DSW microPRO 3000 amp busted

mpitogo
mpitogo Posts: 520
edited February 1 in Troubleshooting
Hey so I have two DSW microPRO 3000 and my other one gave out. A few years ago, I had one repaired by Edwards Electronics, they no longer service Polk sub amps (I'm assuming because the subs are too inexpensive and the older subs worth repair are now ancient). Anyway, I'm attempting to repair it myself and it looks like a power supply issue. The NTC Thermistor SCK 048 is busted in the TH1 spot. pmax0a7p5fn8.jpeg
187byxg5luqh.jpeg
o51c40pceyfc.jpeg. You'll have to zoom in to find it.

This got me thinking. How often do we experience amp separates failures? I've never come across one that has died too young. Of the current power amps I own, they all still work great. I do have a vintage integrated I repaired due to age, it was a 1975 Sansui AU-6900. The amp has a publicly available schematic and knowledgable repair techs who has done repairs before I did mine.

Choices

1) So get that Thermistor and repair it? No guarantee that's the only part that needs to be replaced. Would be nice if a schematic was available. I believe this is the part spec sheet. https://thinking.com.tw/upload/product/files/NTC%20Thermistor-SCK%20Series.pdfhttps://datasheet4u.com/pdf-down/S/C/K/SCK-1R38_THINKING.pdf

https://reddit.com/r/AskElectronics/comments/k3m8s3/fixing_a_subwoofer_thermistor_alternatives_vs/

2) cover the plate amp hole and get an outboard amp

3) give up on it

My repaired DSW is still running today as a sub for a living room TV with a KEF LSX II LT.
  • Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
  • Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
  • Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
  • Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
  • Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
  • Daughter's Gaming Rig-2.0 Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | Martin Logan Forte
  • Orphans DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
  • Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
  • Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
  • Guest Room 4-2.0 QAcoustics 3030i | Sansui AU-6900 | Sansui FR-1080 | Fire TV
  • Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine

Comments

  • mpitogo
    mpitogo Posts: 520
    Looking at the Spec sheet this is the closest part, not the exact replacement.

    https://digikey.com/en/products/detail/bourns-inc/BN-LG20Y4R0MYB/19241411

    BN-LG20Y4R0Mx

    https://bourns.com/docs/Product-Datasheets/BN-LG20Y.pdf

    Get a handful as spares and replace both in the PSU I have taken apart.
    • Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
    • Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
    • Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
    • Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
    • Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
    • Daughter's Gaming Rig-2.0 Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | Martin Logan Forte
    • Orphans DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
    • Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
    • Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
    • Guest Room 4-2.0 QAcoustics 3030i | Sansui AU-6900 | Sansui FR-1080 | Fire TV
    • Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 4,284
    I'll check with a friend at Polk about schematics for that particular amp. I have some general DSW schematics, but not sure how they relate to your model.
  • mpitogo
    mpitogo Posts: 520
    Thank @SeleniumFalcon

    I decided to try 1) I ordered a few of the NTC Thermistors and will replace both and go from there. I also have plenty of fuses and will test on a dim bulb tester.
    • Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
    • Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
    • Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
    • Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
    • Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
    • Daughter's Gaming Rig-2.0 Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | Martin Logan Forte
    • Orphans DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
    • Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
    • Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
    • Guest Room 4-2.0 QAcoustics 3030i | Sansui AU-6900 | Sansui FR-1080 | Fire TV
    • Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • SeleniumFalcon
    SeleniumFalcon Posts: 4,284
    edited February 2
    I heard back from Tony and, unfortunately, he doesn't have any information on that model. I'm sorry.
    One thing to consider is to disconnect the power supply from the rest of the circuitry and see how it behaves after you've replaced the thermistors. Then try and measure the loads the power supply connects to and look for any shorts before reconnecting the supply.
  • mpitogo
    mpitogo Posts: 520
    edited February 7
    Thermistors replaced. I tried it without the AMP section. still no go. The new ones are slightly bigger.

    Anyway, I inspected the entire power supply board and nothing seemed obviously blown or burnt out. I'd have to go test component by component but I'd rather not. Maybe the best thing for this is just to rip it all out and reinstall the plate with a sheet of no-rez and use an outboard amplifier.

    z4mw1gangeyp.jpeg
    • Living Room Music-2.1 Polk Legend L800 | SVS SB1000Pro | McIntosh C70 | McIntosh MA5200 (Treble) | McIntosh MC452 (Bass) | Sublimeacoustic K231 Active xover | Denon DP-2500A | Denafrips Ares II | Marantz HD-CD1 | Belkin Soundform Connect | iPad Pro USB to DAC
    • Home Theater-9.7.6/15.1 (Atmos/Auro-3D) Polk LSiM707, LSiM706c, LSiM702 F/X [x6], Height LSiM703 [x6], HSU ULS-15Mk2x4, VTF-15HMk2x2, VTF-TN1 | Trinnov Altitude 16+4 (2024) | Rotel RB-1590 (L/R) | Appollon NC500 11ch | Martin Logan MP500x2 | Topping DX7s, E50 | AppleTV 4K | Zidoo Z9X | JVC RS2100 | 150” Elite Screen Acoustic Pro UHD
    • Game Room-5.1 Polk LSi25, LSiC, LSiF/X | Marantz SR7009 | AppleTV 4K | Sony UBP-X800 | Xbox One S | Sony PS2, PS3 | Nintendo Wii | Gaming PC | Sony 75" LCD
    • Master Bedroom Music-2.0 Totem Hawk | Marantz PM-10 | Marantz SA-10 | SONY PS-HX500
    • Office-2.1 B&W Formation Duo and Bass
    • Daughter's Gaming Rig-2.0 Ascend Acoustics Sierra LX | Martin Logan Forte
    • Orphans DSW microPRO3000x2 | Rotel RA-1570 | Marantz AV8805A
    • Guest Room 2-2.0 Klipsch RP-600M | SMSL DO100 Pro 2 | Pass ACA v1.6 Monoblocks
    • Guest Room 3-3.0 Martin Logan Motion 40, 50XT | Onkyo TX-SR705 | Apple TV | Samsung 55" TV
    • Guest Room 4-2.0 QAcoustics 3030i | Sansui AU-6900 | Sansui FR-1080 | Fire TV
    • Maintenance: Pro-Ject VC-S Record Cleaning Machine
  • Jstas
    Jstas Posts: 14,990
    That part is not critical to the sound quality. It is a sacrificial part, kinda like a circuit breaker. If it blew like that it means there's another problem with the amp and that part died to save the rest of it.

    Good luck finding what broke or is far enough out of spec to cause that part to self immolate for the greater good.

    When my microPro amp bit the dust and I could not get it straight, I reached out to The Speaker Exchange and they had a replacement that worked.

    https://reconingspeakers.com/

    Might try them.
    Expert Moron Extraordinaire

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