaint.
Some of the 1 through 12 and C buttons were sticking and would not reset. The switch actuators are all aluminum passing through an aluminum bar along with the reset bar, so no rust to deal with and no debris on them. I found if I pushed the U channel bar actuators pass through down (arrow points to it), they all reset properly. So I gave that bar a little over bend downward and that fixed it.
The front panel is very thin and flexes easily from weight of transformer when removed from cabinet.
Some slide and rotary switches to clean so I removed the tube data roll chart assembly.
I taped over the plastic tube chart windows. I rolled some paper towel strips around a screwdriver and taped the ends. They help absorb the DeOxit runoff. I use canned air to blow excess cleaner out.
Hard to see but I inserted the rolled up paper towel under the slide switches. I don't like to spray DeOxit in some situations as it can make a mess to clean up. I spray some in a small container and use an eye dropper to apply it. The open slide switches actuated by the front panel buttons are above the shiny bar at bottom of pic.
I used an in circuit capacitor tester on the caps and found nothing no go, so I powered it up. Press line button and turn the line adjust voltage knob until the needle is on the line.
I straighten tube pins if needed before testing.
Testing an Amperex 12AU7. I've read at Antique Radio forum the chart has errors. They also mentioned a mod to monitor the plate current while the merit test is being performed using an external ammeter. It requires breaking into a circuit and installing two banana jacks. If not using amp meter you have to insert a jumper to use tester. I'll have to research that further. If I do perform that mod, I'll use tip jacks that would accept standard multimeter probes.
I found later tube charts, schematics and manuals to look through.
The cabinet isn't too shabby but could use a repaint.
Some of the 1 through 12 and C buttons were sticking and would not reset. The switch actuators are all aluminum passing through an aluminum bar along with the reset bar, so no rust to deal with and no debris on them. I found if I pushed the U channel bar actuators pass through down (arrow points to it), they all reset properly. So I gave that bar a little over bend downward and that fixed it.
The front panel is very thin and flexes easily from weight of transformer when removed from cabinet.
Some slide and rotary switches to clean so I removed the tube data roll chart assembly.
I taped over the plastic tube chart windows. I rolled some paper towel strips around a screwdriver and taped the ends. They help absorb the DeOxit runoff. I use canned air to blow excess cleaner out.
Hard to see but I inserted the rolled up paper towel under the slide switches. I don't like to spray DeOxit in some situations as it can make a mess to clean up. I spray some in a small container and use an eye dropper to apply it. The open slide switches actuated by the front panel buttons are above the shiny bar at bottom of pic.
I used an in circuit capacitor tester on the caps and found nothing no go, so I powered it up. Press line button and turn the line adjust voltage knob until the needle is on the line.
I straighten tube pins if needed before testing.
Testing an Amperex 12AU7. I've read at Antique Radio forum the chart has errors. They also mentioned a mod to monitor the plate current while the merit test is being performed using an external ammeter. It requires breaking into a circuit and installing two banana jacks. If not using amp meter you have to insert a jumper to use tester. I'll have to research that further. If I do perform that mod, I'll use tip jacks that would accept standard multimeter probes.
I found later tube charts, schematics and manuals to look through.
Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
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Thanks, but I'll pass. I read if it has ****, tubes or tires, you're eventually gonna have trouble with it. Salk SoundScape 8's * Audio Research Reference 3 * Bottlehead Eros Phono * Park's Audio Budgie SUT * Krell KSA-250 * Harmonic Technology Pro 9+ * Signature Series Sonore Music Server w/Deux PS * Roon * Gustard R26 DAC / Singxer SU-6 DDC * Heavy Plinth Lenco L75 Idler Drive * AA MG-1 Linear Air Bearing Arm * AT33PTG/II & Denon 103R * Richard Gray 600S * NHT B-12d subs * GIK Acoustic Treatments * Sennheiser HD650 *
