$15 Monitor 7Cs

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Comments

  • Posts: 462
    Looking great!
    <3 my 3.1TLs

    I will fix your shifted magnets for free. :)
  • Posts: 6,176
    I got some grills you can have if needed. Not sure which model 7 they are from. All versions have been in the house over the years.
  • Posts: 126
    lawdogg wrote: »
    Looking great!

    Would not have been possible without you !!

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    The Polk forum is really great and full of wonderful people. I feel like this project was a team effort as I got so much help from other members .

    lawdogg realigned for me both the MW6502 that had shifted magnets. Those came out of some other speakers. The original woofers that came in these cabinets were beyond repair. Big big thanks!!

    Gardenstater - more help and advice than I could describe. Thank you ! You are a true enthusiast and make this a fun hobby

    vr3 - tweeter pads,felt rings and always great advice. Thank you !

    F1nut - veneering suggestions and advice. Thanks a lot. Clear gel is on the way !

    Hopefully I can get the drivers back in the cabinets within the next couple of weeks after I get the last coats of gel applied.


  • Posts: 126
    I got some grills you can have if needed. Not sure which model 7 they are from. All versions have been in the house over the years.

    Wow! I actually do. For $15 I only got 1 ratty grill 😂
    and 5 of the 8 pegs were broken off as well. The parts express pegs are an exact match for those.

    Unfortunately I think my model 7C was only made for about 1 year, maybe, and the grills for mine are probably the hardest of the M7 grills to find.

    I do appreciate the offer though.
  • Posts: 126
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    It took a while but finally got the clear gel applied. I am happy how they came out. They are shiny now.
  • Posts: 126
    So I listened to them for a while. The bass and mids on these are much better than my 7Bs but the tweeter is very annoying. So I decided to do something 😂

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    The SL1000 is 7ohm the peerless is 8ohm 🤷‍♂️
  • Posts: 126
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    Why is this supposed to not work correctly? Im listening to them now and I sort of feel like I'm listening to the ultimate 7s. This sounds really really good.

    The difference between the SL1000 and the peerless is huge.
  • Posts: 25,994
    The tweeter ohm difference is not a big deal.
  • Posts: 126
    The sound is 😃

    This rocks hard. These 7c don't need a sub they got bass for days
  • Posts: 17,467
    The 1000’sSuck..

    Looks great!! Nice Job..
  • Posts: 4,563
    edited February 16
    So how does the soundstage on your early 7C with Peerless compare to the Series II with SL2500, which have the foam ring around the dome, slightly more forward dome, somewhat narrower baffle, different XO,small beveled edge on the baffle, and countersunk mids? Oh and different PR but that doesn't pertain to soundstage/imaging.

    Maybe you have to wait to answer until you get the XO fully modded in the Series II, but how about at this point?
    George / NJ

    Polk 7B main speakers, std. mods+ (1979, orig owner)
    Martin Logan Dynamo sub w/6ft 14awg Power Cord
    Onkyo A-8017 integrated
    Logitech Squeezebox Touch Streamer w/EDO applet
    iFi nano iDSD DAC
    iPurifier3
    iDefender w/ iPower PS
    Custom Steve Wilson 1m UPOCC Interconnect
    iFi Mercury 0.5m OFHC continuous cast copper USB cable
    Custom Ribbon Speaker Cables, 5ft long, 4N Copper, 14awg, ultra low inductance
    Custom Vibration Isolation Speaker Stands and Sub Platform
  • Posts: 126
    edited February 16
    Toolfan66 wrote: »
    The 1000’sSuck..

    Looks great!! Nice Job..

    It was just 4 bolts and I even had a bit trouble with that 😂

    Gardenstater pushed me to try this mod. He basically did all the research for me. As far as I’m concerned he deserves the credit for this awesome sounding mod
  • Posts: 126
    So how does the soundstage on your early 7C with Peerless compare to the Series II with SL2500, which have the foam ring around the dome, slightly more forward dome, somewhat narrower baffle, different XO,small beveled edge on the baffle, and countersunk mids? Oh and different PR but that doesn't pertain to soundstage/imaging.

    Maybe you have to wait to answer until you get the XO fully modded in the Series II, but how about at this point?

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    Those are series 2 crossovers ☝️ I’m still waiting on the 27uf that was back ordered should be here next week. I did listen to them with the new tweeter caps.

    The Series 2 sounds really good. Has an almost
    SDA sound quality with a big sound stage but has no bass. Probably the new 27uf film cap will help a good bit but I serious doubt it’ll have the bass of the 7c
  • Posts: 126
    The sound stage of the 7B and the 7C are very similar. Both very open and spacious.

    Of the 3, I keep going back to the 7c. It just has bass, like you don’t need a subwoofer bass.
  • Posts: 25,994
    No bass would lead my to believe they are not as air tight as they should be.
  • Posts: 126
    edited February 16
    pitdogg2 wrote: »
    No bass would lead my to believe they are not as air tight as they should be.

    Sorry I ment no bass compared to the 7C. They are about the same as the 7B for bass. I already added hurricane nuts and did the leak test. They are as air tight as the other 2. Maybe when I change the 27uf cap it’ll improve but like I said I don’t have high hopes that the series 2 will ever have bass like the 7c. I have a Jantzen 27uf I ordered that should be here next week so I can report back.
  • Posts: 126
    edited February 16
  • Posts: 3,560
    I'm just going to say, threads like this is what makes our community the best! So much knowledge and willingness to share. Truly a wonderful resource!
  • Posts: 126
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    Tweeter pads for the Peerless ☝️
  • Posts: 126
    edited February 17
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    When I mentioned I had a little trouble getting the Peerless bolted down its because the screw holes on the older ones are smaller in diameter. The ones I originally started out experimenting with were dated 1980.

    The ones on the right are the 1982 peerless. They have the same holes as the sl1000. All the older ones I almost think they drill out the holes at Polk. They are all close but not exact. Guess it doesn’t matter if you’re using wood screws but for bolts its not good.
    Post edited by DeRod on

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